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高速公路輪胎爆胎和高速行駛時轉向失靈

緊急電話號碼因國家而異. 此頁面使用 911,這是美國和加拿大的號碼。許多其他國家使用 112、999 或其他號碼。 尋找您所在國家/地區的電話號碼.

當輪胎爆裂或轉向輔助在 100 公里/小時(62 英里/小時)或更快時失效時,人類的生存本能會尖叫著要求您猛踩煞車踏板並將方向盤拉向路肩。在高速公路上行駛時,本能的煞車反應將車輛的質量猛烈地向前拋到破碎的輪胎和裸露的金屬輪圈上,將輪圈挖進瀝青中,並使車輛側向絆倒,導致災難性的側翻事故。

現在就這樣做

  1. 在 9 點鐘和 3 點鐘方向牢牢握住方向盤:立即將雙手鎖定在車輪週邊,以抵抗將車輛拉向爆胎一側的劇烈橫向偏航。
  2. 將腳完全放在煞車踏板上:在高速公路發生井噴的最初幾秒鐘內,切勿猛踩或踩剎車。煞車將重量轉移到前軸上,將漏氣的輪胎壓扁在輪圈下,並立即引發旋轉或側翻。
  3. 保持穩定的油門或輕踩油門 1 到 2 秒:在爆炸聲將重量向後轉移到後軸上後,短暫保持或輕輕增加油門壓力,並利用向前的動力將魚尾車輛直接拉到您的車道上。
  4. 向前看目前車道的中心:將眼睛直視車道下方 200 公尺(650 英尺)處,並使用小型、平穩的反向轉向輸入來保持車輛直線,同時慢慢地將腳抬離油門。
  5. 踩煞車前以低於 50 公里/小時(30 英里/小時)的速度自然滑行:讓空氣動力阻力和滾動阻力減慢車輛在行駛車道上的速度。只有當汽車穩定且行駛速度低於 50 公里/小時(30 英里/小時)時,才施加輕柔、漸進的煞車壓力。
  6. 僅在低於 30 公里/小時(20 英里/小時)的情況下打信號燈並轉向堅固的路肩:啟動四向危險警告燈,檢查後視鏡,僅在減慢步行或慢跑速度後緩慢駛入平坦的路肩,然後通過護欄後面的乘客側車門退出。

切勿在高速公路上行駛到鬆軟的草地或礫石路肩上

等到車速降至 30 公里/小時(20 英里/小時)以下後,再從已鋪好的瀝青路面穿過未鋪砌的礫石路或輪胎爆胎的土路肩。當裸露的鋼製或鋁製輪圈高速撞到鬆軟的泥土或路面邊緣時,它會充當機械錨,扎入土壤中,使 SUV、皮卡車和乘用車立即發生多次側翻事故。


高速機械危機決策樹

按照此逐步車輛動力學流程圖,可以在高速公路速度下從突然的輪胎爆裂、油門踏闆卡住、動力轉向損失或懸吊連桿損壞中安全地恢復。

flowchart TD
    A["高速公路突然發生機械故障(100+ 公里/小時/62+ 英里/小時)"] --> B{"從聲音、車輪拉力和踏板感覺識別故障類型"}
    B -->|"巨響+拍打+強力拉力或魚尾"| C["輪胎爆胎:在 9 點鐘和 3 點鐘方向牢牢握住車輪"]
    C --> D["保持腳離開煞車;應用光穩定油門 1 至 2 秒"]
    D --> E["直視當前車道;釋放氣體以自然滑行"]
    E --> F["低於 50 公里/小時(30 英里/小時)時輕輕制動,低於 30 公里/小時(20 英里/小時)時靠路肩行駛"]
    B -->|"引擎轟鳴+汽車失控加速"| G["油門卡住:立即將變速箱換至空檔 (N)"]
    G --> H["連續用力踩下煞車踏板(不要踩煞車)"]
    H --> I["轉向路肩,完全停止,換至駐車檔,關閉發動機"]
    B -->|"方向盤突然感覺像混凝土一樣沉重"| J["動力轉向損失:雙手用力拉動車輪(機械連桿仍然有效)"]
    J --> K["鬆開油門,開啟危險,在滾動的同時以較寬的漸進弧線轉向路肩"]
    B -->|"方向盤轉動鬆散 + 金屬尖叫聲"| L["橫拉桿或球頭接頭卡扣:如果拖動,請遠離前煞車"]
    L --> M["使用漸進式駐車煞車/引擎煞車在車道或路肩上直線停車"]

高速公路輪胎爆裂的車輛動力學和物理學

當加壓子午線輪胎以 100 至 130 公里/小時(62 至 80 英里/小時)的速度遭受快速放氣或胎面分離時,三種破壞性物理力會在 200 毫秒內撞擊底盤:

  1. 不對稱滾動阻力(橫擺力矩):充氣輪胎以非常低的摩擦力滾動(滾動阻力係數約為 0.01)。輪胎爆裂的瞬間,塌陷的橡膠側壁和柔性鋼帶會折疊在重金屬輪圈下,使單一角落的滾動阻力增加 10 至 20 倍。如果右前輪胎爆裂,那麼巨大的阻力就像拋在汽車右側的錨一樣,產生強大的偏航扭矩,將車頭急劇向右拉向溝渠或鄰近的車道。
  2. 動態角落重量下降和輪緣至瀝青刨削:被吹走的角落立即下落 7.5 至 12.5 公分(3 至 5 英吋),靠近路面,使車輛的側傾軸對角線地朝向損壞的角落傾斜。
  3. 為什麼觸摸煞車踏板會導致致命的翻車:
  4. 在穩態巡航中,乘用車大約 55% 的重量分佈在前軸上,45% 分佈在後軸上。
  5. 當驚慌失措的駕駛員在高速公路上猛踩煞車踏板時,縱向重量轉移會將車輛總質量的 75% 至 80% 向前推到前輪胎上,同時將重量從後輪胎上卸下。
  6. 在前部爆胎期間:猛踩煞車將洩氣的前輪胎完全壓碎在金屬輪圈下方,將金屬輪圈的鋒利邊緣像鑿子一樣壓入瀝青中,並將方向盤從駕駛員手中猛烈地奪走。
  7. 後部爆胎期間:猛踩煞車會減輕後軸的負載,從而破壞剩餘完整後輪胎的橫向抓地力。由於前輪胎具有很大的抓地力,而後軸的橫向抓地力為零,因此車輛後端會以 180 度轉向過度旋轉 的方式猛烈向前擺動,使車輛側面沿著高速公路滑下,此時輪輞會絆倒並使車輛發生滾桶式滾動。

為什麼輕油門1到2秒就能救車

美國國家公路交通安全管理局 (NHTSA)、米其林輪胎安全工程師和警察追擊駕駛學院的碰撞重建研究證實了一條關鍵的、違反直覺的規則:**在發生爆胎穩定汽車後立即保持穩定油門或輕踩油門 1 到 2 秒。 **

  • 防止突然的發動機制動阻力:以 110 公里/小時(70 英里/小時)的速度將腳完全抬離油門踏板會導致發動機立即壓縮制動,從而將重量向前推到損壞的輪胎上,就像踩剎車一樣。
  • 將重量向後轉移並拉直偏航:短暫地輕踩油門 1 到 2 秒,可保持後輪胎上的垂直載荷,並沿車輛中心線提供向前的推力,克服碎輪胎的不對稱阻力,足夠長的時間讓您的大腦處理事件並將雙手鎖定在方向盤上。
  • 一旦汽車沿著車道直線行駛(1 到 2 秒後),平穩地逐漸鬆開油門,讓風阻力減慢汽車的速度。

前輪胎爆裂與後輪胎爆裂:臨床比較

雖然基本的六步驟恢復協議適用於每次爆胎,但前軸和後軸爆胎會透過方向盤和座墊產生截然不同的觸覺回饋。

動態特性 前輪胎爆裂(轉向軸) 後輪胎爆裂(傳動軸/拖曳軸) 雙輪/拖車輪胎爆裂
即時的聽覺和觸覺感受 一聲巨響,然後立即猛烈地拉動方向盤向爆胎的一側;引擎蓋前角明顯下沉。 一聲巨響,然後是座椅和地板上劇烈的鼓聲振動;方向盤感覺很輕,而後端左右搖擺或呈魚尾狀。 貨台下方或拖車後方發出類似大砲的巨大轟鳴聲;拖車開始有節奏地橫向搖擺(蜿蜒)。
主要失控機制 當前輪圈陷入時,突然偏離車道進入迎面駛來的車輛、橋台或鬆軟的路邊溝渠。 高速轉向過度旋轉(180° 交換) 隨後發生側翻,在 SUV、小型貨車和皮卡車中尤其嚴重。 如果駕駛員踩下拖車腳制動器,拖車折刀或拖車後軸擺擺動。
正確的轉向技術 Pull firmly with both hands in the opposite direction of the pull to force the front wheels to point straight down the lane. Look far down the lane and make small, rapid, smooth counter-steering corrections into the direction of the rear slide without over-correcting. Hold the tow vehicle steering wheel dead straight; never yank the wheel to counter trailer sway.
Throttle & braking action Stay off brakes; apply 1 to 2 sec light throttle to keep weight off the crushed front corner; coast down below 50 km/h (30 mph). Stay off brakes; apply 1 to 2 sec light throttle to plant weight on the rear axle; coast down gradually in lane. Ease off gas; pinch the manual trailer brake controller slider gently by hand for 2 sec to pull the trailer straight behind the truck.
Effect of Electronic Stability Control (ESC) ESC automatically pulses individual rear brakes to counter the yaw pull, provided the driver does not yank the wheel erratically. ESC detects the rear slip angle and brakes the outside front wheel to arrest the fishtail spin. Trailer Sway Control (TSC) modulates individual brakes to dampen oscillation.

Special vehicle types: SUVs, commercial trucks, motorcycles, and trailers

1. High-center-of-gravity SUVs, pickup trucks, and 15-passenger vans

Sport utility vehicles, lifted pickup trucks, camper vans, and 15-passenger vans have a high center of mass and a narrower track-width-to-height ratio (Static Stability Factor). When a rear tire blows on a heavily loaded SUV or van at 110 km/h (70 mph), the vehicle has a much lower threshold for untripped and rim-tripped rollovers. If you are driving an SUV or van, never attempt to change lanes during the initial coast-down phase: stay dead-center in your current lane with your hazard lights flashing until your speed falls below 40 km/h (25 mph).

2. Heavy commercial trucks, RVs, and buses (Steer-axle blowouts)

On a Class A motorhome, bus, or commercial semi-truck weighing 10,000 to 36,000 kilograms (22,000 to 80,000 pounds), a front steer-axle tire blowout creates massive pulling torque capable of breaking a driver's thumbs if their hands are wrapped inside the steering wheel spokes. - Keep your thumbs on the outside of the steering wheel rim at 9 and 3 o'clock. - If a front steer tire blows on a heavy RV or truck, step DOWN on the accelerator pedal for 2 to 3 seconds to transfer weight off the collapsed front steer axle and empower the hydraulic power steering pump to overcome the drag of the blown tire, then ease off the throttle slowly while staying completely off the service brakes and engine retarder (Jake brake) until speed drops below 40 km/h (25 mph).

3. Motorcycles (Front vs rear tire blowout on two wheels)

A sudden flat or blowout on a motorcycle requires disciplined upper-body relaxation: - Keep a firm grip on the handlebars without locking your elbows: Let your arms act as shock absorbers to dampen front-end headshake (tank-slapper wobble). - Never touch the front brake lever if the front tire is flat: Applying the front brake on a deflated motorcycle tire folds the rubber bead off the rim and dumps the front wheel onto the asphalt immediately. - Shift your body weight backward toward the rear of the saddle, pull in the clutch or roll off the throttle smoothly so engine braking does not jerk the rear tire, and use gentle, progressive rear brake only (if the front tire blew) or gentle front brake only (if the rear tire blew) once upright and moving slowly in a straight line.


Runaway vehicle: what to do when the accelerator pedal sticks

Unintended acceleration or a runaway throttle occurs when a bunched-up rubber floor mat traps the gas pedal against the floor, a mechanical throttle return spring breaks, ice or debris jams the throttle body, or an electronic drive-by-wire sensor faults. If you need full dedicated coverage of runaway vehicles, review stuck accelerator pedal and runaway vehicle survival。

Execute these five life-saving actions in exact order if your car refuses to stop accelerating:

  1. Shift into Neutral (N) immediately: Push a console automatic shifter one notch forward from D 到 N, pull a column stalk one notch toward N, hold an electronic rotary/push-button selector in N for 1 to 2 seconds, or push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor in a manual transmission vehicle. Shifting into Neutral mechanically disconnects the roaring engine from the drive wheels in less than one second.
  2. Do NOT reach down or look at the floor to free the trapped pedal: Taking your eyes off the highway or unbuckling to reach down under the dashboard at 120 km/h (75 mph) causes instant lane departure crashes.
  3. Press the brake pedal with ONE continuous, heavy, unrelenting push (never pump):
  4. Power brakes in gasoline cars rely on engine intake manifold vacuum to multiply your foot pressure. When a throttle is stuck wide open, the intake manifold has zero vacuum left.
  5. Your brake booster canister holds enough stored vacuum for only one or two presses. If you pump the brake pedal on and off repeatedly, you vent all stored vacuum into the atmosphere, and the pedal becomes rock-hard.
  6. Instead, plant both feet if necessary on the brake pedal and push down with continuous, maximum force until the vehicle comes to a complete stop on the shoulder.
  7. Never turn a mechanical ignition key to OFF 或 LOCK while moving: Turning a physical key fully off while rolling engages the mechanical steering column lock pin, locking your steering wheel frozen so you cannot steer around curves, while simultaneously disabling power steering and airbag sensors.
  8. Emergency push-button engine shutdown (only if Neutral fails): If an electronic shifter fails to enter Neutral, press and hold the START/STOP 連續按住點火按鈕 3 秒(或快速點擊 3 次)。聯邦機動車輛安全標準規定,按住 3 秒鐘即可關閉發動機,同時保持轉向柱解鎖(儘管轉向和煞車將立即需要大量的人力)。

從突然的動力轉向或機械轉向故障中恢復

駕駛員經常將失去動力轉向輔助與完全損壞的轉向連桿混淆。了解發生了哪種故障決定如何安全停車。

高速行駛時轉向與懸吊故障的比較

失效模式 常見機械原因 How the Steering Wheel Feels How the Vehicle Behaves Immediate Emergency Recovery Action
Hydraulic Power Steering Assist Loss Broken serpentine drive belt, ruptured high-pressure fluid hose, or failed pump. Steering wheel suddenly requires 5 to 10 times more muscle force to turn, especially below 30 km/h (20 mph); red battery/temp warning lights may illuminate. Car continues driving straight normally; mechanical steering shaft is 100% intact. Grip wheel with both hands, pull down hard with one arm while pushing up with the other, ease off gas, and steer in a wide, gradual arc onto the shoulder while tires are still rolling. Shut engine off immediately once parked (water pump belt is likely gone).
Electric Power Steering (EPS) Fault Blown high-amp EPS fuse, alternator voltage drop, torque sensor fault, or overheated EPS motor. Steering chime sounds (Steering Assist Reduced) and wheel becomes very heavy instantly. Car tracks straight; mechanical pinion gear remains engaged to the rack. Pull firmly with both hands, keep the car rolling at 15 to 25 km/h (10 to 15 mph) while turning onto the shoulder so tires do not bind statically.
Catastrophic Tie-Rod End or Ball-Joint Fracture Severe rust, neglected worn ball joint popping out of socket, or hitting a deep pothole at speed. Steering wheel spins loosely with abnormal play, or jerks violently to one side accompanied by loud metallic grinding and tire smoke. One front wheel flops outward at an extreme angle (toe-out), acting as a heavy drag brake that pulls the car off course. Hold the remaining steerable wheel as straight as possible, avoid slamming the front foot brake (which locks the collapsed wheel), and use progressive emergency braking techniques (handbrake / electronic parking brake + downshifting) to stop rapidly before leaving the roadway.
Electronic Steer-by-Wire Fault Dual-redundant actuator or power bus fault in modern steer-by-wire vehicles. Flashing red steering wheel warning icon and audible alarm. Backup redundant motor channel or differential braking engages automatically in limited-speed limp mode. Activate hazard lights immediately, reduce speed smoothly, and exit the highway at the very first safe turnout.

Never drive further if your serpentine belt snapped

When hydraulic power steering fails suddenly alongside a red Battery / Alternator warning light on your dashboard, the rubber serpentine belt on the front of your engine has snapped or thrown off a pulley. On most engines, that single belt also drives the coolant water pump. Continuing to drive even 3 to 5 kilometers (2 to 3 miles) without a water pump will boil the engine coolant, overheat the cylinder head past 130 degrees Celsius (265 degrees Fahrenheit), and blow the head gasket. Pull over at the nearest safe spot and shut the engine off.


Limping off the highway and surviving roadside traffic

More than 12 percent of all fatal interstate highway crashes involve secondary collisions where an oncoming distracted, drowsy, or impaired driver drifts onto the shoulder and strikes a stopped vehicle or a pedestrian standing beside a flat tire. Once you have brought your vehicle down from highway speed after a blowout, your immediate priority shifts from vehicle control to roadside survival.

The "Sacrifice the Wheel Rim" rule

Never stop in a live highway travel lane, on a narrow bridge deck with no shoulder, inside a blind highway curve, or in the center median gore point just to avoid bending a metal wheel rim. - If the shoulder is less than 2.5 meters (8 feet) wide or puts your door within arm's reach of 110 km/h (70 mph) semi-trucks, keep your hazard lights flashing and drive slowly at 15 to 25 km/h (10 to 15 mph) straight down the breakdown lane on the shredded tire or bare metal rim for several hundred meters until you reach an exit ramp, wide paved turnout, or flat grass clearing. - 例外(輪井火災風險):一跛一跛地前進時請注意後視鏡。如果碎橡膠撞擊內擋泥板襯裡或鎂/鋁輪圈產生的火花點燃輪艙內的煙霧或火焰,立即停車,設置駐車製動器,並疏散距離車輛上風 30 公尺(100 英尺)處的所有乘客。

逐步路邊定位和疏散

  1. 盡可能將車停在路肩右側(或外側邊緣):在車輛和白霧線之間留出最大緩衝距離。
  2. 將前輪遠離即時交通:將方向盤稍微轉向護欄或溝渠,這樣,如果分心的駕駛員夾住您的汽車後部,您的車輛就會偏離高速公路車道,而不是被推回到交通中。
  3. 僅從乘客側(非交通側)門退出:切勿打開駕駛側車門進入有效的高速公路車道。如有必要,請爬過中控台,讓所有乘客從草肩一側退出。
  4. 將所有人移到鋼護欄後面或沿路堤向上 15 至 30 公尺(50 至 100 英尺):不要坐在狹窄路肩上的故障車內,也不要直接站在停放車輛的後面或前面。 走在護欄後面並稍微向上游移動(在汽車後面,面向迎面駛來的車輛)**,這樣,如果您停放的汽車被撞到,殘骸就不會被扔到您的家人身上。
  5. 以交錯的間隔放置反光警告三角形(如果從屏障後面安全的話):
  6. 將第一個反光三角形 3 公尺(10 英尺) 放置在車輛的交通側角落後方。
  7. 將第二個三角形放置在車輛後方 30 公尺(100 英尺) 的路肩中間。
  8. 將第三個三角形放置在車輛後面60 到 90 公尺(200 到 300 英尺)**(特別是在山頂​​或彎道之前)。如果燃油洩漏或高速公路上有乾燥的灌木叢,切勿使用燃燒彈。
  9. 切勿在高速公路上自行更換交通側輪胎:如果爆胎位於面向高速公路車道的一側,請檢查 更換漏氣的輪胎和輪胎壓力 和 汽車發生故障時該怎麼辦:不要跪在白霧線上,背對 110 公里/小時的車流。致電路邊援助或您當地的 緊急號碼 (美國和加拿大撥打 911,歐盟地區撥打 112,英國撥打 999,或州高速公路巡邏援助號碼,例如 *55 或 #77)因此,配備高能見度箭頭板和衝擊衰減器的高速公路安全巡邏車可以封鎖車道。

預防高速公路爆胎:壓力、熱和輪胎壽命

根據 NHTSA 輪胎故障調查,超過 75% 的高速輪胎爆胎發生之前都是緩慢的充氣不足,而不是突然刺破。

  • 充氣不足熱故障的物理原理:輪胎內的氣壓承載著車輛 95% 的重量,而不是橡膠胎側本身。當輪胎充氣不足 **40 至 55 千帕(6 至 8 PSI)**時,每次車輪接觸路面時,側壁都會急劇膨脹和彎曲(在高速公路速度下每分鐘約 800 次)。這種機械滯後彎曲產生超過 120 攝氏度(250 華氏度) 的強烈內部熱量,熔化鋼帶和橡膠胎面之間的硫化粘結劑,直到胎面爆炸性剝落。
  • 每月對照駕駛員門框標誌檢查冷胎壓力:切勿充氣至橡膠輪胎側壁上模製的「最大壓力」;充氣至駕駛員車門框內黃白相間的輪胎和裝載資訊標籤上印有的準確冷 kPa / PSI 規格。
  • 無論剩餘胎面深度如何,均應更換使用時間超過 6 至 10 年的輪胎:橡膠會隨著時間的推移而氧化和乾燥(熱氧化降解),即使是低里程車輛、房車拖車和存放在皮卡車下方的備胎也是如此。讀取刻在外側壁字母後面的 4 位 DOT 輪胎識別號 (TIN) DOT:最後四位數字表示製造週和年份(例如, 3421 表示輪胎是在 2021 年第 34 週製造的)。汽車製造商和安全機構建議更換任何達到6年有效使用年限的輪胎,並且切勿使用任何自DOT生產日期起**10年以上的輪胎行駛。

今天就練習換入空檔並測試您的備胎壓力

下次您將車停在車道上時,練習將車輛的檔位選擇器從「駕駛」(D) 變為中性 (N)無需低頭,這樣您的手就會建立自動肌肉記憶。每月用數位儀表檢查您的四個公路輪胎時,也要檢查後備箱中的備胎(緊湊型「甜甜圈」備胎通常需要415 kPa / 60 PSI,並且經常在一年內失去壓力,導致發生爆胎時駕駛者只能使用扁平備胎)。


常見問題

Why should I stay off the brake pedal and press the gas lightly when a tire blows out on the highway?

When a tire bursts at highway speed, the collapsed rubber creates massive drag on that single corner of the car, pulling the vehicle sideways. If you slam on the brakes, the vehicle's weight pitches violently forward onto the shredded front tire (causing the metal rim to dig into the asphalt and flip the car) or unloads the rear axle (causing a 180-degree spinout). Holding steady throttle or pressing the accelerator lightly for 1 to 2 seconds keeps weight planted on the rear axle and uses forward momentum to pull the swerving vehicle straight until you can coast down safely.

At what speed is it safe to apply the brakes and pull onto the shoulder after a blowout?

Let the vehicle coast down naturally in your current travel lane using wind drag and rolling resistance until your speed drops below 50 km/h (30 mph) before applying gentle, progressive pressure to the brake pedal. Wait until the vehicle has slowed below 30 km/h (20 mph) before steering off the paved roadway onto a gravel or grass shoulder so the exposed wheel rim does not catch in soft soil and roll the car.

Is it better to stop immediately in a narrow breakdown lane or keep driving slowly on a flat tire?

Always prioritize human life over a 200-dollar metal wheel rim. If a blowout happens on a bridge, in a blind curve, or along a narrow shoulder where high-speed trucks pass within inches of your doors, turn on your hazard lights and drive slowly at 15 to 25 km/h (10 to 15 mph) on the shredded tire or bare rim for a few hundred meters until you reach a wide exit ramp or flat pullout area. Only stop immediately if you see smoke or flames coming from the wheel well.

Can I still steer my car if the power steering belt or electric motor fails completely while driving?

Yes. On virtually all passenger cars and trucks, a solid steel steering shaft and rack-and-pinion gear still mechanically connect your steering wheel to the front wheels when hydraulic or electric power steering assist fails. The wheel will suddenly feel 5 to 10 times heavier to turn, so grip the wheel firmly with both hands, use your upper body strength to pull it, and steer onto the shoulder in a wide, gradual arc while the tires are still rolling at 15 to 30 km/h (10 to 20 mph).

Why must I never pump the brake pedal when my gas pedal is stuck wide open?

Power brake boosters in gasoline vehicles use engine intake vacuum to multiply the force of your foot on the brake pedal. When an accelerator is stuck wide open, the engine throttle plate is open and produces almost zero vacuum. Pumping the brake pedal on and off vents your booster's remaining reserve vacuum after just two presses, leaving the brake pedal rock-hard. Instead, shift immediately into Neutral (`N`) and press the brake pedal down with one continuous, unrelenting push until the car stops.

How can I tell if my tires are too old and at risk of a sudden tread separation blowout?

Look on the outer sidewall of each tire for the letters DOT followed by a series of letters and numbers ending in a 4-digit oval stamp. Those final four digits tell you the week and year the tire was manufactured (for example, 1819 means the 18th week of 2019). Even if the tread looks deep, internal rubber compounds dry out and delaminate with age; safety experts recommend replacing tires after 6 years of road use and never driving on any tire more than 10 years past its manufacture date.


來源已檢查

  • 國家公路交通安全管理局 (NHTSA)(美國):輪胎安全:一切皆有保障、輪胎壓力監測系統 (TPMS) 和高速井噴恢復指南以及FMVSS 第 102 / 114 號緊急空擋和點火超越標準。
  • 英國交通部 (DfT) 和國家公路(英國):官方公路法規(規則 275 至 287:故障、高速公路爆胎和緊急區域)。
  • 加拿大交通部(加拿大):輪胎維護、年齡識別和高速爆胎控制指南。
  • 國家安全委員會 (NSC) 和美國汽車協會 (AAA) 交通安全基金會(美國):緊急車輛處理:輪胎故障、油門失控和路邊故障生存。
  • 德國道路安全委員會 (Deutscher Verkehrssicherheitsrat / DVR) 和 ADAC(德國):高速高速公路輪胎失效動力學(後軸與前軸穩定性測試)。

相關指南