Hilweşîna Dîwarê Bergiran, Hilweşîna Tengava Yard, û Şuştina Driveway¶

A residential retaining wall that begins leaning outward, bulging at the center, or opening crescent-shaped tension cracks in the lawn behind it is an active geotechnical emergency holding back tens or hundreds of metric tons of saturated earth. One cubic meter of dry soil weighs roughly 1,400 to 1,600 kilograms (2,400 to 2,700 pounds per cubic yard), and when heavy rain, rapid spring snowmelt, or a leaking underground irrigation pipe saturates that soil, the weight climbs past 2,000 kilograms per cubic meter (3,400 pounds per cubic yard) while trapped pore water adds immense horizontal hydrostatic pressure pushing against the back of the wall. Even a modest 1.5-meter-tall (5-foot) backyard masonry or timber retaining wall stretching 10 meters (33 feet) along a driveway is fighting a lateral earth and water load exceeding 25,000 kilograms (55,000 pounds).

Homeowners routinely misjudge how fast a compromised retaining wall, hillside yard slump, or washed-out driveway culvert transitions from slow creep to instantaneous collapse. Walking along the base of a leaning stone or concrete block wall to push on it, parking a vehicle on the upper terrace near the edge of a bulging wall, or driving across a driveway culvert whose underlying gravel has been scoured away by flash runoff has killed or trapped thousands of residents worldwide. Taking disciplined action in the first ten minutes, establishing a strict 1.5-times-wall-height collapse exclusion zone, diverting surface water away from the upper slope tension cracks, removing vehicle surcharge weight from the top terrace, and checking for sheared underground gas or water utilities, protects your family and house foundation from a sudden earth slide.

Vê niha bikin¶

1. Clear everyone out of the "1.5x Height" collapse zone below the wall and off the top edge above it. Measure or estimate the vertical height of the retaining wall or steep slope (\(H\)). Barricade a strict safety perimeter extending at least 1.5 times the wall height (\(1.5 \times H\)) outward from the bottom toe of the wall AND 1.5 times the wall height back from the top crest of the wall. For a 2-meter-tall (6.5-foot) wall, keep all people, children, and pets at least 3 meters (10 feet) away from both the bottom face and the top terrace edge.
2. Move vehicles, trailers, and heavy equipment off the upper terrace or undermined driveway immediately (only if safe). A parked passenger car or pickup truck sitting on the soil wedge behind a retaining wall adds 1,800 to 3,500 kilograms (4,000 to 7,700 pounds) of live surcharge load that pushes directly outward against the failing wall face. If the pavement is not actively cracking or sinking beneath your feet, move cars off the upper terrace and out from below the wall immediately. Never drive across a driveway bridge or culvert pipe if water is overtopping the pavement or if the asphalt edges are caving inward.
3. Shut off irrigation systems, swimming pool backwash lines, and leaking yard pipes. Walk to your irrigation controller and turn all lawn sprinklers and drip zones OFF. If a swimming pool, hot tub, or ornamental pond sits on the slope above the retaining wall or hillside slump, check whether a leaking pool return pipe or filter backwash hose is pumping thousands of liters of water into the hillside soil.
4. Divert roof downspouts and surface runoff away from the top of the wall and out of ground cracks. The fastest way to stop a creeping retaining wall or yard slump from collapsing during a rainstorm is to stop additional surface water from pouring into the soil wedge behind the wall. Attach 3- to 6-meter (10- to 20-foot) flexible corrugated plastic extensions to any roof gutter downspouts discharging near the top of the slope so roof water drains far away from the hillside.
5. Cover open crescent-shaped ground cracks at the top of the slope with waterproof plastic tarps. Look at the lawn, soil, or pavement 0.5 to 3 meters (1.5 to 10 feet) behind the top of the bulging wall or slumping hillside. If you see curved, crescent-shaped cracks opening in the dirt or asphalt (headscarp tension cracks), lay heavy 6-mil polyethylene plastic sheeting or waterproof tarps flat over the cracked ground and anchor the uphill edge with sandbags or bricks so rainwater slides harmlessly over the cracks instead of pouring straight down into the slip plane like a hydraulic jack.
6. Inspect your house foundation and smell for natural gas if the slope sits near your home. If the failing retaining wall or yard slump is within 6 meters (20 feet) of your house, check your basement walls, garage slab, and exterior brickwork for new diagonal stair-step cracks, sticking doors, or separated porch steps following our zerara avahî û rêberê hilweşînê. If you smell rotten-egg mercaptan odor or hear hissing soil near a slope movement, evacuate immediately and follow our gas leak emergency guide.

Retaining wall and slope emergency triage flowchart¶

Use this geotechnical triage decision tree to evaluate the severity of a retaining wall bulge, hillside yard slump, or driveway culvert washout and choose the safest immediate stabilization response.

flowchart TD
    Start["Retaining Wall Bulge, Hillside Yard Slump,<br/>or Driveway Culvert Washout Detected"] --> Zone["1. Establish 1.5x Wall/Slope Height Exclusion Zone<br/>Above and Below Failure Area"]
    Zone --> Surcharge["2. Remove Parked Vehicles from Top Terrace<br/>and Clear People/Cars Below Wall"]
    Surcharge --> HazardType{"3. Which geotechnical emergency is occurring?"}

    HazardType -->|"A. Retaining wall leaning >2 to 5 degrees,<br/>belly bulge, or dry weep holes during rain"| WallBranch{"Is wall movement active/cracking<br/>or threatening a house?"}
    HazardType -->|"B. Crescent-shaped tension crack in yard<br/>and tilted trees/fences on hillside"| SlumpBranch{"Is muddy water seeping out<br/>at the bottom toe of the slope?"}
    HazardType -->|"C. Driveway culvert pipe plugged,<br/>water overtopping road, or asphalt undermined"| CulvertBranch["Barricade Driveway Immediately:<br/>Do NOT drive across undermined asphalt<br/>or enter submerged culvert inlet"]

    WallBranch -->|"Active cracking, >5 cm (2 in) tilt,<br/>or supporting house foundation"| EvacWall["Imminent Wall Collapse:<br/>Stay out of drop zone; call geotechnical/structural engineer;<br/>notify city building dept if near street/neighbor"]
    WallBranch -->|"Slow creep, plugged weep holes,<br/>no active falling blocks"| DrainWall["Relieve Hydrostatic Pressure Safely:<br/>Divert roof downspouts, tarp soil behind wall,<br/>clear plugged weep holes from the side with long rod"]

    SlumpBranch -->|"Yes: Toe bulging and muddy springs,<br/>or loud root snapping sounds"| ActiveSlide["Imminent Landslide / Debris Flow:<br/>Evacuate downhill structures immediately;<br/>call 911 / 112 / 999 and check utilities"]
    SlumpBranch -->|"No: Dry tension crack at crest"| TarpSlump["Tarp Headscarp Tension Cracks:<br/>Lap waterproof 6-mil plastic over cracks;<br/>NEVER dump fill dirt onto top of slump"]

    CulvertBranch --> CulvertFix["Wait for Water to Recede:<br/>Clear upstream trash rack only from high dry bank;<br/>inspect pipe bedding scour before driving"]

Geotechnical mechanics: why retaining walls and yard slopes fail¶

A retaining wall is not a decorative fence; it is a gravity dam engineered to resist the downward and outward wedge of soil behind it (active earth pressure). Nearly 90 percent of all residential retaining wall collapses and backyard slope failures are triggered by water, not by the weight of the dry dirt alone.

The 4 structural failure modes of a retaining wall¶

Geotechnical engineers evaluate a distressed retaining wall by identifying which of four mechanical failure modes is underway:

1. Overturning (Rotational tilt around the front toe):
2. Lateral pressure from saturated clay soil or frost heave high on the back of the wall pushes the top of the wall outward, causing the entire wall to lean forward at an angle while pivoting around its bottom front edge (the toe).
3. Critical tipping point: Most segmental concrete block and timber walls are built with a purposeful backward lean into the hill (batter) of 2 to 7 degrees. Once a vertical wall tilts forward past vertical, its center of gravity shifts outside the middle third of its base footing, and overturning accelerates rapidly.
4. Sliding (Horizontal shear at the base):
5. The wall stays relatively vertical, but the entire bottom course of blocks, timbers, or poured concrete footing slides forward across the wet clay soil beneath it because the soil under the base has turned slick with water and lost frictional grip.
6. You will see a gap opening behind the wall and a ridge of sod or gravel bunched up in front of the bottom course.
7. Internal Shear / Belly Bulging (Mid-height blowout):
8. Common in dry-stacked stone walls, unreinforced concrete cinder-block (CMU) walls, interlocking landscaping blocks lacking geogrid reinforcement fabric, and rotting railroad-tie timber walls.
9. The top and bottom courses stay roughly in place, but the middle third of the wall bows outward like a pregnant belly, mortar joints crack horizontally, wood timbers splinter, or individual stones begin popping out of the face. A mid-height belly bulge is the most dangerous failure mode because the wall explodes outward without gradual tipping.
10. Deep-Seated Global Slope Failure (Rotational slump beneath the wall):
11. Sometimes the retaining wall itself is built solidly, but the entire hillside underneath and behind the wall shears along a deep curved spoon-shaped slip plane 2 to 6 meters (6.5 to 20 feet) underground.
12. Clues include a curved crescent crack (headscarp) opening in the yard far behind the wall, combined with the ground in front of the bottom of the wall heaving upward as the deep soil cylinder rotates.

Why clogged weep holes turn rain into a hydraulic ram¶

Behind every properly built concrete, brick, stone, or timber retaining wall sits a column of crushed drainage stone and a perforated drain pipe (French drain / footing drain), along with row of small holes or vertical slots spaced every 1.2 to 2.4 meters (4 to 8 feet) along the bottom front face of the wall called weep holes.

• Dema ku çalên girî û kaniyên xîzê bi rêkûpêk bixebitin, ava baranê ya ku di nav axa pişt dîwar de diherike tavilê di nav kunên şînê re ber bi hewşa pêşiyê ve diçe, ji ber vê yekê av qet li pişt dîwêr çê nabe.
• Dema ku kunên giriyê bi heriyê, kokên daran, qumaşê parzûna jeoteksîlê ya ku bi axên avî, mêş an hêlînên mişkê tê dagirtin, an jî dema ku xwediyê malê bi xeletî kunên giriyê ji ber xuyabûna xwe bi hawanan digirt, ** di dema baranê de depoyek avê ya veşartî li pişt dîwêr tijî dibe**.
• Fizîka zexta hîdrostatîk: Av li her alî de bi fişarek bi qasî \(\gamma_w \car h\) (bi qasî 9,8 kilopascal per metre kûrahî, an 62,4 lîre li ser lingê çargoşe ji bo her lingê kûrahiya avê 62,4 lîre li ser pişta dîwarek ber bi her alî de difûre). Dîwarek pêgirtî ku 1,8 metre (6 ling) ava asêmayî li pişt xwe digire ** ji du qat û sê qat zêdetir hêza lêdana horizontî ** ya axê hişk dike, di heman demê de heman av keriyên gil rûn dike û hêza birrîna hundurê axê berbi heriyê kêm dike.

Tabloya berhevdana teşhîs: nirxandina giraniya têkçûna dîwar, şil, û rê¶

Vê matrixê vekolîna zeviyê ji deverek ewleh a li derveyî devera hilweşînê bikar bînin da ku hûn diyar bikin ka hûn li tevgera demsalî ya piçûk an li têkçûnek felaketek nêzîk digerin.

Stabilîzasyona acîl gav-bi-gav ji bo têkçûnek dîwarê ragirtinê an jî hilweşîna hewşê¶

Dema ku dîwarê vegirtinê biqelişe an jî çîmenek li kêleka çiyê bi şikleke zivirî vebe, hûn nikarin dîwêr bi şûn de bixin cihê xwe, û divê hûn çu carî li ber wî nesekinin. Lêbelê, hûn dikarin bi ewlehî sê tedbîrên stabilîzasyonê yên bibandor ji derveyî devera xeternak pêk bînin ku rê li ber avê dihêlin ku têkçûn berbi hilweşîna tevde ve bibe.

Gav 1: Çavdêriya tevgera "Tell-Tale" saz bikin (Ji ber vê yekê hûn dizanin ka ew niha dimeşe)¶

Di dema bahozeke domdar de, çavê mirov bi hêsanî nikare bibêje ka di saeta paşîn de şikestinek dîwêr an şilbûna çolê 6 milîmetre (¼ înç) çûye an bi mehan sekinî ye. Du pîvanên mekanîkî yên hêsan ji cîhek ewledar saz bikin:

1. Gaûjêra Du-Stake Lawn Slump Gauge (Ji bo çiya û çiqên serê-dîwar):
2. Li ser zemîna îstîqrar, jor a neşikestî li pişt şika tansiyonê rawestin (tu carî gav neavêjin bloka dakêşanê ya di navbera şikestin û keviya dîwar de).
3. Yek stûnek darîn bixin nav erda bi îstîqrar a jor a 60 santîmetre (2 ling) li pişt şikestê, û xwe bigihînin hev da ku stûnek duyemîn bixin nav bloka axê ya diherike ku tenê ber bi jêrzemînê ve.
4. Stretch a tight string or measuring tape between the two stakes, mark the exact distance with a permanent marker (for example, 100.0 centimeters), and check it with a flashlight every 30 to 60 minutes from the safe uphill side. If the distance between the stakes is growing by 6 millimeters (¼ inch) or more per hour during rain, the slope is in active failure and collapse is imminent.
5. The Tape-Bridge or Glass-Slide Crack Monitor (For concrete/masonry wall ends):
6. From the safe side end of a concrete wall (never standing in front of the bulging center), place two dabs of fast-setting epoxy or exterior duct tape across a vertical crack and draw a straight vertical line across the tape with a ruler and marker. Any horizontal separation or vertical shearing splits the line visibly.

Step 2: Waterproof and armor the upper tension cracks (The Tarp Shingle Technique)¶

When a retaining wall leans forward or a hillside slumps slightly, a deep vertical crack opens in the earth behind it. If rainwater or snowmelt runs off your yard and pours down into that open crack, the crack fills with water like a narrow vertical standpipe, multiplying the outward hydraulic force on the wall by 300 to 500 percent.

1. Working strictly from the stable uphill side (staying at least 1.5 meters / 5 feet back from the edge of the wall), unroll heavy 6-mil (0.15-millimeter) polyethylene plastic sheeting or waterproof tarps over the entire cracked zone and extending at least 2 meters (6.5 feet) uphill past the highest crack.
2. Shingle the overlaps downhill: If using multiple tarps, always lap the upper tarp over the top of the lower tarp (like roof shingles) so water runs smoothly across the seam without leaking underneath.
3. Cut a shallow 10-centimeter (4-inch) V-trench along the uphill edge of the tarp, tuck the top edge of the plastic into the trench, and line it with sandbags or soil so surface sheet water cannot sneak under the uphill edge of the plastic.
4. Direct the downhill edge of the tarp sideways toward a stable grassy swale or storm drain away from the compromised wall section.

Step 3: Clear plugged weep holes from the side using a long rod¶

If a retaining wall is stable enough that no blocks are falling and no active cracking is occurring, but you notice that its bottom weep holes are dry or plugged with mud and wasp nests while the soil behind the wall is waterlogged:

1. Stand outside the 1.5x Height collapse zone to the side of the wall or reach diagonally with a long 2.4- to 3-meter (8- to 10-foot) piece of rigid PVC pipe, steel rebar, or bamboo pole.
2. Poke the rod gently into the mouth of each bottom weep hole to break through mud crusts, insect mud dauber plugs, or root mats, or direct a gentle stream from a garden hose nozzle taped to a long pole into the weep hole for 5 seconds to flush out silt.
3. If dark muddy water begins gushing out of the cleared weep hole, step back and let the trapped water table drain down naturally. (Note: If clearing a weep hole washes out large quantities of clean backfill sand or gravel continuously, a filter cloth behind the wall has torn, creating an underground cave; stop probing and call an engineer.)

Driveway washouts, undermined pavement, and plugged culvert emergencies¶

Rural, suburban, and hillside homes frequently cross a drainage ditch, seasonal creek, or ravine via a corrugated metal, HDPE plastic, or concrete culvert pipe buried underneath the driveway. During intense rainstorms or flash floods (see our flash floods guide û landslides guide), driveway culverts fail in three deadly ways:

1. The Hidden Asphalt Bridge Trap (Undermined pavement)¶

Asphalt and concrete driveways are rigid crust slabs 5 to 10 centimeters (2 to 4 inches) thick that rely entirely on the compacted crushed stone base underneath them to support the 2,000-kilogram (4,400-pound) weight of an automobile.

• How piping and scour hollow out a driveway: When tree branches and leaves plug the uphill entrance of a driveway culvert pipe, water backs up into a deep pond on the uphill side of the driveway. Forced by hydraulic pressure, water begins seeping around the outside of the metal or plastic culvert pipe through the gravel bedding (hydraulic piping). Within 30 minutes, the rushing water washes away all the gravel and dirt underneath the driveway while leaving the top 5-centimeter (2-inch) shell of black asphalt hanging in mid-air like an unsupported eggshell bridge.
• Why you must never drive or walk across it: From the driver's seat, the blacktop driveway looks completely flat and intact (or covered by only 2 centimeters of running water). The instant a car's front tires roll onto the unsupported asphalt crust, the pavement punches through into a 1.5-meter-deep (5-foot) washed-out chasm, flipping the vehicle nose-first into rushing floodwater.
• Immediate action:
• Barricade both ends of the driveway immediately using orange cones, trash cans, bright flagging tape, or parked vehicles parked well back on solid ground so delivery trucks, family members, or emergency vehicles cannot accidentally drive onto the undermined span.
• Probe the edges of the pavement from safe, dry ground using a long wooden pole or shovel handle to check whether the gravel shoulder underneath the asphalt edge has washed away.

2. Vortex Suction Culvert Inlet (Qet di dema bahozê de kolberek di bin avê de paqij neke)¶

When water backs up 1 to 2 meters (3 to 6.5 feet) deep behind a plugged driveway culvert pipe, homeowners are often tempted to wade into the ditch with a rake to pull branches off the submerged pipe opening.

Protecting utilities and foundations when a yard slope or wall shifts¶

Soil movement does not just move dirt and stone; a lateral shift of just 5 centimeters (2 inches) in a yard slope or driveway edge will shear rigid underground pipes and conduits passing through the slide zone.

1. Buried natural gas service lines and propane lines:
2. Check where your street gas main enters your property or where the buried copper/polyethylene line from your backyard propane tank runs to your house.
3. If the ground along that path has cracked, slumped, or bulged behind a failing retaining wall, shut off the propane tank service valve (or evacuate and call the gas utility emergency number if you smell gas or see soil pulling away from the house gas meter riser).
4. Municipal water service lines and private septic systems:
5. A shifting slope frequently snaps underground PVC or copper water service lines between the street meter and the house, pumping pressurized water straight into the slide plane and accelerating a catastrophic landslide. Look at the small spinning leak-indicator triangle on your street water meter while all indoor taps are off; if it is spinning, shut off the street curb stop valve immediately.
6. If your septic tank or leach drainfield sits on a slumping slope, stop all indoor water use immediately so sewage effluent does not lubricate the hillside (see our septic system failure guide).
7. Downhill neighbor liability and municipal right-of-way notification:
8. If your failing retaining wall or hillside slump borders a public sidewalk, city street, alley, or a downhill neighbor's house, driveway, or bedroom wall, notify your downhill neighbor in person or by phone immediately so they can move family members out of rooms facing the wall and move their parked cars.
9. Call your municipal building department or non-emergency fire/public works dispatch to request a city building inspector or municipal engineer assessment if the wall threatens a public right-of-way or adjacent structure.

Permanent engineering repairs: what works and why DIY "band-aids" fail¶

Once the emergency has stabilized and the soil dries, a retaining wall that has tilted past vertical, bulged in the middle, or lost its base friction cannot be fixed by patching cracks with mortar or propping angled timbers against the face.

• Why patching cracks in a concrete retaining wall makes collapse worse: Filling open cracks in a concrete or block retaining wall with hydraulic cement seals the only remaining escape vents where trapped water was bleeding out, increasing hydrostatic pressure behind the wall.
• Approved geotechnical repair methods (Designed by a licensed Professional Engineer [PE] for walls over 1 to 1.2 meters / 3 to 4 feet tall):
• Complete tear-down and rebuild with geogrid soil reinforcement and drainage: Excavating the failed wall, installing a perforated PVC footing drain encased in washed angular #57 crushed stone wrapped in non-woven geotextile filter fabric (to stop clay silt from fouling the gravel), and embedding horizontal layers of high-strength polymer geogrid mesh extending 1.5 to 3 meters (5 to 10 feet) back into compacted gravel backfill so the entire soil mass acts as a single monolithic gravity block.
• Helical tieback anchors or soil nails: For poured concrete or heavy timber walls that are structurally intact but beginning to lean, specialized foundation contractors drill long steel helical tieback rods through the face of the wall at a downward angle 4 to 9 meters (13 to 30 feet) back into stable bedrock or undisturbed earth beyond the slip plane, securing the face with heavy steel bearing plates.
• Gabion basket or riprap toe buttressing: For slumping hillside banks without a formal wall, excavating the unstable toe and stacking heavy galvanized wire cages filled with 10- to 20-centimeter (4- to 8-inch) angular quarry rock (gabion baskets) that allow groundwater to flow freely out of the hill while anchoring the toe with massive dead weight.

Pirsên pir caran têne pirsîn¶

How far away should I stay from a leaning or bulging retaining wall?¶

Geotechnical engineers and rescue agencies enforce a minimum collapse exclusion zone equal to 1.5 times the vertical height of the retaining wall, measured both outward from the bottom front toe of the wall and backward from the top crest of the wall. For example, if a stone or concrete block wall is 2 meters (6.5 feet) tall, you must keep all people, pets, and parked cars at least 3 meters (10 feet) away from the front of the wall and 3 meters (10 feet) back from the top edge, because a failing wall and the wedge of saturated earth behind it slide outward across that entire footprint in less than two seconds.

Can I brace a leaning masonry or timber retaining wall with wooden 2x4 posts or jacks?¶

No, never attempt to prop up a leaning stone, concrete block, or railroad-tie retaining wall from the front using wooden lumber braces or residential screw jacks. Even a small 1.2-meter-tall (4-foot) section of saturated hillside soil exerts 5,000 to 15,000 kilograms (11,000 to 33,000 pounds) of lateral force that will snap dimensional wooden two-by-fours like toothpicks and launch splintered wood and concrete blocks onto anyone standing near the wall; the only safe emergency actions are clearing the collapse zone, removing vehicles from the upper terrace, and diverting surface water away from the soil behind the wall.

Why did my retaining wall suddenly bulge or collapse during a rainstorm after standing fine for 15 years?¶

Retaining walls almost always fail suddenly after years of stability because the buried gravel drainage column and bottom weep holes behind the wall gradually clog over a decade with fine clay silt, tree roots, and decaying organic matter. Once the hidden drainage path seals shut, the next heavy rainstorm or spring snowmelt fills the soil behind the wall with trapped groundwater, which simultaneously doubles the weight of the soil, adds massive horizontal hydrostatic water pressure against the back of the wall, and turns the soil beneath the bottom footing into slick mud that loses frictional grip.

Does homeowners insurance cover a collapsed retaining wall or driveway washout?¶

Standard homeowners insurance policies almost universally exclude damage caused by earth movement, landslides, soil subsidence, hydrostatic underground water pressure, and surface flood runoff, meaning a retaining wall that collapses from rain-saturated soil or a driveway culvert washed out by a storm is rarely covered unless the wall was struck by a fallen tree or vehicle, or you carry a separate flood or earth-movement endorsement. However, if a sudden burst pressurized domestic plumbing pipe inside your yard caused the washout, some policies cover the resulting access repairs; always photograph the site thoroughly and check your policy declarations before beginning excavation.

Çavkaniyan kontrol kirin¶

• United States Geological Survey (USGS): The Landslide Handbook: A Guide to Understanding Landslides (rotational slumps, headscarp tension crack tarping, surface water diversion, and warning signs of imminent slope failure).
• Federal Highway Administration (FHWA, United States Department of Transportation): Design and Construction of Mechanically Stabilized Earth Walls and Reinforced Soil Slopes (FHWA-NHI-10-024) and Culvert Scour and Hydraulic Piping Failure Guidelines.
• International Code Council (ICC): International Building Code (IBC) Section 1807 (Retaining Walls) and International Residential Code (IRC) Section R404.4 (overturning and sliding safety factors, drainage requirements, and engineering permit thresholds for walls over 1.2 meters / 4 feet).
• National Concrete Masonry Association (NCMA): Design Manual for Segmental Retaining Walls (hydrostatic pressure effects, weep hole and geotextile clogging mechanics, and live surcharge loads from parked vehicles).
• Health and Safety Executive (HSE, United Kingdom) and Institution of Structural Engineers (IStructE): Stability of Masonry Retaining Walls: Inspection, Public Exclusion Zones, and Collapse Prevention.
• Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA, United States): Homeowner's Guide to Landslide and Slope Failure Mitigation and flood culvert overtopping safety rules.

rêberên Related¶

• Landslides and mudslides: warning signs and evacuation
• Expansive clay soil heave, drought subsidence, and foundation cracking
• Nîşanên hişyariya zirara avahî û hilweşînê
• Lehiyên bilez: zindîbûna tavilê û xetereyên rê
• Tespîtkirina ketina gazê û girtina acîl
• Peldanka hejmarên acîl