Fallo da bomba de pozo e emerxencias por contaminación de pozos privados¶

More than 43 million people in the United States, over 4 million in Canada, and hundreds of millions of rural homeowners worldwide depend on a private residential groundwater well for drinking, cooking, bathing, and sanitation. Unlike municipal water utility customers whose water pressure and purification are maintained by city treatment plants, private well owners operate their own miniature water utility. When a well system suddenly loses all water pressure, cycles rapidly on and off, pumps muddy or foul-smelling water after a flood, or suffers a lightning strike or freeze-up, your household is immediately cut off from running water or exposed to waterborne pathogens and agricultural chemicals.

Roughly half of all sudden "no water" emergencies on a private well are not caused by a dead pump deep underground, but by an inexpensive, accessible component inside your basement, crawl space, or wellhouse: a tripped 240-volt double-pole circuit breaker, burnt or ant-fouled contacts inside the pressure switch, a failed starting capacitor inside the pump control box, or a ruptured rubber bladder inside the pressure tank. Understanding how to safely diagnose the electrical and hydraulic components above ground, protect a rapidly short-cycling submersible motor from burning out, and perform a full shock-chlorination disinfection after floodwaters submerge your wellhead can save you thousands of dollars and protect your family from severe illness.

Fai isto agora¶

1. Shut off the well pump circuit breaker immediately if the pump is running non-stop or clicking rapidly on and off. Walk to your pressure tank and listen closely. If you hear the pressure switch clicking every few seconds (short-cycling) or hear the pump running continuously without building pressure on the gauge, switch the double-pole well pump breaker OFF at your main electrical panel immediately. Leaving a pump short-cycling or running dry in a low-yield well or behind a broken underground pipe will melt the pump impellers and burn out a 2,500-dollar submersible motor in minutes.
2. Switch immediately to safe bottled or boiled water if floodwaters reached your wellhead or the tap water turns cloudy, muddy, or odorous. If river or surface floodwater came within 15 meters (50 feet) of your well casing, or if your tap water suddenly changes color, turbidity, taste, or smell after heavy rain or a nearby septic system failure, stop drinking the water immediately. Follow our water safety and boil notices guide by bringing clear tap water to a rolling boil for 1 full minute (or 3 minutes above 2,000 meters / 6,500 feet elevation) for microbes, or use bottled water exclusively if you suspect fuel oil, pesticide, or nitrate contamination (boiling concentrates nitrates and chemicals rather than removing them).
3. Turn off the power or fuel supply to your electric or gas hot water heater if your pipes lose water pressure. If your house loses water pressure completely and water drains backward down the supply line, the upper electric heating element inside an electric water heater can become exposed to air and burn out like a dry toaster filament in seconds (dry-firing). Turn off the 240-volt circuit breaker labeled "Water Heater" (or turn a gas water heater control dial to the "Pilot" or "Vacation" setting) until well water pressure is fully restored and air is purged from the hot water taps.
4. Read the water pressure gauge on your pressure tank tee before touching any switches. Look at the round dial gauge mounted next to the pressure switch at the base of your pressure tank. In a standard residential system set to 30/50 psi (2.⅓.4 bar) or 40/60 psi (2.8/4.1 bar), a gauge reading 0 psi tells you the pump is not turning on or a pipe has burst between the pump and tank, whereas a gauge stuck at 40 to 60 psi while no water comes out of your indoor faucets points to a clogged whole-house sediment filter, a frozen supply pipe, or a jammed water softener bypass valve downstream of the tank.
5. Inspect the double-pole breaker, GFCI, and low-water cut-off lever. Check your main electrical breaker panel to see if the two-pole well pump breaker has tripped to the center position; if tripped, flip it fully OFF and back ON once (if it trips again immediately, leave it off because there is a dead short in the motor or underground wiring). Next, look at the side of your pressure switch on the tank tee: if it has a small metal lever sticking out of the side (a low-pressure cut-off switch), a sudden pressure drop below 20 psi (1.4 bar) during heavy garden hose use will trip the switch off automatically; hold that little metal lever upward at a 45-degree angle until the tank pressure climbs past 20 psi and the pump stays running on its own.
6. Preserve emergency water sitting inside your pressure tank and water heater. Even after the well pump stops working, a functioning pressure tank still holds 15 to 45 liters (4 to 12 gallons) of clean pressurized water, and a standard residential hot water heater holds 150 to 300 liters (40 to 80 gallons) of potable water that can be drained safely from the bottom brass drain valve after shutting off the water heater breaker and opening an upstairs hot faucet to break the vacuum.

Well system emergency diagnostic flowchart¶

Use this step-by-step mechanical and electrical flowchart to isolate the exact cause of a sudden private well outage or pressure failure before calling a well driller or pump technician.

flowchart TD
    Start["Private Well Emergency:<br/>No Water, Low Pressure, Rapid Clicking, or Bad Water"] --> SymptomType{"What is the primary symptom?"}

    SymptomType -->|"Zero water at taps<br/>Gauge reads 0 psi"| PowerCheck{"Check 240V Well Breaker<br/>and Low-Pressure Cut-Off Lever"}
    SymptomType -->|"Zero or trickle water at taps<br/>Gauge reads normal 40 to 60 psi"| DownstreamBlock["Blockage Downstream of Tank:<br/>Check clogged sediment filter cartridge,<br/>frozen pipe, or stuck water softener valve"]
    SymptomType -->|"Pump clicks ON/OFF<br/>every 2 to 10 seconds"| ShortCycle["Waterlogged Pressure Tank:<br/>Turn off breaker immediately<br/>Test Schrader valve at top of tank for water"]
    SymptomType -->|"Floodwater reached wellhead<br/>or water is muddy/smelly"| FloodContam["Contaminated Well:<br/>Switch to bottled water immediately<br/>Shock-chlorinate and lab test before drinking"]

    PowerCheck -->|"Breaker trips instantly<br/>when reset"| DeadShort["Shorted Submersible Motor or Wire:<br/>Leave breaker OFF<br/>Call licensed well pump specialist"]
    PowerCheck -->|"Breaker holds ON,<br/>still 0 psi"| SwitchInspect["Turn Breaker OFF, Remove Pressure Switch Cover:<br/>Check for burnt pitted contacts, ants/earwigs,<br/>or plugged 1/4-inch nipple tube under switch"]

    SwitchInspect -->|"Contacts clean and closed,<br/>240V present on load wires"| ControlBoxCheck{"Does system have a<br/>wall-mounted Control Box<br/>(3-wire pump)?"}
    ControlBoxCheck -->|"Yes, 3-wire system"| CapacitorRelay["Test or Replace Start Capacitor<br/>and Start Relay inside Control Box"]
    ControlBoxCheck -->|"No (2-wire pump) or<br/>Control Box is good"| UndergroundFault["Pump, Check Valve, or Drop Pipe Failure:<br/>Broken pipe in well, dry aquifer,<br/>or seized submersible pump"]

Anatomy of a residential private well system¶

To troubleshoot a well emergency accurately, you first need to know which type of pump system serves your property and how water travels from the aquifer to your faucets.

1. Submersible well pump systems (Deep wells: 8 to 150+ meters / 25 to 500+ feet)¶

Most modern drilled wells with a 10- to 15-centimeter (4- to 6-inch) steel or PVC casing use a cylindrical stainless-steel submersible pump suspended near the bottom of the well shaft on polyethylene or threaded steel drop pipe, submerged permanently beneath the water table:

• Como move a auga: unha bomba sumerxible empurra a auga cara arriba en lugar de sugala. Unha válvula de retención de latón na parte superior da bomba impide que a auga do tubo de caída vertical drene cara atrás ao pozo cando a bomba se detén.
• O adaptador sen pozo: aproximadamente de 1,2 a 2,4 metros (de 4 a 8 pés) por debaixo da parte superior da cabeza do pozo (con seguridade por debaixo da liña local de xeadas de inverno), un accesorio deslizante de latón chamado adaptador sen pozo converte o fluxo de auga 90 graos horizontalmente a través do lado da carcasa do pozo e envíao a través dun sótano ou tubo seco. non pode conxelarse.
• Bombas sumerxibles de 2 fíos fronte a 3 fíos: ignorando o cable de terra verde espido, unha bomba de 2 fíos ten o interruptor de arranque construído directamente dentro do motor mergullado na parte inferior do pozo (polo que non hai caixa de control na parede do soto). Unha bomba de 3 fíos coloca o capacitor de arranque e o relé de arranque dentro dunha caixa de control da bomba metálica montada na parede xusto a carón do seu tanque de presión interior, facilitando as reparacións eléctricas sen tirar a bomba do chan.

2. Bombas de chorro de pozos pouco profundos e de pozos profundos convertibles (bombas aéreas)¶

Older homes, cabins, and properties with high water tables often have an electric motor and cast-iron pump bolted directly to the floor of the basement, crawl space, or outdoor pump house:

• Shallow-well jet pump (Depth to water less than 7.5 meters / 25 feet): Uses a single suction pipe running from the pump housing into the well. Because atmospheric pressure at sea level can only lift a column of water about 7.6 meters (25 feet) by suction, a shallow-well jet pump relies on an internal venturi nozzle and impeller that must remain completely filled with water (primed) to create suction. If a brass foot valve at the bottom of the well pipe leaks even slightly, the water drains out of the suction pipe overnight, the pump fills with air (loses its prime), and the motor spins uselessly without pumping a drop.
• Deep-well (two-pipe) jet pump (Depth to water 7.5 to 35 meters / 25 to 110 feet): Uses two parallel pipes running between the above-ground pump and the well. One smaller pipe pushes high-pressure driving water down into a submerged jet assembly in the well, which forces a larger volume of well water up the second suction pipe.

3. The pressure tank, bladder, and pressure switch (The heart and brain above ground)¶

Because water is physically incompressible, turning on a faucet if your plumbing were connected straight to the well pump would force the heavy pump motor to slam on and off every time you rinsed a toothbrush. Instead, the pump fills a steel or fiberglass pressure tank:

• Pre-charged bladder or diaphragm tank: Inside modern tanks, a heavy-duty butyl rubber bladder or diaphragm separates the tank into two halves: compressed air at the top (inflated through a bicycle-style Schrader air valve on top of the tank) and well water at the bottom. As the pump forces water into the tank, the air cushion compresses until the pressure reaches the cut-out setting (typically 50 psi / 3.4 bar or 60 psi / 4.1 bar), at which point the pressure switch snaps open and turns the pump off.
• Drawdown cycle: When you open a kitchen faucet or flush a toilet, the compressed air cushion pushes 20 to 60 liters (5 to 15 gallons) of stored water out to your fixtures without the well pump even turning on. Only when the tank pressure drops down to the cut-in setting (30 psi / 2.1 bar or 40 psi / 2.8 bar) does the pressure switch snap closed to restart the pump.

Diagnosing and fixing the 6 most common well pump failures¶

Use the comparison matrix below to match what you see, hear, and read on the pressure gauge to the exact mechanical or electrical fault, followed by step-by-step safe troubleshooting instructions.

Step-by-step fix 1: Inspecting and cleaning a fouled pressure switch¶

The small grey square box (typically a Square D Pumptrol switch) mounted on a 6-millimeter (¼-inch) brass or galvanized pipe nipple at the bottom of your pressure tank controls all electrical power to your well pump. It fails in three common ways that any cautious homeowner can check:

1. Shut off the 240-volt double-pole breaker at your main electrical panel and verify with a non-contact voltage tester or multimeter that the power is completely dead.
2. Desenrosque a única porca de latón na parte superior da tapa de plástico gris e levante a tapa para deixar ao descuberto os catro terminales de parafuso e dúas pontes de contacto con resorte.
3. Check for "fire ants, earwigs, and carbon pitting": Warm electrical fields and vibrations attract ants, earwigs, and small spiders that crawl right between the open copper contact points. When the switch snaps shut, the crushed insect bodies act as an electrical insulator, blocking the 240-volt current from reaching your pump. Even without insects, years of electrical arcing leave black carbon soot or melted metal pits on the four contact pads.
4. Clean the contacts safely: With the breaker OFF, slide a clean business card, a crisp dollar bill, or a strip of fine 400-grit emery paper between the closed contact points and pull it back and forth several times to remove dead insects or black carbon oxidation (never use coarse metal files that strip the protective silver alloy plating).
5. Check the plugged pipe nipple: If the contacts are clean and closed when the tank is at 0 psi, sometimes rust and mineral sludge completely plug the narrow 6-millimeter (¼-inch) vertical pipe nipple underneath the pressure switch, blinding the switch diaphragm so it cannot sense when water pressure drops or rises. A plumber or homeowner can drain the tank, unscrew the switch, and clear or replace that short brass pipe nipple.

Solución paso a paso 2: probar e rescatar temporalmente un tanque de presión encharcado¶

Cando a bomba do pozo arranca e apaga cada 3 segundos (ciclo curto) no momento en que alguén acende un lavabo do baño, o teu tanque de presión perdeu a súa almofada de aire comprimible (encharcado). Debido a que a auga non se pode comprimir, a extracción dunha soa cunca de auga fai caer a presión do sistema de 50 psi a 30 psi ao instante, iniciando a bomba, que logo fai que a presión volva a 50 psi en 2 segundos e apágase. Os motores de bombas sumerxibles dependen de 60 a 120 segundos de tempo de inactividade entre ciclos para permitir que a auga de refrixeración disipe a calor de arranque dos enrolamentos do motor; ciclos curtos destruirán o motor da bomba en horas ou días.

1. A proba "Tocar e axitar": empurra suavemente contra o lado do teu tanque a presión ou toca o seu lado de arriba a abaixo. Un tanque de presión saudable séntese oco e lixeiro nos dous terzos superiores e pesado só na parte inferior. Un tanque encharcado séntese sólido, pesado como o chumbo e cheo de auga ata a cúpula superior.
2. A proba da válvula de aire Schrader: Desenrosque o pequeno tapón de plástico negro situado na parte superior do tanque de presión (parece idéntico ao talo da válvula do pneumático da roda dun coche) e preme o pasador central de latón durante medio segundo co dorso dun bolígrafo ou dunha uña:
3. Se a auga brota ou brota pola válvula de aire: a vexiga interna de goma butílica rasgouse ou rompeuse por completo. O depósito debe ser substituído.
4. Se o aire sale (ou non sae nada, sen auga): a vexiga de goma aínda pode estar intacta ou perder aire lentamente ao longo dos anos, e simplemente necesita que se restaure a súa precarga de aire.
5. How to properly check and re-inflate the tank air pre-charge (The 2-PSI Rule):
6. NUNCA pode medir nin engadir aire a un tanque a presión mentres haxa presión de auga dentro do sistema (ao facelo só se le a presión da auga).
7. Step A: Turn OFF the well pump circuit breaker.
8. Paso B: abre unha billa próxima ou a válvula de drenaxe da caldeira na base do tanque e deixa que toda a auga saia ata que a auga deixe de fluír e o manómetro indique 0 psi.
9. Step C: Place a digital tire pressure gauge on the top Schrader air valve. The empty-tank air pre-charge must be set exactly 2 psi (0.14 bar) BELOW the pressure switch cut-in setting:
   • For a 30/50 psi pressure switch, inflate the empty tank to 28 psi (1.93 bar).
   • For a 40/60 psi pressure switch, inflate the empty tank to 38 psi (2.62 bar).
10. Step D: Use a bicycle pump or portable tire inflator to bring the empty tank up to 28 psi (or 38 psi), close the drain valve, and flip the well pump breaker back ON.
11. Emergency temporary air injection if the bladder is ruptured and you must wait days for a plumber: If water spurted from the top valve confirming a torn bladder, you can buy 24 to 48 hours of safe pump operation by turning off the breaker, opening the bottom tank drain valve, hooking a tire inflator to the top Schrader valve, and pumping a temporary pocket of compressed air into the top third of the tank while pushing half the water out the drain. Close the drain valve at 28 psi and turn the breaker back on. That trapped air pocket will absorb pump cycles for a day or two before gradually dissolving into the water.

Solución paso a paso 3: Substitución dun condensador de arranque fundido nunha caixa de control de 3 fíos¶

Se o teu soto ten unha caixa de control da bomba Franklin Electric, Goulds ou Pentair metálica montada na parede ao lado do tanque de presión e o teu pozo deixa de funcionar de súpeto despois dunha tormenta de verán, unha subida de tensión ou un apagón, escoita a caixa cando o interruptor de presión pida auga. Se escoitas un zumbido eléctrico momentáneo de 2 segundos seguido dun forte clic metálico (dispara o interruptor de sobrecarga térmica interna), agarde 60 segundos e abra a caixa de control con seguridade:

1. Apaga o interruptor da bomba de pozo de 240 voltios no cadro eléctrico principal.
2. Afrouxa o parafuso inferior da caixa de control da bomba e inclúa a tapa frontal cara abaixo e fóra da súa bisagra superior. Na maioría das caixas de desconexión rápida Franklin (QD) modernas, tirar da tapa desconecta automaticamente todos os compoñentes dentro da tapa dos cables da parede activos.
3. Descarga o condensador de arranque cilíndrico negro de forma segura: mesmo co interruptor apagado, o capacitor tubular negro dentro da tapa pode almacenar máis de 250 voltios de CC. Suxeita un desaparafusador polo seu aso illado de plástico ou goma só e ponte a lámina metálica entre os dous terminais de pala de latón situados na parte superior do cilindro do capacitor negro durante 3 segundos para descargar a electricidade residual.
4. Busca un fallo físico do capacitor: se a parte superior do cilindro negro está abombada cara arriba como unha lata de refresco inchada, se o pequeno tapón redondo de goma que se atopa na parte superior se abriu ou se saíu aceite de electrólito pegajoso, o capacitor de arranque de 15 dólares fallou. Podes intercambiar toda a tapa da caixa de control enchufable (se vende en tendas de ferraxes e subministracións agrícolas en función da potencia nominal, como ½ HP, ¾ HP ou 1 HP) ou deslizar os dous conectores espada nun condensador de arranque de motor de voltaxe/MFD de substitución.

Que facer cando o teu pozo está baixo ou seco durante unha seca¶

Durante as secas prolongadas do verán ou despois de encher unha piscina ou de facer funcionar continuamente aspersoras do céspede, a capa freática local pode baixar ata a pantalla de admisión da bomba sumerxible (cono de extracción).

• Warning signs of a dropping water table: Faucets sputter violently with blasts of air, cold tap water looks cloudy gray or brown with fine silt, gritty sand settles in the bottom of toilet tanks and clogs faucet aerators, or water flows normally for 10 minutes in the morning and then cuts out completely.
• How to calculate and manage well recovery:
• Immediately turn off the well pump breaker for 3 to 6 hours to allow groundwater from surrounding rock fractures to percolate back into the well bore column (static water recovery).
• When you turn the breaker back on, let the pressure tank fill completely (which takes only 1 to 2 minutes) and then restrict household water use to small bursts separated by 2-hour rest periods.
• Install an automated electronic pump protection / dry-run monitor (such as a PumpSaver or Cycle Sensor) inside your control box. These devices monitor electrical current draw in real time; the instant the well water drops to the pump intake and the impeller spins in air (underload), the sensor cuts power automatically for a programmable recovery timer (such as 60 to 120 minutes) so the pump never burns up dry.

Private well contamination emergencies: floods, septic leaks, and chemicals¶

Because private wells are not regulated or monitored by municipal water utilities under the US Safe Drinking Water Act or equivalent national utility rules, nobody tests your well water unless you do. When floodwaters cover your yard, when a heavy spring rain washes livestock manure or septic effluent toward a cracked well seal, or when an underground heating oil tank leaks, your tap water can become acutely toxic overnight.

Identificación de contaminantes da auga de pozo e que tratamento funciona¶

Different groundwater contaminants require completely different emergency responses. Crucially, boiling water ONLY kills living biological organisms (bacteria, viruses, and parasites); boiling water that contains nitrates, arsenic, lead, or fuel chemicals actually boils off pure steam and CONCENTRATES the poison in the remaining water.

Protocolo paso a paso: como clorar un pozo contaminado¶

Se as augas de inundación mergullaron a cabeza do pozo, se abriu a carcasa do pozo para substituír unha bomba ou un interruptor de presión, ou se unha proba de laboratorio deu positivo para Coliforme total ou E. coli, debes desinfectar todo o pozo, a envoltura, o tanque de presión e as liñas de fontanería doméstica mediante cloración por choque (que toda a columna de auga alcance unha concentración de aproximadamente 200 partes por millón [ppm] de cloro libre durante 12 a 24 horas).

Paso 1: calcula o volume de lixivia sen perfume necesario¶

Para acadar 200 ppm de cloro nun pozo perforado residencial estándar cunha carcasa de 10 a 15 centímetros (de 4 a 6 polgadas), use esta táboa de referencia baseada na profundidade da auga que hai no seu pozo (a profundidade total do pozo menos a profundidade estática da auga; se non se coñece, calcule usando a profundidade total máis un extra de 500 mililitros de pozo para a casa. fontanería):

Paso 2: Despeje e recircule o cloro pola envoltura do pozo¶

1. Garda auga potable e limpa durante 24 horas antes de comezar, porque ninguén na casa pode beber, ducharse, lavar a roupa ou botar auga con alto contido de cloro nunha fosa séptica en grandes volumes durante o proceso.
2. Apaga o disyuntor da bomba do pozo no cadro eléctrico principal antes de quitar a tapa metálica ou de plástico da cabeza do pozo para que non te choquen os cables da bomba rozados dentro da carcasa.
3. Desatornillar e quitar a tapa do pozo sanitario superior (ou desenroscar o tapón de ventilación roscado na parte superior do selo do pozo).
4. Pre-dilúe a lixivia en baldes de plástico limpos de 19 litros (5 galóns) de auga (aproximadamente 1 parte de lixivia por 4 partes de auga) mentres usa protección para os ollos e luvas de goma, e verte a solución de cloro diluída lentamente polas paredes interiores da carcasa do pozo.
5. Wash down the dry upper casing and mix the water column (Recirculation): Connect a clean garden hose to an outdoor spigot closest to the pressure tank, place the other end of the hose down into the open top of the well casing, turn the well pump breaker back ON, and open the hose bibb.
6. Let the garden hose circulate water out of the well and straight back down the inside walls of the casing for 30 to 60 minutes until you smell a strong, unmistakable chlorine odor coming out of the garden hose (or verify a purple reading on a 200-ppm high-range chlorine test strip). This step washes bacteria off the upper dry casing walls and mixes the chlorine all the way to the bottom of the well. Turn off the outdoor hose.

Paso 3: tira auga clorada en cada billa e tubo interior¶

1. Entra na casa e, un a un, abre todos os aparellos de auga fría e quente: pía da cociña, pías do baño, bañeiras, duchas, mangueiras de abastecemento da lavadora, bocas de auga ao aire libre sen xeadas e tira todos os inodoros unha vez.
2. Abra cada billa ata que cheira un forte cheiro a lixivia de cloro que sae desa billa específica (ou proba cunha tira de papel de cloro) e despois pecha esa billa inmediatamente.
3. Non esquezas drenar de 20 a 40 litros (5 a 10 litros) do fondo do teu aquecedor de auga quente e deixalo encher con auga clorada para esterilizar as bacterias do tanque quente.

Paso 4: Manteña durante 12 a 24 horas de tempo de contacto¶

Deixa a auga clorada sen perturbar dentro da carcasa do pozo, do tanque a presión e de todas as tubaxes domésticas durante polo menos 12 horas, e idealmente 24 horas durante a noite. Non use auga durante esta ventá de contacto. Inspeccione a xunta de goma da tapa do pozo e reinstale a tapa de forma segura na cabeza do pozo.

Paso 5: Lave o pozo ao aire libre (Nunca no teu tanque séptico) e volve probar¶

1. Nunca drene 200 ppm de auga de pozo con cloro de choque por pías ou inodoros interiores nun sistema séptico privado. Inundar o teu tanque séptico con centos de litros de auga superclorada matará as bacterias anaeróbicas beneficiosas dentro do teu tanque séptico e verterá enormes volumes hidráulicos que arruinarán o teu campo de drenaxe.
2. En vez diso, leva unha mangueira de xardín longa desde unha billa exterior ata unha calzada de grava, cuneta ou zona de céspede plana situada polo menos a 15 a 30 metros (de 50 a 100 pés) de distancia de calquera regato, estanque, corrente de peixes, drenaxe séptica ou plantas de xardín apreciadas (alto cloro e é letal para os peixes).
3. Encienda a mangueira exterior a un caudal moderado (observe o seu manómetro para asegurarse de que non bombee o pozo seco; cíclea a mangueira durante 30 minutos, 30 minutos apagada se o seu pozo ten unha taxa de recuperación baixa) ata que o forte cheiro a cloro desapareza ao aire libre.
4. Finalmente, abra as billas interiores de 5 a 10 minutos cada unha para limpar a pequena cantidade de auga clorada que queda dentro dos tubos da casa, reinstale os sedimentos limpos e os filtros de carbón, retire o ablandador de auga do bypass e continúe fervendo auga potable ata que un laboratorio de auga certificado probe unha mostra tomada de 7 a 14 días despois e confirme cero * E Coliform. coli bacterias*.

Protexe o teu pozo da conxelación do inverno e os danos dos incendios forestais¶

• Prevención da conxelación do pozo de inverno e do interruptor de presión: aínda que a túa bomba sumerxible estea a 60 metros baixo terra, un pozo sen illado ou un espazo de rastrexo frío conxelará a estreita boquilla de 6 milímetros (¼ de polgada) baixo o interruptor de presión a 0 graos Celsius (32 graos Fahrenheit). Debido a que o tapón de xeo conxelado atrapa unha lectura de presión de 50 psi dentro do diafragma do interruptor, o interruptor nunca sabe que a túa casa está sen auga ou, pola contra, bloquea a bomba ON ata que rebente o tubo de PVC. Illa sempre as tubaxes do tanque a presión, manteña un aquecedor ou cinta térmica controlada termostáticamente nos tubos de pozo expostos, e nunca use un facho de propano a lama aberta para descongelar os tubos de PVC ou polietileno.
• Despois de que un incendio forestal pase sobre a túa propiedade: a intensa calor radiante dunha herba ou dun incendio forestal adoita derreter as ventilacións de pozos de PVC sobre o chan, queima o cableado de control da bomba e provoca presión negativa nas liñas de auga que absorbe benceno, tolueno e vapores de estireno tóxicos dos tubos de plástico derretidos ao sistema de augas subterráneas. Despois dun incendio forestal, non beber nin ducharse en auga do pozo aínda que a auga pareza clara; que un laboratorio certificado realice unha exploración de Compostos Orgánicos Volátiles (COV) en busca de benceno xunto cunha proba bacteriana antes de retomar o uso.

Preguntas frecuentes¶

Fontes comprobadas¶

• Axencia de Protección Ambiental dos Estados Unidos (US EPA): Pozos privados de auga potable, Que facer co seu pozo privado despois dunha inundación e protocolos de Desinfección de emerxencia da auga potable.
• Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC, Estados Unidos): Probas de pozos, Desinfección de pozos despois dunha emerxencia (cloración de choque) e Prevención de nitratos/methemoglobinemia en pozos privados.
• Asociación Nacional de Augas Subterráneas (NGWA, Estados Unidos/Internacional): Guía do propietario de pozos (WellOwner.org) que abarca diagnósticos de bombas sumerxibles e de chorro, mantemento de depresión de tanques a presión, xestión de secas e alertas de contaminación por benceno por incendios forestais.
• Saúde Canadá (Canadá): Este ben informado: información para propietarios privados de pozos e Orientación sobre patóxenos bacterianos transmitidos pola auga e nitratos/nitritos en subministracións de pozos residenciais.
• Drinking Water Inspectorate (DWI, Reino Unido) e Axencia de Seguridade Sanitaria do Reino Unido (UKHSA): Private Water Supplies: Technical Guidance on Risk Assessment, Borehole Headworks Protection, and Desinfection.
• Penn State Extension e University of Minnesota Extension (Estados Unidos): Cloración por choque de pozos e mananciais e boletíns de solución de problemas de tanque de presión hidráulica/interruptor de presión.

Guías relacionadas¶

• Avisos de seguridade da auga e ferver
• Fallo do sistema séptico e copia de seguridade
• Corte de enerxía
• Inundacións