Fa'aletonu pamu ma fa'alavelave fa'afuase'i ua afaina ai vaieli¶

E sili atu i le 43 miliona tagata i le Iunaite Setete, sili atu i le 4 miliona i Kanata, ma le faitau selau miliona o tagata e ona fale i tua i le lalolagi atoa e faalagolago i se vaieli e nonofo ai i lalo o le eleele mo le inu, kuka, taele, ma le tumama. E le pei o tagata fa'atau vai fa'alenu'u o lo'o fa'atumauina le mamafa ma le fa'amamāina o vai e fale e fa'amama ai le taulaga, e fa'agaoioia e tagata e ana vaieli a latou lava vai laiti. Pe a fa'afuase'i ona mou atu le mamafa o le vai i se vaieli, fa'avavevave le ta'amilosaga, pamu le palapala pe manogi leaga pe a uma se lologa, pe mafatia i le uila po'o le malulu, e vave lava ona motusia lou aiga mai vai tafe pe a'afia i vai fa'ama'i ma vaila'au fa'ato'aga.

E tusa o le afa o faʻalavelave faʻafuaseʻi "leai se vai" i luga o se vaieli tumaoti e le mafua mai i se pamu mate i lalo o le eleele, ae o se mea taugofie, e mafai ona maua i totonu o lou fogafale i lalo, avanoa tolotolo, poʻo le fale vaieli: o se vaʻa taʻavale lua 240-volt, mu poʻo loi-fesoʻotaʻi i totonu o le kiki, se pusa paʻu e le mafai ona amata, poʻo totonu o le pusa paʻu paʻu ua paʻu. Malamalama i le auala e siaki saogalemu ai vaega eletise ma hydraulic i luga aʻe o le eleele, puipuia se afi faʻafefe vave faʻataʻavalevale mai le mu, ma faia se faʻamaʻi faʻamaʻi faʻafuaseʻi-chlorination pe a uma ona tafe lou ulu vaieli e mafai ona laveaʻiina oe i le faitau afe o tala ma puipuia lou aiga mai maʻi tuga.

Fai nei loa¶

1. Tape vave le pamu va'a va'a pe a alu le pamu pe o'omi vave i luga ma tape. Savali atu i lau tane vai ma fa'alogo lelei. Afai e te fa'alogoina le kiki o le kiki i nai sekone uma (ti'eti'e uila pu'upu'u) pe fa'alogoina o lo'o fa'aauau pea le pamu e aunoa ma le fa'atupuina o le mamafa i luga o le fua, ia vave fa'afeso'ota'i le va'a pamu vaieli-lua OFF i lau laulau eletise autu. O le tu'ua o se pamu pupu'u uila po'o le fa'amago i totonu o se vaieli maualalo po'o tua o se paipa ta'e lalo ole eleele o le a liusuavai ai pamu pamu ma mu ai se afi e 2,500-tala i totonu o minute.
2. Switch immediately to safe bottled or boiled water if floodwaters reached your wellhead or the tap water turns cloudy, muddy, or odorous. If river or surface floodwater came within 15 meters (50 feet) of your well casing, or if your tap water suddenly changes color, turbidity, taste, or smell after heavy rain or a nearby septic system failure, stop drinking the water immediately. Follow our water safety and boil notices guide by bringing clear tap water to a rolling boil for 1 full minute (or 3 minutes above 2,000 meters / 6,500 feet elevation) for microbes, or use bottled water exclusively if you suspect fuel oil, pesticide, or nitrate contamination (boiling concentrates nitrates and chemicals rather than removing them).
3. Turn off the power or fuel supply to your electric or gas hot water heater if your pipes lose water pressure. If your house loses water pressure completely and water drains backward down the supply line, the upper electric heating element inside an electric water heater can become exposed to air and burn out like a dry toaster filament in seconds (dry-firing). Turn off the 240-volt circuit breaker labeled "Water Heater" (or turn a gas water heater control dial to the "Pilot" or "Vacation" setting) until well water pressure is fully restored and air is purged from the hot water taps.
4. Read the water pressure gauge on your pressure tank tee before touching any switches. Look at the round dial gauge mounted next to the pressure switch at the base of your pressure tank. In a standard residential system set to 30/50 psi (2.⅓.4 bar) or 40/60 psi (2.8/4.1 bar), a gauge reading 0 psi tells you the pump is not turning on or a pipe has burst between the pump and tank, whereas a gauge stuck at 40 to 60 psi while no water comes out of your indoor faucets points to a clogged whole-house sediment filter, a frozen supply pipe, or a jammed water softener bypass valve downstream of the tank.
5. Inspect the double-pole breaker, GFCI, and low-water cut-off lever. Check your main electrical breaker panel to see if the two-pole well pump breaker has tripped to the center position; if tripped, flip it fully OFF and back ON once (if it trips again immediately, leave it off because there is a dead short in the motor or underground wiring). Next, look at the side of your pressure switch on the tank tee: if it has a small metal lever sticking out of the side (a low-pressure cut-off switch), a sudden pressure drop below 20 psi (1.4 bar) during heavy garden hose use will trip the switch off automatically; hold that little metal lever upward at a 45-degree angle until the tank pressure climbs past 20 psi and the pump stays running on its own.
6. Faasao le vai faʻafuaseʻi o loʻo i totonu o lau tane vai ma faʻavevela vai. E tusa lava pe ua le toe galue le pamu vaieli, o loʻo i ai pea i le tane vai o loʻo galue le 15 i le 45 lita (4 i le 12 kalone) o vai mama mama, ma o le vai vevela e masani ona nofo ai le 150 i le 300 lita (40 i le 80 kalone vai e mafai ona faʻafefe i lalo) tapuni le fa'avevela vai ma tatala se paipa vevela i le fogafale i luga e ta'e ai le masini.

Well system fa'alavelave fa'afuase'i siata tafe¶

Fa'aoga le la'asaga ta'i ta'i la'asaga fa'ainisinia ma le eletise e fa'ailoa ai le mafua'aga tonu o se vaieli fa'afuase'i po'o le fa'aletonu o le mamafa a'o le'i vala'au se vaieli po'o se tekinisia pamu.

flowchart TD
    Start["Fa'alavelave Fa'afuase'i Vaieli Tumaoti:<br/>Leai se Suavai, Maualalo, Kiliki vave, po'o Suavai Leaga"] --> SymptomType{"O le a le faailoga muamua?"}

    SymptomType -->|"Ole vai ile paipa<br/>E faitau le fua ile 0 psi"| PowerCheck{"Siaki 240V Well Breaker<br/>ma Low-Pressure Cut-Off Lever"}
    SymptomType -->|"Ole vai pe tafe ile paipa<br/>E faitau le fua masani ile 40 i le 60 psi"| DownstreamBlock["Fa'agata i lalo ole Tane:<br/>Siaki kesi fa'amama palapala,<br/>paipa fa'aaisa, po'o le alavai fa'amalulu vai pipii."]
    SymptomType -->|"Pamu kiliki ON/OFF<br/>ta'i 2 i le 10 sekone"| ShortCycle["Vaivai Vaivai:<br/>Tape le va'a vave<br/>Su'ega Schrader valve i luga o le tane mo le vai"]
    SymptomType -->|"E o'o atu le vai lolo i le vaieli<br/>po'o le vai e palapala/suasu"| FloodContam["Lelei Fa'aleaga:<br/>Sui vave ile fagu vai<br/>Shock-chlorinate ma su'esu'ega ile falesu'esu'e a'o le'i inu."]

    PowerCheck -->|"E alu vave le Breaker<br/>pe a toe setiina"| DeadShort["Puupuu afi Suamu po'o Uaea:<br/>Tu'u le mea momotu PAT<br/>Valaau le poto faapitoa i pamu vaieli."]
    PowerCheck -->|"O loo tumau pea le breaker,<br/>0 psi pea"| SwitchInspect["Ta'u le Tape, Ave'ese le Ufiufi Suiga:<br/>Siaki mo ni mea fa'afeso'ota'i mu, loi/earwigs,<br/>po'o fa'apipi'i 1/4-inisi fa'aau susu i lalo ole ki."]

    SwitchInspect -->|"Faʻafesoʻotaʻi mama ma tapuni,<br/>240V o loʻo iai i luga o uaea uta"| ControlBoxCheck{"E i ai i le faiga se<br/>Pusa Pulea fa'apipi'i puipui<br/>(3-uaea pamu)?"}
    ControlBoxCheck -->|"Ioe, 3-uaea faiga"| CapacitorRelay["Su'ega po'o Sui Amata Capacitor<br/>ma Amata Relay i totonu Pusa Pulea"]
    ControlBoxCheck -->|"Leai (2-uaea pamu) poʻo<br/>Pusa Pulea e lelei"| UndergroundFault["Pamu, Valve Siaki, po'o le Pa'u Paipa ua le manuia:<br/>Papa gau i totonu o le vaieli, aquifer mago,<br/>po'o pu'eina pamu fa'asusu"]

Tulaga o se vaieli tumaoti nofomau¶

Ina ia fo'ia sa'o se fa'alavelave fa'afuase'i, e mana'omia muamua ona e iloa po'o le ā le ituaiga pamu e fa'aoga ai lou fanua ma pe fa'afefea fo'i ona alu le vai mai le aquifer i au paipa.

1. Va'alele fa'a'ele'ele faiga pamu (Vaeli loloto: 8 i le 150+ mita / 25 i le 500+ futu)¶

O le tele o vaieli fa'aonapo nei e viliina i le 10- i le 15-senimita (4- i le 6-inisi) uamea po'o le pusa PVC e fa'aaogaina se u'amea u'amea u'amea pamu fa'asusu fa'amau i tafatafa o le pito i lalo o le vaieli i luga o le polyethylene po'o le filo uamea pa'u paipa, fa'asusu tumau i lalo o le vai:

• Fa'afefea ona fe'avea'i le vai: O se pamu fa'aloloto e tuleia le vai i luga nai lo le susu. O le apamemea ** siaki valve** i le pito i luga o le pamu e taofia ai le vai i totonu o le paipa pa'u sa'o mai le tafe i tua i totonu o le vaieli pe a taofi le pamu.
• O le pitless adapter: E tusa ma le 1.2 i le 2.4 mita (4 i le 8 futu) i lalo ifo o le pito i luga o le vaieli (saogalemu i lalo ole laina malulu malulu i le lotoifale), o se apamemea fa'ase'e fa'atasi fa'atasi e ta'ua o le pitless adapter e liliu ai le tafe o le vai i le 90 tikeri fa'alava i le itu o le vaieli ma fa'asolo atu i totonu o se paipa o lo'o tanumia i luga o le vai e le mafai ona tolotolo i totonu o lou potu i lalo.
• 2-uaea ma le 3-uaea pamu i lalo: A le amana'ia le uaea lanu meamata lanumeamata, o le 2-uaea pamu o lo'o fau sa'o lona ki amata i totonu o le afi fa'agogo i lalo i le pito i lalo o le vaieli (o lea e leai se pusa fa'atonutonu i luga o lou puipui pito i lalo). O le 3-uaea pamu e tu'u ai le capacitor amata ma amata le fa'amomoli i totonu o se u'amea pusa fa'atonutonu pamu o lo'o fa'apipi'i i luga o le puipui i tafatafa tonu o lou tane vai, fa'afaigofie le lipea o le eletise e aunoa ma le tosoina o le pamu mai le eleele.

2. Pa'u pa'u-vai'eli ma mafai ona liua va'alele loloto (Pamu i luga o le eleele)¶

O fale tuai, fale, ma meatotino e maualuga le vai e masani ona i ai se afi eletise ma pamu uʻamea e faʻapipiʻi saʻo i le fola o le fogafale i lalo, avanoa totolo, poʻo le fale pamu i fafo:

• Pau paipa pa'u (Loloto i le vai e itiiti ifo i le 7.5 mita / 25 futu): Fa'aaogā se paipa fa'asusu e tasi e tafe mai le fale pamu i totonu o le vaieli. Talu ai e na'o le 7.6 mita (25 futu) e mafai ona si'itia ai e le ea i luga o le sami se vai, o le pamu papa'u-vai e fa'alagolago i se fa'asuavai venturi i totonu ma le impeller e tatau ona tumau faatumu atoa i le vai (primed) e fa'asusu ai. Afai o se apamemea valava vae i le pito i lalo o le paipa vaieli e tafe teisi, o le vai e alu ese mai le paipa suction i le po, o le pamu e tumu i le ea (e leiloa lona maualuga), ma le afi e le aoga e aunoa ma le pamuina o se mataua.
• Vaeli loloto (lua-paipa) pamu paipa (Loloto i le vai 7.5 i le 35 mita / 25 i le 110 futu): Fa'aaogaina paipa tutusa e lua e tafe i le va o le pamu i luga o le eleele ma le vaieli. O le tasi paipa la'ititi e tuleia le vai e ave i lalo i lalo i totonu o se paipa fa'afefeteina i totonu o le vaieli, lea e fa'amalosia ai le tele o vai vaieli i luga le paipa fa'asusu lona lua.

3. O le tane mamafa, tami, ma le kiki (O le fatu ma le fai'ai i luga a'e o le eleele)¶

Ona o le vai e le mafai ona fa'amalosi tino, o le ki ai o le paipa pe a fa'afeso'ota'i sa'o lau paipa i le pamu vaieli e fa'amalosi ai le afi pamu mamafa e sū i luga ma tape i taimi uma e te fufuluina ai se pulumu fulunifo. Nai lo lena, o le pamu e fa'atumuina se uamea po'o le fiberglass tane fa'amalosi:

• Pre-charged bladder or diaphragm tank: Inside modern tanks, a heavy-duty butyl rubber bladder or diaphragm separates the tank into two halves: compressed air at the top (inflated through a bicycle-style Schrader air valve on top of the tank) and well water at the bottom. As the pump forces water into the tank, the air cushion compresses until the pressure reaches the cut-out setting (typically 50 psi / 3.4 bar or 60 psi / 4.1 bar), at which point the pressure switch snaps open and turns the pump off.
• Drawdown cycle: When you open a kitchen faucet or flush a toilet, the compressed air cushion pushes 20 to 60 liters (5 to 15 gallons) of stored water out to your fixtures without the well pump even turning on. Only when the tank pressure drops down to the cut-in setting (30 psi / 2.1 bar or 40 psi / 2.8 bar) does the pressure switch snap closed to restart the pump.

Diagnosing and fixing the 6 most common well pump failures¶

Use the comparison matrix below to match what you see, hear, and read on the pressure gauge to the exact mechanical or electrical fault, followed by step-by-step safe troubleshooting instructions.

Fa'atonu la'asaga 1: Su'esu'eina ma fa'amamāina se ki fa'amama ua leaga¶

O le tama'i pusa faatafafa efuefu (e masani lava o le Square D Pumptrol ki) fa'apipi'i i luga o le 6-milimita (¼-inisi) apamemea apamemea po'o le u'amea paipa i le pito i lalo o lau tane mamafa e pulea uma eletise i lau pamu vaieli. E le manuia i auala masani e tolu e mafai e soʻo se tagata e ona le fale faʻaeteete ona siaki:

1. Tape le 240-volt pole-pole breaker i lau laulau eletise autu ma fa'amaonia i se su'ega eletise e le o feso'ota'i po'o se multimeter ua mate atoa le paoa.
2. Tatala le nati apamemea e tasi i le pito i luga o le ufiufi palasitika efuefu ma sii ese le ufiufi ina ia fa'aalia ai fa'amau fa'ailoga ma alalaupapa fa'afeso'ota'i e lua.
3. Siaki mo "loi afi, earwigs, ma carbon pitting": Ele'ele māfanafana ma vibration e tosina mai ai loi, earwigs, ma apogaleveleve laiti e fetolofi sa'o i le va o nofoaga fa'afeso'ota'i apamemea matala. Pe a tapuni le ki, o tino iniseti ua nutimomoia e fai o se insulator eletise, e poloka ai le 240-volt current mai le oo atu i lau pamu. E tusa lava pe leai ni iniseti, o le tele o tausaga o le faʻaogaina o le eletise e tuʻu ai le suauʻu kaponi uliuli poʻo lua uamea faʻafefe i luga o papa faʻafesoʻotaʻi.
4. Faamama ma le saogalemu ia feso'ota'iga: Fa'atasi ai ma le ta'e OFF, fa'ase'e se kata pisinisi mama, se tala tala tala, po'o se fasipepa 400-grit emery lelei i le va o mea fa'afeso'ota'i tapuni ma toso i tua ma luma fa'atele e aveese ai iniseti mate po'o le fa'ama'i kaponi uliuli ('aua lava ne'i fa'aogaina faila u'amea mata'utia e tafiesea ai le u'amea siliva puipui).
5. Siaki le susu paipa ua pala: Afai e mama ma tapuni ia mea fa'afeso'ota'i pe a o'o i le 0 psi le tane, o nisi taimi e fa'apipi'i atoa ai ele ele ma palapala minerale le 6-milimita (¼-inisi) tu'usa'o 6-milimita (¼-inisi) vili paipa i lalo ifo o le ki, fa'apogisa ai le diaphragm ki e le iloa pe a pa'u pe si'i a'e le mamafa o le vai. E mafai e se palama po'o se tagata e ona le fale ona fa'amama le tane, tatala le ki, ma fa'amama pe sui le u'amea pu'upu'u paipa paipa.

Fa'atonu la'asaga 2: Fa'ata'ita'i ma lavea'i mo se taimi lē tumau se tane vai¶

A kiki ma tape lau pamu vaieli ile 3 sekone (ti'etiʻe uila puʻupuʻu) i le taimi lava e ki ai e se tasi le faatanoa faletaele, ua leiloa e lau tane mamafa lona aluga o le ea faʻapipiʻi (vai). Talu ai e le mafai ona faʻapipiʻi le vai, o le tosoina o se ipu vai e tasi e paʻu ai le mamafa o le tino mai le 50 psi i le 30 psi i le taimi lava lena, amata le pamu, ona toe faʻafoʻi lea o le mamafa i le 50 psi i le 2 sekone ma tapuni. ** O afi pamu e mafai ona fa'asa'o e fa'alagolago i le 60 i le 120 sekone o le malologa i le va o ta'amilosaga e fa'ataga ai le vai mālūlū e fa'ate'a le vevela o le afi mai ta'amilosaga afi; o le uila puʻupuʻu e faʻaumatia ai le afi pamu i totonu o itula poʻo aso.**

1. O le su'ega "Tu'itu'i ma lulu": Oomi lemu i le itu o lau tane oomi pe tata i lalo lona itu mai luga i lalo. O se tane mamafa malosi e lagona le gaogao ma le mama i le pito i luga lua vaetolu ma mamafa i le pito i lalo. O se tane vai e lagona le malo, mamafa e pei o le ta'ita'i, ma fa'atumuina i vai e o'o lava i le pito i luga.
2. Le su'ega a le Schrader air valve: Tatala le pulou palasitika uliuli laititi i luga o le tane mamafa (e foliga tutusa ma le pa'u pa'u valve o lo'o i luga o le uili o le ta'avale) ma fa'aiti le pine apamemea ogatotonu mo le afa sekone i tua o se peni po'o se atigilima:
3. Afai e puna mai le vai pe sasaa mai le alavai o le ea: Ua masae pe gau atoa le ta'e o le butyl i totonu. E tatau ona sui le tane.
4. Afai e sau i fafo le ea (pe leai se mea e sau, leai se vai): O le tami pa'u o lo'o tumau pea, pe tafe malie le ea i le tele o tausaga, ma na'o le mana'omia lava ona toe fa'afo'i le ea muamua.
5. E fa'afefea ona siaki lelei ma toe fa'asusu le tane ea a'o le'i totogia (The 2-PSI Rule):
6. ** E LĒ mafai ona e fuaina pe fa'aopoopo le ea i se tane fa'amalosi a'o i ai le mamafa o le vai i totonu o le masini** (e na'o le faitauina o le mamafa o le vai).
7. Laasaga A: Tape TA'E ​​le va'a va'alele pamu.
8. Laasaga B: Tatala le paipa lata ane po'o le alavai alavai i le pito i lalo o le tane ma tu'u i fafo ** uma** vai se'ia uma le tafe o le vai ma faitau le fua o le mamafa 0 psi.
9. Laasaga C: Tu'u se fua fa'akomepiuta o pa'u pa'u ile pito i luga ole Schrader ea valve. E tatau ona seti le ea ea gaogao i le taimi muamua ** * 2 psi (0.14 pa) I LALO o le kiki o le kiki ua tipi i totonu**:
   • Mo le 30/50 psi ki omiomi, fa'a'a'a'a le tane gaogao i le 28 psi (1.93 pa).
   • Mo le 40/60 psi ki omiomi, fa'a'a'a'a le tane gaogao i le 38 psi (2.62 pa).
10. Laasaga D: Fa'aaogā se pamu uila po'o se mea fa'amu pa'u pa'u fe'avea'i e fa'ae'e ai le tane gaogao i le 28 psi (po'o le 38 psi), tapuni le alavai alavai, ma toe fa'afo'i le va'a pamu vaieli ON.
11. ** Fa'alavelave fa'afuase'i tui ea pe a gau le tami ma e tatau ona e fa'atali mo ni aso mo se palama**: Afai e puna mai le vai mai le alavai pito i luga e fa'amaonia ai se tami ua masae, e mafai ona e fa'atau le 24 i le 48 itula o le pamu saogalemu e ala i le tapeina o le ta'e, tatala le alavai vaivai pito i lalo, fa'amau le pa'u pa'u i le pito i luga o le va'a Schrader, ma fa'amauina le tagavai lona tolu a'o tulei i fafo le pusa ea lona tolu. le alavai. Tapuni le alavai alavai i le 28 psi ma toe ki i luga le va'a. O lena taga ea ua maileia o le a mitiia ta'amilosaga pamu mo se aso pe lua a'o le'i fa'asolosolo malie ile vai.

Fa'atonu la'asaga 3: Suia se capacitor amata ua feula i totonu o se pusa fa'atonu 3-uaea.¶

Afai o lou fogafale i lalo o lo'o i ai se u'amea Franklin Electric, Goulds, po'o le Pentair Pusa e pulea pamu o lo'o fa'apipi'i i luga o le puipui i talaane o le tane vai, ma fa'afuase'i ona le toe galue lau vaieli pe a mae'a se faititili o le tau mafanafana, pa'u eletise, po'o le enaena, fa'alogo i le atigipusa pe a vala'au le ki mo le vai. Afai e te fa'alogoina se hamu eletise e 2-lua ona sosoo ai lea ma se u'amea leotele kiliki (ua pa'u le mea e motu ai le mamafa i totonu), fa'atali mo le 60 sekone ma tatala ma le saogalemu le pusa fa'atonu:

1. Ta'u le pamu vaieli 240-volt TA'E ​​i le laulau eletise autu.
2. Tatala le sikulima pito i lalo i luga o le pusa faʻatonutonu pamu ma sasau le tapuni pito i luma i lalo ma alu ese lona faʻamau pito i luga. I le tele o pusa fa'aonaponei a Franklin Quick-Disconnect (QD), o le tosoina o le tapuni e otometi lava ona motusia vaega uma i totonu o le tapuni mai uaea puipui ola.
3. Ta'u ma le saogalemu le capacitor start cylindrical uliuli: E oo lava i le motusia, o le capacitor tubular black i totonu o le tapuni e mafai ona teuina le 250+ volts DC. Uu le sikulifili i lona na'o le palasitika po o le 'au pa'u ma fa'afeso'ota'i le lau u'amea i fa'amau apamemea e lua i luga o le pa'u capacitor uliuli mo le 3 sekone e fa'amalo ai so'o se eletise o totoe.
4. ** Vaavaai mo le faaletonu o le capacitor physical**: Afai e fa'apupula i luga le pito i luga o le pa'u uliuli e pei o se apa fulafula, pe afai ua matala le tamai pa'u pa'u lapotopoto o lo'o i luga, pe ua sasaa i fafo le suauu eletise pipii, ua le manuia le capacitor amata e $15. E mafai ona e fesuia'i le tapuni atoa o pusa pusa (fa'atau atu i faleoloa o meafaigaluega ma fa'ato'aga e fetaui ma le fua o le malosi o solofanua, e pei o le ½ HP, ¾ HP, po'o le 1 HP) pe fa'ase'e fo'i feso'ota'iga va'a e lua i luga o se masini sui MFD/voltage-start capacitor.

O le a le mea e fai pe a vaivai lau vaieli pe mago i le taimi o le lamala¶

I taimi umi lamala o le tau mafanafana pe a uma ona fa'atumu se vaita'ele po'o le fa'asa'oina pea o le mutia, e mafai ona pa'u ifo le laulau vai o le eleele i lalo i le lau o lau pamu fa'asusu (drawdown cone).

• Fa'ailoga lapata'iga o le pa'u o le vai: Ta'a'a mai paipa i le sau o le ea, o vai paipa malulu e foliga efuefu efuefu pe enaena ma palapala lelei, e to'a le oneone i le pito i lalo o tane faleuila ma pupuni ai le paipa, pe tafe le vai mo le 10 minute i le taeao ona tipi uma lea.
• Faʻafefea ona faʻatatau ma pulea lelei le toe faʻaleleia:
• Vave loa tape le pamu vaieli mo le 3 i le 6 itula ina ia mafai ai ona toe so'a'i le vai o le eleele mai papa ma'a si'osi'o i totonu o le koluma o le vaieli (static water recovery).
• A e toe ki i tua le ta'e, tu'u le tane mamafa e tumu atoa (lea e na'o le 1 i le 2 minute) ona fa'atapula'a lea o le fa'aogaina o le vai i totonu o le fale i ni ta'i laiti e tu'ueseese e 2-itula malologa.
• Fa'apipi'i se fa'aeletonika otometi ** puipui pamu / mata'itū-mamago** (pei o le PumpSaver po'o le Cycle Sensor) i totonu o lau pusa fa'atonutonu. O nei masini e mata'ituina le fa'aogaina o le eletise i le taimi moni; o le taimi lava e pa'ū ai le vai vaieli i le pamu ma taamilo le mea faʻamalosi i le ea (underload), e otometi lava ona tipi le mana o le masini mo se taimi e toe faʻaleleia ai le polokalame (e pei o le 60 i le 120 minute) ina ia aua neʻi mu le pamu.

Fa'alavelave fa'afuase'i o lo'o fa'aleagaina ai vaieli: lologa, tafega o septic, ma vaila'au¶

Ona o vaieli tumaoti e le o fa'atulafonoina pe mata'ituina e fale fa'aoga vai a le malo i lalo o le US Safe Drinking Water Act po'o tulafono tutusa a le atunu'u, e leai se tasi e su'eina lau vaieli se'i vagana ua e faia. A ufitia e lologa lou lotoa, pe a mutimuti mamafa le tautotogo e mulumulu ai otaota lafumanu po o septic effluent agai i se vaieli ta'e, pe a tafe se tane suau'u faamafanafana i lalo ole eleele, e mafai ona oona tele lou vai paipa i le po.

Fa'ailoaina o vai vaieli ma po'o fea togafitiga e aoga¶

E 'ese'ese vai 'ele'ele e mana'omia ai tali fa'afuase'i 'ese'ese. O le mea e sili ona taua, E NA'O le fa'apuna o le vai e tapeina ai meaola ola (bacteria, viruses, ma parasites); vai fa'apuna o lo'o iai nite, arsenic, lead, po'o vaila'au fa'afui'u e fa'apuna a'e ai le ausa mama ma fa'atumauina le 'ona i le vai o totoe.

Step-by-step protocol: how to shock-chlorinate a contaminated well¶

If floodwaters submerged your wellhead, if you opened the well casing to replace a pump or pressure switch, or if a laboratory test returned positive for Total Coliform or E. coli bacteria, you must disinfect the entire well bore, casing, pressure tank, and household plumbing lines using shock chlorination (bringing the entire water column to a concentration of approximately 200 parts per million [ppm] free chlorine for 12 to 24 hours).

Step 1: Calculate the volume of unscented bleach required¶

To reach 200 ppm of chlorine in a standard residential drilled well with a 10- to 15-centimeter (4- to 6-inch) casing, use this reference table based on the depth of water standing in your well (total well depth minus static water depth; if unknown, calculate using the total depth of the well plus an extra 500 milliliters / 2 cups for the house plumbing):

Step 2: Pour and recirculate the chlorine down the well casing¶

1. Store clean drinking and flushing water for 24 hours before starting, because no one in the house can drink, shower, wash clothes, or flush high-chlorine water into a septic tank in large volumes during the process.
2. Switch OFF the well pump circuit breaker at the main electrical panel before removing the metal or plastic wellhead cap so you cannot be shocked by chafed pump wires inside the casing.
3. Unbolt and lift off the top sanitary well cap (or unscrew the threaded breather vent plug on top of the well seal).
4. Pre-dilute the bleach in clean 19-liter (5-gallon) plastic buckets of water (roughly 1 part bleach to 4 parts water) while wearing eye protection and rubber gloves, and pour the diluted chlorine solution slowly down the inside walls of the well casing.
5. ** Fufulu i lalo le fa'agogo pito i luga ma fa'afefiloi le koluma vai (Recirculation): Fa'afeso'ota'i se fa'amama fa'ato'aga i se spigot i fafo e latalata i le tane fa'amalosi, tu'u le isi pito o le fa'agaau i lalo i le pito i luga matala o le pusa vaieli, toe fa'afo'i le pamu vaieli ** ON, ma tatala le paipa faagaau.
6. Let the garden hose circulate water out of the well and straight back down the inside walls of the casing for 30 to 60 minutes until you smell a strong, unmistakable chlorine odor coming out of the garden hose (or verify a purple reading on a 200-ppm high-range chlorine test strip). This step washes bacteria off the upper dry casing walls and mixes the chlorine all the way to the bottom of the well. Turn off the outdoor hose.

Step 3: Draw chlorinated water into every indoor faucet and pipe¶

1. Walk inside the house and, one by one, open every cold and hot water fixture: kitchen sink, bathroom sinks, bathtubs, showers, washing machine supply hoses, outdoor frost-free hydrants, and flush every toilet once.
2. Run each tap just until you smell a strong chlorine bleach odor coming out of that specific faucet (or test with a chlorine paper strip), then shut that faucet off immediately.
3. Do not forget to drain 20 to 40 liters (5 to 10 gallons) out of the bottom of your hot water heater and let it refill with chlorinated water so bacteria in the warm tank are sterilized.

Step 4: Hold for 12 to 24 hours of contact time¶

Leave the chlorinated water sitting undisturbed inside the well casing, pressure tank, and all household pipes for at least 12 hours, and ideally 24 hours overnight. Do not use any water during this contact window. Inspect the rubber gasket on your well cap and reinstall the cap securely on the wellhead.

Step 5: Flush the well outdoors (Never into your septic tank) and re-test¶

1. Never drain 200-ppm shock-chlorinated well water down indoor sinks or toilets into a private septic system. Flooding your septic tank with hundreds of liters of super-chlorinated water will kill the beneficial anaerobic bacteria inside your septic tank and dump huge hydraulic volumes that ruin your drainfield.
2. Instead, run a long garden hose from an outdoor faucet out to a gravel driveway, ditch, or flat lawn area located at least 15 to 30 meters (50 to 100 feet) away from any creek, pond, fish stream, septic drainfield, or prized garden plants (high chlorine is lethal to fish and frogs).
3. Turn on the outdoor hose at a moderate flow rate (watch your pressure gauge to make sure you do not pump the well dry; cycle the hose 30 minutes on, 30 minutes off if your well has a low recovery rate) until the strong chlorine smell disappears outdoors.
4. Finally, open your indoor faucets for 5 to 10 minutes each to clear the small amount of chlorinated water remaining inside the house pipes, reinstall clean sediment and carbon filters, take your water softener off bypass, and continue boiling drinking water until a certified water laboratory tests a sample taken 7 to 14 days later and confirms zero Coliform and zero E. coli bacteria.

Protecting your well from winter freezing and wildfire damage¶

• Preventing winter wellhouse and pressure switch freeze-ups: Even if your submersible pump sits 60 meters underground, an uninsulated wellhouse or cold crawl space will freeze the narrow 6-millimeter (¼-inch) pipe nipple under your pressure switch solid at 0 degrees Celsius (32 degrees Fahrenheit). Because the frozen ice plug traps a 50-psi pressure reading inside the switch diaphragm, the switch never knows your house is out of water, or conversely locks the pump ON until the PVC pipe bursts. Always insulate pressure tank piping, keep a thermostatically controlled utility heater or heat tape on exposed wellhouse pipes, and never use an open-flame propane torch to thaw PVC or polyethylene well pipes.
• After a wildfire passes over your property: Intense radiant heat from a grass or forest fire frequently melts above-ground PVC well vents, burns pump control wiring, and causes negative pressure in water lines that sucks toxic benzene, toluene, and styrene vapors from melted plastic pipes into your groundwater system. After a wildfire, do not drink or shower in well water even if the water looks clear; have a certified laboratory perform a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) scan for benzene alongside a bacterial test before resuming use.

Fesili e fai soo¶

Punavai ua siaki¶

• United States Environmental Protection Agency (US EPA): Private Drinking Water Wells, What to Do With Your Private Well After a Flood, and Emergency Disinfection of Drinking Water protocols.
• Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC, United States): Well Testing, Disinfecting Wells After an Emergency (Shock Chlorination), and Nitrate / Methemoglobinemia Prevention in Private Wells.
• National Ground Water Association (NGWA, United States / International): Well Owner's Guide (WellOwner.org) covering submersible vs. jet pump diagnostics, pressure tank drawdown maintenance, drought management, and wildfire benzene contamination alerts.
• Health Canada (Canada): Be Well Aware: Information for Private Well Owners and Guidance on Waterborne Bacterial Pathogens and Nitrate/Nitrite in Residential Well Supplies.
• Drinking Water Inspectorate (DWI, United Kingdom) and UK Health Security Agency (UKHSA): Private Water Supplies: Technical Guidance on Risk Assessment, Borehole Headworks Protection, and Disinfection.
• Penn State Extension and University of Minnesota Extension (United States): Shock Chlorination of Wells and Springs and hydraulic pressure tank / pressure switch troubleshooting bulletins.

Taiala fa'atatau¶

• Fa'aaliga saogalemu o le vai ma fa'apuna
• Septic system faaletonu ma faaleoleo
• Pepa eletise
• Lologa