Falnde Glacier Crevasse, nanngugol hoore mum e ax Ice, e hisnude ekipaaji ɓoggi¶

Punndi e nder ponto nees suuɗiiɗo e nder ŋoral luggiɗngal e dow tufnde Rainier, Denali, Mont Blanc, Bugaboos, walla Alpes Sud ko dogdu e waktuuji tati gonɗi e sahaa gooto: Impact & Trauma Penndulum e nder lewru, **Hipotermi Conductive & Convective de.3s degree a Fahrenheit) ɓuuɓri glaas ndi ɓuuɓri mum ɓuri famɗude e les, e Sindrome de suspension (Intolérance à la pendant de l’harnais orthostatique) so tawii alpinist mo anndaaka walla mo ŋakkiraaka ina fawii e dow ŋoral jooɗorde ko ɓuri 15 haa 30 minit tawi ƴiiƴam ina ɓuuɓtoo e koyɗe mum en. So tawii ardotooɗo walla gollodiiɗo ekipaaji ɓoggol caggal yanii e gite rewrude e ponto nees, gollodiiɗo dow oo ina jogii ko famɗi fof 1,5 leƴƴannde hade ɓoggol ngol yahde bar-tight ngam werlaade teddeendi ɓanndu maɓɓe e dow piɗtaali maɓɓe ice ax e nder Self-Arrest Position. So tawii faɗo ngoo waɗii, ekipaaji dowri ɗii ina poti mahde ankere nees walla ice mo bommbooji ɗii mbaawata, ndartina teddeendi maayndi ndii e dow ankere ndee e dow jolngo ngoo, paddo lip crevasse ngam ɓoggol ngol jolnaa ngol yiyataa vitim 1,5 meeteer (5 feet) luggiɗde e nder the and the ƴeeŋtu hoore maa walla ƴettude ɗe e huutoraade 3:1 C-Pulley / Z-Pulley (C+Z = 6:1) system nafoore mekanik.

So tawii alpinist yanii e ŋoral ngal jolnaaka, ngal ɓuuɓnaama e ŋoral ɓuuɓngal, walla ngal jaabaaki e nder ŋoral, uddit Satellite SOS ɗoon e ɗoon e dow maa Garmin inReach, 406 MHz PLB, walla iPhone Satellite SOS, walla noddu limoore emergency alpine nokku maa (911 to leyɗeele dentuɗe Amerik e Kanadaa, 112 e nder Dental Orop fof, 1414 ngam REGA to leydi Siwis, 999 e nder leydi Angalteer) walla ƴeewto regginorde amen hakkunde leyɗeele limooje caɗtuɗe ɗoon e ɗoon. Huutoro nanngugol ɗoon e ɗoon, jolngo ankere, e ittugol laabi les ɗii.

Waɗde ɗum jooni¶

1. Werlo hoore maa e nder Ice Axe Self-Arrest Position e sahaa nde gollodiiɗo ekipaaji ɓoggol fiyi e nder ponto nees (walla wullaango "FALLING" so tawii ko aan woni mo njippii): Nanngu hoore axe ice (piolet) e junngo wooto dow adze e junngo ngoɗngo e dow ŋoral les ŋoral, ɓuuɓna e dow reedu maa fa’de e ŋoral ŋoral, dogdu ŋoral njamndi ngal e nder nees hee sara ɓalndu maa tawa aɗa jogii koppi maa crampon ina ƴetta UP e nees oo (waɗde crampon yeeso-toɓɓe e nder nees tiiɗɗo,pultchta yours at koppi), e jogaade jolɗe e dow nees haa dille dartoo.
2. So aɗa fawi hakkille e nder ŋoral, ɗoon e ɗoon ƴettu saak maa tedduɗo oo e dow ŋoral maa belay loop, naata e nder ŋoral maa Foot Prusik Loop ngam haɗde mboros Suspension Syndrome: Fawde mo alaa ko dillata e teddeendi ɓanndu maa timmundi + saak maa 18 kiloo (40-pound) pressug maa ƴiiƴam ƴiiƴam ngam poolgude e koyɗe maa (Suspension Trauma), ina waawi addande neɗɗo sinkope e ɓuuɓri ɓernde e nder hojomaaji 15 haa 30. Ɗoon e ɗoon, ƴettu Foot Prusik / Tibloc / Micro Traxion sling maa mo njiyloto-ɗaa oo, e dow ŋoral dow ŋoral maa ngal, ndaro-ɗaa e ŋoral koyɗe ngam pompirde ƴiye koyɗe maa, njippinaa saak maa e dow ŋoral tether ngam ngal ŋoŋɗi les koyɗe maa.
3. So tawii ko aan woni hisnoowo jogiiɗo faɗo e dow leydi, mah Snow Picket (T-Slot walla Vertical Mid-Clip) walla ankere Ice Screw ADDA tawa a woppaani jolngo: Jokku teddeendi ɓanndu maa ankere ɓoggol ngol e nokku ɗo njiyloto-ɗaa ɗoo, tawa aɗa yettoo e jolngo maa e junngo wooto ngam riiwtude Piket Nees (e nder névé/nees tiiɗɗo) walla Vis hip (e carabicking ice glacial blue) caggal walla c Hitch (Autoblock, Klemheist, walla Prusik)** walla Micro Traxion gila e ankere ndee haa e ɓoggol gonngol e ŋorol ngol, e seeɗa seeɗa inch yeeso haa ankere ndee ƴetta 100% e teddeendi ŋorol ngol e ŋoral maa.
4. WOTO MEƊƊU yahde haa to daande leppi ɓuuɓɗi ɗii UNBELAYED: Pontooji nees ina njuuti e ŋoral ɓuuɓngal goongawal fotde meeteruuji 1 haa 3 (3 haa 10 feet) banngeeji ɗiɗi ɗii fof. Waɗde sahaa kala, jokku e taƴde e nder ankara ɗiɗaɓo baɗaaɗo e loop belay maa keeriiɗo e ƴeewndaade nees oo kala santimeeteeruuji 30 (12 inch) e ŋoral maa ice ax walla ŋoral avalanche nde njirlotoɗaa haa e leppi.
5. Pad lip crevasse e shaft axe ice, picket nees, ski, walla backpack KO ADDI ngam jolnude: So a fawii ɓoggol glacier 9-milimeeteer jolngol e dow lip nees softuɗo tawa padding, ɓoggol ngol maa taƴ ɗoon e ɗoon 1 haa 2 meeteer (3 haa 6 the cheesep e nder meeteeruuji 3 haa 6 the cheesep ("renching"), jamminde hoore e juuɗe ñawɗo oo to bannge ŋoral nees gonngal dow ngal mbele ɓe mbaawa heɓde dow ŋoral.
6. Suɓo feere ɓurnde yaawde ngam ittude ngonka ñawɗo oo (Drop-Loop 2:1, Fixed-Rope Self-Ascent, walla 3:1 / 6:1 Z-Pulley): So tawii alpiniste dogɗo oo alaa ko bonnata, ina anndi, jippinde Bight of Rope (Drop-Loop) koolaaɗo e karabiner e dow ŋoral maɓɓe ina addana ɓe 2:1 haul ɗoon e ɗoon ɗo ɓe mballirta ƴeeŋtude koye maɓɓe dow e nder hojomaaji 3, walla ɓe mbaawa ƴeeŋtude e ɓoggol tabitngol ngol e huutoraade Chests + Foot maɓɓe. Koolaaɗo kuuɓal 3:1 Z-Pulley walla 6:1 Drop-Loop + Z-Pulley wonande yahooɓe e dow ŋoral, ɓe nganndaa, walla ɓe ŋakkiraaka.

Lekki kuulal : gila e nanngugol fall crevasse haa e ƴettugol dow¶

Rewrude e ndee ɗoo nate kisnugol alpine kuutorteeɗe e ardotooɓe koɗli IFMGA / AMGA e kippuuji kisnugol koɗli ngenndiiji:

flowchart TD
    Fall["Alpiniste Ɓoornii Pont Nees E nder Crevasse"] --> Arrest["1. Goomu dowri ina waɗa ɗoon e ɗoon Ice Axe Naatde e hoore mum (Crampon Feet UP) & Jogaade Teddeendi"]
    Arrest --> VictimAct["2. E nder sahaa gooto e nder Crevasse: Ɓooyɗo ina naata e koyɗe Prusik Loop ngam haɗde jokkere enɗam & ina lesɗina Pack e dow Tether"]
    VictimAct --> Anchor["3. Hisnoowo ina mahi Ankere adannde (Piket nees / Vis ice) & ina wayla jolngo ɓoggol e laawol jokkere enɗam / nanngugol yahrude yeeso"]
    Anchor --> Backup["4. Dandoowo Doggi Belay, Mahi Back-Up 2nd Anchor (2-Toɓɓe Fotde), & ɓadtii Lip on Belay Nde Sondi"]
    Backup --> Pad["5. Pad Crevasse Lip (Axe / Piket / Ski / Pack) & Ƴeewtaade ngonka ñawɗo"]
    Pad --> Cond{"6. Mbele alpinoowo dogɗo oo ina anndi, alaa ko bonnata, ina waawi wallude?"}
    Cond -->|"Eey: Annduɗo & Mo alaa ko bonnata"| Fast["Cuɓal A: Jaɓɓaaɗo oo ina ƴetta hoore mum ɓoggol tabitngol huutoraade Prusiks Waist + Foot<br/>Cuɓal B: Jippinde ɓoggol Bight to Harness Jaɓɓaaɗo ngam Yaawde 2:1 Drop-Loop Haul"]
    Cond -->|"Alaa: Gañaaɗo, Anndaaka, walla Ɓooyɗo"| Haul["Rig 3:1 Z-Pulley (2-3 Hisnooɓe e dow leydi) WALLA 6:1 Pulley C+Z (1 Hisnoowo gooto e dow leydi)"]
    Fast --> Lip["7. Wallude Dow Lip Crevasse Padded -> Woɗɗitaade nokku Haɓɓondirɗo -> Safrude Hipotermiya Horizontal"]
    Haul --> Lip

Faandaare 1: Dartinde doggol glacier (Mekanik nanngugol hoore mum & nanngugol ekipaaji Ice Axe)¶

Ko adii nde mbaɗata koyngal e dow ŋoral ɓuuɓngal, kala tergal e fedde ɓoggol ina foti yahde e zero slack (ɓoggol ɓoggol hakkunde ɓoggol ngol ina woɗɗi 10 haa 15 meeter / 33 haa 50 meeteer hakkunde mum en), ina jogii jokkondiral ɗiɗi (walla a Micro Traxion + Tibloc) ina taƴaa e harness mum en, e jogaade feggere mum en ice e nder Self-Arrest Grip (juumre dow hoore e ɓuuɓri les adze, pick toɓɓere caggal e nder piolet-canne).

1. Ko 4-Step gooto gooto Ice Axe ngam nanngude hoore mum¶

So tawii aɗa ƴakka e dow ŋoral nees ɓuuɓngal e hoore maa walla aɗa ƴakka yeeso e koyɗe maa e sehil maa faddotooɗo e ŋoral yeeso maa, waɗ ɗeen dille nayi e nder leƴƴannde wootere : 1. Janngugol juuɗe ɗiɗi e dow Axe: - Juuɗe dow: Nanngu hoore feggere ice ndee no feewi dow dow adze/shaft junction ngam njamndi ndii pick ina toɗɗii caggal/les feewde e nees (juuɗe maa ina kaɗa adze tiiɗɗo oo fiyde yeeso maa). - Juuɗe les: Nanngu les ŋoral ŋoral dow ŋoral ferrule/spike. 2. Pull Ax Tight Diagonally E dow Ɓoornugol Ma: - Sokkit hoore feggere ndee dow tan e yeeso baagal maa nder (baagal ngal bannge piɗtaali), tawa jokkorgal ngal ina doga e dow ɓalndu maa haa e hip maa gonɗo bannge. Hoto meeɗ ɗaccude hoore feggere ndee ina yalta e junngo maa ɗo ɓuuɓol nees ngol ɓuuɓnata ɗum e junngo maa (chicken-winging). 3. Roll Faade Pick Side Onto Reedu Ma (Hoore Dow): - Waɗde sahaa kala ƴettu to bannge mo piɗtaali ɗii ngoni e dow mum (ƴeewndoɗaa e piɗtaali ɗii ina njaltina ƴulɓe ɗee e juuɗe maa). - So tawii a ɓuuɓnaama dow (hoore-arannde les ŋoral), ɓuuɓna ŋoral ŋoral e nder nees oo yalta e bannge maa no pivot toɓɓere ngam ɓuuɓnude koyɗe maa caggal les hade maa diwde pick in. 4. Arch ɓaawo maa, Drive Teddeendi Dow Baagal Ma/Pick, e LIFT CRAMPON FEET UP: - KUULAL TEŊKUNGAL NDE ƁOORƊAA KARAMPON: So a ɓoorniima karampon njamndi e dow paɗe maa, ɓurtu koppi maa ngam jogaade ƴiye krampon maa 30 santimeeteer (12 inch) DOOWO e weeyo e dow nees tawa aɗa ɓuuɓna koppi maa e koyɗe maa e nder ŋoral. Doggol toɓɓe 12 crampon njamndi e nder névé tiiɗɗo tawa aɗa diwa e 25 kiloomeeteer e waktu (15 mph) ɗoon e ɗoon ina hoota bootooji maa, ina ɓuuɓna tibia/fibula maa walla ina ɓuuɓna ma caggal dow hoore maa e dow wutte maa. - Yaajnude koppi maa ngam dartaade e toɓɓude teddeendi ɓalndu maa e koyngal maa seeɗa seeɗa e tiiɗnaare les e dow hoore feggere ice nde piilngal njamndi ngal ina ɓuuɓna ɓuuɓri luggiɗndi haa ngartaa e darnde maaynde.

Fase 2: Ko foti waɗeede so tawii ko AN woni alpiniste gonɗo e nder crevasse¶

So a punndii e ponto nees, a 6uuccii haa 6ooyi, a fawii e dow 6oggi 5 haa 20 meeteer (16 haa 65 meeteer) les e nder geec glacial blue, sehilaa6e maa dow mbaawaa nande ma laa6cfo e leppi nees 6ooycfi. Ko mbaɗata e nder hojomaaji 3 gadani ɗii ina haɗa sinkope suspension, hipotermi, e taƴgol ɓoggi :

Ɗatal 1: Ƴettu Harness Leg-Strap Tampere ɗoon e ɗoon (Haɗde Trauma Suspension)¶

So a fawii e dow ŋoral, loope koyɗe ɗee ina ɓuuɓna ƴiiƴam femoral e nder reedu maa, koyɗe maa ina ŋoŋɗi tawa aɗa diwa tawa aɗa jogii "pompe musculaire" skeletal no woorunoo, ɓuuɓnata ƴiiƴam ƴiiƴam ɗam haa dow ɓernde maa. E nder hojomaaji 15 haa 30 (walla ko ɓuri yaawde so a ɓoorniima saak tedduɗo), haa 20% e ƴiiƴam maa cirƴam ɗam ina ɓuuɓtoo e nder koyɗe maa les, ina addana ɗum ustaade no feewi e nder ɓernde maa, majjude hakkille (Orthostatic Suspension Syncope for your fatal), e 1. Tappu e nder Loop Koyngal maa (Foot Prusik / Runner) e nder leƴƴanɗe 60: Kala yahoowo e glacier ina foti yahde e prusik waist e njuuteendi 120-cm (48-inch) foot-loop prusik ko adii nde taƴaa e ɓoggol (walla fawii ko e dow loop geɗe harness maɓɓe). Jokkondira prusik koyngal e ɓoggol ƴeeŋgol dow jokkorgal maa limre-go’aare, ɓuuɓna boowal maa e nder loop les, darto-ɗaa e koyngal gootal walla ɗiɗi kala leƴƴanɗe 30 ngam ɓuuɓnude ƴiye maa e ƴiye koyɗe maa e ustude ɓuuɓri ɓalndu. 2. So a alaa loop koyɗe: Ƴettu koppi ɗiɗi ɗii fof toowɗi feewde e ɓalndu maa (Joɗnde / Fetal Position) walla ɓuuɓnu toɓɓe crampon maa no moƴƴi e dow ŋoral ice (tawa a taƴaani ɓoggol ngol) ngam ittude teddeendi e ƴiye maa femoral. 3. Uddit saak maa tedduɗo oo e dow loop tether: Saak ekspedisiyoŋ kiloo 15 haa 25 (33 haa 55 kiloo) ina fooɗa ɓanndu maa toowndu nduu caggal (ina ɓuuɓna ma dow so a ɓoornaaki wutte ɓaleejo) ina ɓeyda teddeendi mawndi so tawii sehilaaɓe maa ina poti jolnude ma. Clip karabin coktirgal e 120-cm (48-inch) dyneema sling gila e harness belay loop maa haa e haul loop saak maa, loowde jokkere enɗam, e ɓuuɓnude jokkere enɗam nde haa nde fawa les koyɗe maa gila e jokkere enɗam maa (woto meeɗ jippinde jokkere enɗam maa e nder les ɓuuɓri, nde tawnoo ina jogii insulation maa e ekstra gear).

Ɗatal 2: Pewjanɗe ngam ƴeeŋtude hoore maa e ɓoggol tabitngol ("Prusiking / Siistem Kick Texas")¶

So tawii a gaañaani, aɗa nana ɓoggol dow ngol ina yaha ina darii haa laaɓi fotde hojomaaji 3 haa 5 (ɗum firti ko gollodiiɗo maa e dow leydi oo mahii ankere, o waɗti teddeendi maa e dow mayre), peewnit ngam ƴeeŋtude e ɓoggol ngol e hoore maa tawa aɗa huutoroo Two-Prusik / Ascender System :

      [Anchored Climbing Rope Above]
                   |
         +---------+---------+
         | UPPER ASCENDER    |  <-- 1. Waist / Chest Prusik (3-Wrap Prusik,
         | (Waist / Chest)   |         Autoblock, or Petzl Micro Traxion)
         +---------+---------+         Clipped short to Harness Belay Loop
                   |
         +---------+---------+
         | LOWER ASCENDER    |  <-- 2. Foot Prusik (5-6mm Cord or Petzl Tibloc)
         | (Foot Loop Sling) |         Connected to a 120cm Foot Stirrup Sling
         +---------+---------+         (AND backed up to Belay Loop for safety)
                   |
         [Tie-In Figure-8 Knot] --> Re-clip dynamic rope bight every 3 meters

1. Jooɗto e dow Prusik maa Toowɗo (Waist) mbele ina ɓuuɓtoo e dow ɓoggol ngol ina jogoo teddeendi ɓanndu maa.
2. Slide Prusik maa les (Koyngal) UP ɓoggol haa les tan prusik waist, ɓuuɓnu koppi maa toowɗi feewde e ɓanndu maa.
3. Darto-ɗaa dow e dow Foot Loop maa (pusgol e ƴiye koyɗe maa tiiɗɗe, meeɗaa ɓuuɓnude e juuɗe maa), kadi no ŋoral maa ummortoo nii, ƴettu Upper (Waist) Prusik maa UP dow ɓoggol ngol, njooɗto-ɗaa e dow maggol.
4. Backup kisal doole nde njahataa: Nde njahataa e dow ŋoral, ŋoral mawngal ŋoral ŋoral ŋoral ɓuuɓngal ina ŋoŋɗi les maa. Kala meeteruuji 2 haa 3 (6 haa 10 meeteer), jolnu jokkol Figure-Eight-on-a-Bight e nder jolngo les maa, jolnu ɗum e loop belay harness maa e karabiner coktirgal mbele so jolngo prusik meeɗii ɓuuɓde walla ɓuuɓde, a meeɗaa waasde fawde mi ko ɓuri 2.
5. Taƴde Leppi Nees Ɓoornuɗi (The Crux): Sabu teddeendi maa fawi ɓoggol ngol haa juuti e nder leppi nees softuɗi dow maa, ɓuuɓri maa prusik maa jam haa e nder mahol nees to leppi ɗii. Darto 1 meeter les leppi, yetto dow leppi ngam aawde ax maa luggiɗde e nder nees dow crevasse, walla clip e nder seertuɗo loop ɓoggol juutngol / ɓoggol ngol teddaaka jippinaa e dow padded ax shaft e gollodiiɗo maa e dow, wa crace maa on andllt toowɗo e nder glaas.

Faandaare 3 : Porotokol hisnoowo dow leydi (Mahngo ankere, jolnude jolngo, e rigginde jolngo)¶

So tawii ko dow leydi aɗa jogii teddeendi sehil maa dogɗo oo e nder mbaydi nanngugol hoore maa, woto hul kadi woto eto daraade e junngo-dow-juŋngo ɓuuɓnude 90 kiloo (200-pound) e dow ŋoral nees : ɓuuɓol ɓoggol nder ŋoral nees ngol ina ɓeyda ɗum e nder teemedere (percentage) to **300 ina ƴetta ko ina ɓura 200 kiloo (440 kiloo) doole dow ngam nawde 80 kiloo e dow ŋoral nees ngal alaa ko ɓuuɓnata. Rewtu ndee ɗoo doggol hisnude 5-ɓaawoore:

Ɗatal 1: Mahde Ankere Nees walla Ice Bombproof Nde Jogaaki Fall¶

So aɗa jogii ɓanndu maa les e nder mbaydi nanngugol hoore maa jogaade ɓoggol tiiɗngol, yetto harness maa e junngo maa ɓuuɓngo e mahde Anchor Transfer Primary maa ko caggal maa walla sara maa tuugnaade e ngonka dow glacier:

Ɗatal 2: Waylude Teddeendi Ɓiɗɗo oo gila e Harness maa haa e Anker ("Dogde e Belay")¶

1. Ɗaɓɓu sling dognoowo ankere gila e Snow Picket walla Ice Screw maa keso mo mbaɗ-ɗaa oo, haa e karabiner coktirɗo yeeso harness maa.
2. Siɓɓu Prusik 3-Wrap**, Klemheist, walla Haɓɓugol jokkere enɗam Autoblock (kuufgol ɓoggol 5-mm haa 7-mm, ɓoggol Dyneema ngol meeɗaa ɓuuɓde ngol ɓuuɓnata e dow ɓoggi ɓuuɓɗi) e sara ɓoggol gonngol e yeeso maa ngol, WALLA Ɓoornugol Microtzl pulley dow ɓoggol tiiɗngol, e ɓuuɓnude ɗum e nder karabiner coktirgal ankere.
3. Push hitch friction (walla Micro Traxion) no fotiri yeeso les ɓoggol tiiɗngol feewde e ŋoral no junngo maa waawi yettaade.
4. Seese-seese, ƴettu ɓanndu maa yeeso 15 santimeeteer (6 inch) les ŋoral: ƴeew piket/vis ankere oo no moƴƴi no jolngo ngoo ɓuuɓtortoo e no ɓuuɓtortoo 100% e teddeendi gonɗo e ŋorol maa ngol e dow ŋorol ngol.
5. So tawii jolngo ƴeeŋngo hakkunde jolngo maa e jolngo jolngo ngo yahrii haa laaɓi, jokkondira e jolngo maa jolngo ngoo, jolnu ngo e karabiner ankere mbele aɗa jokki e jolnude, caggal ɗuum jolnu walla jolnu aSed-Ud so ina haani mahde Ankere 1 meeter caggal ankere adannde ndee.

Ɗatal 3: Ɓadto e Pad Lip Crevasse e Kisal¶

1. Taƴu loop belay maa keeriiɗo e nder ɓoggol ɓurngol heewde (ankere e ankere backed-up) rewrude e jokkere friction ngam a waawa fadde e nder crevasse e hoore maa so leppi ɗii njippiima.
2. Sonde nees yeeso maa e ƴulɓe maa ice ax shaft walla sonde avalanche nde njirlotoɗaa haa e daande maa haa njiytoɗaa koɗorɗe nees tiiɗɗe goongaaje vs.
3. Lay Lip Padding les laawol ɓoggol: Ƴeewto Axe Ice, Picket Nees, Ski, walla Foam Sleeping Pad / Backpack gonɗo dow e dow ŋorol ŋorol ngol ngam ŋorol gonngol ngol ina ɓuuɓtoo no feewi e dow njamndi tiiɗndi insteep / fabric jooni
4. Wulla laaɓɗo dow e sehil maa: "AƊA WONI ƁURI? AƊA WAAWA WAƊDE ƊAƊƊAARE WALAA ƳETTUDE LOOP TOƊƊO?"

Ɗatal 4: Mahngo 3 Siistem Haul Nafoore Mekanik (2:1 Drop-Loop, 3:1 Z-Pulley, be 6:1 C+Z Pulley)¶

Yerondirde e rig system haul moƴƴo ngam mawnugol ekipaaji maa e ngonka ñawɗo oo:

               3:1 Z-PULLEY (Z-DRAG) SCHEMATIC ON GLACIER SURFACE

  [Backed-Up Snow/Ice Anchor]
              |
              +---> [Progress-Capture Pulley / Ratchet Prusik]
                              /                 \
        (Load Strand to      /                   \  (Redirected Haul Strand)
         Crevasse Lip)      /                     \
                           v                       v
                 [Tractor Prusik + Pulley] <--------+
                  (Slide Forward Toward Lip to Reset)
                          /
                         /  <--- RESCUERS PULL THIS TAIL UP THE GLACIER (3:1)
                        v
            ======================== (Padded Crevasse Lip: Ice Axe / Ski)
                        |
                        v
               [Fallen Climber]

Faandaare 4 : Ittugol ñawɗo oo dow leppi e toppitagol safaara ngam ñawu Suspension & Hypothermie¶

1. Wallude Ɓiɗɗo oo e dow meeteer cakkitiiɗo to Lip:
2. Meeteer cakkitiiɗo oo to bannge ñaamo to leppi crevasse ko ɗo gaañanɗe e jammaaji haul mbaɗata sabu ɓalndu walla nofru ñawɗo oo ina fiytoo padding leppi ɗii.
3. So tawii aɗa jogii hisnooɓe ɗiɗo e dow leydi, waɗde hisnoowo gooto (securely belayed to the anchor) ƴaañii e leppi padded, tos seertuɗo juutɗo Hand-Loop Sling les ngam alpiniste oo nannga, walla yettoo les ngam ardude harness maɓɓe knot dow padded ax shaft not do it do it.
4. Toppitagol safaara caggal hisnude (Position horizontal ngam ustude mboros e caggal mboros core):
5. So tawii alpiniste oo ƴettitaama meeteruuji 5 (16 feet) caggal gila e ŋoral, naati e nokku kisal ƴeewndaaɗo :
   • So tawii alpiniste oo ina fawi e nder harness mum en ko ɓuri hojomaaji 15 haa 20 WALLA ina diwta no feewi / lethargic: Waɗde ɓe ngona e ŋoral / ŋoral (walla seeɗa semi-recumbent so tawii ko ɓe annduɓe e dyspneic, ɓe mbayla no feewi e ŋoral dow paam e dow) insulated ɓe ɗoon e ɗoon. Hono no ɓuuɓgol ndiyam ngulɗam nii, gartugol ɗoon e ɗoon ƴiiƴam ngulɗam, asid, keewɗam potaasiyom, mooftaaɗam e koyɗe les (Afterdrop e Reperfusion) ina waawi jibinde aritmiiji ventrikulaar so tawii ko ko moƴƴaani.
   • Insulate ɗe e nees glacier huutoraade kala saak e foam ɗanngal e nder fedde nde, mbaɗa ɗe e nder ɓuuɓri hipotermi (dow parka + saak ɗanngal + saak bivy / barrière vapeur blanket spatial), e rewde men ladde hipotermi e njillu nguurndam e nguleeki e ñawu toowngu (AMS, HAPE, HACE) njillu.

Naamne keewɗe naamneede¶

Hol ko waɗi aɗa foti jogaade koyɗe maa dow e weeyo so aɗa waɗa self-arrest axe ice tawa aɗa ɓoornii crampons ?¶

So aɗa lummboo e dow nees glacial tiiɗɗo walla ice e njaaweeki mawki tawa aɗa ɓoornii karampooji njamndi toɓɓe 10 walla 12, accude koyɗe maa walla paɗe maa ina mema nees oo ina addana ƴiye njamndi tiiɗɗe ɗee nanngude ɗoon e ɗoon no ŋoral ŋoral nii. So wonaa dartinde ma e kisal, nanngude toɓɓere crampon e njaaweeki maa ɓuuɓnu koyngal maa e tibia (fracture alpine spiral classique) walla ɓuuɓna ɓanndu maa lesru dow hoore maa e nder ɓuuɓri caggal, ɓuuɓna ɓuuɓri ƴiiƴam e juuɗe maa. Bending koppi maa ngam crampons maa heddoo 30 santimeeteer (12 inch) e dow nees tawa aɗa ɓuuɓna koppi maa, koyɗe maa, e ice axe pick e nder ŋoral ina hokka ma ɓuuɓri, jokkondire.

Hol ko woni mboros harness suspension (syndrome de suspension) nder ɓuuɓri e hol no ɗum haɗirtee ?¶

Sindoron suspension (orthostatic harness hang intolerance) ina waɗa so tawii alpinist ina fawii e dow ŋoral jooɗorde, koyɗe mum ina ŋoŋɗi les mum : ŋoral koyɗe ina ɓuuɓna ƴiye femoral e nder reedu, tawi noon ŋoral ina ɓuuɓna haa 20 e nder teemedere ƴiiƴam ɓalndu ina yahra e les leggal to ɓernde. E nder hojomaaji 15 haa 30, yaltugol ɓernde ina ustoo no feewi, ina addana neɗɗo ɓuuɓde, ɓuuɓde, e ɓuuɓde, ina waawi kadi warde neɗɗo, walla ɓuuɓde ɓernde so tawii laawol henndu gonnduɗo e neɗɗo mo anndaaka oo ina famɗi. Aɗa waawi haɗde ɗum ɗoon e ɗoon so a taƴii sling Foot Prusik e dow ŋoral ŋoral dow ŋoral maa, aɗa darii e ŋoral koyɗe kala leƴƴanɗe 30 ngam pompirde ƴiye koyɗe maa e ittude ɓuuɓri e ŋoral ŋoral maa.

Mbele aɗa foti huutoraade 2:1 drop-loop walla 3:1 Z-pulley ngam yaltinde neɗɗo e nder ɓuuɓri?¶

So tawii dogdu nduu ina anndi, alaa ko bonnata, kadi aɗa jogii ɓoggol keewngol e dow leydi ngam yettaade les e maɓɓe, 2:1 Drop-Loop (C-pulley) ɓuri yaawde e hoybude : aɗa waawi tan jippinde bight ɓoggol e karabiner coktirgal ngam ɓoggol ngol loowa dow, vitim fixp belay the harness you belay the harness pull dow e dow jolngo haul, aɗa heɓa nafoore 4:1 moƴƴere e zero resets hakkunde haul. Kono so tawii alpiniste dogɗo oo ina anndaa, ina jogii junngo walla ƴiye taƴɗe, walla a alaa ɓoggol keewngol e dow leydi ngam jippinde loowdi e maɓɓe, aɗa foti mahde 3:1 Z-Pulley (walla 6:1 compound system) to bannge jolngo jolngo asliijo.

Fuɗɗoode ƴeewtaama¶

• Fedde winndereere fedde toppitiinde ko fayti e koye (IFMGA / UIAGM) & Fedde Ameriknaare Ardiiɓe Koɗli (AMGA): Deftere Alpine & Ski: Diɗɗal ekipaaji ɓoggi glacier, Piket nees & Ankereeji vis ice, Doggol Belay, e 2:1 / 3:1 / 6:1 Siistemaaji Haul Crevasse.
• Komisariyaa hakkunde leyɗeele ngam hisnude Alpine (ICAR Komisoŋ safaara, ICAR MEDCOM): Laabi nanondiral ko faati e haɓaade e safrude ñawu nguu (Pathologie de l’Harness Hang) e Hipotermi glacial e nder aksidaaji Crevasse.
• Koɗliiji: Koɗki: Ndimaagu koɗli (10e édition), Faandaare 16 (Njaɓɓugol nees e nanngugol hoore mum e ax ice) e Faandaare 17 (Jaɓɓugol glacier e hisnude Crevasse).
• Duɗal karallaagal Petzl: Deftere karallaagal yah-ngartaa e hisnude ƴiye (Micro Traxion Progress-Capture Hauling, Rigging Tractor Tibloc, e Ustugol Ɓooygol dow Leppi).
• Sarwiis Park ngenndiijo leyɗeele dentuɗe Amerik (NPS, Reennooɓe ƴeeŋtugol tufnde Rainier & Denali): Protokolle ladde kisal e ƴettugol tufɗe glacier e ƴettugol crevasse.

Ardiiɓe jokkondirɓe¶

• Hipotermiya ladde, ɓuuɓri-ɓuuɓri, e ɓuuɓri
• Ñawu toowngu : AMS, HAPE, e HACE anndinde e jippaade
• Ski, snowboard, e wuurde e nder leydi caggal leydi
• Aksidaaji ƴeeŋtugol kaaƴe e bouldering, dogdu belay, e trauma suspension
• Limooje emergency e leydi