Skip to content

ʻO Glacier Crevasse Fall, Ice Axe Self-Lapo, a me Rope Team Rescue

He ʻokoʻa nā helu ulia pōpilikia ma ka ʻāina. Hoʻohana kēia ʻaoʻao i ka 911, ka helu no ʻAmelika a me Kanada. Nui nā ʻāina ʻē aʻe i hoʻohana i ka 112, 999, a i ʻole ka helu ʻē aʻe. E huli i ka helu no kou ʻāina.

ʻO ke kuʻi ʻana ma kahi alahaka hau huna i loko o kahi ʻāwīwī hohonu ma ka mauna ʻo Rainier, Denali, Mont Blanc, nā Bugaboos, a i ʻole nā Southern Alps he heihei me ʻekolu mau uaki like ʻole: Impact & Pendulum Trauma i ka wā hāʻule, Conductive & Convective Hypothermia i loko o ka 0 degere Celsius (32 degere Fahrenheit e emi iho ana ma lalo o ka hau i lalo. ʻO Syndrome (Orthostatic Harness Hang Intolerance)** inā ʻaʻole ʻoniʻoni ka mea piʻi ʻike ʻole a luhi paha i loko o ke kaula noho no ka ʻoi aku ma mua o 15 a 30 mau minuke ʻoiai e kahe ana ke koko ma ko lākou mau wāwae. Ke hāʻule ka mea piʻi alakaʻi a i ʻole ka hoa hui kaula hope ma kahi alahaka hau, ʻoi aku ka liʻiliʻi o ka hoa i luna ma lalo o 1.5 kekona ma mua o ka paʻa ʻana o ke kaula e hoʻolei i ko lākou kaumaha kino ma ke koʻi hau ma ka Self-Arrest Position. Ke paʻa ka hāʻule ʻana, pono ka hui ʻili e kūkulu i ka hau a i ʻole heleuma hau, e hoʻoneʻe i ke kaumaha make o ka mea i pepehi ʻia mai ko lākou ʻauamo ponoʻī ma luna o ka heleuma ma o ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana, e hoʻopaʻa i ka lehelehe puʻupuʻu i ʻike ʻole ke kaula i hoʻokomo ʻia i 1.5 mika (5 kapuaʻi) hohonu i loko o ka cornice hau, a e hoʻokuʻu i kahi puka lou no ka mea i pepehi ʻia e hoʻokuʻu iā lākou iho i waho o C / Pulley- C+Z = 6:1) ʻōnaehana pono mīkini.

Inā hāʻule ka mea piʻi i loko o ka lua ʻaʻole i kaulaʻi ʻia, ua wili ʻia i loko o kahi hau hau haiki, a i ʻole i pane ʻole i loko o kahi lua, e hoʻomaka koke i kahi Satellite SOS ma kāu Garmin inReach, 406 MHz PLB, a i ʻole iPhone Satellite SOS, a i ʻole e kelepona i kāu helu pilikia alpine kūloko (911 ma ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa a me Kanada, 112 ma waena o ka European Union, 1414 no REGA ma Switzerland, 999 ma United Kingdom) a i ʻole e nīnau i kā mākou papa kuhikuhi o ka honua helu pilikia koke. E hoʻokō i ka hopu koke ʻana, ka hoʻoili heleuma, a me nā ʻanuʻu ʻili ma lalo.

E hana i kēia i kēia manawa

  1. E hoʻolei iā ʻoe iho i loko o ka Ice Axe Self-Arrest Position i ka manawa e kuʻi ai kahi hoa hui kaula ma ke alahaka hau (a i ʻole e hoʻōho. "FALLING" inā ʻo ʻoe ka mea e hāʻule ana): Hopu i ke poʻo koʻi hau (piolet) me ka lima hoʻokahi ma luna o ke koʻi a ʻo ka lima ʻē aʻe ma ka piko o ka lāʻau, e ʻōwili i kou ʻōpū e kū pono ana i ke koʻi koʻi, e hoʻolei i ke koʻi kila i ka hau ma ka ʻaoʻao pono o kou poʻohiwi me ka hoʻokiʻekiʻe ʻana o kou mau manamana wāwae i luna o ka hau** (e ʻeli ana i ka crampon i mua i ka hau paʻa i ka wikiwiki a hoʻokuʻu iā ʻoe i hope, a hoʻopaʻa i kou kuʻekuʻe wāwae a hiki i ka hau.
  2. Inā ʻoe e kau ana me ka ʻike i loko o ka lua, e wehe koke i kāu ʻeke kaumaha ma luna o ka loop belay harness a komo i loko o kāu Foot Prusik Loop e pale ai i ka Suspension Syndrome: Ke kau ʻana me ka ʻoniʻoni ʻole me kou kaumaha piha + he 18-kilogram (40-paona) backpack e kaomi ana i ke kaula o kou wāwae wāwae i loko o ka ʻauʻau ʻaʻa i loko o **), hiki ke hoʻoulu i ka syncope a me ka hopu ʻana i ka naʻau i 15 a 30 mau minuke. E ʻoki koke i kāu maʻa **Foot Prusik / Tibloc / Micro Traxion ma luna o ke kaula ma luna aʻe o kāu puʻupuʻu paʻa a kū i luna ma ka loop loop e paʻi i nā ʻiʻo o kou wāwae, a e hoʻohaʻahaʻa i kāu ʻeke ʻeke ma ka loop loop i kau ʻia ma lalo o kou mau wāwae.
  3. Inā ʻo ʻoe ka mea hoʻopakele e paʻa ana i ka hāʻule ma luna o ka ʻili, e kūkulu i kahi Picket hau (T-Slot a i ʻole Vertical Mid-Clip) a i ʻole Ice Screw heleuma MUA me ka hoʻokuʻu ʻole ʻana i ka ukana: E mālama i ke kaumaha o kou kino e hele ana i ke kaula ma ke kūlana hoʻopaʻa iā ʻoe iho i ka wā e hiki aku ai i kou pale me ka lima hoʻokahi e hoʻokele i kahi Snow Picket (ma ka névé/snow) a i ʻole ** Ice Screw** (ma ka hau hau polū) ma hope a i ʻole ma ka ʻaoʻao o kou ʻūhā, kiki a me kahi laka.Autoblock, Klemheist, a i ʻole Prusik)** aiʻole Micro Traxion mai ka heleuma ma luna o ke kaula i hoʻopaʻa ʻia, a ʻīniha mālie i mua a hiki i ka lawe ʻana o ka heleuma i 100% o ke kaumaha o ka mea i pepehi ʻia mai kou kaula.
  4. ʻAʻole hele pololei a hiki i ka lihi o ka lehelehe ʻaʻa UNBELAYED: Ke kau nei nā alahaka hau i ka paia hau maoli o kahi lua ma ka 1 a 3 mau mika (3 a 10 kapuaʻi) ma nā ʻaoʻao ʻelua. E ʻoki mau ʻia i loko o kahi heleuma ʻelua i kākoʻo ʻia ma o kāu loop belay ponoʻī a e ʻimi i ka hau i kēlā me kēia 30 kenimika (12 ʻīniha) me kāu kumu hau a i ʻole ka ʻimi ʻauwaha i kou kolo ʻana i ka lehelehe.
  5. E hoʻopaʻa i ka lehelehe koʻikoʻi me ke koʻi hau, ka hau hau, ka ski, a i ʻole ka ʻeke ʻeke MAMUA o ka huki ʻana: Inā ʻoe e huki pololei i ke kaula glacier 9-milimeter i hoʻouka ʻia ma luna o ka lehelehe hau palupalu me ka ʻole o ka uhi ʻana, e ʻoki koke ke kaula i 1 a 2 mika (3 a 6 kapuaʻi) hohonu i loko o ka lehelehe hau e like me ka uwea paʻakai a hoʻopaʻa pono i ke poʻo i ka mea i pepehi ʻia. e hele ma luna o ka lehelehe.
  6. E koho i ke ala ʻoki wikiwiki loa no ke kūlana o ka mea i pepehi ʻia (Drop-Loop 2:1, Fixed-Rope Self-Ascent, a i ʻole 3:1 / 6:1 Z-Pulley): Inā ʻaʻole ʻeha a ʻike ka mea piʻi hāʻule, e hoʻokuʻu i kahi Bight of Rope (Drop-Loop) maʻalahi me ka carabiner ma ko lākou ʻauamo e hana i kahi 2:1 haul kahi e kōkua ai lākou e huki iā lākou iho i 3 mau minuke, a i ʻole hiki iā lākou ke piʻi i ke kaula paʻa me ka hoʻohana ʻana i kā lākou Chest + Foot Prusiks. Mālama ʻia ka paʻakikī 3:1 Z-Pulley a i ʻole 6:1 Drop-Loop + Z-Pulley nā ʻōnaehana no ka poʻe piʻi ʻeha, ʻike ʻole, a i ʻole ka luhi.

Danger

**Pehea inā e hāʻule ka mea piʻi i loko o kahi ʻāpana "V-Shaped" haiki a wili ʻia e nā iwi ʻaoʻao? (32 degere Fahrenheit) hoʻokahe koke ka hau i ka wela nui. Mai ʻōlelo aku i ka mea piʻi wili e wili a kiki paha i lalo no ka hoʻokuʻu ʻana iā lākou iho, a i ka wā e lawe ʻia ai i luna, e mālama i kahi mea piʻi anuanu a lōʻihi paha ka piʻi ʻana horizontal i mea e pale ai i ka hāʻule ʻana o ka hoʻopakele orthostatic a me ka hāʻule ʻana ma hope o kā mākou ʻo ka hypothermia wao nahele a me ke alakaʻi ola anu.

Ka lāʻau hoʻoholo: mai ka hopu ʻana i ka hāʻule ʻana a hiki i ka ʻili ʻana i luna

E hahai i kēia papa kuhikuhi holoʻokoʻa hoʻopakele alpine i hoʻohana ʻia e nā alakaʻi mauna IFMGA / AMGA a me nā hui hoʻopakele mauna ʻāina:

flowchart TD
    Fall["Haʻi ka Piʻi ma ke Alahaka Hau i Crevasse"] --> Arrest["1. Hoʻokō koke ka Pūʻulu Surface i ka hopu ʻana iā ia iho (Crampon Feet UP) a paʻa i ka ukana."]
    Arrest --> VictimAct["2. I ka manawa like i loko o Crevasse: Ke piʻi ʻana o ka mea maʻi i loko o ka wāwae Prusik Loop no ka pale ʻana i ka ʻeha o ka hoʻokuʻu ʻia a hoʻohaʻahaʻa i ka ʻeke ma ka Tether."]
    VictimAct --> Anchor["3. Hana ʻo Rescuer i ka heleuma kumu mua (Snow Picket / Ice Screw) & Hoʻololi i ke kaula kaula ma o Friction Hitch / Progress Capture"]
    Anchor --> Backup["4. Pakele ka mea hoopakele i ka Belay, hana i ka heleuma 2 i kākoʻo ʻia (2-point equalized), & hoʻokokoke aku i ka lehelehe ma ke kuʻi ʻana i ka wā e ʻimi ana."]
    Backup --> Pad["5. Pad Crevasse Lip (Ice Axe / Picket / Ski / Pack) & Hoʻohālikelike i ke ʻano o ka mea i hoʻopilikia ʻia."]
    Pad --> Cond{"6. Ua ʻike anei ka mea piʻi hāʻule, ʻaʻohe ʻeha, a hiki ke kōkua?"}
    Cond -->|"ʻAe: Manaʻo & ʻAʻole ʻeha"| Fast["Koho A: Piʻi ʻo Victim Self-Acends i ke kaula paʻa me ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā pūhaka + wāwae wāwae<br/>koho B: hoʻokuʻu i kahi kaula kaula i ka ʻaʻahu o ka mea maʻi no ka wikiwiki 2: 1 Drop-Loop Haul"]
    Cond -->|"ʻAʻole: ʻeha, ʻike ʻole, a i ʻole ka luhi"| Haul["Rig 3:1 Z-Pulley (2-3 Rescuer on Surface) A i ʻole 6:1 Drop-Loop C+Z Pulley (1 Solo Rescuer ma ka ʻili)"]
    Fast --> Lip["7. Kokua ma luna o ka Padded Crevasse lehelehe -> E neʻe aku mai kahi pōʻino aku -> E mālama i ka Hypothermia ma ka ʻaoʻao."]
    Haul --> Lip

Māhele 1: Hoʻopau i ka hāʻule ʻana o ka glacier (Ice Ax Self-Arrest & Team Arrest mechanics)

Ma mua o ka kau ʻana i ka wāwae i ka glacier i uhi ʻia i ka hau, pono i kēlā me kēia lālā o ka hui kaula e hele me zero slack (kahi kaula i paʻa ma waena o ka poʻe piʻi i ka 10 a 15 mau mika / 33 a 50 kapuaʻi ke kaʻawale), lawe ** ʻelua mau hitches paʻa paʻa mua (a i ʻole he Micro Traxion + Tibloc) ua ʻoki ʻia i ko lākou ʻauamo**, a hoʻopaʻa i ko lākou koʻi hau ma ka Self-Arrest Grip (lima ma ke poʻo me ka manamana lima ma lalo o ke koʻi, e koho i ke kuhikuhi ʻana ** i hope** i loko. piolet-canne).

1. ʻO ka 4-Step Individual Ice Axe Self-Arrest Drill

Inā ʻoe e paheʻe ma kahi pali hau kiʻekiʻe a i ʻole e huki ʻia i mua o kou mau wāwae e kekahi hoa e hāʻule ana i loko o kahi lua i mua ou, e hana i kēia mau neʻe ʻehā i hoʻokahi kekona wai: 1. Hopu Lima Lima ma ke Ko'i: - Ka lima ma luna: E hoʻopaʻa paʻa i ke poʻo o ke koʻi hau ma luna o ke koʻi o ka koi/koi no laila ke kila koho kuhikuhi i hope/i lalo i ka hau (pale kou lima i ke koʻi ʻoi mai ka pā ʻana i kou alo). - Lima lalo: Hopu i ka lalo o ke ko'i ko'i ma luna pono o ke kila ferrule/spike. 2. Huki i ke koʻi koʻikoʻi ma ka ʻaoʻao o kou umauma: - E hoʻopaʻa i ke poʻo o ke koʻi ma luna pono a ma mua o kou poʻohiwi i loko (ka poʻohiwi ma ka ʻaoʻao o ke koʻi), me ka holo ʻana o ke koʻi ma luna o kou umauma a i kou ʻūhā kūʻē. Mai hoʻokuʻu i ke poʻo koʻi e hoʻoheheʻe ʻia mai kou poʻohiwi mai kahi e huki ai ka hau mai kou paʻa ʻana (chicken-winging). 3. Kaʻa i ka ʻaoʻao koho ma kou ʻōpū (Head Piʻi): - E kaʻa mau ** ma ka ʻaoʻao e kau ana ke koho** (e ʻolokaʻa ana mai ka ʻohi ʻoki e hoʻokuʻu i ke kumu mai kou mau lima). - Inā ua hoʻohuli ʻia ʻoe i lalo (ke poʻo-mua i lalo o ka pali), e hoʻoluli i ka piko o ke koʻi i loko o ka hau ma kou ʻaoʻao ma ke ʻano he pivot point e koli i kou mau wāwae i lalo ma mua o ka hoʻokomo ʻana i ke koʻi. 4. ** E ʻā i kou kua, e hoʻokele i ke kaumaha ma luna o kou poʻohiwi / koho, a e hoʻokiʻekiʻe i ka CRAMPON FEET UP **: - RULE CRITICAL I KA KAU ANA I KA CRAMPONS: Inā ʻoe e ʻaʻahu ana i nā crampons kila ma kou mau kamaa, kulou i kou mau kuli e hoʻopaʻa i kou mau ʻūhā crampon 30 kenimika (12 iniha) i luna i ka lewa mai ka hau oiai e kaomi ana i kou mau kuli a me kou ʻūhā i ka pali. ʻO ka hoʻokele ʻana i 12 mau pahu kila i loko o ka névé paʻakikī ʻoiai e heʻe ana i ka 25 kilomita i kēlā me kēia hola (15 mph) e hoʻopaʻa koke i kou mau kāmaʻa, e ʻoki ana i kou tibia/fibula a i ʻole e hoʻihoʻi i hope ma luna o kou poʻo ma kou ʻāʻī. - E hohola i kou mau kuli no ka paʻa ʻana a e kaomi mālie i kou umauma a me kou poʻohiwi i ke kaumaha a paʻa i lalo i ke poʻo o ke koʻi hau no laila e palau ka ʻohi kila i ka ʻauwaha hohonu a hiki i kou pae ʻana.

Māhele 2: He aha kāu e hana ai inā ʻo ʻoe ka mea piʻi e kau ana i loko o ka lua

Inā ʻoe e kuʻi i ke alahaka hau a kū i ke kaula e kau ana ma ke kaula 5 a 20 mika (16 a 65 kapuaʻi) i lalo i loko o ka hau hau polū, ʻaʻole hiki i kāu mau hoa ma luna ke lohe maopopo iā ʻoe ma o ka lehelehe hau e kau ana. ʻO kāu mea e hana ai i loko o ka 3 minuke mua e pale ai i ka hoʻokuʻu ʻia ʻana, hypothermia, a me ka ʻoki kaula:

KaʻAnuʻu Hana 1: Hoʻokuʻu koke i ka ʻeha o ke kaula wāwae o Harness (Kaohi ʻana i ka Trauma Hoʻokuʻu ʻia)

Ke kau wale ʻoe ma ke kāʻei piʻi, hoʻopaʻa nā puka lou i nā ** ʻaʻa femoral ** i loko o kou ʻāʻī a ʻo kou mau wāwae e kau ʻole me ka ʻole o ka "pamu ʻiʻo" maʻamau e hoʻihoʻi i ke koko venous i kou puʻuwai. I loko o 15 a 30 mau minuke (a ʻoi aku paha inā he ʻeke ʻeke kaumaha), a hiki i ka 20 pākēneka o ka nui o ka nui o ke koko ma kou mau wāwae haʻahaʻa, e hāʻule koke ana i ka preload cardiac, nalowale ka ʻike (Orthostatic Suspension Syncope), a me ka hypoxia make inā hāʻule kou ala ea i mua. 1. ** E komo i loko o kāu Loop wāwae (Foot Prusik / Runner) i loko o 60 kekona**: Pono kēlā me kēia mākaʻikaʻi glacier e hele me ka pūhaka a me ka lōʻihi 120-cm (48-inch) foot-loop prusik i hoʻopaʻa mua ʻia i ke kaula (a i ʻole e kau mākaukau ana ma luna o kā lākou puʻupuʻu harness gear loop). E hoʻopili i ka prusik wāwae i ke kaula piʻi ma luna o kāu kiʻi-ʻewalu kaulahao, e hoʻokuʻu i kou kāmaʻa i loko o ka loop loop, a kū i luna ma hoʻokahi a i ʻole nā ​​wāwae ʻelua i kēlā me kēia 30 kekona e hoʻoluli i kou ʻiʻo bipi a me ka ʻūhā a hoʻomaha i ke kaumaha o ka ʻāʻī. 2. Inā ʻaʻohe ou wāwae: Huki i nā kuli ʻelua a kiʻekiʻe i kou umauma (Noho / Fetal Position) a i ʻole e hoʻopaʻa pono i kāu mau kiko crampon ma ka paia hau (me ka ʻoki ʻole ʻana i ke kaula) i mea e hoʻemi ai i ke kaumaha mai kou mau ʻaʻa femoral. 3. E wehe i kāu ʻeke kaumaha ma luna o kahi loop loop: ʻO kahi pūʻolo huakaʻi he 15 a 25 kilokalama (33 a 55 paona) e huki ai i kou kino luna i hope (hoʻohuli iā ʻoe i lalo inā ʻaʻole ʻoe e ʻaʻahu i ka umauma) a hoʻohui i ke kaumaha nui inā pono kāu mau hoa e huki iā ʻoe. ʻOki i kahi carabiner laka a me kahi 120-cm (48-inch) ka maʻa dyneema mai kāu loke belay harness a i ka ** loop loop o kāu ʻeke ʻeke**, e wehe i ke kaula poʻohiwi o ka ʻeke, a wehe i ka ʻeke i kau ʻia ma lalo o kou mau wāwae mai kou loop belay (ʻaʻole e hoʻolei i kāu ʻeke i lalo o ka lua, no ka mea e paʻa ana i kou pale a me nā mea hoʻopakele hou aku).

KaʻAnuʻu Hana 2: E hoʻomākaukau iā ʻoe iho e piʻi i ke kaula paʻa ("Prusiking / Texas Kick System")

Inā ʻaʻole ʻoe i ʻeha a manaʻo ʻoe i ke kaula ma luna o ʻoe e paʻa loa no 3 a 5 mau minuke (ʻo ia hoʻi, ua kūkulu kou hoa ma ka ʻili i kahi heleuma a hoʻoili i kou kaumaha ma luna), e hoʻomākaukau e piʻi i ke kaula me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka Two-Prusik / Ascender System:

      [Anchored Climbing Rope Above]
                   |
         +---------+---------+
         | UPPER ASCENDER    |  <-- 1. Waist / Chest Prusik (3-Wrap Prusik,
         | (Waist / Chest)   |         Autoblock, or Petzl Micro Traxion)
         +---------+---------+         Clipped short to Harness Belay Loop
                   |
         +---------+---------+
         | LOWER ASCENDER    |  <-- 2. Foot Prusik (5-6mm Cord or Petzl Tibloc)
         | (Foot Loop Sling) |         Connected to a 120cm Foot Stirrup Sling
         +---------+---------+         (AND backed up to Belay Loop for safety)
                   |
         [Tie-In Figure-8 Knot] --> Re-clip dynamic rope bight every 3 meters
  1. E noho hou ma luna o kāu Prusik Upper (Waist) no laila e nahu i ke kaula a paʻa i ke kaumaha o kou kino.
  2. E hoʻoheheʻe i kou Lower (Foot) Prusik UP ke kaula a ma lalo pono o ka pūhaka prusik, e kulou i kou kuli kiʻekiʻe i kou umauma.
  3. E kū pololei i luna o kou Foot Loop (e hoʻokuke ana me kou mau ʻiʻo wāwae quadriceps ikaika, ʻaʻole e huki me kou mau lima), a i ka piʻi ʻana o kou pūhaka, ** hoʻoheheʻe i kou Upper (Waist) Prusik UP i ke kaula** a noho hou i lalo.
  4. Kūpono Palekana ʻOiai e piʻi ana: Ke piʻi ʻoe i ke kaula, e kau mai ana kahi puka e ulu ana o ke kaula piʻi lohi ma lalo ou. ** I kēlā me kēia 2 a 3 mau mika (6 a 10 kapuaʻi), e hoʻopaʻa i kahi puʻupuʻu Figure-Eight-on-a-Bight i ke kaula piʻi ma lalo ou a hoʻopaʻa iā ia i kāu loop belay puʻupuʻu me kahi carabiner laka** no laila inā paheʻe a heheʻe paha ke kaula prusik, ʻaʻole hiki iā ʻoe ke hāʻule ma mua o 2 mika.
  5. Ke Kaʻa ʻana i ka lehelehe hau e kau ana (The Crux): No ka huki ʻana o kou kaumaha i ke kaula piʻi i loko o ka lehelehe hau palupalu ma luna ou, e hoʻopili pololei kāu mau puʻupuʻu prusik i ka pā hau ma ka lehelehe. Hoʻokuʻu i 1 mika ma lalo o ka lehelehe, e piʻi ma luna o ka lehelehe e kanu i kāu ** hau koʻi i loko o ka hau palahalaha ma luna o ka lua**, a i ʻole ʻoki ʻia i loko o kahi ** puʻupuʻu kaula pōkole / kaula kaumaha ʻole ** i hoʻokuʻu ʻia ma luna o kahi kumu koʻi paʻa e kou hoa ma luna, e piʻi kiʻekiʻe i ka pā hau me kāu crampons, a mantel ma luna o ka glaciner palahalaha.

Māhele 3: Kūkākūkā hoʻopakele i ka ʻili (Ke kūkulu ʻana i ka heleuma, ka hoʻoili ʻana i ka ukana, a me ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana i ka haul)

Inā ʻoe ma luna o ka ʻili e paʻa ana i ke kaumaha o kāu hoa hāʻule ma ke kūlana paʻa iā ia iho, mai hopohopo a mai hoʻāʻo e kū i luna a huki lima lima i kahi mea piʻi 90-kilogram (200-pauna) ma luna o ka lehelehe hau: ʻo ke kuʻi ʻana o ke kaula i loko o ka lehelehe hau e hoʻonui i ka ikaika huki i makemake ʻia e 200 a 300 pakeneka (, ʻo ia hoʻi, ʻoi aku ka 40 paona ma luna o ka 40 paona) he 80 kilokaki piʻi ma luna o kahi lihi hau ʻole. E hahai i kēia kaʻina hoʻopakele 5-step.

KaʻAnuʻu Hana 1: E kūkulu i kahi hau hau a i ʻole heleuma hau i ka wā e paʻa ana i ka hāʻule

ʻOiai e hoʻohaʻahaʻa i kou kino ma ke kūlana paʻa iā ʻoe iho e paʻa ana i ke kaula paʻa, e hōʻea i kou pale me kou lima kaʻawale a kūkulu i kāu Primary Transfer Anchor ma hope a i ʻole ma ka ʻaoʻao āu e pili ana i ke kūlana o ka glacier:

ʻO ke ʻano o ka ʻili hau ʻAno heleuma maikaʻi loa a me ka hoʻonohonoho Ka ikaika a me ka hoʻokomo koʻikoʻi
Névé Summer Paʻa a i ʻole Hau Paʻa Paʻa Kūkuʻi ʻia ʻo Snow Picket ma ke kū pololei/anele (Mid-Clip a i ʻole Top-Clip) Hāmama ka 60-cm (24-inch) ka pahu hau aluminika i loko o ka hau ma kahi klzzwxh:0121 (70 degrees to the snow surface) noaila ʻaʻole e uʻe ka luna, a i ʻole e ʻoki i ka kauea waena/puka (Mid-Clip) a ʻokiʻoki i kahi pahu kūiki kūiki i ka hau i mua o ka picket no ka maʻa.
Ka hau malū, ʻoluʻolu, a i ʻole ke ahiahi pulu ** Horizontal Buried "Deadman / T-Slot" Snow Picket, Ice Axe, or Skis** Haehae ka picket kū i ka hau mālū. E ʻoki i kahi ʻauwaha ākea 30 a 45 kenimika (12 a 18 ʻīniha) hohonu e kū pono ana i ke kaula, ʻoki i kahi haiki. T-e hoʻomoe i mua i ka ʻauwaha no ka maʻa i hoʻopaʻa ʻia, e hoʻomoe i ke koʻi hau kaʻawale, a i ʻole ka ski ma ka ʻauwaha, a hehi paʻa i ka hau ma luna.
Ice Blue Glacial Ice (Late Summer / Dry Glacier) 13-cm a 21-cm Tubular Steel Ice Screw (V-Thread / Abalakov Mālama) E hoʻomaʻemaʻe i ka ʻōpala keʻokeʻo popopo (dinner-plating) a hiki i ka hau uliuli paʻa, a me ka makani ma kahi Ice Screw ʻokiʻoki 10 a 15 degere me ka hanger e kuhikuhi ana i ka haʻawe (paʻa ka ikaika huki huki kiʻekiʻe loa o nā wili hau o kēia manawa, ma luna o \(15\text{ kN}\), ke hoʻokiʻekiʻe ʻia he 10 degere me ka huki ʻana a hiki i ka huki ʻana i nā kaula ma mua o ka huki ʻana i ka paipu).

KaʻAnuʻu Hana 2: E hoʻololi i ke kaumaha o ka mea i hoʻopaʻi ʻia mai kou ʻauamo a i ka heleuma ("Escaping the Belay")

  1. E ʻoki i kahi maʻa heleuma mai kāu Snow Picket a i ʻole Ice Screw i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i kahi carabiner paʻa i mua pono o kāu kāʻei.
  2. E hoʻopaʻa i kahi 3-Wrap Prusik, Klemheist, a i ʻole Autoblock friction hitch (me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ke kaula kōkua 5-mm a 7-mm, ʻaʻole loa e paheʻe ʻia ka pūnaewele Dyneema e paheʻe ana ma nā kaula hau) a puni ke kaula i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i mua ou, A i ʻole e ʻoki i kahi **Petzl Micro Traxion / Camp Lift i ka holomua o ke kaula. carabiner laka.
  3. E hoʻokuke i ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana (a i ʻole Micro Traxion) e like me ka hiki i kou lima ke hiki aku i mua o ke kaula kuʻi.
  4. E hoʻokuʻu mālie i kou kino i mua 15 kenimika (6 ʻīniha) ma lalo o ka pali: e nānā pono i ka picket/screw heleuma i ka nahu ʻana o ke kuʻi a hoʻoneʻe mālie i ka 100% o ke kaumaha o ka mea i hoʻopaʻa ʻia mai kou pale a ma luna o ka heleuma.
  5. I ka wā e lohi loa ai ke kaula piʻi ma waena o kou kaula a me ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana, e hoʻopaʻa i kahi puʻupuʻu Overhand / Figure-Eight-on-a-Bight i loko o kāu kaula hoʻomaha a hoʻopaʻa iā ia i ka carabiner heleuma no laila e kākoʻo mau ʻia ʻoe, a laila e wehe a wehe paha inā pono e kūkulu i kahi Second Backed-Up Equalized ma hope o ka heleuma mua 1 mika.

KaʻAnuʻu Hana 3: E hoʻokokoke a paʻi i ka lehelehe Crevasse me ka palekana

  1. E ʻoki i kāu loop loop pilikino i loko o ke kaula piʻi keu (i hele i ka heleuma i kākoʻo ʻia) ma o ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana no laila ** ʻaʻole hiki iā ʻoe ke hāʻule iā ʻoe iho i loko o ka lua inā hāʻule ka lehelehe**.
  2. E ʻimi i ka hau ma mua ou me kāu koʻi hau a i ʻole ka ʻimi ʻauwaha i kou kolo ʻana i ka lihi a ʻike ʻoe i ka pā hau paʻa maoli me ke alahaka hau e kau ana.
  3. E hoʻomoe i ka lehelehe ma lalo o ke ala kaula: E hoʻoneʻe i kahi ʻokoʻa Ice Axe, Snow Picket, Ski, a i ʻole Foam Sleeping Pad / Backpack ma ka ʻaoʻao o ka lehelehe i ʻōwili mālie ʻia ke kaula huki ma luna o ka ʻili metala paʻa.
  4. E ho'ōho akaka i kou hoa: "ARE YOU OKAY? CLIMB THE ROPE OR LAVE DROP LOOP?"

KaʻAnuʻu Hana 4: Ke kūkulu nei i ka 3 Mechanical Advantage Haul Systems (2:1 Drop-Loop, 3:1 Z-Pulley, a 6:1 C+Z Pulley)

E hoʻohālikelike a hoʻopaʻa i ka ʻōnaehana huki kūpono no ka nui o kāu hui a me ke kūlana o ka mea i pepehi ʻia:

Haul System Name Pōmaikaʻi Mechanical (Theoretical vs. Real with Friction) I ka wa e hoohana ai Nā ʻōlelo aʻoaʻo hoʻopaʻa ʻana
1. ʻO ka 2: 1 "Drop-Loop" (C-Pulley) 2:1 Manaʻo (\(\sim 1.4:1\) a i \(1.8:1\) maoli; 4:1 hopena inā huki ka mea i hoʻopaʻa ʻia me ko lākou mau lima iho) Hoʻopakele wikiwiki loa (< 5 mau minuke) i ka wā e ʻike ai ka mea i hōʻeha ʻia, ʻaʻole ʻeha**, a ua lawa kāu kaula ʻokoʻa ma ka ʻili e hiki ai i lalo iā lākou. 1. E hoʻopaʻa paʻa i ke kaula hāʻule mua ma ka ʻili.
2. E lawe i ka hope lohi o ke kaula ma luna o ka ʻili, e pelu i kahi ʻāpana (loop), a e hoʻohaʻahaʻa iho i lalo i ka mea i hoʻopaʻa ʻia me kahi carabiner laka i ʻoki ʻia i loko.
3. Hoʻopaʻa pololei ka mea i hoʻopaʻi ʻia i ka carabiner laka hoʻokahi (a i ʻole ka pulley) i ko lākou lui hoʻopaʻa harness belay.
4. E heleuma i hoʻokahi wāwae o ka loop hāʻule i kou heleuma i luna (Micro Traxion), a huki i luna ma ka wāwae ʻē aʻe i ka wā e huki ai ka mea pepehi iā ia iho i ka wāwae paʻa.
2. ʻO ka 3: 1 "Z-Pulley" (Z-Drag) 3:1 Theoretical (\(\sim 1.8:1\) a i \(2.4:1\) maoli me na pulleys; koi wale i ka ⅓ o ka lōʻihi o ke kaula ma ka ʻili) Ke ** ʻeha ka mea i ʻeha, ʻike ʻole, a ʻaʻole hiki ke ʻoki i kahi loop-loop**, A i ʻole i ka pōkole loa o kāu kaula e hiki ai i lalo i ka mea i pepehi ʻia a hoʻi hou i luna. ʻOi aku ka maikaʻi inā loaʻa iā ʻoe 2 a i ʻole 3 mau mea hoʻopakele ma ka ʻili e huki ai. 1. Ma kou heleuma ili nui, e oki i ke kaula haawe ma o ka Progress-Capture Pulley (Micro Traxion) (a i ʻole he pulley + Autoblock minding hitch): ʻo kāu Ratchet / Progress Capture.
2. E hōʻea i lalo i ke kaula haʻawe i ka lehelehe crevasse (ma hope pono o ka pale lehelehe) a hoʻopili i kahi hoʻopaʻapaʻa lua (The Tractor Prusik / Tibloc) me kahi pulley i ʻoki ʻia.
3. E lawe i ka huelo manuahi o ke kaula e puka mai ana mai ka Anchor Pulley ma hope, e holo i mua ma mua o Tractor Pulley kokoke i ka lehelehe, a huki i hope i ka glacier (e hana ana i hua nui "Z" ma ka hau).
4. I kēlā me kēia manawa e hōʻea ai ka Tractor Pulley i ka Anchor Pulley, paʻa ka Ratchet i ka mea i pepehi ʻia ʻoiai ʻoe e hoʻoneʻe i ka Tractor Prusik i waho i ka lehelehe e hoʻoponopono hou.
3. ʻO ka 6:1 "Drop-Loop + Z-Pulley" (Compound C+Z System) 6:1 Manaʻo (\(\sim 3.5:1\) a i \(4.5:1\) maoli) Koi no ka SOLO Surface Rescuer (2-Person Rope Team) ka mea pono e huki i kahi hoa ** ʻike ʻole a ʻeha nui paha** ma luna o ka lehelehe hau ʻāwili nui iā lākou iho. 1. E hoʻohaʻahaʻa mua i kahi 2:1 Drop-Loop (inā hiki i ka mea pōʻino ke ʻoki iā ia) A i ʻole e kūkulu i kahi 3:1 Z-Pulley maʻamau ma ke kaula hoʻouka nui.
2. No ka hoʻololi ʻana i ka 3:1 Z-Pulley i 6:1 Compound System (a i ʻole 5:1 / 9:1), e hoʻopili i kahi pulley lua + prusik ma ka huelo huki o ka 3:1 Z-pulley a hoʻihoʻi hou i ke kaula i hope ma o ka carabiner heleuma (hoonui i $3:1 \times 2:1 = 6: kilo a. (120-paona) ka mea piʻi kaʻawale e huki i kahi hoa ʻike ʻole he 100-kilogram (220-paona) me ka lima hoʻokahi.		 
               3:1 Z-PULLEY (Z-DRAG) SCHEMATIC ON GLACIER SURFACE

  [Backed-Up Snow/Ice Anchor]
              |
              +---> [Progress-Capture Pulley / Ratchet Prusik]
                              /                 \
        (Load Strand to      /                   \  (Redirected Haul Strand)
         Crevasse Lip)      /                     \
                           v                       v
                 [Tractor Prusik + Pulley] <--------+
                  (Slide Forward Toward Lip to Reset)
                          /
                         /  <--- RESCUERS PULL THIS TAIL UP THE GLACIER (3:1)
                        v
            ======================== (Padded Crevasse Lip: Ice Axe / Ski)
                        |
                        v
               [Fallen Climber]

Māhele 4: Wehe i ka mea i hōʻeha ʻia ma luna o ka lehelehe a me ka mālama olakino no Suspension Syndrome & Hypothermia

  1. Kokua ana i ka mea i poino ma luna o ka mita hope ma ka lehelehe:
  2. ʻO ka mita hope loa ma ka lehelehe crevasse kahi e ʻeha ai a me ka huki huki ʻana no ka mea ua pā ka umauma a i ʻole ka puʻupuʻu o ka mea i pepehi ʻia i ka pale lehelehe.
  3. Inā loaʻa iā ʻoe ʻelua mau mea hoʻopakele ma luna o ka ʻili, e hoʻokahi mea hoʻopakele (ua kuʻi paʻa ʻia i ka heleuma) e kolo i ka lehelehe hoe, e hoʻolei i kahi Hand-Loop Sling pōkole ʻokoʻa i lalo no ka mea piʻi e hopu ai, a i ʻole e hele i lalo e alakaʻi i kā lākou puʻupuʻu ma luna o ke kumu koʻi hoe i ʻole ia e paʻa.
  4. Mai Lapaʻau Ma hope o ka hoʻopakele ʻana (Horizontal Positioning for Suspension Trauma & Core Afterdrop):
  5. Ke huki ʻia ka mea piʻi i 5 mika (16 kapuaʻi) i hope mai ka lua i loko o kahi wahi palekana i hoʻopaʻa ʻia:
    • Inā ʻoi aku ka 15 a 20 mau minuke e kau ana ka mea piʻi i loko o kona puʻupuʻu a i ʻole e haʻalulu nui ana / lethargic: E hoʻopaʻa iā lākou i palahalaha / ʻāpae (a i ʻole he semi-recumbent inā noʻonoʻo a me ka dyspneic, e hoʻololi mālie ana i ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa ma luna o kahi paʻa i hoʻopaʻa ʻia) a ** ʻAʻole e koi iā lākou e kū i luna a hele koke** E like me ka hoʻokomo ʻia ʻana o ka wai anuanu, hoʻihoʻi koke ʻia ke koko, acidotic, potasiuma-waiwai i loko o nā wāwae lalo (Afterdrop a Reperfusion) hiki ke hoʻoulu i ka ventricular arrhythmias inā mālama hewa ʻia.
    • E hoʻokaʻawale iā lākou mai ka hau glacier me ka hoʻohana ʻana i kēlā me kēia ʻeke ʻeke a me ka pahu moe pahu i loko o ka hui, e waiho iā lākou i loko o kahi uhi hypothermia (lalo parka + ʻeke moe + ʻeke bivy / pahu pahu pahu pahu pahu), a hahai i kā mākou ʻo ka hypothermia wao nahele a me ke alakaʻi ola anu a alakaʻi no ka maʻi kiʻekiʻe (AMS, HAPE, HACE)..

Tip

ʻO ka heluhelu ʻana e pili ana i kahi 3: 1 Z-pulley ʻaʻole ia he pani no ka hoʻomanaʻo ʻana i ka ʻiʻo i ka puhi hau me nā lima lima lima. Ma mua o ka huakaʻi ʻana ma kekahi kiʻekiʻe glaciated, e lawe lima i ka ** Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue course** mai kahi ** AMGA / IFMGA alakaʻi mauna **, ka American Alpine Institute, Mountaineers, a i ʻole ka hui alpine aupuni, me kahi papa kōkua mua o ka wao nahele mai NOLS, ke Keʻa ʻulaʻula, a i ʻole St John Ambulance, a hoʻomaʻamaʻa i ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana i kou ʻāina maloʻo ma lalo o ka Z-pulley a hiki i ka hiki ʻana iā ʻoe ke hoʻomaʻamaʻa ma ka lepo maloʻo.

Nīnau pinepine

No ke aha ʻoe e hoʻopaʻa ai i kou mau wāwae i ka lewa i ka wā e hoʻopaʻa ai iā ʻoe iho i ke koʻi hau me ke komo ʻana i nā crampons?

Ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻoe i lalo i ka hau hau a i ʻole ka hau i ka wikiwiki me ke kāʻei ʻana i ke kila 10-point a i ʻole 12-point crampons, e ʻae ana i kou manamana wāwae a i ʻole nā ​​kuʻekuʻe wāwae e pā i ka hau e hoʻopaʻa koke ʻia nā wili kila ʻoi e like me ka makau grappling. Ma kahi o ka hoʻomaha ʻana iā ʻoe me ka palekana, ʻo ka hopu ʻana i kahi crampon point me ka wikiwiki e paʻi i kou kuʻekuʻe wāwae a me ka tibia (he ʻokiʻoki alpine spiral maʻamau) a i ʻole e hoʻoneʻe ikaika i kou kino haʻahaʻa i luna o kou poʻo i ke kua i hope, e ʻoki ana i ke koʻi hau mai kou mau lima. ʻO ka kulou ʻana i kou mau kuli no laila e noho ai kāu mau crampons ma kahi o 30 kenimika (12 iniha) mai ka hau ke kaomi ʻana i kou mau kuli, ʻūhā, a me ke koʻi hau i loko o ka pali e hāʻawi iā ʻoe i ka paheʻe ʻana.

He aha ka harness suspension trauma (suspension syndrome) i loko o ka lua a pehea ʻoe e pale ai?

ʻO ka maʻi hoʻokuʻu (ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana i ka orthostatic harness hang intolerance) hiki ke piʻi i ka wā e kau ʻole ai ka mea piʻi i loko o ke kāʻei noho me nā wāwae e lele pololei ana ma lalo o lākou. I loko o 15 a 30 mau minuke, hāʻule nui ka puʻuwai puʻuwai, e hoʻonāwaliwali ai, maule, a hiki ke make i ka hypoxia a i ʻole ka hopu ʻana i ka puʻuwai inā ua kaupalena ʻia ke alaloa o ka mea piʻi ʻike ʻole. Hiki iā ʻoe ke pale koke iā ia ma ke ʻoki ʻana i kahi maʻa Foot Prusik ma ke kaula piʻi ma luna o kāu kaula paʻa a kū i luna i ka loop loop i kēlā me kēia 30 kekona e paʻi i nā ʻiʻo o kou wāwae a hoʻemi i ke kaomi ʻana mai kou mau kaula ʻāʻī.

Pono ʻoe e hoʻohana i kahi kulu hāʻule 2:1 a i ʻole 3:1 Z-pulley no ka huki ʻana i kekahi i waho o kahi lua?

Inā ʻike ka mea piʻi hāʻule, ʻaʻole i ʻeha, a ua lawa kāu kaula ʻokoʻa ma luna o ka ʻili e hiki ai i lalo iā lākou, ʻoi aku ka wikiwiki a me ka maʻalahi o ka Drop-Loop (C-pulley) 2: 1: e hoʻohaʻahaʻa iho ʻoe i kahi kaula me kahi carabiner laka no ka mea i hoʻopaʻa ʻia e hoʻopaʻa i ko lākou harness belay loop, a i ka wā e huki ai ka mea i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i lalo i kou huki ʻana i ke kaula paʻa, hiki iā ʻoe ke hoʻohaʻahaʻa i ke kaula paʻa. 4: 1 pono me ka hoʻihoʻi ʻana i ka waena waena. Eia nō naʻe, inā ʻaʻole ʻike ka mea piʻi i hāʻule, ua haki ka lima a i ʻole nā ​​iwi ʻaoʻao, a ʻaʻole lawa kāu kaula i hoʻokaʻawale ʻia ma ka ʻili e hāʻule ai i kahi loop iā lākou, pono ʻoe e kūkulu i kahi 3:1 Z-Pulley (a i ʻole 6:1 pūnaehana hui) pololei ma ke kaula haʻawe kumu.

Nānā ʻia nā kumu

  • International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA / UIAGM) & ʻAhahui alakaʻi mauna ʻAmelika (AMGA): Alpine & Ski Mountaineering Manual: Glacier Rope Team Spacing, Snow Picket & Ice Screw Anchors, Escaping the Belay, and 2:1 / 3:1 / 6:1 Crevasse Haul Systems.
  • Komisina International no ka Alpine Rescue (ICAR Komisina Lapaau, ICAR MEDCOM): Nā Kūkākūkā Kūkākūkā no ka Kāohi ʻana a me ka mālama ʻana i ka Suspension Syndrome (Harness Hang Pathology) a me Glacial Hypothermia in Crevasse Accidents.
  • ʻO ka mauna: Ka mauna: The Freedom of the Hills (10th Edition), Mokuna 16 (Snow Travel and Ice Axe Self-Arrest) a me ka Mokuna 17 (Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue).
  • Petzl Technical Institute: Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Technical Manual (Micro Traxion Progress-Capture Hauling, Tibloc Tractor Rigging, and Over-the-Lip Friction Reduction).
  • ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa Park Service (NPS, Mount Rainier & Denali Climbing Rangers): Glacier Mountaineering Safety & Crevasse Extraction Field Protocols.

Nā alakaʻi pili