Dikuluka dia Glacier Crevasse, Ice Axe Self-Arrest, ne Rope Team Rescue¶

Kupitshila mu tshibumba tshia neje tshisokoka mu tshina tshia mabue a mashika pa mukuna wa Rainier, Denali, Mont Blanc, pa Bugaboos, anyi pa mikuna ya Alpes ya ku Sud nkunyema ne mêba asatu adi enzeka musangu umue: Dikuma ne disama dia pendulum mu tshikondo tshia dikuluka dia mvula, Conductive & Convective Hypothermia munda mua 0 degrés Csiel (32) tshitupa tshidi tshienda tshikepela kuinshi, ne Suspension Syndrome (Orthostatic Harness Hang Intolerance) pikala muntu udi ubanda mukuna udi kayi mumanye tshidiye wenza anyi mutshioke udi ulenga kayi unyema mu tshilamba tshia kusomba natshi munkatshi mua minite mipite pa 15 anyi 30 padi mashi enda avulangana mu mikolo yende. Padi mubandi wa ku mutu anyi muena mudimu nende wa kunyima upueka ku mêsu kupitshila ku tshibumba tshia neje, muena mudimu nende udi ne 1,5 sekonde kumpala kua tshingoma kuya tshikole bua kuela bujitu bua mubidi wende pa tshiamu tshiabu tshia mabue a mashika mu Muaba wa kudikuata. Padibu bamane kukuluka, tshisumbu tshia pa mutu pa buloba tshidi ne bua kuenza tshintu tshidi katshiyi tshibuela mu neje anyi neje, kumbusha bujitu bua mufue wa muntu udibu bashipe ku tshilamba tshiabu pa tshilamba ku diambuluisha dia tshintu tshidi tshikuata, kujika mushiku wa tshina bua tshingoma tshidibu bateke katshiyi tshibuela mu bule bua metre 1,5 (5 feet) mu tshibuelelu tshia neje, ne kuenza tshilamba tshia kuela muntu udibu bashipe bua kupueka anyi kumukoka ku diambuluisha dia tshiamu tshia kukoka natshi 3:1 C-Pulley / Z-Pulley (C+Z = 6:1) système d'avantage mécanique.

Shi muntu udi ubanda mukuna mukuluke mu tshina tshidi katshiyi ne mionji, mubuele mu tshina tshidi tshienda tshikepela, anyi kayi wenza bualu nansha bumue munda mua tshina, enza diakamue Satellite SOS ku tshiamu tshieba Garmin inReach, 406 MHz PLB, anyi iPhone Satellite SOS, anyi ubikile ku nimero ya njiwu ya muaba unudi (911 mu États-Unis ne mu Canada, 112 mu matunga masanga a ku Mputu, 1414 bua REGA mu Suisse, 999 mu Royaume-Uni) anyi tangila mukanda wetu wa malu a pa buloba bujima nomba ya tshimpitshimpi diakamue. Enza mudimu wa dikuata dia lukasa, dishintulula dia tshiamu, ne dipatula dia bintu bidi kuinshi eku.

Enza nunku mpindieu¶

1. Diela mu muaba wa Ice Axe Self-Arrest Position dîba didi muena mudimu nebe wa mu tshisumbu tshia mionji ukuma tshibumba tshia neje (anyi wela mbila "FALLING" shi udi wewa): Kuata mutu wa tshingoma tshia mashika (piolet) ne tshianza tshimue pa mutu pa tshiamu tshia adze ne tshianza tshikuabu ku nsongo ya kuinshi kua tshiamu tshia mitaku, wela pa difu diebe mutangile ku tshiamu tshia nsongo, wela tshiamu tshia mitaku mu neje ku luseke lua dikaya diebe eku ulama minu yebe ya crampon mibandishibue MUulu pa neje (kumbula nsongo ya kumpala ya crampon mu neje mikole ku lubilu lukole ne kukuatshila tshianza tshia panyima), ne ukuate bujitu buebe ku tshiamu tshia nsongo neje too ne padi dienda dijika.
2. Biwikala mulelela munda mua tshina, umbusha diakamue tshibombi tshiebe tshia mu tshiadi tshikole pa tshilamba tshiebe tshia ku tshianza ne ubuele mu tshibombi tshiebe tshia Foot Prusik bua kuepuka disama dia Suspension Syndrome: Kuikala kayi wendakana ne bujitu bua mubidi webe mujima + tshibombi tshia 18-kilograms (40-pound) tshidi tshifina tshibombi tshiebe tshia maulu ku mishipa ya mu tshiadi bua kuenza bua mashi a mu mishipa yebe ikale ne mashi mu mikolo yebe (Trauma de suspension), idi mua kufikisha ku dipanga dia lungenyi ne ku diimanyika dia mutshima mu minite 15 too ne ku 30. Diakamue, ela Foot Prusik / Tibloc / Micro Traxion sling webe udi mulongolola kale ku tshingoma tshidi pa mutu pa tshilamba tshiebe tshia kukanga nabi ne wimane mu tshilamba tshia makasa bua kupompa misunya ya ku makasa ebe, ne upuekeshe tshibombi tshiebe pa tshilamba tshia kulamakaja natshi bua tshikale tshilengeja kuinshi kua makasa ebe.
3. Wewe udi musungidi udi mukuate dikuluka pa mutu pa mâyi, enza Snow Picket (T-Slot anyi Vertical Mid-Clip) anyi Ice Screw anchor FIRST kuyi ulekela bujitu: Lama bujitu bua mubidi webe bua kulama nkamba mu muaba wa kudikanda paudi ufika ku tshianza tshiebe tshia ku tshianza tshimue bua kuendesha Snow Picket (mu névé/snow mukole) anyi Ice Screw (mu blue glacial ice) anyi ku luseke lua tshilamba tshiebe tshia kukanga nabi tshianza Friction Hitch (Autoblock, Klemheist, anyi Prusik) anyi Micro Traxion ku tshingoma pa tshilamba tshikole tshia tshingoma, ne uya kumpala bitekete bitekete too ne padi tshingoma tshimbusha 100% ya bujitu bua tshingoma ku tshilamba tshiebe.
4. KUENDI nansha kakese too ne ku muelelu wa mushiku wa tshina tshia mabue UNBELAYED: Bibumba bia neje bidi bipita tshimanu tshia neje tshia tshina tshia mâyi tshia metre 1 too ne ku 3 (3 too ne ku 10 feet) ku nseke yonso ibidi. Misangu yonso ikala mukuatshike ku tshintu tshibidi tshidi tshilamakaja ku diambuluisha dia tshilamba tshiebe tshia belay ne enza mateta a neje kunyima kua 30 centimètres (12 inches) ne tshiamu tshiebe tshia ice axe anyi avalanche probe paudi wenda uya ku mishiku.
5. Ubuikila mushiku wa crevasse ne tshiamu tshia ice shaft, neige picket, ski, anyi sack back KUMPALA kua kukoka: Wewe mukoke tshingoma tshia glacier tshia milimetre 9 tshiuwule tente bululame pa mushiku wa neje mupepele kayi ne tshibuikidiji, tshingoma netshikose diakamue metre 1 anyi 2 (3 anyi 6 feet) muinshi mua mishiku ya fromaje wa neje ("" ne bianza buludiludi ku plafond wa neje udi mubandile bua kabikadi mua kupita pa mushiku to.
6. Sungula mushindu wa kupatula lukasa bua nsombelu wa muntu udibu bashipe (Drop-Loop 2:1, Fixed-Rope Self-Ascent, anyi 3:1 / 6:1 Z-Pulley): Shi mubandi udi mukuluke kena mutapike ne udi mumanye, kuela Bight of Rope (Drop-Loop) mupepele ne carabiner pa tshilamba tshiabu kudi kuenza 2:1 haul muaba udibu mua kudikoka mu minite 3, anyi badi mua kubanda pa muonji mushindame ku diambuluisha dia Chest + Foot Prusiks. Lama bintu bia 3:1 Z-Pulley anyi 6:1 Drop-Loop + Z-Pulley bua bantu badi batapike, kabayi bamanye lungenyi anyi batshioke.

Mutshi wa dipangadika: kumbukila ku dikuluka dia mu tshina too ne ku dipatuka dia pa mutu¶

Londa tshilejelu etshi tshia dipandisha dia mikuna tshidi tshienza mudimu kudi balombodi ba mikuna ya IFMGA / AMGA ne bisumbu bia dipandisha dia mikuna bia ditunga:

flowchart TD
    Fall["Mubandi udi upitshila mu tshibumba tshia neje mu tshitupa tshia mabue"] --> Arrest["1. Tshisumbu tshia pa mutu pa buloba tshidi tshienza mudimu wa kudikanda diakamue (Crampon Feet UP) ne tshidi tshilama bujitu"]
    Arrest --> VictimAct["2. Mu tshikondo tshimue munda mua tshina: Muntu udibu bashipe udi ubuela mu tshitupa tshia dikasa tshia Prusik bua kuepuka disama dia suspension ne udi upuekesha tshilamba pa Tether"]
    VictimAct --> Anchor["3. Musungidi udi wibaka tshingoma tshia kumpala (tshiamu tshia neje / tshiamu tshia mashika) ne udi ufila bujitu bua mionji ku diambuluisha dia tshiamu tshia dikokangana natshi / Progress Capture"]
    Anchor --> Backup["4. Musungidi udi unyema ku Belay, udi wibaka tshingoma tshibidi (2-Point Equalized), ne udi usemena pabuipi ne mushiku wa Belay padiye wenza makebulula"]
    Backup --> Pad["5. Pad Crevasse Lip (Ice Axe / Picket / Ski / Pack) & Assess Victim Condition"]
    Pad --> Cond{"6. Muntu udi mukuluke udi ne lungenyi, kayi mutapike, ne udi mua kuambuluisha anyi?"}
    Cond -->|"Eyowa: Ndi mumanye ne kayi mutapike"| Fast["Mushindu A: Muntu udibu bashipe udi udibandila nkayende ku nkamba mishindame ku diambuluisha dia tshiadi ne makasa<br/>Mushindu B: Uteke nkamba ku tshilamba tshia muntu udibu bashipe bua kuenza lubilu lua 2:1 Drop-Loop Haul"]
    Cond -->|"Tòo: Mutapike, mupangile lungenyi, anyi mutshioke"| Haul["Rig 3:1 Z-Pulley (2-3 Rescuers on Surface) OR 6:1 Drop-Loop C+Z Pulley (1 Solo Rescuer on Surface)"]
    Fast --> Lip["7. Kuambuluisha pa mishiku milengeja -> Kumbuka muaba udi njiwu -> Kuondopa disama dia hypothermie mu njila"]
    Haul --> Lip

Tshitupa 1: Kuimanyika dikuluka dia mabue a mashika (Dikuata dia mabue a mashika ne mishindu ya dikuata dia tshisumbu)¶

Kumpala kua kuteka dikasa pa tshibandabanda tshibuikila kudi neje, muntu yonso wa mu tshisumbu tshia mionji udi ne bua kuenda ne kakuyi tshitupa (nsongo mikole pankatshi pa bantu badi babandila mikuna idi mutantshi wa metre 10 too ne ku 15 / metre 33 too ne ku 50), kuambula bintu bibidi bia kuela nabi mishiku (anyi Micro Traxion + Tibloc) bakadi basuike ku tshilamba tshiabu, ne bakuate tshingoma tshiabu tshia mabue a mashika mu Self-Arrest Grip (tshianza pa mutu ne tshianza tshinene muinshi mua adze, wangate tshitangile kunyima mu piolet-canne).

1. Tshilongelu tshia 4-Step Individual Ice Axe Self-Arrest Drill¶

Nansha wewe nkayebe muele pa tshibandabanda tshikole tshia neje anyi mukuluke kumpala ku makasa ebe kudi muena dibaka nebe udi upona mu tshina tshidi kumpala kuebe, enza ngendu inayi eyi mu sekonde umuepele: 1. Kukuata tshingoma tshia bianza bibidi: - Tshianza tshia kuulu: Kuata mutu wa tshingoma tshia mabue a mashika bikole pa mutu pa adze/shaft junction bua tshiamu tshia pick tshileje panyima/kuinshi mutangile ku neje (tshianza tshiebe tshidi tshikuba adze wa buitshi bua kukututa ku mpala). - Tshianza tshia kuinshi: Kuata tshitupa tshia kuinshi tshia tshingoma pa mutu pa tshiamu tshia mitaku ferrule/spike. 2. Koka tshingoma tshikole mu tshiadi tshieba: - Kanga mutu wa tshingoma anu kuulu ne kumpala kua dikaya diebe dia munda (dikaya didi ku luseke lua tshikokedi), ne tshingoma tshienda tshipita mu tshiadi tshiebe too ne ku tshiadi tshiebe tshikuabu. Kulekedi mutu wa tshingoma upatuka kule ne dikaya diebe muaba udi dikoka dia neje mua kukupatula mu tshianza tshiebe to (chicken-winging). 3. Udimuke mutangile ku luseke lua Pick pa difu diebe (mutu muulu): - Misangu yonso, udi mua kuela ku luseke ludi tshintu tshia kuela natshi bintu (kuenda kule ne tshintu tshia kuela natshi bintu kudi kupatula tshintu mu bianza biebe). - Shi uvua mukudimunyibue mutu panshi (mutu-kumpala panshi mu tshibandabanda), ela nsongo ya tshingoma mu neje ku luseke luebe bu tshintu tshia kunyunguluka bua kupingaja makasa ebe panshi kumpala kua wewe kuela tshintu tshia kuela. 4. Utekesha mukolo webe, wela bujitu pa dikaya diebe/angate, ne ubandishe makasa a CRAMPON: - MUYUKI WA MUSHINDU WA KUVALA BIDIMU: Wewe muvuale bipese bia tshiamu tshia mitaku ku bisabata biebe, inama binu biebe bua kukuata mishiku yebe ya bipese bia bipese 30 centimètres (12 inches) MUulu mu lupepele pambelu pa neje paudi ufina binu biebe ne bikono biebe mu tshibandabanda. Kuendesha 12 steel crampon points mu hard névé paudi wenda unyunguluka ku 25 kilometre ku dîba (15 mph) kudi kukukuata diakamue, kukukosa tibia/fibula anyi kukukuma panyima pa mutu webe pa nshingu webe. - Tangila binu biebe bua kuikala bishindame ne ufina bujitu bua tshiadi tshiebe ne tshia dikaya bitekete bitekete ne bikole panshi pa mutu wa tshingoma tshia mabue a mashika bua tshiamu tshia mitaku tshikuate tshina tshikole tshia frein too ne paudi wimana.

Tshitupa 2: Tshia kuenza wewe muikale mubandi wa mukuna udi mu tshina¶

Wewe mubuele mu tshibumba tshia neje ne muimane pa tshingoma mu bule bua metre 5 too ne ku 20 (16 too ne ku 65 feet) panshi munda mua neje ya bule, bena mudimu nebe badi kulu kabena mua kukumvua bimpe ku diambuluisha dia mushiku wa neje udi mubandile to. Tshiudi wenza mu minite 3 ya kumpala tshidi tshipangisha disama dia tshimpitshimpi, dipanga dia luya, ne dikosa dia mionji:

Tshitupa 1: Upuekesha bujitu bua tshilamba tshia ku makasa diakamue (bua kuepuka disama dia tshitekelu)¶

Paudi ulenga mu tshilamba tshia kubanda natshi, nshinga ya ku makasa idi ifina mishipa ya tshiadi mu tshiadi tshiebe eku maulu ebe alenga kayi wenda kayi ne "pompe wa mifuba" udi upingaja mashi a mu mishipa ku mutshima webe. Mu minite 15 too ne ku 30 (anyi lukasa pikala uvuale tshibombi tshikole), too ne ku 20 pa lukama ya bungi bua mashi adi endakana adi abuela mu mikolo yebe ya kuinshi, ne adi afila dipueka dia tshimpitshimpi dia mudimu wa mutshima, dijimija dia lungenyi (Orthostatic Suspension Syncope), ne hypoxia wa lufu pikala njila wa luya luebe uya kumpala. 1. Buela mu tshitupa tshia makasa ebe (Foot Prusik / Runner) mu tusunsa 60: Muntu yense udi wenza ngendu mu tshibandabanda udi ne tshia kuenda ne tshilamba tshia mu tshiadi ne tshilamba tshile tshia 120-cm (48-inch) tshiamu tshia ku makasa tshia prusik tshilamakaja ku tshingoma (anyi tshilengeja pa tshiamu tshiabu tshia tshiamu tshia nzembu). Lamakaja tshiamu tshia ku makasa ku tshingoma tshia kubandila natshi pa mutu pa tshilamba tshiebe tshia muanda mukulu, ela tshilamba tshiebe tshia ku makasa mu tshilamba tshia kuinshi, ne imana ku dikasa dimue anyi onso abidi kunyima kua tusunsa 30 bua kukolesha misunyi ya tshiadi tshiebe ne ya tshiadi ne kujikija lutatu lua mu tshiadi. 2. Biwikala kuyi ne tshilamba tshia ku makasa: Koka binu bionso bibidi muulu mutangile ku tshiadi tshiebe (Muaba wa kusomba / Muaba wa difu) anyi ela nsongo yebe ya crampon bimpe ku tshimanu tshia neje (kuyi ukosa tshingoma) bua kumbusha bujitu pa mijilu yebe ya tshiadi. 3. Umbusha tshibombi tshieba tshikole pa tshilamba tshia kukanga nabi: Tshibombi tshia 15- too ne ku 25-kilogramme (33- to 55-pound) tshidi tshikoka mubidi webe wa kuulu panyima (tshikukoka mutu panshi wewe kuyi muvuale tshilamba tshia ku tshiadi) ne tshidi tshivudija bujitu bua bungi pikala bena mudimu nebe ne bua kukukoka. Kukanga tshiamu tshia kukanga natshi ne tshiamu tshia 120-cm (48-inch) dyneema sling from the harness belay loop to the haul loop of your backpack, open the pack shoulder straps, and unbuckle the pack for your legs your legs from your belay loop (kuena mua kuela tshibuta tshiebe muinshi mua crevasse to, bualu tshidi tshikuata insulation webe ne bintu bikuabu bia kukusungila nabi).

Tshitupa 2: Dilongolola bua kudibandila nkayebe ku tshingoma tshishindame ("Prusiking / Texas Kick System")¶

Shi kuena mutapike kadi mumvue tshingoma tshidi pa mutu tshienda tshiimana munkatshi mua minite 3 anyi 5 (mbuena kuamba ne: muena dibaka nebe udi pa mutu pa mâyi mmuibake tshingoma ne muele bujitu buebe pa mutu patshi), udilongolole bua kubanda tshingoma wewe nkayebe ku diambuluisha dia Two-Prusik / Ascender System:

      [Anchored Climbing Rope Above]
                   |
         +---------+---------+
         | UPPER ASCENDER    |  <-- 1. Waist / Chest Prusik (3-Wrap Prusik,
         | (Waist / Chest)   |         Autoblock, or Petzl Micro Traxion)
         +---------+---------+         Clipped short to Harness Belay Loop
                   |
         +---------+---------+
         | LOWER ASCENDER    |  <-- 2. Foot Prusik (5-6mm Cord or Petzl Tibloc)
         | (Foot Loop Sling) |         Connected to a 120cm Foot Stirrup Sling
         +---------+---------+         (AND backed up to Belay Loop for safety)
                   |
         [Tie-In Figure-8 Knot] --> Re-clip dynamic rope bight every 3 meters

1. Somba kabidi pa Prusik webe wa kuulu (mu tshiadi) bua ikale uluma ku tshingoma ne ikuate bujitu bua mubidi webe.
2. Ela Prusik webe wa kuinshi (Dikasa) kuulu kua tshingoma too ne kuinshi kua prusik wa mu tshiadi, wela dikasa diebe muulu mutangile ku tshiadi tshiebe.
3. Imana mululame pa tshilamba tshiebe tshia ku makasa (kukoka ne misunyi yebe mikole ya quadriceps, kuyi ukoka ne maboko ebe nansha kakese), ne padi tshilamba tshiebe tshienda tshibandila, ela Upper (Waist) Prusik UP the rope ne usomba kabidi panshi patshi.
4. Dilama dia bukubi didi dilomba paudi ubanda: Paudi ubanda pa tshingoma, tshingoma tshia kubandila tshidi tshienda tshikola netshikale kuinshi kuebe. Ku metre 2 anyi 3 (maboko 6 too ne ku 10), ela tshilamba tshia Figure-Eight-on-a-Bight mu tshingoma tshia kubandila tshidi kuinshi kuebe ne utshisuike ku tshilamba tshiebe tshia kubandila ne tshiamu tshia kukanga natshi bua se: tshingoma tshia prusik tshiotshi tshisesuke anyi tshisunguluke, kuena mua kukuluka kupita metre 2 to.
5. Kusabuka mushiku wa neje udi mubandile (The Crux): Bualu bujitu buebe budi bukoka tshingoma tshia kubandila munda menemene mu mushiku wa neje mupepele udi pa mutu pebe, nshinga yebe ya prusik neyikuate anu mu tshimanu tshia neje ku mushiku. Imana 1 metre kuinshi kua mushiku, fika pa mutu pa mushiku bua kukuna tshingoma tshiebe tshia mabue a mashika muinshi mua neje udi pa mutu pa tshina, anyi utshikuate mu nshinga muipi / tshilamba tshidi katshiyi ne bujitu tshipueka pa mutu pa tshingoma tshidi ne tshilamba kudi muena dibaka nebe udi pa mutu, bandila mulu mu tshimanu tshia mabue a mashika ne bipese biebe bia mashika, ne mante glacier.

Tshitupa 3: Mukenji wa dipandisha dia pa mutu pa buloba (Kuibaka tshitekelu, kufila bujitu, ne kulongolola tshiamu tshia kuendesha natshi bintu)¶

Shi udi pa mutu pa buloba mukuate bujitu bua muena dibaka nebe udi mukuluke mu mushindu wa kudikanda, kutshinyi ne kuteketshi bua kuimana ne kukoka tshianza pa tshianza muntu wa kilo 90 (200-pound) udi ubanda pa mushiku wa neje: dikokangana dia nkamba munda mua mushiku wa neje didi divudija bukole budi bukengedibua bua kukoka ne 300 pa lukama, bidi biumvuija ne: bidi bilomba 2000 pa lukama kilo (440 pounds) ya dikoka dia mulu bua kubandisha mubandi wa kilo 80 pa muelelu wa neje udi kayi ne tshilamba. Londa ndondo wa malu 5 wa dipandisha:

Tshitupa 1: Enza tshitekelu tshia neje anyi tshia mabue a mashika tshidi katshiyi tshibuela mu bombe paudi ulama dikuluka¶

Paudi ulama mubidi webe panshi mu muaba wa kudikanda ne mukuate tshingoma tshikole, fika ku tshilamba tshiebe ne tshianza tshiebe tshia tshianana ne wenze Primary Transfer Anchor webe panyima pebe anyi ku luseke luebe bilondeshile nsombelu wa pa mutu pa mabue a mashika:

Tshitupa 2: Umbusha bujitu bua muntu udibu bashipe ku tshingoma tshiebe too ne ku tshingoma ("Kunyema ku tshilamba")¶

1. Kosa tshilamba tshia kukanga natshi tshianza tshia Snow Picket anyi Ice Screw tshiudi muteke tshipiatshipia ku carabiner udi kumpala kua tshilamba tshiebe.
2. Suika 3-Wrap Prusik, Klemheist, anyi Autoblock friction hitch (kuenza mudimu ne tshingoma tshia 5-mm too ne ku 7-mm, never slippery flat Dyneema webbing which slides on icy ropes) pa tshingoma tshikole tshidi kumpala kuebe, ANYI clip a Traft Camp Micro/Litzley Progresss pa tshingoma tshikole, ne utshikuate mu tshiamu tshia kukanga natshi tshingoma.
3. Tuta tshintu tshia kukoka natshi (anyi Micro Traxion) mutantshi mule mutangile ku tshingoma tshikole mutangile ku tshina tshidi tshianza tshiebe mua kufika.
4. Ela bitekete bitekete mubidi webe kumpala 15 centimètres (6 inches) panshi mu tshibandabanda: tangila bimpe tshintu tshia kuela natshi tshilamba/tshiamu tshia kuela natshi bintu tshidi tshisuma ne tshipatula bipepele 100% ya bujitu bua muntu udibu bashipe pa tshilamba tshiebe ne pa tshilamba tshia kuela natshi bintu.
5. Padi tshingoma tshia kubanda natshi tshidi pankatshi pa tshingoma tshiebe ne tshisuikidi tshia dikokangana tshienda tshinyanguka, suika tshingoma tshia Overhand / Figure-Eight-on-a-Bight mu tshingoma tshiebe tshia tshikokedi ne utshisuike ku tshiamu tshia kulamakaja natshi bua wikale anu mushindame, pashishe utshipatule anyi utshipatule bikalabi bikengela bua kuenza **Second Backed Backed Echorized Echor ** 11 kunyima kua tshitekelu tshia kumpala.

Tshitupa 3: Semena pabuipi ne kujika mishiku ya Crevasse bimpe¶

1. Ela tshilamba tshieba tshia kuela mu tshingoma tshia kubandila (tshidi tshilamakaja ku tshingoma tshidi tshilamakaja) ku diambuluisha dia tshiamu tshia kukanga natshi bua kuena mua kukuluka mu tshina wewe nkayebe pikala mushiku mukuluke.
2. Tangila neje idi ku meso kuebe na tshiamu tshieba tshia mashika anyi tshikebelu tshia mabue a mashika paudi wenda uya ku muelelu too ne paudi upeta tshimanu tshia neje tshikole tshia bushuwa ne tshibumba tshia neje tshidi tshibandile.
3. Teka tshilamba tshia ku mishiku muinshi mua njila wa nkamba: Ela Ice Axe, Snow Picket, Ski, anyi Foam Sleeping Pad / Backpack mu nseke ya mishiku bua tshingoma tshia kukoka natshi tshienda tshienda bimpe pa mutu pa tshiamu tshikole/tshilamba tshidi tshienda tshibuela mu neje.
4. Wela muena dibaka nebe ne dîyi dikole ne: "UDI BIMPAKANE anyi? UDI MUA KUBANDUKA MU MUSHINDU ANYI KUENZA MUSHINDU WA KUJIKIJA?"

Tshitupa 4: Kuenza mishindu isatu ya dikuatshisha dia mashinyi (2:1 Drop-Loop, 3:1 Z-Pulley, ne 6:1 C+Z Pulley)¶

Fuanyikija ne ulongolole mushindu muimpe wa dikuata bintu bilondeshile bungi bua tshisumbu tshiebe ne nsombelu wa muntu udibu bashipe:

               3:1 Z-PULLEY (Z-DRAG) SCHEMATIC ON GLACIER SURFACE

  [Backed-Up Snow/Ice Anchor]
              |
              +---> [Progress-Capture Pulley / Ratchet Prusik]
                              /                 \
        (Load Strand to      /                   \  (Redirected Haul Strand)
         Crevasse Lip)      /                     \
                           v                       v
                 [Tractor Prusik + Pulley] <--------+
                  (Slide Forward Toward Lip to Reset)
                          /
                         /  <--- RESCUERS PULL THIS TAIL UP THE GLACIER (3:1)
                        v
            ======================== (Padded Crevasse Lip: Ice Axe / Ski)
                        |
                        v
               [Fallen Climber]

Tshitupa 4: Kupatula muntu udibu bashipe ku mishiku ne luondapu lua disama dia Suspension Syndrome ne Hypothermie¶

1. Kuambuluisha muntu udibu bakengesha ku metre wa ndekelu ku mishiku:
2. Metre wa ndekelu ku mushiku wa crevasse ke muaba udi mputa ne bipupu bienzeka bualu tshifu anyi nshinga wa muntu udibu bashipe udi ukuma ku mishiku.
3. Shi udi na bapandishi babidi pa mutu pa mayi, enza bua musungidi umua (mulamakaja bimpe ku tshingoma) alue ku mushiku udi ne tshilamba, wela Hand-Loop Sling muipi mukuabu panshi bua mubandi akuate, anyi ufike panshi bua kulombola tshilamba tshiabu tshia nshinga pa mutu pa tshingoma tshidi ne tshilamba bua katshikuatshiki to.
4. Diondapangana dia panyima pa dipandisha (Diteka dia muaba mulelela bua disama dia tshimpitshimpi ne dikuluka dia mubidi):
5. Padibu bakoka muntu udi ubanda mukuna mutantshi wa metre 5 (16 feet) kunyima kua tshina tshia mabue mu muaba wa bukubi:
   • Bikala muntu udi ubanda mukuna uvua muele mu tshilamba tshiabu munkatshi mua minite mipite pa 15 anyi 20 ANYI wenda unyunguluka bikole / mutekete: Umulame mutekete / mutangile panshi (anyi mulale kakese bikalaye ne lungenyi ne udi ne disama dia mupuya, wenda ushintuluka bipepele bua kulua mutangile pa tshibandilu tshidi katshiyi ne luya lua bungi) ne wimana bua kubenga kuya nende diakamue**. Anu bu mudi dibuela mu mayi mashika, dipingana dia tshimpitshimpi dia mashi mashika, a aside, adi ne potassium mivule misangisha mu mikolo ya kuinshi (Afterdrop ne Reperfusion) udi mua kujula arrhythmies ventriculaire pikalabu kabayi balombola bibi.
   • Bakuba ku neje ya glace ku diambuluisha dia tshibombi tshionso ne tshilamba tshia kulala tshia mu tshisumbu, ubateke munda mua tshilamba tshia hypothermie (tshilamba tshia panshi + tshibombi tshia kulala + tshibombi tshia bivy / tshilamba tshia muulu tshidi tshikuba luya), ne ulonde tshietu hypothermie wa mu tshipela ne bulombodi bua kupanduka ku mashika ne disama dia muulu (AMS, HAPE, HACE) bulombodi.

Nkonko itubu bela misangu ya bungi¶

Bua tshinyi udi ne tshia kubandisha makasa ebe mu lupepele paudi wenza mudimu wa dikuba dia tshiamu tshia ice axe paudi muvuale bilamba bia nsongo?¶

Paudi wenda upuekela mu neje mikole ya glace anyi mu glace ne lubilu lukole paudi muvuale bilamba bia tshiamu tshia 10-point anyi 12-point crampons, kulekela minu yebe ya makasa anyi bikono bilenga neje kudi kuenza bua biamu bia mitaku bikuate diakamue bu tshintu tshia kuela natshi. Pamutu pa kukuimanyika bimpe, kukuata tshiamu tshia crampon ne lubilu lukole kudi mua kutshibula tshikasa tshiebe ne tshiadi tshiebe (tshipupu tshia mu mikuna tshia mu tshijengu tshia kale) anyi kukukosa ne bukole tshitupa tshia kuinshi tshia mubidi pa mutu pa mutu webe mu dipingana dia panyima, kukupatula tshingoma tshia mabue a mashika mu bianza biebe. Kuinama maboko eba bua tshifulu tshieba tshikale mutantshi wa santimetre 30 (12 inches) pa neje paudi ufina binu biebe, bikono, ne tshingoma tshia neje mu tshibandabanda kudi kukupetesha frein muimpe ne mukokeshibue.

Ntshinyi tshidi disama dia tshiadi (syndrome de suspension) munda mua tshina ne mmunyi muudi mua kutshikanda?¶

Disama dia suspension syndrome (orthostatic harness hang intolerance) didi dienzeka padi muntu udi ubanda mukuna ulenga kayi unyema mu tshilamba tshia kusomba natshi ne maulu ende malenga kuinshi kuende: mionji ya ku makasa idi ifina mijilu ya mu tshiadi mu tshiadi eku bukole budi bukokela bintu pa buloba busangisha too ne ku 20 pa lukama ya mashi a mubidi mu maulu a kuinshi kakuyi mifuba ya mifuba idi ipingaja mashi bua kuenza mudimu ne mutshima. Mu minite 15 to ne ku 30, dipatukila dia mutshima didi dipueka bikole, difikisha ku disama dia tshiadi, dijimija dia lungenyi, ne didi mua kufikisha ku lufu lua hypoxia anyi dijika dia mutshima pikala njila wa luya wa mubandi udi kayi mumanye tshintu mupangile. Ubwanya kuepuka diakamue pa kuela tshingoma tshia Foot Prusik pa tshingoma tshia kubandila pa mutu pa tshingoma tshiebe tshia kukanga ne kuimana mu tshingoma tshia makasa kunyima kua sekonde 30 yonso bua kupompa misunya ya ku makasa ebe ne kumbusha bujitu ku mikaba ya mu tshiadi.

Udiku ne tshia kuenza mudimu ne 2:1 drop-loop anyi 3:1 Z-pulley bua kupatula muntu mu tshina anyi?¶

Shi muntu udi mukuluke udi mumanye, kayi mutapike, ne udi ne nkamba mikumbane pa mutu pa buloba bua kufika kudiye, 2:1 Drop-Loop (C-pulley) udi ne lubilu lua bungi ne mupepele: udi anu mua kupuekesha tshitupa tshia nkamba ne tshiamu tshia kukanga natshi bua muntu udibu bashipe ateke ku tshilamba tshiabu tshia kukanga nabi, ne padi muntu udibu bashipe ukoka panshi pa nshinga udi mushindame paudi umukoka strand, udi upeta diakalenga dia 4:1 ne zero mid-haul resets. Ino, shi muntu udi mukuluke kayi mumanye tshidiye wenza, ne diboko anyi mifuba mityumuke, anyi kuyi ne tshingoma tshikumbane pa mutu pa buloba bua kumuela tshingoma, udi ne bua kuibaka tshiamu tshia 3:1 Z-Pulley (anyi tshiamu tshia 6:1) buludiludi pa tshiamu tshia kumpala tshia bujitu.

Miaba mifumina¶

• Bulongolodi bua matunga masanga bua balombodi ba mikuna (IFMGA / UIAGM) & Tshisumbu tshia balombodi ba mikuna ya mu Amerike (AMGA): Alpine & Ski Mountaineering Manual: Glacier Rope Team Spacing, Snow Picket & Ice Screw Anchors, Escaping the Belay, and 2:1 / 3:1 / 6:1 Crevasse Haul Systems.
• Tshibambalu tshia buloba bujima tshia dipandisha dia mikuna (ICAR Komite wa malu a luondapu, ICAR MEDCOM): Mibelu ya buobumue idi itangila dikuba ne diondapa dia disama dia tshiadi (disama dia Harness Hang) ne dia Glacial Hypothermia mu njiwu ya Crevasse.
• Bantu badi babandila mikuna: Dibanda dia mikuna: Budikadidi bua mikuna (tshibejibeji tshia 10), Nshapita wa 16 (Luendu lua mu neje ne didikuata dia tshingoma tshia mashika) ne Nshapita wa 17 (Luendu lua mu mabue a mashika ne dipandisha dia mu tshina tshia mabue).
• Petzl Technical Institute: Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Technical Manual (Micro Traxion Progress-Capture Hauling, Tibloc Tractor Rigging, and Over-the-Lip Friction Reduction).
• Tshibambalu tshia madimi a ditunga dia États-Unis (NPS, Mount Rainier & Denali Climbing Rangers): Glacier Mountaineering Safety & Crevasse Extraction Field Protocols.

Malu adi apetangana¶

• Luya lua mu tshipela, ditshioka dia mashika, ne dilengeja dia kabidi
• Disama dia muulu: AMS, HAPE, ne HACE dimanya ne dipueka
• Dinaya dia ski, dinaya dia snowboard, ne dipanduka ku lufu lua mabue a mashika
• Njiwu ya kubanda pa mabue ne ya dikuluka dia mabue, dinyema dia belay, ne disama dia tshitekelu
• Nomba ya njiwu bilondeshile ditunga