Kaɓirgal Belay jippinaangal e dow kaaƴe keewɗe walla Belayer jolnaa e nder bolt gadano: Munter Hitch Escape¶

Fumbling e jippinde kaɓirgal maa belay (ATC / Reverso) walla kaɓirgal ballitoowal fereeji (GriGri) 200 meeter dow yeeso kaaƴe gonɗe e dow ŋoral - walla jogaade ŋoral ɓurngal teeŋtude ƴetta whipper tiiɗɗo mo yanks belayer leydi dow e wedges junngo mum en walla kaɓirgal mum en e nder quickdraw bolt gadano - ina sosa ɗoon e ɗoon ŋoral ŋoral-work crisis. So tawii alaa fereeji mekanik, alpiniste waawaa e dow jam nanngude ardiiɗo faɗo, addude ɗiɗaɓo, walla rappel ruttaade e leydi e huutoraade juuɗe tan (which will burn through skin to the bone in less than 2 meters of rope slip). Ko noon kadi, so gardiiɗo fadiiɗo ina fawii e dow ŋoral tawa ina ŋoŋɗi, tawa teddeendi ɓanndu mum ina fawii e dow ŋoral harness belay loop maa, aɗa ŋoŋɗi e ɓanndu maa e dow ŋoral so wonaa tawa aɗa anndi no ŋoral nguurndam ngal fawirtaa e ŋoral (Escaping the Belay).

So tawii alpiniste heɓii faɗo ardotooɗo e gaañannde hoore, ɓuuɓri udditiindi, ɓuuɓri suspension, walla o ŋoŋɗi e dow mahol keewngol pittaali caggal nde niɓɓiɗi, noddu limoore emergency nokku maa (911 to leyɗeele dentuɗe Amerik e Kanadaa, 112 e nder Dental Orop fof, 999 e nder leydi Angalteer), udditde lampa SOS satelit (Garmin inReach mala PLB), walla ƴeewto regginorde men winndereere nde limooje caɗtuɗe so tawii jolngo ɓoggol ngol ina udditaa e jolngo Munter-Mule dow junngo. Ngam heɓde ardorde kisal vertikal e alpine ɓurnde yaajde, ƴeew aksidaaji ƴeeŋtugol kaaƴe e ƴeeŋtugol kaaƴe, canyoneering slot kanyon ɓuuɓri gardiiɗo jolngo e ɓoggol jolni e rappel, e crevasse fall, yah-ngartaa glacier, nanngugol hoore mum, e ɓuuɓgol pont nees. Rewrude e Munter hitch rigging, kuule karabiner-reende ɓalndu, yaltinde pinndi adanndi, e porotokolle dogdu jolngo jolngo les.

Waɗde ɗum jooni¶

1. WOTO MEƊƊI ƳETTUDE JUUNƊO FREE MAA E ƊEƊƊE ƊEƊƊE NGURNDAM: So tawii ƴoogirde lewru yanii, fawi ma e koyɗe maa e nder ŋoral gadanal walla e ŋoral kaaƴe, jogo junngo fereeji maa ina tiiɗi les kaɓirgal belay ( belay device ).or maintain thumb-on-cam mechanical advantage only after stabilizing). So a jippiima e kaɓirgal maa belay e ankere multi-pitch tawa alɗuɓe ɗiɗo ɓee fof ina taƴaa e kisal rewrude e tethers ankere keeriiɗo (PAS walla clove hitch), hoolkiso wonde yahooɓe ɓee fof ina tiiɗi hade mum en meemde jolngo ɓoggol ngol.
2. SUƁO PEER MAWƊO (HMS) KARABINER COOKKOL NGAM LOMTITOL KUUTORGAL BELAY TOPPOL: Ƴeewto jokkorgal maa harness, cuɓo-ɗaa jokkorgal maa ɓurngal yaajde, cirƴam karabiin coktirgal nanndungal e per (marked with an encircled "H" for Halbmastwurfsicherung / Munter Hitch). Karabiner ɓuuɓɗo mo mbaadi D ina nannga ɓoggi ɓoggi ɗii mbele ɗi mbaawa ɓuuɓde no moƴƴi e nder basket oo so ɗi mbayliima hakkunde yoɓde slack e ƴettude ɓoggi ɗii.
3. HAKKIRDE HITCH ITALIEN / MUNTER DIRECTEMENT SUR ON CARABINERE HMS: Waɗde loope ɗiɗi luurondirɗe e nder ɓoggol ƴeeŋgol (like closing the pages of an open book walla werlaade feccere ɗiɗi e mbaydiiji luurondirɗi), ɓuuɓna karabiner coktirgal HMS e nder loope ɗiɗi ɗee kala, ɓuuɓna damal coktirgal ngal haa laaɓa. Hooƴu hitch oo e ɓuuɓnude jokkere enɗam ɗiɗi ɗee kala : ina foti ɓuuɓde no feewi e jokkere enɗam yaajnde e nder jokkere perel nde ina jibina 2.0 to 3.0 kN de friction capstan so jolngo fereeji ina jogaa parallel e jolngo jolngo.
4. KEEP THE BRAKE STRAND AWAY FROM THE LOCKING GATE SLEEVE: When belaying or rappelling on a Munter hitch, always orient the carabiner and your brake hand so the moving brake strand rubs against the solid spine side of the carabiner - never across the screwgate barrel, where moving rope friction can spin the locking sleeve uddita e unclip ɓoggol les load.
5. SOKKOL KUUTORGAL BELAY TEDDINGAL WALLA HITCH MUNTER KUUTORGAL MULE DO JUUƊO (MMO): So tawii gollodiiɗo maa yanii, fawii e dow ŋoral tawa anndaaka walla gaañii, jogo ŋoral fereeji ɗii e junngo wooto, jokkondir Mule Hitch baɗaaɗo e ŋoral Overhand (Mule-Overhand) e sara jolngo jolngo taut dow kaɓirgal belay walla Munter hitch. Ɗuum ina addana system oo timmude e juuɗe tawa ina heddii ina waawi yaltineede e les teddeendi ɓanndu timmundu.
6. WAƊDE TEŊKERE E ANKOR E PRUSIK WALLA KLEMHEIST NGAM DOƊƊUDE BELAY: So belay oo udditaama e Mule-Overhand, jokkondir a 6 to 7 mm naylon prusik ɓoggol (walla a Klemheist jokkere enɗam e jokkere enɗam Dyneema/nylon) e dow jokkere enɗam tiiɗnde yeeso jokkere maa, ɓuuɓna wutte prusik e nder toɓɓere mawnde ankere rewrude e karabiner coktirgal ɗiɗaɓal e jokkere Munter-Mule njuɓɓudi, e seeɗa seeɗa yoo jokkere enɗam maa Mule knot mbele ankere ndee ina ƴetta percentage cli01.

Lekki kuulal : kaɓirgal belay jippinaangal, pullo-bolt gadano, e dogdu belay¶

Huutoro ndeeɗoo nate hisnude tikkere ngam suɓaade jokkol moƴƴol e doggol jolngo mekanik:

flowchart TD
    Crisis["Kiriis ɓoggi dartiiɗi e dow Pitch keewɗo walla Sport Crag"] --> Scenario{"1. Hol Emergency mo waɗi?"}
    Scenario -->|"Jippii ATC / GriGri to Anker Pitch keewɗo"| PickHMS["Suɓo Karabiner coktirgal ɓurngal mawnude e mbaadi pear (HMS) (Kuutoro 2 coktirgal damal luurondirngal so tawii ko ɓoggol ɗiɗmol jippotoongol)"]
    PickHMS --> TieMunter["Tie Munter Hitch: Waɗde loope ɗiɗi hono uddude deftere udditiinde, ɓuuɓna HMS rewrude e ɗiɗo fof, ɓuuɓna damal udditaa"]
    TieMunter --> CheckSpine["ƳEEWTO TEŊKERE: Hoolkiso jolngo fereeji ina doga e dow SOLID SPINE karabiner, meeɗaa dow jokkorgal screwgate"]
    CheckSpine --> Mode{"Belayde walla Rappel?"}
    Mode -->|"Belaying Ardiiɗo walla Jokkuɗo"| BelayMunter["Joggo jolngo fereeji paralel e jolngo jolngo (180-deg wrap) ngam ɓurde ɓuuɓde; ɓoorno-ɗaa wutteeji ɓaleeji"]
    Mode -->|"Rappelling Gooto walla Ɗiɗi"| RappelMunter["Rig otoblok/prusik juuɗe tataɓere e dow loop koyngal les Munter; jippaade seeɗa ngam ustude ɓuuɓri ɓoggol"]
    Scenario -->|"Belayer Pulli Up & Pinni E 1st Bolt"| BoltPinch["Waɗde junngo Frein ina cokki; Brace koyɗe e dow mahol kaaƴe ngam fiyde hips caggal 15 cm e unpin junngo e quickdraw"]
    BoltPinch --> Unclip1st{"Mbele Aɗa waawi ɓuuɓnude ɓoggol e 1st Bolt?"}
    Unclip1st -->|"Alpiniste Annduɗo & Ɓooyɗo"| LowerDown["Seese-seese ñamminde slack walla unclip 1st draw e junngo welngo nde wootere koyngal-braced ko noon belayer jippirta caggal e leydi"]
    Scenario -->|"Fallen Climber ina fawii e gite / ina gaañiiɗo e dow ɓoggol"| LockMule["ƊATAL 1: Haɓɓude Mule Hitch + Backup dow juuɗe e dow jolngo jolngo ngam udditde Belay kaɓirgal juuɗe-free"]
    LockMule --> HitchLoad["ƊATAL 2: Ɗaɓɓu 3-Wrap Prusik walla Klemheist e dow Taut jolngo jolngo dow kaɓirgal Belay"]
    HitchLoad --> AnchorLink["ƊATAL 3: Yaajnude Prusik haa toɓɓere mawnde ankere huutoraade Sling + HMS Munter-Mule"]
    AnchorLink --> ReleaseHar["ƊATAL 4: Pop Harness Mule Knot & Seese-seese ñamminde ɓoggol haa jolngo 100% to Anchor Prusik; Sokkit Harness"]

Faandaare 1: No lomtirten kaɓirgal belay dogngal e Munter Hitch (Italian Hitch)¶

Kala ƴeeŋoowo - so tawii ko ƴeeŋoowo dingiral e dow haayre wootere walla ƴeeŋoowo e dow ŋoral kaaƴe alpine 15 - ina foti waawde haɓɓude e huutoraade Munter Hitch (Halbmastwurfsicherung / HMS / Italian Hitch) gite ɓutte e junngo wooto. Hitch Munter ko hitch ɓuuɓɗo gonɗo e laabi ɗiɗi, ɗaɓɓoowo zero hardware belay keeriiɗo - ko jolngo tan e karabiner coktirgal.

1. Joometiri yiyngo Ɗatal-Ɗatal e Haɓɓude Munter Hitch¶

Rewru e ndee ɗoo doggol juuɗe 4-toɓɓere laaɓtunde ngam waasde jogaade Clove Hitch coktirgal walla loop slip mo jogaaki: 1. Pinch a Horizontal Bight of Rope: Jogaade ɓoggol ngol e dow ŋoral yeeso ɓalndu maa, juuɗe maa ɗiɗi ɗee fof ina ceerti 30 santimeeteer (12 inch), juuɗe maa ina njiyloo ma (thumbs pointing outward away from each other). 2. Wirtu Koppi ɗiɗi ɗii fof nder Faade e ɓanndu maa ngam waɗde loopeeji ɗiɗi ("Deftere udditiinde"): - Wirlo junngo maa ñaamo e nder mbele wuttulo maa ina toɗɗii ɓalndu maa, mbaɗa Loop #1 (to ŋorol ngol taƴata yeeso). - Wirlo junngo maa nano e bannge daarorgal (walla ngaddaa loope ɗiɗi ɗee bannge-bannge hono uddude coftal deftere udditiinde). - Hoolkiso Yiyngo Ko adii Taƴde: Ƴeew loope ɗiɗi jooɗiiɗe bannge e bannge. Ɗatal hakkundeewal jokkondirngal e ɓoggi ɗiɗi ɗii ina foti jooɗaade e bannge gooto (ina waɗa ponndol "U" seeɗa walla "spring" hakkunde ɓoggi ɗiɗi ɗii), wutteeji ɗiɗi juutɗi ɗii ina njalta e banngeeji luurondirɗi ɗii. (So loope ɗiɗi ɗee taƴii e hakkunde no "X" nii, aɗa haɓɓi Clove Hitch, ɗum jamma solid, ɗum waylataa.) 3. Clip Karabiner maa HMS pear-shaped coktirgal rewrude e loopeeji ɗiɗi ɗii fof e loop Belay / Anchor: - Waɗtu nofru karabin maa coktirgal jaajngal nanndungal e perel e nder ɓoggi ɓoggi ɗiɗi ɗii fof, ɓuuɓna ɗum e nder ɓoggi belay harness maa (ngam belaying/rappelling lead) walla to bannge toɓɓere mawnde anchor (ngam addude dow sekonnde jokkorde ummoraade dow), e ɓurtu ɓoggol coktirgol ngol udditaa. 4. Test gollal ko adii nde loowdi: - Pullol tiiɗngol e dow Climber (Load) Strand: ɓoggi ɗiɗi gonɗi e jokkorgal Munter ɗii maa ɓuuɓtu (invert) rewrude e ɓuuɓri yaajndi karabiner perel e pop softuɗo e cinch les e saraaji jolngo jolngo. - Jooni noon, ƴettu Brake Strand : jolngo ngoo maa rutto caggal e bannge goɗɗo rewrude e basket oo. Ndeen gollal ɓuuɓngal otomatik ko kañum addanta Munter hitch yoɓde slack (so gardiiɗo ina ƴetta) e nanngude fall (so gardiiɗo ina fadi) tawa meeɗaani jolnude ɓoggol ngol.

2. Mekanik fereeji Munter Hitch e Hakkille "Gate-Rub".¶

Nandugol e kaɓirgal ATC tuubaako ɗo ɓuuɓol fereeji ummotoo ko e ɓuuɓnude ɓoggol ngol e nder S-curve e sara barme karabiner e junngo maa fereeji ɓuuɓngo LEY (toward your hip), jolngo Munter ina addana jolngo mum adanngo gila e jolngo fereeji ngo ina taaroo e pinngude jolngo jolngo ngoo e hoore mum (rope-on-rope capstan friction):

3. Kaɓirɗe Belay / Rappel Improvisée So Aɗa Jogii Karabineeji Oval (The Carabiner Brake)¶

Hol ko woni so aɗa yiɗi rappel pitch vertical juutɗo e dow ɓoggi ɗiɗi caggal nde njippiɗaa ATC maa, aɗa yiɗi daɗde e kinking ɓoggi tiiɗɗi (hocking) saabi ɗum ko hitch Munter? So aɗa jogii karabineruuji nay haa jeegom gonɗi e mbaydi D e dow jokkorgal maa, aɗa waawi mooftude Monster / Carabiner Brake ɓooyɗo e nder leƴƴanɗe 45 (kuutoragol karabineeji ɗiɗi ɓuuɓɗi no kaɓirgal nii e karabineeji ɗiɗi gonɗi e dow ŋoral gonɗi e dow ŋoral S limre-joyaɓere walla Rappel Rack). Kono, wonande 95 e nder teemedere e jolngooji keewɗi, HMS Munter Hitch + Leg-Loop Autoblock ɓuri yaawde, ina ɗaɓɓi geɗe ɗiɗi tan, ina gollira kadi jolngooji e jolngooji.

Faandaare 2 : Wuurde nde dogdu ƴaañorgal ɓurngal teeŋtude ngal fawi belayer oo e nder bolt gadano oo¶

Nde a 90 kg (200 lb) lead climber fadi dow bolt ɗiɗaɓo walla tataɓo nde belayed e a 55 kg (120 lb) gollodiiɗo dariiɗo e leydi tawa alaa ankara leydi (1.6:1 weight ratio), reende doole ina uddita belayer ɓurɗo leeɓde 3 haa 5 meeteer (10 haa 16 feet) feewde dow e nder weeyo. E nder feccere leƴƴannde, belayer oo ina ɓuuɓtoo e nder ŋoral haayre ndee e quickdraw bolt gadano.

1. Anatomi "Pinch-Bolt gadano" e no haɗirtee woppude¶

So tawii belayer oo ina darii no feewi caggal e mahol ngol walla ina jogii junngo fereeji mum toowɗi no feewi dow ATC/GriGri nde jolnaa dow, geɗe ɗiɗi bonɗe ina mbaɗa e bolt gadano oo : 1. The Brake-Hand Pinch: Juuɗe fereeji belayer ina keɓa suuɗaade to bannge hakkunde ɓoggol ummotoongol ngol e karabin les quickdraw gadano oo, ina ɓuuɓna koppi ɗii e doole belayer oo ngam reflexively yooltude ɓoggol ngol. 2. Trap GriGri Cam-Open: So tawii nofru walla kammu kaɓirgal ballitoowal fereeji (GriGri).

Kuulal Ɓooyngal So A Pulnaama Dow E Bolt Gadano:¶

• Ɗatal 1: Waɗde junngo maa fereeji les e ɓuuɓde: Ƴeewto junngo maa fereeji les feewde e hip maa (never above the belay device).
• Ɗatal 2: Aawde koyɗe ɗiɗi ɗee fof e dow yeeso haayre ("Stemming the Wall"): Woto meeɗ ɗaccude ɓanndu maa e pelɓi maa ina ɓuuɓtoo e dow ŋoral bolt. No njirloto-ɗaa dow nii, ngaddaa koppi maa ɗii fof dow, njuppaa e ŋoral paɗe maa ngal, ɓuuɓna ŋoral maa 30 haa 45 santimeeteer (12 haa 18 inch) e dow ŋoral, tawa aɗa woɗɗitoo yeeso kaaƴel ngel. Ɗuum ina jokki e kaɓirgal maa belay e juuɗe laaɓɗe e quickdraw gadano.
• Ɗatal 3: Jippaade So aɗa ƴakka e nder weeyo:
• So tawii faɗo ngoo dartiima, aan (belayer ɓurɗo leeɓde) aɗa fawii e dow leydi fotde meeteruuji 2,5 les Bolt #1 tan, tawa sehil maa ɓurɗo teeŋtude oo ina fawii e leydi hee meeteruuji 4 les Bolt #2.
• Haa 6urcfo teddude oo nannga junngo walla clip e nder mahol ngam 6etde 15 kiloo teddeendi e dow 6oggi, walla seese-seese 6uu6na uddita lefol maa GriGri / nyaam 1 meeteer slack jokkondircfo rewrude e ATC maa mbele a ummoo 15 santimeeteeruuji haa 6uu6ol maa cliw dow gliw. So koyɗe alpiniste oo memii diƴƴe, ɗe njuppa teddeendi ɓoggol ngol, ɗe njippina ma les.
• Hol ko woni so tawii kaɓirgal Belay ina jammii no feewi e nder Quickdraw gadano oo?: Jokku junngo maa fereeji coktirɗi, pus koyɗe maa e dow mahol haayre ngam ŋoŋɗude caggal, ƴettu quickdraw walla sling gila e harness maa haa e jolngo bolt ngam ƴettude teddeendi maa so ina haani, walla waɗde cent roipe annduɗo oo ina waawi ƴettude silipe maɓɓe ummoraade e 30 gila e doggol jaawngol gadanol ngol (putting you back on a clean top-rope path to lower them).

Faandaare 3: Dogde e Belay (Load Transfer) nde alpiniste dogɗo oo yani walla o anndaa¶

Imagine aɗa belaying e darnde walla anchor nde gollodiiɗo maa ƴetti fall tiiɗɗo e sara ŋoral ɓuuɓngal (or down into a gully) kadi jaabaaki wullaango maa. Teddeendi maɓɓe maayndi timmundi (70 to 90 kg) ina ɓuuɓna tiiɗde e loop belay harness maa. A waawaa woppude jolngo fereeji ngam yahde ƴeewndaade ɗi, rokkude ballal gadanal, walla mahde system haul haa mbaɗtaa Belay Escape.

1. 4-Step Winndere Belay Doggol (Mule-Overhand + Prusik Load Transfer)¶

So aɗa belay off harness maa belay loop (redirected through a directional anchor) walla to bannge toɓɓere mawnde ankere, rewa e ɗeeɗoo geɗe nay e nder doggol waktuuji tiiɗɗi :

Ɗatal 1: Sokkitde kaɓirgal Belay ngal e jokkorgal Mule + Backup dow junngo (MMO)¶

Hoto meeɗ woppude GriGri walla ATC tawa a haɓɓaani jokkere enɗam mekanik, no kammu mo teddinaaka walla mo dimmbotoo ina waawi ɓuuɓde nii : 1. Waɗde junngo maa fereeji ina tiiɗi e dow ŋoral fereeji les ATC walla GriGri. 2. E junngo maa mbelngo (walla huutoraade juuɗe ɗiɗi ɗee tawa aɗa jogii tension e dow jolngo fereeji), ɓuuɓna bight (loop) jolngo fereeji slack gila caggal, rewa hakkunde jolngo teddeendi taut e jolngo fereeji (or through the locking carabiner). 3. Ɗaɓɓu oon bight ** yeeso-to-caggal e dow jolngo teskinngo** dow kaɓirgal belay, e tuck bight ɗiɗaɓo wutte fereeji dow rewrude e loop mo mbaɗ-ɗaa jooni oo - ɓuuɓna ɗum snug e jolngo jolngo (this is the Mule Hitch). 4. Haɓɓu Backup Overhand Mandatory: Ƴettu loocol jokkol Mule ngol haa 20 santimeeteer (8 inch) njuuteendi, haɓɓu Njoɓdi dowri hoyre mum e oon loop e sara jokkol jolngo tiiɗngo dow jokkol Mule ngol (walla jolnu karabiner rewrude e jokkol ngol e dow jokkol ngol). 5. Seese-seese, ɓuuɓnu junngo maa fereeji ngam hoolkisaade Mule-Overhand (MMO) ina jogii 100 e nder teemedere teddeendi alpinist oo tawa juuɗe mum ngalaa.

Ɗatal 2: Jokkondira e Hitch Friction (Prusik mala Klemheist) Dow Ɓoggi Lowre Taut¶

Jooni noon, juuɗe maa ɗiɗi ɗee fof ina mbeltii, aɗa foti nanngude ɓoggol teddungal e yeeso kaɓirgal maa belay ngam waawde nawde ngal teddungal e dow ankere kaaƴe: 1. Pullo a 6 mm mala 7 mm loop ɓoggol kaɓirɗe naylon (or a 60 cm sewn nylon/Dyneema sling) gila e harfeere maa. 2. Siŋku jokkorgal Prusik 3-ɓurngal (so tawii ko ɓoggol cirƴam) walla jokkorgal Klemheist / Bachmann 4-ɓalndu (so a huutoriima ɓoggol ɓuuɓngol) to bannge ɓoggol ƴeeŋgol tiiɗngol (the load strand) 15 haa 25 santimeeteer (6 haa 10 inch) yeeso kaɓirgal maa belay coktirgal. 3. Ɓoorno-ɗee ɓoggi ɗii no moƴƴi, ɓuuɓnon Prusik oo yeeso, woɗɗitoo ŋoral maa haa o ɓuuɓtoo e ŋoral ŋoral.

Ɗatal 3: Jokkondirde e jokkorgal jokkorgal e toɓɓere mawnde Anker e Munter-Mule yaajɗo¶

So aɗa taƴa tan loop Prusik juutɗo oo to bannge toɓɓere mawnde anchor, hol no mbaawirtaa yaltinde ɗum caggal so aɗa yiɗi jippinde gollodiiɗo maa? Waɗde jokkorde ankere ina waawi yaltineede e les njiimaandi: 1. Clip a Sifaa Peer (HMS) Sokkitde Karabiner e nder Toɓɓere mawnde Ankere (or into a solid anchor bolt behind you). 2. Ƴettu 120 santimeeteer (double-length) sling walla wutte mbelɗo e ɓoggol ƴeeŋgol ngol, ƴettu heen feccere wootere e nder loop Prusik e dow ŋorol ngol, ƴettu heen feccere woɗnde ndee e karabin Anchor HMS huutortoo Munter Hitch ɓuuɓɗo no waawirtee, coktirgal e Mule-Overhand. - Pro Shortcut Huutoraade wutte ɓoggol ƴeeŋrugol: So aɗa jogii ɓoggol ƴeeŋrugol keewngol gonngol e koyɗe maa, aɗa sokli hay sling ceertuɗo. Ko tan ƴettude loop Prusik oo to bannge Anchor Master Point e karabiner coktirɗo, ɓuuɓnude Prusik oo no fotiri yeeso feewde e ƴeeŋoowo oo no fotiri ngam yaltinde kala ko ina ɓuuɓna, e huutoraade kaɓirgal maa gonngal e ŋoral (walla jokkorgal Munter e dow ŋoral caggal Prusik) hono lowre backup.

Ɗatal 4: Fawde jolngo Gila e Harness maa haa e Anchor e Unclip¶

1. Sokkit Backup overhand e pop Mule Hitch e dow kaɓirgal maa belay harness tawa aɗa jogii jokkorgal fereeji e junngo maa fereeji.
2. Seese-seese, ñammin santimeeteeruuji seeɗa ɓoggol rewrude e kaɓirgal maa belay haa Prusik hitch jokkondirɗo e ankere oo ɓuuɓtoo no feewi, nannga 100 e nder teemedere teddeendi alpiniste dogɗo oo.
3. Jokku ñamminde slack haa ɓoggol hakkunde kaɓirgal maa harness belay e Prusik yaha limp timmuɗo.
4. Siɓɓu jokkere enɗam musiiba (a Figure-Eight-on-a-Bight) e nder ɓoggol ɓuuɓngol caggal Prusik e ɓuuɓnude ɗum to bannge Anchor Master Point e karabin coktirgal (so the fallen climber is now backed up by a hard knot on the anchor in case the Prusik ever slipped).
5. Sokkitde kaɓirgal belay ngal e harness maa. A daɗii jooni e belay - harness maa ina weltii e rappel dow liggey fixe ngam safrude sehil maa gaañiiɗo (putting them in a horizontal seated splint to prevent suspension trauma), ƴeeŋde e ŋoral ngam sarwiis cellal, walla mahde a 3:1 Z-drag haul system ngam ƴeftude ɗe haa e ŋoral.

Limooje emergency diiwaan e porotokolle agence¶

So tawii alpiniste ina yani, ina anndaa e nder harness, walla ina ŋoŋɗi e dow mahol keewngol pittaali caggal nde geɗe mum majji walla yani, fuɗɗoo Technical Mountain Rescue ɗoon e ɗoon :

• Leyɗeele dentuɗe Amerik e Kanadaa:
• Noddu 911 e naamnaade laaɓndal neldoowo oo Kisnugol Karallaagal dow tulde (MRA / Sheriif diiwaan SAR Ekipaaji ɓoggi toowɗi).
• E nder parkeeji ngenndiiji mawɗi ƴeeŋtuɗi, noddu laabi neldugol SAR toowɗi walla jolnu a Garmin inReach / PLB:
  • Park ngenndiijo Yosemite (NPS YOSAR): Noddu 911 mala (209) 379-1992.
  • Teton mawɗo / Tufnde kaaƴe / Siyon / Parkeeji ngenndiiji leɗɗe Joshua: Noddaango 911 walla Diisneteeɗo Park.
  • Kanada (Skuamis, Bugaboos, Banf, Lake Louise, Kanmoor): Noddaango 911 walla Parks Canada 24-hoore jokkorgal e 1-888-773-8888.
• Dental Dowlaaji Amerik e Irlannda:
• Noddu 999 mala 112, naamndo golloowo oo Polis, caggal ɗuum naamndo Rescue Mountain (MRT) (ngam kaaƴe to Snowdonia/Eryri, diiwaan Peak, diiwaan Lake, nokkuuji toowɗi Ecoppi) walla HM Coastguard (Cliff Rescue) so tawii ko e dow kaaƴe geec (hono Gogart, Pembroke, Swanage, walla Kornwal).
• Dental Orop e ɓulli Alpine:
• Noddu 112 (Limoore Emergency Orop) e nder leyɗeele UE ɗee kala.
• Farayse (Samoon / Mont Blanc / Gorge Verdon / Kalanke): Noddaango 112 walla PGHM (Peloton de Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne) (Chamonix: +33 4 50 53 16 89).
• Swis: Noddu REGA Air-Rescue e... 1414 (+41 333 333 333 ummoraade e SIM-ji hakkunde leyɗeele).
• Itali (Dolomiteeji / Arko / Aosta): Noddu 112 mala 118 ngam CNSAS (Corpo Nazionale Soccorso Alpino e Speleologico).
• Otiris e Almaañ: Noddu 140 (Hisnugol Alpine Otiris Bergrettung) walla 112 (Almaañ Bergwacht).
• Ostarali e Nuwel Selannde:
• Ostraali (Koɗli Bulooji, Arapileeji, Grampiyankooɓe, Ɓoornugol Paabi): Noddaango 000 (112 gila e telefoŋaaji) e ɗaɓɓude Njiylawu e Hisnugol Polis / Hisnugol Tiimngol (NSW Police Rescue / VICSES).
• Selannde Keso (Koɗli Darran, Aoraki / Koɗli Cook, Wanaka): Noddaango 111 ngam Polis NZ SAR / Hisnude kaaƴe Alpine (ACR) walla jolngo a 406 MHz PLB.
• Asiya-Pasifik:
• To Japon, nodda 110 (Polis Hisnude Koɗorɗe). To Taylande (kaaƴe maayo Tonsai / Railay), noddu Polis Turism (1155) walla EMS (1669).

Naamne keewɗe naamneede¶

Hol no belay walla rappel so a jippinii kaɓirgal maa belay ATC walla GriGri e dow njillu keewngu?¶

Aɗa waawi beyde gardiiɗo e kisal, ngaddaa ɗiɗaɓo, walla rappel haa leydi ndii fof huutoraade tan ko karabiner mawɗo coktirɗo no perel nii (maande "H" wonande HMS) e Munter Hitch (ina wiyee kadi Hitch Itaali). Waɗde loope ɗiɗi luurondirɗe e nder ɓoggol ngol, ngaddaa ɗe no uddude coftal deftere udditiinde nii, caggal ɗuum ɓuuɓna karabin maa HMS coktirgal e nder loope ɗiɗi ɗee kala, ɓuuɓna damal ngal. Sabu loope ɗiɗi ɗee ina taarii e nder ŋoral perel jaajngal, jogaade ŋoral fereeji ngal ina yahdi e ŋoral teddeendi ina addana ŋoral toowngal hakkunde ŋoral e dow ŋoral, ngal nannga faɗo, ngal ɓuuɓtoo no feewi e banngeeji ɗiɗi ɗii kala.

Hol ko waɗi jolngo fereeji Munter hitch meeɗaa ruttaade e damal coktirgal karabiner ngal?¶

So a yoɓii slack, ƴettaa ɓoggol, walla rappel huutoraade Munter hitch, ɓoggol dilloowol ngol ina ɓuuɓtoo e bannge gooto e basket karabiner oo. So tawii Munter hitch ina jokki e no jokkorgal fereeji dilloowal ɓuuɓtortoo e dow barme screwgate (walla twist-lock sleeve), ɓoggol dilloowol ngol ina waɗa no jokkorgal beldital nii, ina waawi kadi ɓuuɓnude jokkorgal ngal e ɓuuɓnude damal ngal e les njiimaandi, ina addana ɓoggol ngol ɓuuɓde e karabin. Hoolkiso sahaa kala wonde jolngo fereeji ina yalta e dow ƴiyal karabiner ngal tiiɗngal, ngal alaa ko ɓuuɓnata, walla kuutoro-ɗaa karabineeji ɗiɗi coktirɗi luurondirɗi ngam rappeluuji tiiɗɗi.

Hol no nganndir mi so tawii mi haɓɓii Hitch Clove e nokku Munter Hitch?¶

Ko adii nde njippintaa karabiner oo, ɓuuɓna ɗum no feewi e banngeeji ɗiɗi ɗii fof e dow ŋoral ɗiɗi ngal. Hitch Munter jokkondirɗo no moƴƴi ina jogii loopeeji mum ɗiɗi jooɗiiɗi bannge-bannge e ponto U jokkondirɗo e bannge gooto ("hono uddude deftere udditiinde"), ina addana hitch oo ɓuuɓde ("pop") yahde e caggal rewrude e ŋoral jaajngal ŋoral karabin so ngal fawaama laawol gootol. Hitch Clove ina taƴa diagonally e hakkunde no "X" nii, maa cinnde les tiiɗde e sara barme karabiner, salii ɓuuɓde walla ɓuuɓde so a fawii e dow mum.

Hol ko woni jokkere Mule-Overhand (MMO), hol ko waɗi ɗum huutoreede ngam ustude belay ?¶

Mule-Overhand (MMO) ko jokkorgal coktirgal juuɗe, jokkorgal caggal kaɓirgal belay walla jokkorgal Munter so ina jogii teddeendi alpiniste dogɗo. So aɗa jogii junngo maa fereeji tiiɗɗi e dow jolngo fereeji, aɗa ɓuuɓna loop (bight) jolngo fereeji ɓuuɓɗi e sara jolngo jolngo taut yeeso kaɓirgal ngal ngam waɗde jokkorgal Mule slip-style, caggal ɗuum aɗa jokkondira jokkorgal Overhand e oon loop e jolngo jolngo ngoo ngam wallitde kisal. Nanduɗo e feccere hitch standard mo jammi les njiimaandi teeŋtundi, hitch Mule ina waawi udditeede e nofru hay so tawii ina jogii teddeendi maayndi timmundi ndi 90 kiloogramm mo anndaaka.

Hol ko "dogde e belay" firti, hol nde pot-ɗaa waɗde ɗum?¶

Dogde e belay firti ko waylude teddeendi dogdu, fawaade e dow loop belay harness maa keeriiɗo e dow ankere kaaƴe ngam waawde unclip hoore maa e system. Aɗa foti daɗde e belay kala nde sehil maa yani e gite saraaji ŋoral walla wonta jom hakkille/nawɗo tawa waawaa ustude teddeendi ɓoggol ngol : ko adii fof, coktir kaɓirgal maa belay ngal e ŋoral Mule-Overhand, ɗiɗaɓal ngal, jokkit 3-wrap Prusik hitch e dow ŋoral tiiɗngal to Prusik toɓɓere ŋorol ngol e karabiner coktirgal e sling, e nayaɓol yooɓtu harness maa Mule knot ko noon ankere Prusik ƴetta 100% e jolngo.

Hol ko waɗi ina hulɓinii so belayer ɓurɗo leeɓtude ina ɓuuɓtoo e nder bolt gadano oo e sahaa nde lead fall ?¶

So tawii ƴeeŋoowo ɓurɗo teeŋtude oo yanii, werlii belayer leydi ɓurɗo hoybude dow e nder quickdraw bolt gadano oo, caɗeele ɗiɗi ina mbaɗa : gadanol ngol, junngo belayer oo ina waawi ɓuuɓde hakkunde ɓoggol ngol e quickdraw njamndi, addana ɗum en woppude jolngo fereeji ɗii ; ɗimmo oo, so huutoriima kaɓirgal ballitoowal fereeji hono GriGri, nofru e kammu GriGri ina mbaawi jamminde no feewi e les karabiner quickdraw gadano oo, ko ɗum ɓuuɓnata kammu oo udditaade, foola mekanisme coktirgal oto. Waɗde sahaa kala, jokku junngo maa fereeji les les kaɓirgal ngal, lelnu koyɗe maa ɗiɗi ɗee fof e dow ŋoral kaaƴel ngel nde njiylotoɗaa dow ngam haɗde hips maa e kaɓirgal ngal woɗɗitaade bolt.

Ardiiɓe jokkondirɓe¶

• Aksidaaji ƴeeŋtugol kaaƴe e bouldering
• Canyoneering slot canyon ɓuuɓri gardiiɗo jolngo e ɓoggol jolni e rappel
• Doggol Crevasse, yah-ngartaa glacier, nanngugol hoore mum, e ɓuuɓgol pont nees
• Crampon snag, ax ice nanngugol hoore mum e dow névé ɓuuɓɗo, e baasal ɓuuɓgol spiral glissading

Fuɗɗoode e ardorde laawɗunde¶

• Fedde winndereere toppitiinde ko fayti e yah-ngartaa e yah-ngartaa (UIAA Komisoŋ kisal): Kuule UIAA ngam HMS (Halbmastwurfsicherung) Karabineeji coktirɗi, doole fereeji Munter Hitch, e Mekanik Belay Dinamiik.
• Fedde Ameriknaare toppitiinde koɗki (AMGA) & Fedde Adunaare Fedde Ardiiɓe Koɗli (IFMGA): Deftere njillu e kaaƴe goote: Munter-Mule-Dow (MMO) Lock-Offs, Doggol Belay, e Hisnude Konte.
• Duɗal karallaagal Petzl (Petzl, Farayse): Notifikaasiyoŋaaji karallaagal ngam kaɓirɗe Belay ballitooje fereeji (GriGri), Hakkillaaji jolngo e bolt gadano, e jibinannde Munter improvisée.
• Fedde toppitiinde ko fayti e koɗli Biritaan (BMC) & Fedde Alpine Almaañ (DAV Wiɗtooji kisal): Belaying E Ceertugol Teddeendi, Ankereeji Leydi, e Porotokolle Hisnugol Hoore-Pitche Keewɗe.
• Fedde safaara ladde (WMS) & Komiseer hakkunde leyɗeele ngam hisnude Alpine (ICAR): Haɓde e njuɓɓudi ñawu nguu (Orthostatic Intolerance) e nder Hisnugol Vertikal.