Belay minɛn min bɛ bin farakurun caman kan walima Belayer min bɛ sama ka don bolo fɔlɔ kɔnɔ: Munter Hitch Escape¶

Aw bɛ aw ka tubular belay minɛn fumbling ani ka a fili (ATC / . Reverso) walima frein dɛmɛnan (GriGri) mɛtɛrɛ 200 jigin farakurun jɔlen dɔ kan k’a sɔrɔ i bɛ wuli ka taa belay jirisunba dɔ la min sirilen don ni bɔgɔdaga caman ye - walima ka plɔmu jiginnikɛla girinman dɔ bila ka bugɔli gɛlɛn dɔ ta min bɛ dugukolo belayer sama ka taa san fɛ k’u bolo walima u ka minɛn sɔgɔ ka don bololanɛgɛ teliyalen fɔlɔ la - o bɛ juru jɔlen gɛlɛya lase teliya la. Ni frein de friction mécanique tɛ, jiginnikɛla tɛ se ka ɲɛmɔgɔ binna minɛ lafiya la, ka filanan lasegin, walima ka rappel ka segin duguma ni bololankolonw dɔrɔn ye (which will burn through skin to the bone in less than 2 meters of rope slip). O cogo kelen na, ni ɲɛmɔgɔ binna dɔ jɛngɛlen don a hakili tɛ min na walima ni a tɛ se ka ye so sanfɛlan dɔ jukɔrɔ, n’u farikolo girinya bɛɛ sirilen bɛ i ka bɔrɔsi belay loop la, i bɛ farikolo siri farakurun na fo n’i y’a dɔn doni ɲɛnama bɛ se ka wuli cogo min na ankɔri kan (Escaping the Belay).

Ni jiginnikɛla dɔ ɲɛmɔgɔ binna ni a kunkolo jogin ye, ni a dabɔra kari, ni a jɔli ye, walima ni a sirilen bɛ kogo la min bɛ yɔrɔ caman na dibi donna, aw bɛ aw ka sigida kɔrɔtɔko nimɔrɔ wele (911 Ameriki ni Kanada jamanaw na, . 112 Erɔpu tɔnba kɔnɔ, . 999 Angletɛri jamana na), ka sateliti SOS taamasiyɛn dɔ daminɛ (Garmin inReach walima PLB), walima i ka an ka diɲɛ bɛɛ ka gafe ɲɛbilasɛbɛn lajɛ min tɔgɔ ye ko kɔrɔtɔko nimɔrɔw ni juru doni datugulen don ni Munter-Mule overhand hitch ye. Walasa ka lakana ɲɛminɛcogo caman sɔrɔ minnu bɛ jɔ ni kuluw kan, aw ye sɛbɛn ɲɛ farakurun jiginni ni kabakurunw jiginni kasaara, . canyoneering slot canyon pothole keeper jaan ni juru sirilen bɛ rappel kan, ani crevasse bin, glacier taama, yɛrɛminɛ, ani snow bridge bin. Aw bɛ Munter hitch rigging, karabinɛ kɔkolo lakanani sariyaw, fɔlɔ-bolt pinch bɔli, ani doni-transfer bolicogo sariyaw labato jukɔrɔ.

Aw bɛ o kɛ sisan¶

1. AW KAN’AW KA FREN BOLO BƆ ƝƐNABƆLI JARA ƝƐNABƆLI LA abada: Ni jirisunba jiginnikɛla dɔ binna ka aw sama ka bɔ aw senw kan ka don bololanɛgɛ fɔlɔ walima farakurun da la, aw bɛ aw ka frein bolo siri kosɛbɛ belay minɛn jukɔrɔ (or maintain thumb-on-cam mechanical advantage only after stabilizing). N’i y’i ka belay minɛn fili ankɔri caman na k’a sɔrɔ jiginnikɛla fila bɛɛ sirilen don ka ɲɛ i yɛrɛ ka ankɔri sirilanw fɛ (PAS walima clove hitch), ka a sɛgɛsɛgɛ ko jiginnikɛla fila bɛɛ sirilen don kosɛbɛ sani u ka maga jurukisɛ la.
2. AW KA PƐRƐ ƝƐNABƆLI MIN BƐ SƆRƆ (HMS) LOCKING CARABINER TO REPLACE A DROPPED BELAY DEVICE: Look at your harness rack and select your widest, round-basket pear-shaped locking carabiner (marked with an encircled "H" for Halbmastwurfsicherung / Munter Hitch). Karabinɛ fitinin dɔ min bɛ i n’a fɔ D, o bɛ juruw minɛ walasa u kana se ka wuli ka ɲɛ segi kɔnɔ ni u bɛ ɲɔgɔn falen-falen slack sarali ni juru tali cɛ.
3. AW KA ITALI / MUNTER HITCH siri ka ɲɛ HMS CARABINER KAN: Aw bɛ jiribolo fila kɛ minnu ɲɛda bɛ ɲɔgɔn kɛrɛfɛ jiginni juru la (like closing the pages of an open book walima ka tilayɔrɔ fila fili yɔrɔw la minnu tɛ kelen ye), ka HMS dakun karabini siri ka tɛmɛ a dakun fila bɛɛ fɛ, ka dakun datugulan datugu pewu. Aw bɛ sɔgɔlilan kɔrɔbɔ ni a dakun fila bɛɛ samali ye: a ka kan ka wuli ka ɲɛ ka tɛmɛ peresidan dakun janyalen fɛ ka a sɔrɔ a bɛ fɛnw bɔ 2.0 to 3.0 kN ka capstan friction ni frein sɔgɔli minɛna ka kɛɲɛ ni doni sirilan ye.
4. AW KA FREN ƝƐNABƆLI YƆRƆ LOCKING GATE SLEEVE LA: Ni aw bɛ belaying walima rappelling kɛ Munter hitch kan, aw bɛ karabinɛ ni aw ka frein bolo ɲɛsin tuma bɛɛ walasa frein sirilan min bɛ lamaga, o ka maga karabiner ka solid spine side la - a kana kɛ abada ka tɛmɛ screwgate barrel kan, yɔrɔ min na juru lamagatɔ sɔgɔli bɛ se ka locking sleeve da wuli ani ka juru bɔ doni kɔrɔ.
5. AW KA BELAY MINƐN WAALIMA MUNTER HITCH WEIGHTED DƆ NI MULE OVERHAND YE (MMO): Ni aw jɛɲɔgɔn binna ka dulon juru la k’a sɔrɔ a ma a yɛrɛ dɔn walima ni a jogin na, aw bɛ frein sirilan minɛ ka ɲɛ ni aw bolo kelen ye ka Mule Hitch siri min bɛ kɔfɛ ni Overhand knot ye (Mule-Overhand) ka doni sirilen lamini belay minɛn walima Munter hitch sanfɛ yɛrɛ. O bɛ kɛ sababu ye ka sistɛmu kɛ bololabaarakɛbali ye pewu k’a sɔrɔ a bɛ to ka labɔ farikolo girinya dafalen kɔrɔ.
6. AW KA DONI CI ANCHOR LA NI PRUSIK WAALIMA KLEMHEIST YE KA BOLO BELAY LA: Ni belay datugulen don ni Mule-Overhand ye, aw bɛ a siri 6 to 7 mm nilon prusik juru (walima a Klemheist hitch tied with a sewn Dyneema/nylon sling) onto the tight load strand in front of your harness, ka prusik tail siri anchor master point kɔnɔ ka tɛmɛ locking carabiner filanan fɛ ani Munter-Mule sling min bɛ se ka ladilan, ani ka i ka harness Mule knot bila dɔɔni dɔɔni walasa anchor ka jiginnikɛla binna girinya kɛmɛsarada la 100 ta.

Desizɔn jiri : belay minɛn min binna, fɔlɔ-bolt sama-don, ani belay boli¶

Aw bɛ baara kɛ ni nin kisibɔlan jɔlen ye walasa ka nɛgɛso ɲuman ni masinw jiginni sinsinni sugandi:

flowchart TD
    Crisis["Jiri jɔlen gɛlɛya kan Multi-Pitch walima Sport Crag kan"] --> Scenario{"1. Kɔrɔtɔko jumɛn de kɛra?"}
    Scenario -->|"ATC / GriGri jiginna Multi-Pitch Anchor la"| PickHMS["Aw bɛ Karabinɛ min bɛ wele ko Largest Pear-Shaped (HMS) Locking Carabiner (Aw bɛ baara kɛ ni 2 opposite-Gate Lockers ye ni juru fila bɛ jigin)"]
    PickHMS --> TieMunter["Tie Munter Hitch: Aw bɛ jiribolo fila kɛ i n’a fɔ gafe da wulilen datuguli, ka HMS siri u fila bɛɛ la, ka da tugu ni juru ye"]
    TieMunter --> CheckSpine["ƝƐNABƆLI KƆRƆBƆLI: Aw bɛ a sɛgɛsɛgɛ ko freinw bɛ boli karabinɛ SOLID SPINE kan, aw kana tɛmɛ abada ka tɛmɛ screwgate sleeve kan"]
    CheckSpine --> Mode{"Belaying walima Rappelling?"}
    Mode -->|"Belaying ɲɛmɔgɔ walima tugubaga"| BelayMunter["Aw bɛ frein sɔgɔli minɛ ka kɛɲɛ ni doni sirilan ye (180-deg wrap) walasa ka sɔgɔsɔgɔ kosɛbɛ; aw bɛ ganw don minnu dilalen don ni wuluwulu ye"]
    Mode -->|"Rappelling Single walima fila ye"| RappelMunter["Rig bolo sabanan autoblock/prusik backup kan sen loop Munter duguma; aw bɛ jigin dɔɔni dɔɔni walasa ka juruw tigɛli dɔgɔya"]
    Scenario -->|"Belayer Pulled Up & Pinched Ka 1er Bolt"| BoltPinch["Aw bɛ Frein Bolo To a la; Aw bɛ senw siri fara kogo la walasa ka kɔkiliw gosi ka segin santimɛtɛrɛ 15 ani ka bolo bɔ teliya la"]
    BoltPinch --> Unclip1st{"Yala aw bɛ se ka juru bɔ 1er Bolt la ni lafiya ye wa?"}
    Unclip1st -->|"Climber Conscient & Kɔrɔlen"| LowerDown["Aw bɛ slack balo dɔɔni dɔɔni walima ka 1er draw bɔ ni bolo hɔrɔnyalen ye siɲɛ kelen sen-braced walasa belayer ka segin ka jigin duguma"]
    Scenario -->|"Yɛlɛnbaga min binna, o sirilen bɛ a ɲɛ na / Jogin na juru kan"| LockMule["SEN 1: Aw bɛ Mule Hitch + Overhand Backup siri Load Strand kan walasa ka Lock Off Belay Device Hands-Free"]
    LockMule --> HitchLoad["2 : Aw bɛ 3-Wrap Prusik walima Klemheist siri Taut Load Strand kan Belay Device sanfɛ"]
    HitchLoad --> AnchorLink["3NAN : Prusik janya ka se Anchor Master Point ma ni Sling + HMS Munter-Mule ye"]
    AnchorLink --> ReleaseHar["4nan : Pop Harness Mule Knot & Slowly Feed Rope fo ka se doni jiginni ma 100% ka taa Anchor Prusik la; Aw bɛ Harness (Harness) bɔ"]

Fasa 1: Belay minɛn min binna, o bɛ se ka Munter Hitch (Italian Hitch) .¶

Yɛlɛnbaga bɛɛ - a kɛra farikoloɲɛnajɛ jiginni ye farakurun kelen kan walima jiginni farakurun 15 kan - ka kan ka se ka Munter Hitch (Halbmastwurfsicherung / . HMS / . Italian Hitch) ɲɛda datugulen ani bolo kelen. Munter hitch ye bidirectional friction hitch ye min bɛ zero specialized belay hardware de wajibiya - jiginni juru dɔrɔn ani karabinɛ min bɛ datugu.

1. Jateminɛ yelen min bɛ kɛ ka ɲɛsin Munter Hitch sirili ma senfɛ-senfɛ¶

Aw bɛ nin bololabaarakɛcogo 4 tigitigi in labato walasa aw kana Clove Hitch min bɛ datugu walima ka slip loop min tɛ minɛ, o siri abada bala la: 1. Pinch a Horizontal Bight of Rope: Aw bɛ jiginni juru minɛ ka ɲɛ aw disi ɲɛfɛ ni aw bolo fila bɛɛ ni ɲɔgɔn cɛ ye santimɛtɛrɛ 30 ye, aw bolokɔniw ɲɛsinnen bɛ aw ma (thumbs pointing outward away from each other). 2. Aw bɛ aw bolokɔni fila bɛɛ wuli ka taa kɔnɔna na ka taa aw disi fan fɛ walasa ka jiribolo fila dilan ("The Open Book"): - Aw bɛ aw kininbolo wuli ka taa kɔnɔna na walasa aw bolokɔnincinin ka ɲɛsin aw disi ma, ka Loop #1 kɛ (yɔrɔ min na jiribolo bɛ tɛmɛ ɲɛfɛ). - Aw bɛ aw kininbolo wuli ka taa filɛlikɛlan fan dɔ fɛ (walima aw bɛ jiribolo fila fara ɲɔgɔn kan kɛrɛfɛ i n’a fɔ aw bɛ gafe da wulilen ɲɛda datugu). - Sɛgɛsɛgɛli yelen Sani ka tigɛ: Aw bɛ jiribolo fila lajɛ minnu sigilen bɛ kɛrɛfɛ. Cɛmancɛ-yɔrɔ min bɛ jiribolo fla ninnu siri ɲɔgɔn na, o ka kan ka Sìgi kɛrɛ kelen na (ka "U" bɔgɔdaga walima "spring" dɔɔnin Kɛ jirisun fla ninnu cɛ), k'a sɔrɔ kùnkolo jan fla ninnu bɛ Bɔ fàn fla ni ɲɔgɔn cɛ. (Ni jirisun fila ninnu bɛ ɲɔgɔn cɛtigɛ cɛmancɛ la i n'a fɔ "X", i ye Clove Hitch siri, o bɛna jam solide, a tɛna invert.) 3. Aw ka HMS Pear-Shaped Locking Carabiner tigɛ ka tɛmɛ Loop fila bɛɛ fɛ ani Belay Loop / Anchor fɛ: - Aw bɛ aw ka karabinɛ belebeleba nugu tɛmɛ juru fila bɛɛ fɛ, ka a siri aw ka harness belay loop kɔnɔ (ka ɲɛsin plɔmu belay/rappelling ma) walima ka a siri anchor master point la (walasa ka segin nata lase ka bɔ sanfɛ), ani ka aw ka screw kɛ ka locking sleeve shut. 4. Baarakɛcogo sɛgɛsɛgɛli Sani ka doni bila: - Aw bɛ sama kosɛbɛ Climber (Load) Strand kan: Munter hitch ka bobine fila bɛna wuli (invert) ka tɛmɛ pere karabinɛ segi belebele fɛ ni pop nɔgɔlen ye ani ka cinch duguma doni sirilan lamini na. - Sisan, aw bɛ Brake Strand sama kosɛbɛ: a bɛ wuli ka segin ka taa sira wɛrɛ fɛ ka tɛmɛ segi fɛ. O otomatiki flipping wale in de b’a to Munter hitch bɛ se ka pay out slack (ni ɲɛmɔgɔ wulila san fɛ) ani catch a fall (ni ɲɛmɔgɔ binna) fila bɛɛ la k’a sɔrɔ a ma juru siri kokura abada.

2. Munter Hitch Frein Mekaniki kɔrɔlenw ani "Gate-Rub" farati¶

A tɛ i n’a fɔ ATC minɛn tubular min kɔnɔ freinw sɔgɔli bɛ bɔ juru kuruli la S-curve la karabinɛ bara lamini k’i ka frein bolo sama ka jigin (toward your hip), Munter ka bɔgɔdaga bɛ a ka sɔgɔsɔgɔ fɔlɔ lase frein sɔgɔli ma k’a siri doni sirilan yɛrɛ la (rope-on-rope capstan friction):

3. Aw bɛ Belay / Rappel minɛnw falen ɲɔgɔn na ni aw bɛ ni Karabinɛri oval ye (The Carabiner Brake) .¶

Ni aw mago bɛ ka rappel vertical pitch jan dɔ kɛ juru fila kan i ka ATC fililen kɔfɛ, ani ni aw b’a fɛ ka aw yɛrɛ tanga juruw kining jugumanba ma do (hocking) min sababu bɔra Munter hitch dɔ la wa? Ni karabinɛri naani fo wɔɔrɔ bɛ aw bolo minnu bɛ oval walima D cogoya la aw ka bɔgɔdaga kan, aw bɛ se ka Monster / Carabiner Brake klasiki dɔ lajɛ segin 45 kɔnɔ (aw bɛ baara kɛ ni karabinɛ fila ye minnu bɛ kɛ siɲɛ fila ye i n’a fɔ karamɔgɔ ani karabinɛtiri kelen walima fila minnu tigɛra ka tɛmɛ kɔkolo kan walasa ka S-bend friction bar dɔ dilan min ni lakɔli kɔrɔ figure-eight walima bɛ kelen ye Rappel Rack ye). Nka, kɔrɔtɔko minnu bɛ kɛ ni fɔlikan caman ye, olu kɛmɛsarada la 95, HMS Munter Hitch + Leg-Loop Autoblock bɛ teliya, a bɛ girin fila dɔrɔn de wajibiya, wa a bɛ baara kɛ belaying ni rappelling fila bɛɛ la.

Dakun 2nan : Ka kisi ni plɔmu jiginnikɛla girinman dɔ binna ka belayer sama ka don bololanɛgɛ fɔlɔ la¶

Ni a 90 kg (200 lb) plɔmu jiginnikɛla bɛ bin bololanɛgɛ filanan walima sabanan sanfɛ k’a sɔrɔ a bɛ kɔfɛ ni a 55 kg (120 lb) jɛɲɔgɔn min jɔlen bɛ duguma ni dugukolo jɔlan tɛ ( .1.6:1 weight ratio), fanga lakanani bɛ belayer nɔgɔman lase mɛtɛrɛ 3 fo 5 (sen 10 fo 16) tilennen san fɛ fiɲɛ na. Seginnkanni tilancɛ kɔnɔ, belayer bɛ sɔgɔsɔgɔ fara kogo la bolt quickdraw fɔlɔ la.

1. "First-Bolt Pinch" farikolo yɔrɔw ani a bilali bali cogo min na¶

Ni belayer jɔlen bɛ kɔfɛ kojugu ka bɔ kogo la walima ni u y’u ka frein bolo minɛ ka kɔrɔta kojugu ATC/GriGri sanfɛ ni a bɛ wuli sanfɛ, balawu fila bɛ kɛ bololanɛgɛ fɔlɔ la: 1. The Brake-Hand Pinch: Belayer ka frein bolo bɛ sumaya k’a ɲɛsin juru wulilen ni teliya-jago fɔlɔ duguma karabin cɛ, ka bolokɔnincininw mugumugu ani ka belayer wajibiya ka juru bila ni hakilijagabɔ ye. 2. GriGri Cam-Open Trap: Ni frein dɛmɛnan dɔ nugu walima a cam (GriGri) bɛ sɔgɔsɔgɔ ka taa teliya la karabin fɔlɔ jukɔrɔ ka to ka siri nɛgɛdaga la, teliya ja bɛ GriGri kam jigin ka don da wulilen/da wulilen na - ka ɲɛmɔgɔ fili duguma fo ka se duguma.

Aw bɛ teliya ka wale kɛ ni aw bɛ sama ka taa san fɛ ka ɲɛsin bololanɛgɛ fɔlɔ ma:¶

• Taabolo fɔlɔ: Aw bɛ aw ka frein bolo to duguma ani ka a siri: Aw bɛ aw ka frein bolo jigin ka taa aw kɔ fan fɛ (never above the belay device).
• Taabolo 2nan : Aw bɛ sen fila bɛɛ turu ka kɛɲɛ ni fara ɲɛda ye ("Stemming the Wall"): Aw kana a to abada aw disi ni aw senkɔniw ka sɔgɔsɔgɔ ka kɛɲɛ ni bololanɛgɛ sirilan ye. Ni aw bɛ pan san fɛ, aw bɛ aw gɛnɛgɛnɛ fila bɛɛ lase sanfɛ ka aw ka sanbara senw turu ka kɛɲɛ ni fara kogo ye, ka aw kɔkiliw gɛrɛntɛ santimɛtɛrɛ 30 fo 45 (santimɛtɛrɛ 12 fo 18) ka tilennen bɔ ka bɔ farakurun ɲɛda la. O b’a to i ka belay minɛn ni i bolow bɛ bɔ teliya la fɔlɔ la.
• Taabolo 3nan: Ka jigin ni i bɛ balansi kɛ fiɲɛ cɛmancɛ la:
• Ni binkanni jɔra dɔrɔn, i (belayer min ka nɔgɔn) bɛ jɛgɛn mɛtɛrɛ 2,5 duguma ka bɔ Bolt #1 jukɔrɔ dɔrɔn, k’a sɔrɔ i jɛɲɔgɔn girinman bɛ jɛgɛn mɛtɛrɛ 4 duguma ka bɔ Bolt #2 jukɔrɔ.
• Aw bɛ jiginnikɛla girinman bila a ka bolo minɛ walima ka a siri kogo la walasa ka kilo 15 girinya bɔ juru la, walima ka aw ka GriGri levier da wuli dɔɔni dɔɔni / ka mɛtɛrɛ 1 balo ni slack kɔrɔsilen ye aw ka ATC fɛ walasa aw ka wuli santimɛtɛrɛ 15 fo aw ka minɛn ka maga ja la k’a sɔrɔ aw ka jiginnikɛla girinman bɛ jigin nɔgɔya la duguma. Ni jiginnikɛla senw magara nɔgɔ la dɔrɔn, u bɛ juru girinya bɔ ka i jigin ka segin duguma.
• Ni Belay minɛn sirilen don kosɛbɛ Quickdraw fɔlɔ la do?: Aw bɛ aw ka frein bolo datugu, ka aw senw gɛrɛ fara kogo la walasa ka aw biri kɔfɛ, ka quickdraw walima sling dɔ tigɛ ka bɔ aw ka bɔrɔ la ka taa bololanɛgɛ sirilan na walasa ka aw girinya ta ni aw mago bɛ a la, walima ka jiginnikɛla hakilitigi bila ka juru santimɛtɛrɛ 30 sama ka bɔ u kɛrɛ fɛ walasa aw ka se ka juru siri ka bɔ quickw fɔlɔ la (putting you back on a clean top-rope path to lower them).

Fasa 3nan : Ka boli Belay (Load Transfer) ni jiginnikɛla binna dɔ jogin na walima ni a hakili tɛ a la¶

Miiri k’a filɛ i bɛ ka belaying (or down into a gully) wa a t' i ka kulekanw jaabi . U girinya salen dafalen (70 to 90 kg) bɛ ka sama kosɛbɛ i ka harness belay loop kan. Aw tɛ se ka frein sɔgɔli bila ka taa u lajɛ, ka dɛmɛ fɔlɔ kɛ, walima ka haul system jɔ fo ka Belay Escape kɛ.

1. A 4-Sen universel Belay bolicogo (Mule-Overhand + Prusik Load Transfer) .¶

Ni aw bɛ ka belay bɔ aw ka harness belay loop (redirected through a directional anchor) walima ka bɔ ankɔri master point la, aw bɛ nin fɛɛrɛ naani ninnu kɛ ka kɛɲɛ ni waatibolodacogo gɛlɛn ye :

1: Ka Belay minɛn datugu ni Mule Hitch + Overhand Backup ye (MMO) .¶

Aw kana GriGri walima ATC bila abada ni aw ma masin kɔkanna nɛgɛ siri, barisa kamera min girinya tɛ walima min bɛ yɛrɛyɛrɛ, o bɛ se ka wuli: 1. Aw bɛ aw ka frein bolo siri kosɛbɛ frein sirilan kan ATC walima GriGri jukɔrɔ. 2. Ni aw bolo hɔrɔnyalen ye (walima aw bɛ baara kɛ ni aw bolo fila ye k’a sɔrɔ aw bɛ tension mara frein sirilan kan), aw bɛ frein slack strand** bight (loop) dɔ digi ka bɔ kɔfɛ, ka tɛmɛ doni sirilen sirilen ni frein sirilen cɛ (or through the locking carabiner). 3. Aw bɛ o bight ** ɲɛfɛ ka taa kɔfɛ ka doni sirilen lamini belay minɛn sanfɛ yɛrɛ, ka frein kɔkili bight filanan siri sanfɛ ka tɛmɛ aw ye loop min dilan sisan - k’a sama ka ɲɛ doni sirilan na (this is the Mule Hitch). 4. Tie the Mandatory Overhand Backup: Aw bɛ Mule sirilan ka bɔgɔdaga sama ka bɔ fo ka se santimɛtɛrɛ 20 ma (insi 8) ka Overhand knot nɔgɔman siri ni o bɔgɔlan ye ka doni sirilen lamini Mule sirilan sanfɛ (walima ka karabinɛ dɔ siri ka tɛmɛ jiribolo fɛ doni sirilan kan). 5. Aw bɛ aw ka frein bolo lafiya dɔɔni dɔɔni walasa ka Mule-Overhand (MMO) bɛ jiginnikɛla girinya kɛmɛsarada la 100 minɛ bolo la.

2nan : Aw bɛ Friction Hitch (Prusik walima Klemheist) Ka don Taut Load Strand kan¶

Sisan, i bolo fila bɛɛ hɔrɔnyalen don, i ka kan ka jiginni juru girinyalen minɛ i ka belay minɛn ɲɛfɛ walasa i ka se k’o girinya bila farakurun jɔlan kan: 1. Sama a ** .6 mm walima 7 mm nylon accessoire cordon boucle** (or a 60 cm sewn nylon/Dyneema sling) ka bɔ aw ka bɔrɔ kɔnɔ. 2. Aw bɛ 3-wrap Prusik hitch (ni aw bɛ baara kɛ ni juru bulama ye) walima 4-wrap Klemheist / Bachmann hitch (ni aw bɛ baara kɛ ni webbing fla ye) siri ka ɲɛsin jiginni juru sirilen ma (the load strand) santimɛtɛrɛ 15 fo 25 (santimɛtɛrɛ 6 fo 10) aw ka belay minɛn datugulen ɲɛfɛ. 3. Aw bɛ bobinew don ka ɲɛ ani ka Prusik sɔgɔ ka taa ɲɛfɛ ka bɔ aw ka bɔrɔ la fo a ka kinni kɛ jiginni juru la kosɛbɛ.

3nan : Aw bɛ Friction Hitch siri Anchor Master Point la ni Extendable Munter-Mule ye¶

N’i ye Prusik loop surun in siri dɔrɔn k’a ɲɛsin anchor master point ma, i bɛna a bila cogo di don dɔ kɔfɛ n’i mago bɛ k’i jɛɲɔgɔn jigin? Aw bɛ anchor connection kɛ releasable under load: 1. Clip a Per-Shaped (HMS) Karabinɛ datuguli Anchor Master Point kɔnɔ (or into a solid anchor bolt behind you). 2. Aw bɛ santimɛtɛrɛ 120 ta (double-length) sling walima jiginni juru hɔrɔnyalen kɔ, aw bɛ a kun kelen siri Prusik loop la doni sirilan kan, ka a dakun tɔ kelen siri Anchor HMS karabinɛ na ni Munter Hitch ye min samana ka ɲɛ i n’a fɔ a bɛ se ka kɛ cogo min na, min datugulen don ni Mule-Overhand ye. - Pro Shortcut Using the Climbing Rope Tail: Ni jiginni juru caman bɛ aw sen na, aw mago tɛ hali sɛgɛnlafiɲɛbɔlan danfaralen na. Aw bɛ Prusik jiribolo siri dɔrɔn ka ɲɛsin Anchor Master Point ma ni karabinɛ ye min bɛ da tugu, ka Prusik sɔgɔ ka taa ɲɛfɛ ka taa jiginnikɛla fan fɛ fo a bɛ se ka se cogo min na walasa ka sɛgɛn bɛɛ bɔ, ani ka baara kɛ ni aw ka harness belay minɛn ye min bɛ yen (walima Munter hitch min bɛ ankɔri kan Prusik kɔfɛ) i n’a fɔ kɔkanna ni jigin fɛɛrɛ.

4nan : Aw bɛ doni bɔ aw ka bɔgɔdaga la ka taa Anchor ani Unclip la¶

1. Overhand backup sirilen don ka Mule Hitch pop i ka harness belay minɛn kan ka sɔrɔ ka frein sirili minɛ kosɛbɛ i ka frein bolo la.
2. Aw bɛ juru santimɛtɛrɛ damadɔ balo dɔɔni dɔɔni aw ka belay minɛn fɛ fo Prusik sirilan min sirilen bɛ ankɔri la, o ka sɛgɛn ka ɲɛ ani ka jiginnikɛla binna girinya kɛmɛsarada la 100 minɛ.
3. Aw bɛ to ka dumuni kɛ slack fo juru min bɛ aw ka harness belay minɛn ni Prusik cɛ ka taa limp pewu.
4. Ka Catastrophe Backup Knot siri (a Figure-Eight-on-a-Bight) jiginni juru nɔgɔlen kɔnɔ Prusik kɔfɛ k' a siri k' a ɲɛsin Anchor Master Point ma ni karabinɛ ye min bɛ datugu (so the fallen climber is now backed up by a hard knot on the anchor in case the Prusik ever slipped).
5. Aw bɛ belay minɛn bɔ aw ka bɔrɔ kɔnɔ. I bolila sisan pewu belay la - i ka bɔrɔ hɔrɔnyalen don ka rappel ka jigin layini jɔlen kan walasa k’i joginlen furakɛ (putting them in a horizontal seated splint to prevent suspension trauma), ka wuli ka taa kulu dɔ la selilɛri baara kama, walima ka a 3:1 Z-drag haul system walasa k’u kɔrɔta fo ka se ledge ma.

Sigidaw ka kɔrɔtɔko nimɔrɔw ani baaradaw ka sariyaw¶

Ni jiginnikɛla dɔ jogin na, a hakili ma sɔrɔ bɔrɔ kɔnɔ, walima ni a ma su kɛ kogo la min bɛ se ka wuli ka taa yɔrɔ caman na, a ka girin bɔnɛnen kɔfɛ walima a binna, aw bɛ Technical Mountain Rescue daminɛ joona:

• Amerika ni Kanada:
• Aw ye wele kɛ 911 ani ka ciden ɲininka k’a jɛya Technical Mountain Rescue (MRA / County Sheriff SAR ka juruba jɛkulu).
• Jamana nakɔsɛnɛyɔrɔbaw kɔnɔ minnu bɛ jiginni kɛ, aw bɛ SAR cikan tilennenw wele walima ka a daminɛ Garmin inReach / . PLB: 1 .
  • Yosemite jamana ka parki (NPS YOSAR): A wele 911 walima (209) 379-1992.
  • Grand Teton / Rocky Mountain / Siyɔn / Joshua Tree jamana nakɔsɛnɛyɔrɔw: Weele 911 walima Park Dispatch (Parc Dispatch) ye.
  • Kanada (Squamish, Bugaboos, Banff, Lake Louise, Canmore): Aw ye wele kɛ 911 walima Parks Canada Lɛrɛ 24 Kɔrɔtɔko Cikan na 1-888-773-8888.
• Royaume-Uni ani Irlandi:
• Dial kɛ 999 walima 112, ka Polisiw ɲini baarakɛla fɛ, ka sɔrɔ ka Kuluw Kisi (MRT) (ka ɲɛsin faraw ma Snowdonia/Eryri, Peak District, Lake District, Scotland Highlands) walima HM Coastguard (Cliff Rescue) ni i bɛ jiginni kɛ kɔgɔji faraw kan (i n’a fɔ Gogarth, Pembroke, Swanage, walima Cornwall).
• Erɔpu Kelenyatɔnba ani Alpin kuluw:
• Dial ** .112** (Erɔpu jamana ka kɔrɔtɔko nimɔrɔ) UE jamanaw bɛɛ kɔnɔ.
• France (Chamonix / Mont Blanc / Verdon kɔji / Calanques): A wele 112 walima PGHM (Peloton de Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne) ( ) .Chamonix: +33 4 50 53 16 89).
• Suwisi: Aw bɛ se ka REGA Air-Rescue wele nin yɔrɔ la 1414 (+41 333 333 333 ka bɔ diɲɛ SIMw la).
• Itali (Dolomites / Arco / Aosta): Aw ye wele kɛ 112 walima 118 ka ɲɛsin CNSAS ma (Corpo Nazionale Soccorso Alpino e Speleologico).
• Ɔtirisi & Alimanjamana: Weele 140 (Ɔtirisi kuluw kisi Bergrettung) walima ** .112** (Alemaɲi jamana Bergwacht).
• Ɔsitarali ni Zelande kura:
• Ɔsitarali (Kulu buluw, Arapiles, Grampians, Frog Buttress): Weele 000 (112 ka bɔ telefɔni selilɛriw la) ani ka ɲinini kɛ Polisiw ka ɲinini ni kisili / Kisi jɔlen (NSW Police Rescue / . VICSES).
• Zélande kura (Darran kuluw, Aoraki / Kuki kulu, Wanaka): Weele 111 ka ɲɛsin NZ Polisiw ka SAR / Alpine Cliff Rescue (ACR) walima trigger a 406 MHz PLB.
• Azi-Pasifiki:
• Japon kɔnɔ, wele 110 (Polisiw ka kulu Kisi). Thailand (Tonsai / Railay kɔgɔji faraw) kɔnɔ, aw bɛ Turisidi Polisiw wele (1155) walima EMS (1669).

Ɲininkali minnu bɛ kɛ tuma caman na¶

I bɛ belay walima rappel kɛ cogo di n’i y’i ka ATC walima GriGri belay minɛn fili jiginni caman na?¶

I bɛ se ka ɲɛmɔgɔ dɔ belay lafiya la, ka filanan lase, walima ka rappel kɛ fo duguma ni karabinɛ belebeleba ye min bɛ i n’a fɔ peer (a taamasiyɛn ye ko "H" HMS ye) ani Munter Hitch (a bɛ fɔ fana ko Itali Hitch). Aw bɛ jiribolo fila kɛ jiginni juru la minnu ɲɛsinnen bɛ ɲɔgɔn ma, ka u fara ɲɔgɔn kan i n’a fɔ ka gafe da wulilen datugulanw datugu, o kɔ aw bɛ aw ka HMS datugulan karabini siri jiribolo fila bɛɛ la ka da datugu ni juru ye. Ikomi o jirisun fla ninnu bɛ ɲɔgɔn Lamini peresidan belebeleba kɔnɔ, ka frein sirili minɛ ka bɛn doni sirili ma, o bɛ juru ni juru sɔgɔliba lawuli min bɛ bin minɛ ka wuli ka taa ɲɛ fan fila bɛɛ fɛ.

Mun na Munter bɔgɔlan ka frein siri man kan ka mugan abada karabinɛ da tugulen kan?¶

Ni aw ye slack sara, ka juru ta, walima ka rappel kɛ ni Munter hitch ye, juru min bɛ lamaga, o bɛ karabiner sigilan fan kelen maga. Ni Munter ka bɔgɔlan ɲɛsinnen don walasa frein lamagannen ka sɔgɔsɔgɔninjɛ ka sɔgɔsɔgɔninjɛ da (walima twist-lock sleeve) kan, juru min bɛ lamaga, o bɛ kɛ i n’a fɔ cɛsirilan bolicogo, wa a bɛ se ka da tugulan da wuli ka da wuli doni kɔrɔ, o bɛ a to juru ka bɔ karabinɛ na. Aw bɛ a lajɛ tuma bɛɛ ni frein sirilan bɛ bɔ karabinɛ kɔkolo gɛlɛn kan, min ma siri, walima aw bɛ karabinɛ fila kɛ minnu bɛ ɲɔgɔn kɛrɛfɛ ani minnu bɛ ɲɔgɔn sɔsɔ, ka ɲɛsin rappel kɔrɔlenw ma.

Ne bɛ se k’a dɔn cogo di ni ne ye Clove Hitch siri bala la Munter Hitch nɔ na?¶

Sani aw ka karabi doni, aw bɛ a sama nɔgɔya la fan fila bɛɛ fɛ juru fila kan. Munter bɔgɔlan min sirilen don ka ɲɛ, a ka bɔgɔdaga fila sigilen bɛ kɛrɛfɛ ni U cogo la bɔrɔ ye min b’u siri ɲɔgɔn na fan kelen fɛ ("i n'a fɔ gafe da wulilen datuguli"), o b'a to bɔgɔdaga bɛ se ka wuli ("pop") ka taa ɲɛfɛ ka segin ka tɛmɛn karabinɛ sigilan dakunba fɛ ni a samara sira fila bɛɛ fɛ. Clove hitch bɛ tɛmɛ diagonalement cɛmancɛ la i n'a fɔ "X" ani a bɛna cinch down kosɛbɛ karabiner bar lamini, ka ban ka slide walima ka flip n'i y'a sama.

Mule-Overhand (MMO) knot ye mun ye, ani mun na a bɛ kɛ ka belay dɔ datugu?¶

Mule-Overhand (MMO) ye bololabaarakɛminɛn ye min sirilen bɛ belay minɛn walima Munter hitch kɔfɛ ni a bɛ jiginnikɛla binna ka girinya minɛ. K’i to i ka frein bolo sirilen na frein sirilan kan, i bɛ frein slack juru sɔgɔlen dɔ (bight) dɔ gɛrɛ doni sirilen sirilen na minɛn ɲɛfɛ walasa ka Mule hitch kɛ i n’a fɔ slip-style, ka sɔrɔ ka Overhand knot siri ni o bɔgɔlan ye doni sirilan lamini na i n’a fɔ lakana kɔkanna. A tɛ i n’a fɔ tilancɛ-hitch standard min bɛ jam kɛ bin gɛlɛn kɔrɔ, Mule hitch bɛ se ka da wuli nɔgɔya la hali ni a bɛ kilo 90 jiginnikɛla min hakili tɛ a la, o girinya salen dafalen minɛ.

"Escaping the belay" kɔrɔ ye mun ye, ani tuma jumɛn i ka kan k'o kɛ?¶

Ka boli belay la, o kɔrɔ ye ka jiginnikɛla binna, min dulonna, o girinya bɔ i yɛrɛ ka harness belay loop la ka taa farakurun jɔlan kan walasa i ka se k’i yɛrɛ bɔ sistɛmu kɔnɔ. Aw ka kan ka boli belay la tuma o tuma ni aw jɛɲɔgɔn binna ka bɔ ɲɛ na a lamini na walima ni a ma kɛ a yɛrɛ la/jogin na ani a tɛ se ka juru girinya bɔ: aw bɛ fɔlɔ ka aw ka belay minɛn datugu ni Mule-Overhand knot ye, aw bɛ filanan ka Prusik sirilan 3-wrap siri jiginni juru sirilen na min bɛ aw ɲɛfɛ, sabanan ka o Prusik siri anchor master point la ni locking carabiner ye ani sling, ani naaninan i ka harness Mule knot bila walasa anchor Prusik ka 100% ta doni na.

Mun na farati bɛ a la ni belayer min ka nɔgɔn, o bɛ sama ka taa san fɛ ka don bololanɛgɛ fɔlɔ la, plɔmu bintɔ waati?¶

Ni plɔmu jiginnikɛla girinman dɔ binna ka dugukolo belayer nɔgɔman dɔ lase sanfɛ ka don bololanɛgɛ teliyalan fɔlɔ la, farati fila bɛ sɔrɔ: fɔlɔ, belayer ka frein bolo bɛ se ka sɔgɔ juru ni nɛgɛ teliyalan cɛ, o bɛ kɛ sababu ye u ka frein sirilan bila filanan, ni aw bɛ baara kɛ ni frein dɛmɛnan ye i n’a fɔ GriGri, GriGri nugu ni a ka kam bɛ se ka siri kosɛbɛ karabin teliyalen fɔlɔ duguma, o min bɛ cam gɛrɛ ka da wuli ani ka se sɔrɔ auto-locking mechanism kan. Aw bɛ aw ka frein bolo jigin tuma bɛɛ minɛn jukɔrɔ ani ka aw sen fila bɛɛ turu ka kɛɲɛ ni fara kogo ye ni aw bɛ sama ka taa sanfɛ walasa aw kɔkiliw ni aw ka minɛn ka yɔrɔ janya bololanɛgɛ la.

Gafe minnu bɛ tali kɛ o ko la¶

• Farakurun jiginni ni kabakurunw jiginni kasaara
• Canyoneering slot canyon pothole keeper jaan ni juru sirilen bɛ rappel kan
• Crevasse bin, glacier taama, yɛrɛminɛ, ani snow bridge bin
• Crampon snag, ice axe yɛrɛ minɛni névé jiginni kan, ani glissading spiral fracture hazard

Sosow ani ɲɛmɔgɔyaso ka bilasiralikan¶

• Dugukolo kan jiginni ni kuluw jiginni tɔnba (UIAA Lakanali Komisiɔn): UIAA ka sariyaw HMS (Halbmastwurfsicherung) Karabinɛw minnu bɛ da tugu, Munter Hitch Frein fanga, ani Mekaniki Dynamic Belay.
• Ameriki kuluw ɲɛminɛbagaw ka tɔn (AMGA) & Dugukolo kan kuluw ɲɛminɛbagaw ka tɔnba (IFMGA): Pitch kelen ani farakurun ɲɛminɛ gafe: Munter-Mule-Overhand (MMO) Lock-Offs, Ka boli Belay la, ani Counterbalance Rescue.
• Petzl ka baarada (Petzl, Faransi): Fɛɛrɛko kunnafoniw ka ɲɛsin Belay minɛnw ma minnu bɛ frein dɛmɛ (GriGri), Fɔlɔ-Bolt Collision Hazards, ani Improvised Munter Descenders.
• Angletɛri kuluw jiginni jɛkulu (BMC) & Alemaɲi ka kuluba (DAV Lakanali ɲinini): Belaying ni girinya danfara, Dugukolo kan ankɔri, ani Multi-Pitch Self-Rescue Protocols.
• Kungo kɔnɔ dɔgɔtɔrɔso jɛkulu (WMS) & Duniya Komisiɔn min bɛ Alps kuluw kisi (ICAR): Harness Suspension Trauma kunbɛnni ni a furakɛcogo (Orthostatic Intolerance) in Vertical Rescue kɔnɔ.