Ekyuma kya Belay ekisuuliddwa ku jjinja erya Multi-Pitch oba Belayer Esika Mu Bolt Esooka: Munter Hitch Escape¶

Fumbling n'okusuula ekyuma kyo ekya tubular belay (ATC / . Reverso) oba ekyuma ekiyamba okubuleeki (GriGri) Mita 200 wansi ku ffeesi y’olwazi eyeesimbye nga bakyuka ku ledge ya belay ey’amaloboozi amangi ewaniridde - oba okubeera n’omulinnyi w’omusulo omuzito akwata ekikonde ekikalu ekisika omukono oba ekyuma kyabwe mu kifo ekisooka eky’okusika amangu mu boluti - kireeta obuzibu obw’amangu obw’okukola emiguwa egy’okwesimbye. Awatali buleeki ya makanika, omulinnyi tasobola kukwata bulungi mukulembeze ng’agwa, okuleeta sekondi, oba okudduka okudda ku ttaka ng’akozesa emikono egy’obwereere gyokka (which will burn through skin to the bone in less than 2 meters of rope slip). Mu ngeri y’emu, omukulembeze agudde bw’awanirira nga tategedde oba nga tasobola kulaba wansi w’akasolya akawanvu ng’obuzito bwabwe bwonna busibye ku loopu yo eya harness belay, mu mubiri osibira ku jjinja okuggyako ng’omanyi okukyusa omugugu omulamu ku nnanga (Escaping the Belay).

Singa omulinnyi abadde agudde omukulembeze n’afuna obuvune ku mutwe, okumenya mu lujjudde, okulumwa okuyimirizibwa, oba okusibira ku bbugwe ow’ebisaawe ebingi oluvannyuma lw’enzikiza, kuba ku nnamba y’amangu mu kitundu kyo (911 mu Amerika ne Canada, . 112 okwetoloola omukago gwa Bulaaya, . 999 mu Bungereza), okutandikawo ettaala ya satellite SOS (Garmin inReach oba PLB), oba weebuuze ku ndagiriro yaffe ey’ensi yonna eya ennamba z’amangu oluvannyuma lw’omugugu gw’omuguwa okusibirwa n’ekintu ekiyitibwa Munter-Mule overhand hitch. Okufuna obulagirizi obugazi obw’obukuumi obw’okwesimbye n’obw’ensozi, laba obubenje bw’okulinnya amayinja n’okukuba amayinja, . canyoneering slot omutego gw'omukuumi w'ebinnya mu kiwonvu n'omuguwa ebikwatiddwa ku rappel, ne crevasse fall, okutambula mu glacier, okwekwata, n’okugwa kw’omutala gw’omuzira. Goberera amateeka ga Munter hitch rigging, carabiner spine-protection rules, first-bolt pinch release, n’enkola z’okutoloka mu kutambuza omugugu wansi.

Kino kikole kati¶

1. TOGGYA MUKONO GWA BREEKE KU LIVE CLIMBING ROPE: Singa lead climber agwa n’akusika okuva ku bigere byo n’ayingira mu bolt oba rock ledge esooka, kuuma omukono gwo ogwa brake nga gunywezeddwa bulungi wansi w’ekyuma kya belay (or maintain thumb-on-cam mechanical advantage only after stabilizing). Singa osuula ekyuma kyo ekya belay ku nnanga erimu ebipimo ebingi ng’abalinnya bombi basaliddwa bulungi nga bayita mu bipimo by’ennanga eby’obuntu (PAS oba clove hitch), kakasa nti abalinnya bombi basimbye ennanga enzibu nga tonnakwata ku mugogo gw’emiguwa.
2. LONDA EKYO EKINENE EKYA PEAR (HMS) OKUSIBIRA CARABINER OKUKYUSA EKYUMA KYA BELAY EKITUNDIBWA: Tunuulira harness rack yo era olonde carabiner yo esinga obugazi, ey’ekisero ekyekulungirivu ezisiba mu ngeri y’amapeera (marked with an encircled "H" for Halbmastwurfsicherung / Munter Hitch). Carabiner enfunda eringa D ekwata loopu z’emiguwa ne zitasobola kufuumuuka bulungi mu kibbo nga zikyusa wakati w’okusasula slack n’okutwala omuguwa.
3. SIBA EKIKOLA KY’OMITALIA / MUNTER HITCH DIRECTLY KU HMS CARABINER: Kola loopu bbiri ezitunudde mu ngeri ey’enjawulo mu muguwa ogw’okulinnya (like closing the pages of an open book oba okusuula ebitundu bibiri ebisiba mu ngeri ezitali zimu), ssika karabini y’okusiba HMS okuyita mu loopu zombi, era osike ekikomera ekisiba okuggalawo ddala. Gezesa ekikwaso ng’osika enkomerero zombi: kirina okufuumuuka obulungi okuyita mu nkomerero empanvu ey’ekisero ky’amapeera ng’ekola 2.0 to 3.0 kN wa capstan friction nga omuguwa gwa buleeki gukubiddwa nga gukwatagana n’omuguwa gw’omugugu.
4. KUUMA OMUTWE GWA BULEEKI WALA NGA LOCKING GATE SLEEVE: Bw’oba okola belaying oba rappelling ku Munter hitch, bulijjo orienta carabiner n’omukono gwo ogwa brake olwo omuguwa gwa buleeki ogutambula gunyige ku solid spine side ya carabiner - never across the screwgate barrel, where moving rope friction can spin the locking sleeve open era osumulule omuguwa nga oli ku mugugu.
5. GGALA EKYUMA KYA BELAY EKIZITO OBA MUNTER HITCH NGA OKOZESA MULE OVERHAND (MMO): Munno bw’agwa n’awanirira ku muguwa nga tategeera oba ng’alumiziddwa, kwata akaguwa ka buleeki n’omukono gumu osibe Mule Hitch backed up with an Overhand knot (Mule-Overhand) okwetoloola akaguwa k’omugugu akanywezeddwa waggulu ddala ku kyuma kya belay oba Munter hitch. Kino kifuula enkola eno obutaba na mikono gyonna ate ng’esigala ng’esumululwa wansi w’obuzito bw’omubiri obujjuvu.
6. KYUSA OMUTUNDU KU ANCHOR NGA PRUSIK OBA KLEMHEIST OKUDUKA KU BELAY: Belay bw’emala okusiba ne Mule-Overhand, ssaako a 6 to 7 mm omuguwa gwa nayirooni prusik (oba a Klemheist hitch tied with a sewn Dyneema/nylon sling) ku tight load strand mu maaso ga harness yo, clip the prusik tail mu anchor master point ng’oyita mu second locking carabiner ne adjustable Munter-Mule sling, era osumulule mpola harness yo Mule knot olwo anchor etwala ebitundu 100 ku 100 eby’obuzito bw’omulinnyi agudde.

Omuti gw’okusalawo: ekyuma kya belay ekisuuliddwa, okusika okusooka-bolt, n’okutoloka kwa belay¶

Kozesa ekipande kino eky’okununula ekyesimbye okulonda ekikonde ekituufu n’omutendera gw’okutambuza eby’ebyuma:

flowchart TD
    Crisis["Obuzibu bw’emiguwa egy’ennyiriri (vertical Rope Crisis) ku Multi-Pitch oba Sport Crag"] --> Scenario{"1. Embeera Ki ey’Amangu Eyagwawo?"}
    Scenario -->|"Yasudde ATC / GriGri ku Multi-Pitch Anchor"| PickHMS["Londa Largest Pear-Shaped (HMS) Locking Carabiner (Kozesa 2 Opposite-Gate Lockers singa Omuguwa ogw’emirundi ebiri ogukka)"]
    PickHMS --> TieMunter["Tie Munter Hitch: Kola loopu bbiri nga okuggalawo ekitabo ekiggule, clip HMS okuyita mu byombi, screw gate okuggalawo"]
    TieMunter --> CheckSpine["CRITICAL CHECK: Kakasa nti omuguwa gwa buleeki guddukira ku SOLID SPINE ya carabiner, toddukira ku screwgate sleeve"]
    CheckSpine --> Mode{"Belaying oba Rappelling?"}
    Mode -->|"Belaying Omukulembeze oba Omugoberezi"| BelayMunter["Kwata omuguwa gwa buleeki nga gukwatagana n’omuguwa gw’omugugu (180-deg wrap) okusobola okusikagana okusingawo; yambala ggalavu ez’amaliba"]
    Mode -->|"Rappelling Omuguwa gumu oba ogw’emirundi ebiri"| RappelMunter["Rig omukono ogw’okusatu autoblock/prusik backup ku loopu y’amagulu wansi wa Munter; wansi mpola okukendeeza ku kukyukakyuka kw’emiguwa"]
    Scenario -->|"Belayer Yasika & Pinched Ku 1st Bolt"| BoltPinch["Kuuma Omukono gwa Bbuleeki nga Gusibye; Siba ebigere ku bbugwe w’amayinja okukuba ebisambi emabega sentimita 15 n’okusumulula omukono okuva ku quickdraw"]
    BoltPinch --> Unclip1st{"Osobola Okusumulula Omuguwa Okuva Mu 1st Bolt Mu Bulungi?"}
    Unclip1st -->|"Climber Conscious & Okuggalawo"| LowerDown["Liisa mpola slack oba unclip 1st draw n'omukono ogw'eddembe once foot-braced kale belayer egwa okudda ku ttaka"]
    Scenario -->|"Omulinnyi Agudde Nga Awaniridde Nga Talabika / Alumiziddwa Ku Muguwa"| LockMule["OMUDDAALA 1: Siba Mule Hitch + Overhand Backup ku Load Strand okusiba Off Belay Device Hands-Free"]
    LockMule --> HitchLoad["OMUDDAALA 2: Siba 3-Wrap Prusik oba Klemheist ku Taut Load Strand Waggulu w’ekyuma kya Belay"]
    HitchLoad --> AnchorLink["OMUDDAALA 3: Okwongera Prusik okutuuka ku Anchor Master Point ng’okozesa Sling + HMS Munter-Mule"]
    AnchorLink --> ReleaseHar["OMUDDAALA 4: Pop Harness Mule Knot & Okuliisa Mpola Omuguwa Okutuusa Omugugu Gukyusiddwa 100% ku Anchor Prusik; Sumulula Harness yaayo"]

Omutendera 1: Engeri y’okukyusaamu ekyuma kya belay ekigudde n’ossaamu Munter Hitch (Italian Hitch) .¶

Buli mulinnya - ka kibeere nti alinnya mu muzannyo ku lwazi olwa ekisaawe kimu oba ng’alinnya bbugwe w’amayinja ag’ekisaawe kya alpine eky’ekisaawe 15 - alina okusobola okusiba n’okuddukanya Munter Hitch (Halbmastwurfsicherung / . HMS / . Italian Hitch) nga bazibye amaaso era nga ba mukono gumu. Munter hitch ye bidirectional friction hitch nga yeetaaga zero specialized belay hardware - omuguwa gwokka ogw'okulinnya ne karabiner ogusiba.

1. Omutendera ku mutendera Visual Geometry y’okusiba Munter Hitch¶

Goberera omutendera guno gwennyini ogw’emikono ogw’emitendera 4 oleme kusiba mu butanwa Clove Hitch eriko kkufulu oba slip loop etakwata: 1. Pinch a Horizontal Bight of Rope: Kwata omuguwa gw’okulinnya mu ngeri ey’okwesimbye mu maaso g’ekifuba kyo ng’emikono gyombi giwukanye sentimita 30 (yinsi 12), ng’engalo zitunudde ggwe (thumbs pointing outward away from each other). 2. Kyusa Engalo Ensajja Zombi Munda Okwolekera Ekifuba Kyo okukola Loops Bbiri ("The Open Book"): - Zingulula omukono gwo ogwa ddyo munda olwo engalo yo ensajja esonga mu kifuba kyo, okole Loop #1 (omuguwa we gusala mu maaso). - Zingulula omukono gwo ogwa kkono mu ndabirwamu ey’ekikontana (oba leeta loopu zombi wamu ku mabbali nga okuggalawo ebibikka ku kitabo ekiggule). - Okukakasa okulaba nga Tonnasala: Laba loopu ebbiri ezitudde ku mabbali. Omuguwa ogw'omu makkati ogugatta enkokola zombi gulina okutuula ku oludda lwe lumu (nga gukola omutala omutono ogwa "U" oba "spring" wakati w'enkokola zombi), ate emikira ebiri emiwanvu gifuluma okuva ku njuyi ez'enjawulo. (Singa loopu zombi zisala diagonally wakati nga "X", oba osibye Clove Hitch, ejja jam solid era tejja kukyusa.) 3. Clip Your HMS Pear-Shaped Locking Carabiner Okuyita mu Loops Zombi ne Belay Loop / Anchor: - Yisa ennyindo ya karabini yo empanvu eringa amapeera okuyita mu loopu zombi ez’emiguwa, gisibe mu loopu yo ey’okusiba (for lead belaying/rappelling) oba butereevu mu anchor master point (olw’okuleeta sekondi eddako okuva waggulu), era sikula omukono gw’okusiba guggale. 4. Okugezesa Emirimu Nga Tonnatikka: - Sika nnyo ku Climber (Load) Strand: coils ebbiri eza Munter hitch zijja kukyuka (invert) okuyita mu kibbo ekigazi ekya karabini y’amapeera nga kiriko pop ennyogovu ne cinch wansi okwetoloola omugugu gw’omugugu. - Kati ssika nnyo ku Brake Strand: ekikwaso kijja kukyuka emabega mu kkubo ery’ekikontana okuyita mu kibbo. Ekyo automatic flipping action kye kisobozesa Munter hitch byombi pay out slack (omukulembeze bw’alinnya waggulu) ne okukwata okugwa (omukulembeze bw’agwa) nga tazzeemu kuwuuta muguwa.

2. Bamakanika ba buleeki ba Munter Hitch abakulu n'obulabe bwa "Gate-Rub".¶

Okwawukanako n’ekyuma kya ATC eky’ekika kya tubular nga okusikagana kwa buleeki kuva mu kugoba omuguwa mu ngeri ya S-curve okwetoloola ebbaala ya karabini ng’omukono gwo ogwa buleeki gukutte WANSI (toward your hip), Munter hitch ekola okusikagana kwayo okusookerwako okuva mu omuguwa gwa buleeki nga guzinga ne gunyiga ku muguwa gwennyini (rope-on-rope capstan friction):

3. Okukyusakyusa Ebyuma Ebikoleddwa mu Belay / Rappel Bw’oba olina Oval Carabiners (The Carabiner Brake) .¶

Watya singa weetaaga okuvuba ekisaawe ekiwanvu ekyesimbye ku miguwa egy’emirundi ebiri oluvannyuma lw’okusuula ATC yo, era ng’oyagala okwewala okunyiga emiguwa egy’amaanyi (hocking) ekiva ku Munter hitch? Bw’oba olina spere oval oba D-shaped carabiners nnya ku mukaaga ku harness rack yo, osobola okukuŋŋaanya classic Monster / Carabiner Brake mu sikonda 45 (ng’okozesa carabiners bbiri ezikubiddwa emirundi ebiri nga frame ne cross-bar carabiners emu oba bbiri ezisaliddwa okubuna omugongo okukola S-bend friction bar efaananako ne old-school figure-eight oba Rappel Rack (Ekifo kya Rappel)). Wabula ku bitundu 95 ku 100 eby’embeera ez’amangu ezirimu amaloboozi amangi, HMS Munter Hitch + Leg-Loop Autoblock esinga ku sipiidi, yeetaaga ebitundu bibiri byokka ebya ggiya, era ekola ku byombi okukuba belaying ne rappelling.

Omutendera 2: Okuwonawo ng’okugwa kw’omulinnyi w’omusulo omuzito kusika belayer mu bbuutu esooka¶

Bwe a 90 kg (200 lb) lead climber agwa waggulu wa bolt eyookubiri oba eyokusatu nga belayed by a 55 kg (120 lb) munne ng’ayimiridde ku ttaka nga talina nnanga ya ttaka (1.6:1 weight ratio), okukuuma omutindo (momentum) kutongoza belayer etangaavu mita 3 ku 5 (fuuti 10 ku 16) butereevu waggulu mu mpewo. Mu kitundu kya sikonda, belayer ekuba mu bbugwe w’olwazi ku first bolt quickdraw.

1. Anatomy ya "First-Bolt Pinch" n'Engeri y'okuziyiza Okuleka¶

Singa belayer eba eyimiridde wala nnyo emabega okuva ku bbugwe oba ng’ekwata omukono gwayo ogwa buleeki waggulu ennyo waggulu wa ATC/GriGri ng’etongozebwa waggulu, ebintu bibiri eby’akatyabaga bibaawo ku bbulooka esooka: 1. The Brake-Hand Pinch: Omukono gwa buleeki gwa belayer gufuna okusonseka butereevu wakati w’omuguwa ogusituka ne carabiner eya wansi eya quickdraw esooka, ne gumenya engalo ne guwaliriza belayer okuleka omuguwa mu ngeri ey’okufumiitiriza. 2. The GriGri Cam-Open Trap: Singa ennyindo oba cam y’ekyuma ekiyamba okubuleeki (GriGri) ekuba butereevu wansi mu karabiner esooka eya quickdraw n’asigala ng’esibye ku kyuma ekiwanirira, quickdraw esika GriGri cam wansi mu kifo ekiggule/ekitaliiko kkufulu - n’esuula omukulembeze okutuukira ddala ku ttaka.

Eky’okukola Amangu Singa Osimbulwa Waggulu Ku Bolt Esooka:¶

• Eddaala 1: Kuuma Omukono Gwo ogwa Bbuleeki wansi era nga Gunywezeddwa: Serengesa omukono gwo ogwa buleeki wansi ng’oyolekera ekisambi kyo (never above the belay device).
• Eddaala 2: Simba Ebigere Bwombi mu Horizontally Against the Rock Face ("Stemming the Wall"): Tolekangako kifuba kyo n'ekisambi okukuba flush ku bolt hanger. Nga bw’obuuka waggulu, leeta amaviivi gombi waggulu osimbe ensowera z’engatto zo mu ngeri ya square ku bbugwe w’amayinja, ng’osika ebisambi byo sentimita 30 ku 45 (yinsi 12 ku 18) mu bbanga okuva ku ffeesi y’olwazi. Kino kikuuma ekyuma kyo ekya belay n’emikono nga tebirina quickdraw esooka.
• Eddaala 3: Okukka wansi nga Counterbalanced mu Mid-Air:
• Oluvannyuma lw’okugwa okuyimirira, ggwe (the lighter belayer) oba owaniridde mita 2.5 okuva ku ttaka wansi ddala wa Bolt #1, ate munno omuzito n’awanikiddwa mita 4 okuva ku ttaka wansi wa Bolt #2.
• Omulinnyi azitowa akwate omukono oba akwata mu bbugwe okuggya kkiro 15 ez’obuzito ku muguwa, oba yatika mpola okuggulawo lever yo eya GriGri / liisa mita emu eya controlled slack okuyita mu ATC yo so o okusituka sentimita 15 okutuusa ekyuma kyo lwe kikwata ku draw ate nga omulinnyi wo omuzito akka mpola ku ttaka. Ebigere by’omulinnyi bwe bimala okukwata ku kivundu, bisumulula omuguwa ne bikukka wansi n’odda wansi.
• What if the Belay Device Is Jammed Hard Into the First Quickdraw?: Kuuma omukono gwa buleeki yo nga gusibye, ssika ebigere byo ku bbugwe w’amayinja okwesigamira emabega, ssika quickdraw oba sling okuva ku harness yo okutuuka ku bolt hanger okutwala obuzito bwo bwe kiba kyetaagisa, oba omulinnyi amanyi okulinnya waggulu sentimita 30 ez’omuguwa okuva ku ludda lwabwe osobole okusumulula omuguwa okuva ku quickw esooka (putting you back on a clean top-rope path to lower them).

Omutendera 3: Okutoloka mu Belay (Load Transfer) ng’omulinnyi agudde alumizibwa oba ng’azirika¶

Teebereza ng’o belaying okuva ku stance oba anchor nga munno akwata hard fall around an overhanging corner (or down into a gully) era taddamu kuleekaana kwo. Obuzito bwazo obufu obujjuvu (70 to 90 kg) asika nnyo ku harness belay loop yo. Tosobola kuleka buleeki kugenda kuzikebera, okuwa obujjanjabi obusookerwako, oba okuzimba enkola ya haul okutuusa nga okoze Belay Escape.

1. Omutendera gw’okutoloka kwa Universal Belay ogw’emitendera 4 (Mule-Overhand + Prusik Load Transfer) .¶

Oba oli belaying okuva ku harness belay loop yo (redirected through a directional anchor) oba butereevu okuva ku anchor master point, goberera emitendera gino ena mu nsengeka enkakali ey’ebiseera:

Omutendera 1: Siba Ekyuma kya Belay Nga Okozesa Mule Hitch + Overhand Backup (MMO) .¶

Toleka GriGri oba ATC nga tosibye kikonde kya makanika, kuba cam etalina buzito oba ekankana esobola okwekulukuunya: 1. Kuuma omukono gwo ogwa buleeki nga gunywezeddwa bulungi ku luwuzi lwa buleeki wansi wa ATC oba GriGri. 2. Ng’okozesa omukono gwo ogw’eddembe (oba ng’okozesa emikono gyombi ng’okuuma okusika omuguwa ku luwuzi lwa buleeki), ssika bight (loop) y’oluwuzi lwa buleeki oluwanvu okuva emabega, ng’oyita wakati w’oluwuzi lw’omugugu olunywezeddwa n’oluwuzi lwa buleeki (or through the locking carabiner). 3. Zingira bight eyo emmanju okudda emabega okwetoloola taut load strand waggulu ddala w'ekyuma kya belay, era tuck bight eyookubiri ey'omukira gwa buleeki waggulu okuyita mu loopu gye waakakola - ng'ogisika snug ku load strand (this is the Mule Hitch). 4. Siba Mandatory Overhand Backup: Sika loopu ya Mule hitch okuvaayo okutuuka ku sentimita 20 (yinsi 8) obuwanvu era osibe Overhand knot ennyangu n'olukoba olwo okwetoloola akaguwa k'omugugu akanywezeddwa waggulu w'akaguwa ka Mule (oba ssika karabiner okuyita mu loopu ku muguwa gw'omugugu). 5. Wummuza mpola omukono gwo ogwa buleeki okukakasa Mule-Overhand (MMO) ekwata obuzito bw’omulinnyi ebitundu 100 ku 100 nga tolina ngalo.

Omutendera 2: Teeka ekintu ekiyitibwa Friction Hitch (Prusik oba Klemheist) Ku Taut Load Strand¶

Kati ng’emikono gyo gyombi giweddemu, olina okukwata omuguwa ogw’okulinnya oguzitowa mu maaso g’ekyuma kyo eky’oku belay osobole okukyusa obuzito obwo ku nnanga y’olwazi: 1. Sika a ** .6 mm oba 7 mm nayirooni ebikozesebwa omuguwa loopu** (or a 60 cm sewn nylon/Dyneema sling) okuva ku bbuutu yo. 2. Siba 3-wrap Prusik hitch (bw’oba okozesa round cord) oba 4-wrap Klemheist / Bachmann hitch (bw’oba okozesa flat webbing) butereevu okwetoloola omuguwa ogw’okulinnya ogunywezeddwa (the load strand) Sentimita 15 ku 25 (yinsi 6 ku 10) mu maaso g’ekyuma kyo ekya belay ekikubiddwa. 3. Yambala bulungi koyilo era oserenge Prusik mu maaso okuva ku bbulawuzi yo okutuusa lw’eluma nnyo ku muguwa ogw’okulinnya.

Omutendera 3: Gatta Friction Hitch ku Anchor Master Point nga okozesa Extendable Munter-Mule¶

Singa omala kusalako loopu empya eya Prusik butereevu mu kifo ekiyitibwa anchor master point, ojja kugifulumya otya oluvannyuma bw’oba weetaaga okukka munno? Fuula okuyungibwa kwa anchor okusumululwa wansi w'omugugu: 1. Clip a Ekifaananyi ky'amapeera (HMS) Okusiba Carabiner mu Anchor Master Point (or into a solid anchor bolt behind you). 2. Ddira sentimita 120 (double-length) sling oba omukira ogw’eddembe ogw’omuguwa ogw’okulinnya, ssika enkomerero emu mu Prusik loop ku luwuzi lw’omugugu, era enkomerero endala osibe mu karabini ya Anchor HMS ng’okozesa Munter Hitch esimbye bulungi nga bwe kisoboka, ng’osibye ne Mule-Overhand. - Pro Shortcut Using the Climbing Rope Tail: Bw’oba olina omuguwa omungi ogw’okulinnya ogwa sipeeya ogutumbiddwa ku bigere byo, teweetaaga na sling ey’enjawulo. Simply clip the Prusik loop directly into the Anchor Master Point with a locking carabiner, slide the Prusik as far forward toward the climber nga bw’egenda okutuuka okuggyayo slack zonna, era okozese ekyuma kyo ekiriwo ekya harness belay (oba Munter hitch ku anchor emabega wa Prusik) nga backup and lowering mechanism.

Omutendera 4: Kyuusa Omugugu Okuva ku Harness Yo okudda ku Anchor era osumulule¶

1. Sumulula Overhand backup era onyige Mule Hitch ku kyuma kyo ekya harness belay ng’okwata bulungi akaguwa ka buleeki mu ngalo za buleeki yo.
2. Liisa mpola sentimita ntono ez’omuguwa ng’oyita mu kyuma kyo eky’okusiba okutuusa nga Prusik hitch eyungiddwa ku nnanga esereba nnyo n’ekwata ebitundu 100 ku 100 eby’obuzito bw’omulinnyi agudde.
3. Sigala ng’oliisa slack okutuusa ng’omuguwa wakati w’ekyuma kyo ekya harness belay ne Prusik gugenda completely limp.
4. Siba ekikonde ky'okukuuma akatyabaga (a Figure-Eight-on-a-Bight) mu muguwa ogw’okulinnya ogwa slack emabega wa Prusik era ogusibe butereevu mu Anchor Master Point ng’okozesa carabiner esiba (so the fallen climber is now backed up by a hard knot on the anchor in case the Prusik ever slipped).
5. Sumulula ekyuma kya belay okuva ku harness yo. Kati osimattuse ddala belay - harness yo ya ddembe oku rappel wansi ku fixed line okujjanjaba munno alumizibwa (putting them in a horizontal seated splint to prevent suspension trauma), okulinnya ku ridge for cell service, oba okuzimba a 3:1 Enkola ya Z-drag haul okuzisitula okutuuka ku ledge.

Ennamba z’embeera ez’amangu mu bitundu n’ebiragiro by’ebitongole¶

Omulinnyi bw’afuna obuvune, nga tategeera mu kaguwa, oba ng’azirise ku bbugwe ow’ebipimo ebingi oluvannyuma lw’okufiirwa ggiya oba okugwa, tandikawo Technical Mountain Rescue amangu ddala:

• Amerika ne Canada:
• Kuba essimu 911 era saba omusindika mu bulambulukufu Technical Mountain Rescue (MRA / County Sheriff SAR Ttiimu y'emiguwa egy'enkoona enkulu).
• Munda mu ppaaka z’eggwanga ennene ezirinnya, kuba layini z’okusindika obutereevu SAR oba trigger a Garmin inReach / . PLB:
  • Ekibira ky'eggwanga ekya Yosemite (NPS YOSAR): Kuba essimu 911 oba (209) 379-1992.
  • Grand Teton / Olusozi lw'amayinja / Sayuuni / Joshua Tree National Parks: Kuba 911 oba Okusindika mu Paaka.
  • Canada (Squamish, Bugaboos, Banff, Ennyanja Louise, Canmore): Kuba essimu 911 oba Parks Canada Okusindika mu bwangu essaawa 24 ku 1-888-773-8888.
• Bungereza ne Ireland:
• Kuba essimu 999 oba 112, saba omuddukanya Police, n'oluvannyuma saba Mountain Rescue (MRT) (ku njazi mu Snowdonia/Eryri, Disitulikiti y’entikko, Disitulikiti y’ennyanja, ensozi za Scotland) oba HM Coastguard (Cliff Rescue) singa olinnya ku njazi z’ennyanja (nga Gogarth, Pembroke, Swanage, oba Cornwall).
• Omukago gwa Bulaaya n'ensozi za Alpine:
• Kuba essimu 112 (European Emergency Number) mu mawanga gonna aga EU.
• Bufalansa (Chamonix / Mont Blanc / Ekiwonvu kya Verdon / Calanques): Kuba essimu 112 oba PGHM (Peloton de Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne) ( ) .Chamonix: +33 4 50 53 16 89).
• Switzerland: Kuba ku REGA Air-Rescue ku... 1414 (+41 333 333 333 okuva ku SIM z’ensi yonna).
• Italy (Dolomites / Arco / Aosta): Kuba ku ssimu ya 112 oba 118 ku lwa CNSAS (Corpo Nazionale Soccorso Alpino e Speleologico).
• Austria & Germany: Kuba essimu 140 (Ekitongole ekidduukirira abantu mu nsozi za Austria Bergrettung) oba ** .112** (Bugirimaani Bergwacht).
• Australia ne New Zealand:
• Australia (Ensozi za Bbululu, Arapiles, Grampians, Ekifo ekinyweza ebikere): Kuba 000 (112 okuva ku masimu) n'okusaba Okunoonya n'okutaasa poliisi / Okununula mu vertikal (NSW Police Rescue / . VICSES).
• New Zealand (Ensozi za Darran, Aoraki / Olusozi Cook, Wanaka): Kuba essimu 111 ku lwa NZ Police SAR / Okununula ensozi za Alpine (ACR) oba okusitula a 406 MHz PLB.
• Asia ne Pacific:
• Mu Japan, kuba 110 (Ekitongole kya Poliisi ekidduukirira abantu ku nsozi). Mu Thailand (Tonsai / Railay sea cliffs), kuba ku Poliisi y'ebyobulambuzi (1155) oba EMS (1669).

Ebibuuzo ebitera okubuuzibwa¶

Okola otya belay oba rappel singa osuula ekyuma kyo ekya ATC oba GriGri belay ku multi-pitch climb?¶

Osobola okusiba omukulembeze awatali bulabe, okuleeta ekyokubiri, oba okukuba rappel okutuukira ddala ku ttaka ng’okozesa karabiner ennene yokka ey’okusiba eringa amapeera (ewandiikiddwako "H" ku HMS) ne Munter Hitch (era eyitibwa Italian Hitch). Kola loopu bbiri ezitunudde mu ngeri ey’enjawulo mu muguwa gw’okulinnya era ozigatte wamu ng’okuggalawo ebibikka ku kitabo ekiggule, olwo osala karabini yo ey’okusiba HMS okuyita mu loopu zombi n’osikula ekikomera. Olw’okuba loopu zombi zizinga munda mu kibbo ky’amapeera ekigazi, okukwata omuguwa gwa buleeki nga gukwatagana n’omuguwa gw’omugugu kireeta okusikagana okw’amaanyi okw’omuguwa ku muguwa okukwata okugwa ne kukyuka bulungi mu buli ludda.

Lwaki omuguwa gwa buleeki gwa Munter hitch tegulina kusiigako ku kikomera ekisiba karabini?¶

Bw’osasula slack, okutwala omuguwa, oba rappel ng’okozesa Munter hitch, omuguwa ogutambula gusika ku ludda olumu olw’ekisero kya carabiner. Singa Munter hitch eba etunudde bwe kityo omuguwa gwa buleeki ogutambula ne gusiiga okubuna ekipipa kya screwgate (oba twist-lock sleeve), omuguwa ogutambula gukola nga belt drive era gusobola okusumulula sleeve y’okusiba ne gusika gate okugguka nga gutikkiddwa, ne kisobozesa omuguwa okusumululwa okuva ku carabiner. Bulijjo kakasa nti omuguwa gwa buleeki gufuluma waggulu w’omugongo omugumu, ogutali gwa hingi gwa karabiner, oba kozesa karabiner bbiri ezisiba ezikontana n’ezikontana ku rappels enkulu.

Ntegeera ntya oba mu butanwa nsiba Clove Hitch mu kifo kya Munter Hitch?¶

Nga tonnatikka karabini, ssika mpola mu njuyi zombi ku miguwa gy’emiguwa ebiri. Munter hitch esibiddwa obulungi erina loopu zaayo ebbiri ezitudde ku mabbali ku mabbali n'omutala ogw'engeri ya U oguzigatta ku ludda olumu ("nga okuggalawo ekitabo ekiggule"), ekisobozesa hitch okukyusakyusa ("pop") okudda n'okudda okuyita mu nkomerero empanvu ey'ekisero kya karabini nga esimbuddwa mu buli ludda. Clove hitch esala diagonally wakati nga "X" era ejja cinch wansi tightly okwetoloola carabiner bar, okugaana okusereba oba flip nga ogisika.

Ekikonde kya Mule-Overhand (MMO) kye ki, era lwaki kikozesebwa okusiba belay?¶

Mule-Overhand (MMO) ye kkufulu eritaliiko ngalo erisibiddwa emabega w’ekyuma kya belay oba Munter hitch ng’okwata obuzito bw’omulinnyi agudde. Nga okuuma omukono gwo ogwa buleeki nga gunywevu ku luwuzi lwa buleeki, osika loopu (bight) y’omuguwa gwa buleeki omugonvu okwetooloola omuguwa ogw’omugugu ogunywezeddwa mu maaso g’ekyuma okukola ekikonde kya Mule eky’omulembe ogw’okuseerera, n’oluvannyuma n’osiba ekikonde kya Overhand n’olukoba olwo okwetooloola omuguwa gw’omugugu ng’ekiziyiza eky’obukuumi. Okwawukanako ne standard half-hitch ekwata wansi w’okugwa okw’amaanyi, Mule hitch esobola okuggulwawo mu ngeri ennyangu ne bw’oba ​​ng’ekutte obuzito bw’omulinnyi wa kilo 90 atategedde obuzito obufu.

"Okutoloka mu belay" kitegeeza ki, era ddi lwe weetaaga okukikola?¶

Okutoloka ku belay kitegeeza okukyusa obuzito bw’omulinnyi agudde, awaniridde okuva ku loopu yo eya ‘personal harness belay loop’ n’ogenda butereevu ku nnanga y’olwazi osobole okwesumulula okuva mu nkola. Olina okutoloka mu belay buli munno lw’agwa mu maaso okwetoloola overhang oba okuzirika/okulumwa n’atasobola kusumulula muguwa: sooka osibe ekyuma kyo ekya belay n’ekikonde kya Mule-Overhand, ekyokubiri osibe 3-wrap Prusik hitch ku muguwa ogunywevu ogw’okulinnya mu maaso go, eky’okusatu kwata Prusik oyo ku anchor master point ng’okozesa locking carabiner era sling, n'ekyokuna sumulula harness yo Mule knot kale anchor Prusik etwala 100% ku mugugu.

Lwaki kyabulabe singa belayer etangaala efuna okusimbulwa waggulu mu bolt esooka mu kiseera ky’okugwa kw’omusulo?¶

Omulinnyi w’omusulo omuzito bw’agwa n’atongoza ekyuma ekizitowa ku ttaka waggulu mu kiwujjo kya buleeki ekisooka, obulabe bubiri bubaawo: ekisooka, omukono gwa buleeki gwa bbuleeki guyinza okunyiga wakati w’omuguwa n’ekyuma ekisika amangu, ne kibaleetera okulekawo akaguwa ka buleeki; ekyokubiri, singa okozesa ekyuma ekiyamba okubuleeki nga GriGri, ennyindo ne cam ya GriGri bisobola okusibira ennyo wansi wa carabiner esooka eya quickdraw, ekisika cam okuggulawo n’ewangula enkola ya auto-locking mechanism. Bulijjo omukono gwo ogwa buleeki gukuume wansi wansi w’ekyuma era osimbe ebigere byombi nga biwanvuye ku bbugwe w’amayinja nga bw’osika waggulu okukuuma ebisambi byo n’ekyuma nga biva ku bbulooka.

Ebiragiro ebikwatagana nabyo¶

• Obubenje bw’okulinnya amayinja n’okukuba amayinja
• Canyoneering slot canyon pothole keeper omutego n'omuguwa ebikwatiddwa ku rappel
• Crevasse okugwa, okutambula mu glacier, okwekwata, n’okugwa kw’omutala gw’omuzira
• Crampon snag, ice axe okwekwata ku steep névé, n'akabi k'okumenya spiral glissading

Ensonda n’obulagirizi obutongole¶

• Ekibiina ekigatta abavuzi b’ensozi n’okulinnya ensozi mu nsi yonna (UIAA Akakiiko k’ebyokwerinda): Omutindo gwa UIAA ku HMS (Halbmastwurfsicherung) Okusiba Carabiners, Munter Hitch Braking Forces, ne Makanika ya Dynamic Belay.
• Ekibiina ekigatta abakulembeze b’ensozi mu Amerika (AMGA) & Ekibiina ky'ensi yonna ekigatta abakulembeze b'ensozi (IFMGA): Ekitabo ekilungamya eddoboozi erimu n’amayinja: Munter-Mule-Overhand (MMO) Okusiba, Okutoloka mu Belay, n’okununula mu Counterbalance.
• Ettendekero ly’ebyemikono erya Petzl (Petzl, Bufalansa): Ebirango eby’ekikugu ku byuma bya Belay ebiyambibwako buleeki (GriGri), Obulabe bw’okutomeragana kwa Bolti esooka, ne Improvised Munter Descenders.
• Olukiiko lwa Bungereza olw’okulinnya ensozi (BMC) & Ekibiina kya Girimaani eky'abasozi (DAV Okunoonyereza ku byokwerinda): Okubelaying n'enjawulo mu buzito, Ground Anchors, ne Multi-Pitch Self-Rescue Protocols.
• Ekibiina ky'abasawo mu ddungu (WMS) & Akakiiko k'ensi yonna akavunaanyizibwa ku kutaasa abantu ku nsozi (ICAR): Okuziyiza n'okuddukanya obuvune mu kuyimirizibwa kw'emiguwa (Orthostatic Intolerance) mu Kununula mu Vertical.