Hiʻiʻo glacial serac, hāʻule hau, a me nā ʻauwaha mauna¶

He mau hale kiaʻi nui ʻo Glacial seracs a i ʻole kolamu o ka hau hau hau i hoʻokumu ʻia i kahi e neʻe ai ka ʻili hau, ke awāwa glacier, a i ʻole ka glacier e kau ana ma luna o ka ʻāina pali ʻole. ʻIke ʻia i ka glaciology ma ke ʻano he hau hau, ʻo kēia ʻāpana haʻihaʻi e loaʻa i ka haʻalulu nui, e hoʻoulu ai i nā ʻāʻī hohonu a me ka longitudinal crevasses e hoʻokaʻawale i nā piko kiʻekiʻe o ka hau uliuli. ʻAʻole e like me nā papa hau hau i ka wā e koi pinepine ai i kahi mea hoʻoikaika ikaika e like me ka skier, mountaineer, a i ʻole holoholona, ​​glacial serac collapse e kuhikuhi ʻia e ka hoʻololi mau ʻana o ka hau kūloko, basal slip, gravity, a me ka wela. I ka wā e ʻako ai ka serac multi-ton i kahi pali, e puʻupuʻu ʻo ia i nā ʻōpala crystalline, e hoʻoulu ai i nā ʻāwaha hau kiʻekiʻe a me nā pahū ea supersonic compressed e holo ana ma nā ala mauna a me nā papa awāwa he mau kaukani mika ma lalo.

ʻO ka poʻe piʻi mauna kiʻekiʻe, ka poʻe alpine hikers, a me ka poʻe piʻi mauna e hele ana ma nā ala mauna glaciated ke alo i nā pōʻino kino mai ka hoʻokuʻu ʻia ʻana o ka hau hau. Hiki i kahi serac hāʻule hoʻokahi ke hoʻokuʻu i nā ʻumi tausani cubic mika o ka hau paʻa, e hana ana i kahi nalu kinetic pōʻino e holo ana ma waena o 150 a 350 mau kilomita i kēlā me kēia hola (93 a 217 mau mile i kēlā me kēia hola). Hoʻokuʻu kēia ao hau i ka nalu haʻalulu i hiki ke uhaʻi i nā māmā kanaka, e hoʻohaʻahaʻa i nā kahua hoʻomoana kiʻekiʻe, a me ka hoʻokuʻu ʻana i nā poloka hau nui ma waena o nā pahele ʻāina. Pono ke ola i ka hoʻomaopopo ʻana i ka loiloi pilikia glaciology, ka hoʻolālā ʻana i ke ala koʻikoʻi, ka pale ʻana i ka pōʻino uila, nā ʻenehana hoʻopakele crevasse kūpono, a me nā kuʻina palekana o ka hui.

E hana i kēia i kēia manawa¶

1. E hoʻokuʻu koke i ka laina hāʻule ma ka holo ʻana i ke ʻano ma kahi kihi 45-degere mai ka laina waena o ka hāʻule hau.
   • E hoʻokuʻu i nā mea hana ulia pōpilikia ʻole inā keakea ʻo ia i ka māmā holo kiʻekiʻe ma waena o ka moraine glacial ʻole a i ʻole nā ​​firn paʻakikī.
   • Mai ho'āʻo e holo ma mua o ka hāʻule ʻana o ka hau e hele pololei ana i lalo no ka mea e lele ana nā ʻōpala kinetic ma ka laina hāʻule me ka wikiwiki loa.
   • E ʻimi koke i kahi pale pale ma hope o nā kumu moe paʻa, nā kualono pōhaku maoli, a i ʻole ka lehelehe o loko o kahi ʻāʻī nui.
2. E hoʻopaʻa iā ʻoe iho i ka hau hau a i ʻole ka pōhaku paʻa inā loaʻa iā ʻoe ma ke ala o ka pahū pauda lua.
   • E hoʻokele pololei i kāu koʻi hau a i ʻole mea hana ʻenehana i ka hau paʻa a hiki i ka hohonu o ke poʻo a moe palahalaha ma kou ʻōpū e kū pono ana i lalo.
   • E uhi paʻa i kou waha a me kou ihu me ka puʻupuʻu, ka ʻāʻī ʻāʻī, a i ʻole ka lima lima lima e pale aku ai i ka asphyxiation mai nā kelika hau pulverized aspirated.
   • Huli i kou mau wāwae i lalo a eli i nā wahi crampon i mua o ka ʻili i mea e pale aku ai i ka hawewe haʻalulu nui mai ka hāpai ʻana i kou kino mai ka pali.
3. E hoʻololi i nā transceiver avalanche a pau e hoʻouna i ke ʻano ma mua o ke komo ʻana i ke kīʻaha a hōʻoia i nā pae pākaukau ma mua o 80 pakeneka.
   • E mālama pono i nā transceivers ma lalo o nā pūpū paʻakikī o waho e pale ai i ka nahā ʻana o nā kaula i ka wā o ka wikiwiki.
   • E hōʻoia i ka lawe ʻana o kēlā me kēia lālā o ka hui i kahi ʻimi ʻānai me ka lōʻihi liʻiliʻi he 280 kenimika (110 iniha) a me kahi koʻi hoʻoheheʻe metala.
   • E hōʻoia i ka piha ʻana o nā pūʻolo airbag avalanche, me nā lima hoʻoheheʻe i kau ʻia ma waho o nā ʻeke poʻohiwi.
4. E hoʻopololei koke i kāu ʻeke ea hāwanawana inā i kahili ʻia e ka hau hau a i ʻole ka papa hau lua.
   • Huki i ka lima hoʻomaka i lalo a i waho me ka neʻe paʻa mau ma mua o ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana o ke kahe haunaele i kou mau lima i kou ʻōpū.
   • E hakakā no ka mālama ʻana i kahi ʻauʻau pololei ʻoiai ke kīkī ikaika ʻana i kou mau kāmaʻa e noho kokoke i ka ʻili luna o ke kahe o ka ʻōpala.
   • E kīʻaha i hoʻokahi lima ma luna o kou ihu a me kou waha i nā kekona hope loa o ka hoʻohaʻahaʻa ʻana e hana i kahi ʻeke hanu hāmama ma mua o ka hoʻokumu ʻana o ka hau.
5. E hoʻopaʻa i ke kauoha hoʻokō koke a hoʻomaka i ka huli transceiver i loko o 60 kekona ma hope o ka hopu ʻana.
   • E hōʻoia e hoʻololi koke nā lālā o ka hui i kanu ʻole ʻia i kā lākou transceiver e loaʻa a i ʻole ke ʻano huli.
   • E nānā makaʻala i ka ʻāpana o ka ʻōpala no nā pou ski i hoʻolei ʻia, nā lole i luna, nā ala kāmaʻa, a i ʻole nā ​​lole ʻeke ea i hoʻonohonoho ʻia.
   • Kāhea i kāu helu ulia pōpilikia kūloko (911 ma ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa a me Kanada, 112 ma waena o ka European Union, 999 ma United Kingdom) a i ʻole e hoʻāla i nā beacon satellite SOS ma o helu pilikia.

ʻO Glaciology a me nā mīkini o ka hau e hāʻule ana¶

Pono ka hoʻomaopopo ʻana i ke kūpaʻa serac i ka nānā ʻana i ka hoʻololi ʻana o ka hau glacial ma lalo o ke koʻikoʻi mechanical a me ka umekaumaha. ʻO nā glaciers nā kino ikaika o ka firn rerystallized e hana like me nā paʻa viscoelastic. Ma nā ʻāpana o luna, hana maʻalahi ka hau hau, e hana ana i nā haʻihaʻi a me nā ʻāpana a hiki i ka 30 mika (98 kapuaʻi). Ma lalo o kēia hohonu, hoʻoneʻe ka lithostatic pressure i ka hau i loko o ka hoʻololi ʻana i ka plastik, e hiki ai ke kahe ʻana ma luna o nā undulations moe.

I ka wā e kahe ai ka glacier ma luna o ka haʻihaʻi a i ʻole ka pali, ʻoi aku ke koʻikoʻi o ka tensile i ka ikaika o ka hau. ʻO ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻia ʻana e hoʻolōʻihi i ka glacier, e hoʻokumu ana i nā ʻoihana transverse crevasse nui. ʻO nā poloka pākahi ma waena o kēia mau ʻāʻī e lilo i kia kaʻawale, i ʻike ʻia e nā glaciologists a me nā piʻi mauna he seracs.

Hiki ke hāʻule o kahi serac ma nā mokulele holomua mechanical. Ke hilinaʻi nei ka hale kiaʻi hau kaʻawale i waho, hoʻohana ka ʻumekaumaha i ka torque eccentric mau ma kona kumu. Hoʻolaha ʻia ka micro-cracking ma nā palena o ka hua hau i ka wā o ka kolo wikiwiki ʻana. ʻAʻole e like me nā hāʻule pōhaku, e hāʻawi pinepine ana i nā hāʻule ʻiliʻili mua a i ʻole ke kani ʻana, hiki ke hāmau ka hau a hiki i ka paʻi ʻana o ka ligament tensile mua.

Hoʻololi ke ʻano wela i ka shear basal, ʻoiai ʻaʻole lākou e kuhikuhi pololei i ka manawa hāʻule. Hoʻomaʻamaʻa ka pāhawewe lā i nā haʻihaʻi o ka ʻili, e hoʻolei i ka wai wai i loko o nā lua o loko. Hoʻokomo kēia wai hoʻoheheʻe i ke kaomi hydrostatic e kūʻē i nā paia crevasse, e wehe ana i nā haʻihaʻi ma o ka hydro-fracture. Hoʻomaʻamaʻa ka wai hoʻoheheʻe sub-glacial i ka wahi e pili ana i kahi moe, e hoʻolalelale ana i ka nui o ka hoʻoheheʻe basal a me ka hoʻohaumia ʻana i ka wāwae o nā seracs e kau ana.

ʻO nā ʻano hana hoʻoheheʻe sub-zero he mea weliweli a pinepine. Hoʻokaʻawale pinepine nā serac kiʻekiʻe i ka wā anuanu i ka pō a i ke kakahiaka nui paha. Hana ʻia ka ʻoki ʻana i ka wela ke hāʻule koke ka mahana o ka ʻili e hoʻoemi ʻokoʻa ma waena o nā papa hau o waho a me ka hau o loko. Hoʻopuka kēia ʻokiʻoki koke i nā koʻikoʻi tensile kiʻekiʻe e hoʻomaka ai i ka hāʻule ʻole koke me nā nāwaliwali o ke kūkulu ʻana.

flowchart TD
    A["Kahe hau ma luna o ka haʻi pōhaku"] --> B["Hoʻonui ʻia ʻo Tensile Crevassing"]
    B --> C["Hoʻokaʻawale ʻia nā Pinnacle Serac Vertical"]
    C --> D{"Mechanism Trigger"}
    D -->|"ʻO ka hoʻoheheʻe wai a me ka heheʻe o ka lā"| E["ʻO ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻana i ka wai hoʻoheheʻe a me ka basal slip"]
    D -->|"ʻO ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻia ʻana o ka Plastic Creep Deformation"| F["Ke hili 'ana i ka umekaumaha mau"]
    D -->|"Hoʻohāʻiliʻili Thermal"| G["ʻO ka haʻihaʻi haʻihaʻi i ke anu ma lalo o ka zero"]
    E --> H["ʻO ka Shear Structural Catastrophic"]
    F --> H
    G --> H
    H --> I["Kahe o ka hau o ka hau kiekie"]
    I --> J["Pahū Lewa Lewa i hoʻopaʻa ʻia"]
    I --> K["Ka Hoolewa Pahele Hohonu"]

Nā ʻano ʻano ʻānoʻi mauna ma ka ʻāina alpine glaciated¶

Nā hāʻule hau¶

ʻO ka hāʻule ʻana o ka hau he mau puʻupuʻu i haki ʻia o ka hau hau nui mai nā ʻāpana ʻiliʻili maikaʻi a hiki i nā poloka nui e like me ka nui o nā hale he nui. He 850 a 910 kilokani no ka mita cubic (53 a 57 paona no ka kapuai cubic) ka nui o ka hau hau, e like me 50 a 400 kilokani no ka mita cubic no ka hau kau. Ma muli o kēia mānoanoa nui loa, loaʻa i ka hāʻule hau hau ka ikehu kinetic nui e hoʻopau i nā mea āpau ma kona ala pololei.

ʻO ke ao pauka a me ka pahū ʻana o ka ea¶

I ka wā e hāʻule ai nā tausani metric tons o ka hau i lalo o nā poʻo poʻo poʻo, e komo ka nui o ka ea i ka nui o ka ea. Hoʻopiʻi koke ʻia ka ea ma lalo o nā ʻōpala e hāʻule ana a hoʻoneʻe ʻia i waho i ka wikiwiki o ka makani. Hoʻomaopopo ka poʻe Glaciologists a me ka poʻe loea hoʻopakele mauna i kēia ʻano ma ke ʻano he avalanche air blast a i ʻole ka nalu haʻalulu.

ʻO nā ʻauwaha papa aloha lua¶

ʻAʻole hiki ke hana kaʻawale ka serac hāʻule inā uhi ka hau i nā pali a puni. ʻO ka haʻalulu o ka ʻāina seismic a me ka nalu haʻalulu aerodynamic i hana ʻia e kahi hāʻule hau e hiki ke hoʻoulu i nā papa hau paʻa ʻole ma nā kua a me nā alo e pili ana. Hiki ke hoʻokuʻu ʻia kahi haki lei aliʻi nui i nā haneli mau mika ākea ma kahi ala mauna holoʻokoʻa.

Ka loiloi pilikia a me ka loiloi pilikia glaciology¶

ʻO ka piʻi mauna palekana ma ka ʻāina glaciated e pili ana i ka ʻike ʻana i nā hae ʻulaʻula i kūkulu ʻia ma mua o ka hele ʻana i kahi ʻāpana holo. ʻOiai ʻaʻole hiki ke wānana i nā hanana hāʻule o ka serac me ka pololei o ka minuke i kēlā me kēia minuke, hōʻike nā hōʻailona glaciological ākea inā he hau hau i loko o kahi pōʻai hāʻule ikaika.

Nā hōʻailona hiʻona o ka paʻa ʻole o ka serac¶

ʻO ka nānā pono ʻana me nā binocular hoʻonui kiʻekiʻe a i ʻole nā ʻike maka mai kahi kūlana palekana e hōʻike ana i ka ʻike kumu koʻikoʻi:

• ʻO ka waihoʻoluʻu ʻāhaʻi hou: ʻIke ʻia nā ʻili hau hou i ʻike ʻia i ka ʻulaʻula cobalt a i ʻole ka turquoise hohonu me nā ʻaoʻao ʻoi aʻe. Hoʻopau ka hau kahiko a paʻa i ka wā i kahi ʻeleʻele, poepoe, ʻano keʻokeʻo keʻokeʻo ma muli o ka hoʻohaʻahaʻa ʻana i ka ʻili a me ka pāhawewe lā.
• Hoʻomoe ʻia nā ʻōpala i loko o nā cones holo: E nānā i ka ʻāpana hōʻiliʻili ma lalo o ka hāʻule hau. Hōʻike nā poloka hau hou, ʻaʻole i hoʻopaʻa ʻia e kau ana ma luna o ka hau hou i ka hana mau i loko o nā hola he 12 a 24.
• Ka nui o ka hoʻonui ʻia ʻana o ka ʻāʻī: ʻO ka hoʻonui ʻana i nā āwaha ma hope o nā serac hilinaʻi e hōʻike ana i ka nui o ke koʻikoʻi. Inā e hoʻonui nui ʻia kahi ʻāpana e hoʻokaʻawale ana i kahi serac mai ka glacier nui i nā lā he nui, ua kokoke mai ka pōʻino.
• ʻO nā ʻāpana hau e hilinaʻi ana ma mua o 10 a 15 degere ma mua o ke kūpaʻa e waiho i ke kikowaena o ka nui ma waho o ko lākou mau kapuaʻi basal kākoʻo, me ka hilinaʻi holoʻokoʻa i ka ikaika tensile o loko e hōʻemi koke ʻia ma lalo o ke kolo plastik.
• Ka lepo mau a i ʻole ka pauda hoʻoheheʻe ʻia: ʻO nā kelika hau maikaʻi a i ʻole ka hau hau e hāʻule mau ana mai ke alo o kahi serac e hōʻike ana i ka hiki ʻole o ka shear e hoʻolaha ana ma nā laina koʻikoʻi o loko.

flowchart TD
    A["E hōʻea i ka Lae Nānā Ma waho o ka ʻĀina Holoi"] --> B["E nānā i ka hau hau me ka Optical"]
    B --> C{"E nānā i ke kala Scarp"}
    C -->|"Polu Cobalt nani"| D["Haʻihaʻi ʻeleu i loko o 24 mau hola: Pilikia Loa"]
    C -->|"Chalky Opaque White"| E["ʻO Kahiko ʻAʻole Hoʻoikaika ʻia: Hazard Baseline"]
    B --> F{"E nānā i ka ʻōpala Runout"}
    F -->|"ʻO nā poloka ʻāhaʻi hou ma luna o ka hau"| D
    F -->|"Na Poe Poe Kahiko i hehee ai"| E
    D --> G["Mai komo: E ʻimi i kahi ala ʻē aʻe"]
    E --> H{"Hiki ke hele i ka ʻāpana i ka pōʻeleʻele a i ke kakahiaka paha?"}
    H -->|"ʻAe: ʻO ke anuanu ma lalo o -5C"| I["E hoʻokō i ka holo kaʻa hoʻokahi faila wikiwiki"]
    H -->|"ʻAʻole: Ke kokoke mai nei ka wela o ka lā"| G

Nā mea hoʻoulu kaiapuni a me ka manawa o ka lā¶

Hōʻike nā moʻolelo piʻi mōʻaukala a me nā ʻōnaehana kamera glaciological automated e hiki ke hāʻule serac i kēlā me kēia hola o ke ao a i ka pō. ʻAʻole hiamoe ka ʻumekaumaha, a e hana mau ana ka ʻili i loko me ka nānā ʻole i ka piʻi ʻana o ka lā. Eia nō naʻe, hōʻike nā ʻikepili empirical i nā spike ʻokoʻa i ka alapine hāʻule i ka wā o ka hoʻololi kaiapuni.

Pono e hoʻolālā ʻia ka huakaʻi ma waena a ma lalo paha o kahi hāʻule hau i ka puka aniani o ka pōʻino helu haʻahaʻa loa, ma waena o 1:00 AM a 5:00 AM. I loko o kēia mau hola mua, ua hoʻohaʻahaʻa mau ka mahana o ka ea, ua maloʻo ka wai hoʻoheheʻe o ka ʻili, a ua hoʻopaʻa ka hoʻoluʻu radiational nocturnal i ka pahu hau kau. ʻO ka manawa e pā pololei ai ka lā o ke kakahiaka i ka maka o ka hāʻule hau, ka hoʻonui ʻana i ka wela a me ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻana o ka ʻili e hoʻonui nui i ka hiki ke hāʻule.

ʻO ka neʻe ʻana i ka tactical ma o ka hau hau a me nā ʻāpana hala¶

Hoʻomaka ka alpine a me ka hoʻolālā manawa¶

ʻAʻole hoʻomaka ka alpine he haʻalele i ke kakahiaka nui. He kālā manawa i hoʻonohonoho pono ʻia e hoʻomaʻemaʻe i nā wahi pōʻino āpau ma mua o ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ka hoʻomehana ʻana o ka lā. E helu i ka huina laina laina ma waena o ka pōʻino holo ʻokoʻa a puʻunaue i ka wikiwiki o ka neʻe ʻana o ka hui ma luna o ka ʻāina paʻakikī.

Inā holo ka hui ma 1 kilomika i kēlā me kēia hola (0.62 mau mile i kēlā me kēia hola) ma o nā kīhāpai haʻihaʻi a he 2 kilomika (1.24 mau mile) ka puka aniani hōʻike. Inā kū ka lā i ka paia serac luna i ka hola 6:30 AM, pono e hele loa ka hui ma kahi pōʻino ma ka hola 6:00 AM. Pono kēia e heʻe i ka lihi haʻahaʻa o ka ʻāpana holo ma mua o 4:00 AM. Inā hiki ke lohi i ka wā o ka hoʻokokoke ʻana, pono ka hui e hoʻōki i ka hele ʻana ma mua o ke kī ʻana i ke ao.

Hoʻokahi-faila kaawale me ka neʻe ʻana o ka hui kaula¶

ʻO ka hoʻokele ʻana i ka ʻāina glaciated e hōʻike ana i kahi hakakā maʻamau: pono nā hui kaula e ola i ka hāʻule ʻana o ka crevasse, akā ʻo ka hui pū ʻana o nā lālā hui e hoʻonui i ka manawa transit hui a hoʻopili i nā hoa inā loaʻa i ka avalanche.

Ke hele pololei nei ma lalo o kahi serac e kau ana ma kahi e liʻiliʻi ai nā pōʻino o ka lua, ʻoi aku ka palekana o ka wehe ʻana a i ʻole ka neʻe ʻana i nā sprints ākea ākea ma mua o ka neʻe ʻana o ka hui i hoʻopaʻa ʻia. Holo ka mea piʻi ma luna o ka couloir pilikia nui i kahi mokupuni pōhaku i koho ʻia a i ʻole spur pale ʻia, e mālama ana i ka wati ʻike ma ka serac luna. Ke hoʻokumu ʻia i kahi palekana, e holomua ka mea piʻi aʻe. Inā kū ka ʻāʻī i ka laina hāʻule, pono ke neʻe ʻana i ke kaula, akā pono nā lālā o ka hui e neʻe like i ka wikiwiki hoʻomau me ka ʻole o ka hoʻomaha ʻana e kamaʻilio a hoʻoponopono i nā lole.

Hoʻopau i nā hoʻomaha pono ʻole¶

E hoʻokumu i kahi protocol zero-pause koʻikoʻi i loko o ke anapuni pilikia:

• E wehe i lalo i nā papa piʻi hanu ma mua o ke komo ʻana i ke kīʻaha e pale i ka wela a me ka hoʻōki ʻana.
• E ʻai i ka meaʻai calorie kiʻekiʻe a inu i nā wai mehana mai nā ipu i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i ka wā e kali ana ma ka wahi hoʻokūkū ma waho o ka laina holo.
• E kau i nā wili hau, nā carabiners, a me nā pulley hoʻopakele crevasse ma nā puka lou i mua.
• Papa ʻia ke kamaʻilio maʻamau, headphone, a i ʻole nā ​​mea hoʻohilahila e mālama i ka ʻike kūmau. E hoʻolohe mau i ka pop muffled nawaliwali a i ʻole ka puʻupuʻu pohā ma mua o ka hoʻokaʻawale serac.

ʻO nā ʻano hana haʻalele i ka wā e hāʻule ai kahi serac ma luna ou¶

Inā ʻoki kahi serac i ka mauna ma luna o kou kūlana, ʻo ka hoʻololi kino koke ʻana i nā kekona mua ʻekolu a ʻelima paha e kuhikuhi i ke ola. ʻAʻole waiho ka wikiwiki o ka hāʻule ʻana o nā ʻōpala i ka manawa no ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa hui a kūkākūkā paha.

flowchart TD
    A["ʻIke ʻia a ʻike ʻia paha o Serac Detachment"] --> B["Ho'ōho Alarm: Avalanche Alert to All Team"]
    B --> C["E nānā i luna no 1 a 2 kekona no ka Triangulate Vector"]
    C --> D{"Hiki iā ʻoe ke holoi i ka ʻōpala Centerline?"}
    D -->|"ʻAe: Hiki i ka mamao ke pakele"| E["Sprint 45 Degrees Cross-Slope to Flank"]
    D -->|"ʻAʻole: ʻAʻohe ʻAla Kūleʻa a Nui"| F{"Loaʻa anei ka ʻāina pale?"}
    E --> G["Hoʻomaʻemaʻe i ke ala a lawe i kahi malu pōhaku Deflective"]
    F -->|"Lehelehe Deep Crevasse Kokoke"| H["E lele i ka lehelehe o loko o Crevasse i pale ʻia"]
    F -->|"Pākuʻi Pōhaku Paʻa Kokoke"| I["Malu Ma hope o ka ʻaoʻao iho o Granite Spire"]
    F -->|"Wehe i ka pali me ka uhi ole"| J["Paahana hau heleuma hohonu, moe palahalaha, alo ilalo"]
    H --> K["E uhi i ke ala ea a me ke kākoʻo no ka hawewe haʻalulu"]
    I --> K
    J --> K

ʻO ka pahu hoʻoheheʻe triangular koke¶

Mai holo pololei i lalo i kahi o ka avalanche. Holo wikiwiki ka hau a me ka hau i ka puʻu, maʻalahi e loaʻa i ka poʻe holo elite. Akā, e holo koke ma ka ʻaoʻao a i ʻole ma kahi kihi 45-degere kea i ka palena topographical kokoke loa.

Ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka micro-terrain pale¶

Ke pale ka ʻāina palahalaha a i ʻole ka nui o ka ʻōpala i ka pakele ʻana i ka ʻāpana holo, e hoʻohana i ka micro-terrain kūlohelohe e pale i kou kino mai ka ʻohi ʻana i nā ikaika kinetic:

• ʻO ka lehelehe o loko o kahi puʻupuʻu: Inā pili koke ka ʻākea ākea a paʻa i kou kūlana, ʻo ka iho ʻana i lalo i kahi papa o loko a i ʻole ka heleuma ʻana i ka lehelehe i lalo hiki ke pale iā ʻoe mai ka ʻōpala o ka ʻili. E hoʻopaʻa ʻia nā poloka hau i ka lua hāmama, e ʻeha ana ma luna o kou poʻo. E hōʻoia ʻaʻole e hoʻoheheʻe pololei ʻia ka lua i loko o kahi pahele ʻāina hope.
• ʻO ka ʻaoʻao o ka puʻu pōhaku: ʻO nā puʻu pōhaku nui, nā nunataks, a i ʻole nā ​​iwi ʻaoʻao moe e hoʻihoʻi hou i nā ʻōpala iho a puni ko lākou ʻaoʻao. ʻO ka paʻi paʻa ʻana i kou kino i ka ʻaoʻao iho o ka maka pōhaku kūpaʻa e pale iā ʻoe mai ka hāʻule ʻana o nā pōhaku hau.
• Nā kuamoʻo Moraine: ʻO ka holo ʻana ma luna o ka ʻaoʻao pahi o ka moraine ʻaoʻao e hoʻokiʻekiʻe i kou kūlana ma luna o ka auwai maoli kahi e hoʻolele ai nā ʻōpala hau.

Hoʻopaʻa kūʻē i ka pahū lewa¶

Inā loaʻa iā ia ma ke ala o ke ao pauda lua a me ka pahū ʻana o ka ea ma nā pali hāmama, e hoʻohana i ka mea hoʻopaʻa paʻa ʻino:

1. E hoʻolele i kāu mau mea hana hau a hiki i ka hohonu loa: E kanu i nā ʻohi a me nā koʻi o nā mea hau ʻelua i loko o ka hau paʻa a i ʻole ka hau polū.
2. E hoʻopololei i ke poʻo o kou kino i luna, kūlou, a palahalaha: E moe palahalaha ma kou ʻōpū. E hōʻemi i kāu ʻaoʻao aerodynamic no laila e hele ka nalu haʻalulu i kou kua me ka ʻole o lalo o kou umauma.
3. E kīkoʻo i kou mau wahi mua i ka pali: E hohola i kou mau wāwae ākea, e hoʻolei i kou mau maka mua i loko o ka hau, a e hoʻopaʻa i kou mau ʻiʻo kumu e pale aku i nā ikaika hāpai ikaika.
4. E pale i kou ala hanu hanu: E kanu pololei i kou maka i loko o kou kuʻe lima a huki paha i kou kola ma luna o kou ihu. E pani paʻa i kou waha a hanu pāpaʻu ma ka lole e kānana i ka lepo hau kiʻekiʻe.

Nā pōʻino Crevasse a me nā hana hoʻopakele ʻenehana¶

Hoʻokuʻu pinepine ʻia ka poʻe pōʻino i loko o nā lua hāmama a i uhi ʻia paha i ka hau. ʻO ka mea i hoʻomaka e like me ke kanu ʻana i ka avalanche e hoʻololi koke i kahi hoʻopakele ʻenehana subterranean i loko o nā chasms hau.

Crevasse hāʻule dynamics ma lalo o ka avalanche hoʻouka¶

Ke hili ʻia ka mea piʻi i loko o ka lua e ka hāʻule hau, ua hoʻonui ʻia ka ikaika i hana ʻia ma ka hui kaula me ka nui kinetic o ka hau paheʻe. Hiki i ke kaula ke oki hohonu i ka lehelehe hau o ka lua, e hana ana i kahi awawa ku'i e ho'opa'a i ke kaula ma kahi e pa'akikī ai ka hana hukihuki.

Ke kūkulu ʻana i ka hau a me nā heleuma hau¶

Ke hopu ʻia ka hāʻule ʻana, ʻaʻole hiki i ka mea piʻi hopu ke hoʻopaʻa mau i ke kaumaha o ka mea i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i ka wā e hoʻoponopono ai i ka hoʻopakele. Pono ʻoe e kūkulu i kahi heleuma pakele no ka hoʻoili ʻana i ka ukana mai kāu puʻa:

• T-slot deadman heleuma: I loko o ka hohonu o ke kau, e eli i ka auwaha e ku pono ana i ka laina haule 50 a 80 kenimika (20 a 31 iniha) ka hohonu. E hoʻopaʻa i ka maʻa piʻi a puni ke koʻi hau, ka pahi ʻoi metala, a i ʻole ka hau hau. E kau i ka mea hana ma ka ʻauwaha, e ʻoki i kahi ala puka haiki no ka maʻa i ka lua, a kanu i ke anaina, me ka hehi ʻana i ka hau.
• Uila v-wili (Abalakov) heleuma hau: I loko o ka hau hau, e hana i kahi heleuma V-wili. E ho ohana i ka wili hau he 22 kenimika (8.7-inihi) e wili ai i elua puka hui ma na kihi 45-degere, e hana ana i kahi tunnel hau triangular i loko. E wili i ke kaula nylon 7-milimika a i ʻole ka wīwī tubular ma o ke kahawai e hoʻohana ana i ka makau uea a me ka puʻupuʻu me ka puka lawaiʻa ma luna a i ʻole pālua. Hiki i kēia heleuma ke kū i nā ukana ma mua o 10 a 12 kilonewtons.

flowchart TD
    A["Hopu i ka haule ana o Crevasse ma ke kaula"] --> B["E hōʻoia i ka maikaʻi o ka hau/hau ma ke kūlana hopu"]
    B --> C{"Kauwaena o ka Ili?"}
    C -->|"Deep Firn a i ʻole hau mānoanoa"| D["E eli i 60-80 knm auwaha no T-Slot Deadman"]
    C -->|"ʻO ka hau ʻāuliuli ʻulaʻula"| E["E wili i nā lua māhoe 45-degere no ka milo V"]
    D --> F["E kanu i ka Ice Axe / Shovel Deadman a me Pack Hard"]
    E --> G["Uila 7mm kaula me ka mea hana Uea a me ka Loop Loop"]
    F --> H["E hoʻopili i ka Friction Hitch Prusik i ke kaula i hoʻouka ʻia"]
    G --> H
    H --> I["E hoʻoili i ka ukana ma luna o ka heleuma ma o Friction Hitch"]
    I --> J["Pakele i ka Pūnaehana a nānā iā Crevasse Lip"]

Pūnaehana huki: 3-a-1 Z-pulley mechanics¶

Ke hoʻopaʻa ʻia ka heleuma a hoʻoneʻe ʻia ka haʻawe, e hoʻopili i kahi ʻōnaehana huki pono mechanical e hoʻokuʻu i ka mea i hoʻopilikia ʻia:

1. E pale i ka lehelehe ʻākea: E hoʻouhi i ka ʻaoʻao o ka lua me ke koʻi hau, ka ʻōʻō a i ʻole ka ʻeke ʻeke i mea e pale aku ai i ke kaula i hoʻouka ʻia mai ka ʻauwaha hohonu i ka hau.
2. E hoʻopaʻa i kahi mea hoʻopaʻa kiʻi holomua: E kau i kahi mīkini piʻi kiʻekiʻe a i ʻole autoblock friction hitch ma ke kaula i hoʻouka ʻia ma ka heleuma, e hoʻopili iā ia me kahi carabiner laka. Mālama kēia i ka paheʻe ʻana o ke kaula i hope i ka wā huki huki.
3. E hoʻokuʻu i ka pulley kaʻahele: E hoʻouna i ka loop loop o ke kaula i ka lua. E hoʻopili i kahi lua piʻi a i ʻole Prusik loop ma luna o ka laina i hoʻouka ʻia a hiki i lalo i ka lehelehe e like me ka palekana. E ʻoki i kahi pulley holomua māmā i loko o kēia Prusik.
4. Hoʻihoʻi hou i ka 3-a-1 Z-rig: E hoʻohuli i ke kaula manuahi e hele mai ana mai ka heleuma ma o ka pulley hele a hoʻi i ka heleuma. ʻO ka huki ʻana i kēia kaula e hana i kahi pono hana 3-a-1, e ʻae i kahi mea hoʻopakele hoʻokahi e hāpai i kahi hoa paʻa paʻa ʻole mai ka lua.

Ka hoʻolālā ʻana o ke ala mauna a me ka palapala ʻāina e pale aku ai¶

ʻO ka pale ʻana i nā pōʻino serac e hilinaʻi nui ʻia i ka nānā ʻana i ka ʻāina, ka ʻike o ke ala mōʻaukala, a me ka pale ʻana i ka palapala ʻāina ma mua o ka piʻi ʻana i ka glacier. Hāʻawi nā kiʻi kiʻi ukali o kēia wā, nā hiʻohiʻona kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe, a me nā moʻolelo alakaʻi alpine i ka ʻike i nā kumu holo.

Ka ʻike ʻana i nā pahele ʻāina kūkulu¶

ʻO ka pahele ʻāina kekahi hiʻohiʻona topographical e hoʻonui i nā hopena o ka hoʻokuʻu ʻana i ka avalanche. Ma nā ala mauna glaciated kiʻekiʻe, aia nā pahele ʻāina maʻamau:

• ʻO nā moats Bergschrund: ʻO ka puʻupuʻu nunui e hoʻokaʻawale ana i ka hau hau e kahe ana mai ka pale hau paʻa o ka paia mauna. ʻOhi maoli ka hau hāʻule i loko o ka bergschrund, kanu i ka mea i hopu ʻia i loko ma lalo o ʻumi mau mika o nā poloka nahā.
• ʻO nā couloir i hoʻopaʻa ʻia a me nā awāwa hola: Hoʻoheheʻe nā kahawai pōhaku ʻiki i nā serac ākea ākea i loko o nā mokulele kinetic ʻoi aku ka wikiwiki e wehe i nā pali i lalo a hiki i ka pōhaku.
• ʻO nā ʻōwili ʻāpiki ma luna o nā kīhāpai: ʻO nā pali e piʻi ana ma luna o kahi pali i ʻike ʻole ʻia e hoʻokuke pololei i nā mea piʻi i loko o nā awāwa hāmama.
• ʻO nā pōʻai glacial i hoʻopaʻa ʻia: Hōʻike ʻia nā ʻauʻau i hoʻopuni ʻia e nā paia kūpaʻa i nā nalu haʻalulu nui, e hana ana i ka ʻūhū ʻōhua nui e hoʻopololei ana i nā kahua hoʻomoana e kū ana ma kahi mau kilomita mai ka wahi hoʻokuʻu kumu.

Nā laina puʻu me nā papa awāwa¶

flowchart TD
    A["E koho i ke Alanui Holo Mauna"] --> B{"ʻIkepili ʻano ʻāina"}
    B -->|"Papa awāwa / Gully Basin"| C["Hoʻomau i ka hau ma luna o ke poʻo: Hōʻike Kiʻekiʻe"]
    B -->|"Pōhaku Elevated Spur / Ridge Line"| D["Hōʻike makani akā ʻaʻole pilikia ka hau hau: ke ala i makemake ʻia"]
    C --> E{"Hiki i ke Alanui ke pale i ka holo ana o ka Alpha-Angle?"}
    E -->|"ʻAʻole: Kau ʻia e Hanging Glacier"| F["Hōʻole i ke ala: E koho i ke ala mauna ʻē aʻe"]
    E -->|"ʻAe: Loaʻa ka Lateral Buffer Lateral"| G["E hoʻomau me ka hoʻomaka Alpine Nocturnal Strict"]

ʻO nā pilikia olakino o ka wao nahele i nā pōʻino hau kiʻekiʻe¶

ʻO ka poʻe i hoʻopakele ʻia mai ka hāʻule ʻana o ka serac e loaʻa ana i ka trauma paʻakikī e hui pū i ka hopena ikaika ikaika, ʻeha ʻeha, hypothermia hohonu, a me hypoxia acute.

ʻO ka ʻeha pahū a me nā ʻeha kinetic blunt¶

ʻO ka hopena kinetic o nā poloka hau nui e hele ana me ka wikiwiki kiʻekiʻe e hoʻopuka i ka pōʻino kino kino:

• ʻO nā haʻihaʻi kiʻekiʻe a me ka umauma flail: ʻO ka hopena o nā ʻāpana hau nui ka nui o ka pōloli e haki i nā lālā, iwi ʻaoʻao, a me nā pelvis. Pono nā mea hoʻopakele e hoʻopaʻa i ka spine cervical a mālama i ka hemorrhage arterial ma mua o ka hoʻāʻo ʻana i ka haʻalele ʻenehana.
• ʻO ka ʻeha lolo: ʻOiai me nā mahiole mauna i hōʻoia ʻia, hiki i ka ikaika o ka hāʻule ʻana o ka hau ke hoʻopuʻi i ka iwi poʻo, nā hematomas epidural, a me nā ʻeha koʻikoʻi. Pono e nānā ʻia nā pāpale no nā māwae i kūkulu ʻia a paʻa paʻa.
• Pneumothorax a me hemothorax: ʻO nā iwi ʻaoʻao i haʻihaʻi ʻia a i ʻole ka hoʻoluhi ʻana o ka lewa e hiki ke paʻi i ka ʻiʻo o ka māmā, a hiki i ka pneumothorax keu. Pono nā mea hoʻopakele e nānā no ka piʻi ʻana o ka umauma unilateral, ʻaʻohe kani hanu, a me ka ʻoki ʻana o ka tracheal.

ʻO ke ʻano mea hoʻonohonoho paʻa a me ka asphyxiation wikiwiki¶

ʻAʻole like me ka hau pauka maloʻo hiki ke noho porous, e ʻae ana i ka mea i loaʻa i ka avalanche i ʻeke ea no 15 a 30 mau minuke, ʻokoʻa loa ka hana ʻana o nā ʻōpala hau. Hoʻoheheʻe ka wela kinetic i hana ʻia e nā poloka hau e hoʻoheheʻe ai i nā kristal ili, e hoʻomaha koke i ka manawa e pau ai ka neʻe ʻana o ka ʻōpala. Hoʻololi kēia i ke kahua ʻōpala i loko o ke kekona i hiki ʻole ke komo i loko o ke kekona.

ʻO ka hypothermia koʻikoʻi i loko o nā ʻāpana glacial¶

ʻO ka poʻe piʻi i paʻa i loko o ka lua e ʻike koke i ka emi ʻana o ka wela o ke kino ma muli o ka hoʻoili ʻana o ka wela i nā paia hau, nā lole pulu mai ke kahe ʻana o ka wai hoʻoheheʻe, a me ke au anuanu.

Pono nā poʻe piʻi mauna a pau, nā alakaʻi wao nahele, a me nā limahana ʻimi a hoʻopakele e hana ana ma nā kaiapuni alpine glaciated e hoʻopau i kahi papa kōkua mua i ka wao nahele i hōʻoia ʻia mai ke Keʻa ʻulaʻula, St John Ambulance, a i ʻole kahi mea hoʻolako lāʻau lapaʻau honua.

Ka papa inoa o nā lako no nā ala alpine glaciated¶

• ʻO nā lako hana palekana ola kanaka:
  • ʻEkolu-antenna digital avalanche transceiver me ka alkaline hou a i ʻole nā pākahi lithium.
  • Aluminum avalanche probe me ka liʻiliʻi loa o 280 kenimika (110 iniha).
  • ʻO ke koʻi ʻawaʻawa metala me ka lāʻau hiki ke hoʻolōʻihi ʻia a me ka hosel pahi i hoʻoikaika ʻia.
  • ʻeke ʻeke airbag i hōʻoia ʻia me ka mechanical a i ʻole supercapacitor trigger.
  • Ua helu ʻia ka mahiole piʻi no ka pōhaku alpine kiʻekiʻe a me nā hopena hau.
  • ʻO ke koʻi hau ʻenehana a me nā crampons kila modular i hoʻopili ʻia me nā pā anti-balling.
• ʻO nā mea hoʻopakele Crevasse a me nā mea hana ʻenehana:
  • ʻO ke kaula piʻi hoʻomaloʻo maloʻo i hoʻopaʻa ʻia no nā pae kaula hoʻokahi a hapa paha.
  • ʻElua 22 kenimika (8.7-ʻīniha) tubular kila a i ʻole alumini ice screws.
  • ʻO ka uea ʻoʻoleʻa V-threader makau mea paahana no ka wili ʻana i nā heleuma hau Abalakov.
  • ʻElua mau pulley hopu ka holomua micro-traxion a me nā carabiners laka māmā.
  • ʻElua 5 mika (16 kapuaʻi) ka lōʻihi o 6-milimeter nylon Prusik kaula.
  • Hoʻokahi 120 kenimika (47-ʻīniha) i humuhumu ʻia ʻo Dyneema a i ʻole maʻa nylon runner.
• Mea ola a kamaʻilio:
  • ʻElua ala ukali ʻelele beacon me ka nānā ʻana i ka SOS pilikia.
  • ʻO ke kukui puka kiʻekiʻe e hāʻawi ana i ka liʻiliʻi o 300 lumens me nā pākaukau i helu ʻia i ke anu.
  • ʻEke ʻeke ultralight bivouac ʻehā mau makahiki a i ʻole ʻelua mau kānaka pilikia ʻelua.
  • Insulated vacuum bottle filled with hot caloric electrolyte beverage.

Nīnau pinepine¶

Can you predict a serac collapse by listening for cracking sounds?¶

No, you cannot rely on audible cracking sounds because internal plastic ice deformation and micro-shear failure can occur completely silently until the final structural collapse happens in fractions of a second. The extreme velocity of falling ice means that by the time an audible crack or explosive boom reaches your ears across the mountain basin, the pulverized icefall is already traveling at speeds between 150 and 350 kilometers per hour (93 to 217 miles per hour), leaving virtually no time to clear the runout line.

Why are serac falls more dangerous than standard seasonal snow avalanches?¶

Serac falls are far more dangerous because dense glacial ice has a mass density between 850 and 910 kilograms per cubic meter (53 to 57 pounds per cubic foot), generating kinetic energy that shatters into lethal shrapnel and crushes everything in its path. In addition, the sliding ice debris generates a supersonic compressed air blast capable of leveling base camps hundreds of meters away, and the debris freezes into an impenetrable concrete-hard matrix within seconds of stopping, making hand-digging or plastic shovel excavation impossible.

Does freezing night weather make hanging seracs completely safe to cross beneath?¶

No, freezing night weather does not make hanging seracs completely safe because glacial ice is under constant gravitational stress and plastic creep deformation that operates 24 hours a day regardless of ambient air temperature. While nocturnal freezing prevents solar melting and hydro-fracturing, rapid temperature drops at night can cause thermal contraction cracking, producing sudden brittle failure along pre-stressed structural weaknesses in the ice sheet.

How far away can the air blast of a collapsing serac cause fatal injuries?¶

The compressed atmospheric air blast generated by a large serac collapse can cause fatal blunt trauma, pulmonary blast injuries, and hypothermic asphyxiation several hundred meters to more than one kilometer (0.62 miles) beyond the physical edge of the tumbling ice block debris field. The blast wave strips mountaineers off mountain ridges, launches heavy ice boulders across flat terrain, and fills the surrounding air with a dense aerosol of microscopic ice crystals that chokes bronchial airways within seconds.

What should you do with your climbing rope if caught in an ice avalanche?¶

If caught in an active ice avalanche with your rope team, surviving team members must brace in self-arrest or anchor to solid bedrock immediately to resist being dragged into crevasses or pulled over cliff edges. However, if individual team members are swept across broken moraine and the rope threatens to pull the entire group down a vertical precipice or into a crushing terrain trap, team members must be prepared to use an emergency knife to cut the tether if doing so provides the only remaining chance to prevent total team loss.

Nānā ʻia nā kumu¶

• International Commission on Snow and Ice (ICSI) and International Association of Cryospheric Sciences (IACS): Glaciological Terminology and Classification of Snow and Ice Avalanches.
• American Alpine Club (AAC): Accidents in North American Climbing, Analysis of Icefall Collapses and Crevasse Extraction Protocols.
• Swiss Federal Institute for Forest, Snow and Landscape Research (WSL) and SLF Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research: Serac Failure Mechanics and Dynamics of Ice Avalanches.
• UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) Safety Commission: Standards for Ropes, Anchors, Helmets, and Crevasse Rescue Mechanical Advantages.
• Wilderness Medical Society (WMS): Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Prevention and Treatment of Hypothermia, Frostbite, and High-Altitude Trauma.

Nā alakaʻi pili¶

• Nā ʻālele
• Paʻu uila a me ka hoʻokele hau ʻeleʻele
• ʻO ka hau hau a me ka heleuma i ka hau wai kahe
• ʻO Dzud arctic holoholona manuahi a hoʻoheheʻe
• Nā helu ulia pōpilikia a me nā laina hoʻopakele honua