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Engine overheating and steam pouring from under the hood: emergency cooling and head gasket protection

Os números de emerxencia varían segundo o país. Esta páxina usa 911, o número dos Estados Unidos e Canadá. Moitos outros países usan 112, 999 ou outro número. Busca o número do teu país.

Un motor de combustión interna dun automóbil xera temperaturas máximas da cámara de combustión que superan os 2.000 graos centígrados (3.600 graos Fahrenheit), contando cun sistema de refrixeración líquida de circuito pechado presurizado entre 103 e 138 quilopascais (15 e 20 libras por polgada cadrada) para manter as temperaturas de funcionamento normais entre 90 e 105 graos centígrados. 220 graos Fahrenheit). Cando se rompe unha mangueira de goma do radiador, un impulsor da bomba de auga se corta, un termostato pecha ou falla un ventilador de refrixeración do radiador eléctrico no tráfico intenso, a temperatura do refrixerante aumenta á zona vermella de perigo en segundos. Conducir un vehículo que se sobrequece incluso durante dous ou tres quilómetros máis (de 1,2 a 2 millas) despois de que os indicadores de temperatura se fixen en Hot (H) ou a erupción de vapor debaixo do capó fai que as culatas de aluminio se deformen, fan explotar a xunta de culata e agarre os pistóns dentro dos orificios dos cilindros.

Protexer tanto a pel humana de catastróficas escaldaduras de vapor de terceiro grao como o bloque do motor contra a falla metalúrxica terminal require unha xestión inmediata da carga térmica. Todo condutor debe saber como verter a calor do motor na cabina do pasaxeiro usando o núcleo do quentador do panel de instrumentos, distinguir o vapor de auga branco inofensivo dun lume activo do motor baixo o capó, saír da estrada para apagar o contacto no momento adecuado e esperar polo menos entre 45 e 60 minutos antes de tocar a tapa do radiador presurizado.

Fai isto agora

  1. Apaga o aire acondicionado (A/C) e acende o quentador da cabina ao máximo: No momento en que o indicador de temperatura do taboleiro de instrumentos supere os tres cuartos ou se acende a luz vermella de advertencia do termómetro, apague o botón de A/C (que bota calor extra ao radiador) e pon o dial de temperatura da cabina a en vermello máximo (HOT / HI) co ventilador á máxima velocidade. Apunte os orificios de ventilación do cadro de mandos cara ás ventás laterais e baixa as fiestras; o núcleo do quentador da cabina é un radiador secundario en miniatura que saca o refrixerante quente directamente da culata do motor e expulsa a súa calor ao aire.
  2. Distingue o vapor branco do fume escuro e saia da calzada inmediatamente: fai sinal, solta o pedal do acelerador para reducir a calor da combustión e diríxese ao ombreiro ou á rampla de saída máis ancha dispoñible. Se debaixo do capó sae un vapor denso branco e con cheiro doce, unha mangueira de refrixerante ou a costura do radiador rompeuse; apague o motor en canto pare. Se do capó sae fume espeso negro, gris ou azul acre con cheiro a aceite queimado, plástico derretido ou gasolina, ten un lume activo no vehículo debaixo do capó: pare inmediatamente, apague o contacto, evacua a todos os pasaxeiros a 30 metros (100 pés) de distancia e chame ao seu número de emerxencia local (919, 291, 919, 119, 1999, 1999). Reino Unido) ou cheque números de emerxencia.
  3. Never open a hot radiator cap or pressurized coolant expansion tank: Do not touch, twist, or loosen the radiator pressure cap or pressurized plastic surge tank cap while the engine is hot or steaming. Under 110 kilopascals (16 psi) of pressure, liquid coolant inside the block sits superheated above 125 degrees Celsius (257 degrees Fahrenheit); releasing the cap drops system pressure to atmospheric instantly, causing the entire column of superheated glycol to flash-boil into an explosive geyser of steam and boiling liquid that inflicts permanent facial and upper-body burns.
  4. Decide whether to idle briefly or shut off the engine based on steam and coolant flow: If no steam or leaking fluid is visible and the engine overheated slowly while crawling in stop-and-go traffic, shift into Park (P) or Neutral (N) with the cabin heater blasting for 60 seconds and gently rev the engine to 1,500 RPM; if the temperature needle drops immediately, your water pump and fan clutch just needed airflow. If the needle does not drop within 60 seconds, or if steam is pouring from the hood, a belt is broken, or the red oil light is on, turn the ignition key to OFF (or switch to ACCESSORY so electric cooling fans keep running) immediately to prevent head gasket warping.
  5. Pop the hood latch from inside the cabin ONLY after steam subsides: If steam is actively hissing and spraying from the grille or wheel wells, stay inside the vehicle or stand upwind until the pressurized whistling stops completely. Once the hissing ceases, pull the interior hood release lever, walk to the front of the car, and check the secondary safety catch with a gloved or cloth-wrapped hand; if the metal hood is blistering hot or smoke is present, leave the hood closed.
  6. Wait 45 to 60 minutes for complete thermal cooldown before adding water or coolant: Let the engine cool with the hood open for at least 45 to 60 minutes until the upper rubber radiator hose feels soft (unpressurized) when squeezed and the radiator metal is cool to the bare palm. Never pour ice-cold water directly into a hot engine block, which causes thermal shock that cracks cast-iron blocks and warps aluminum cylinder heads instantly.

Engine overheating and steam emergency decision tree

flowchart TD
    Heat["Temperature Gauge Climbs to Hot (H) or Red Coolant Light Flashes"] --> Cabin["Turn A/C OFF Immediately; Set Cabin Heater to MAX HOT and Fan on HIGH"]
    Cabin --> Vapor{"Is Vapor or Smoke Coming From Under the Hood?"}
    Vapor -->|"Thick Black/Gray Smoke + Burning Oil/Plastic Smell"| Fire["ACTIVE ENGINE FIRE: Pull Over, Ignition OFF, Evacuate 30 m (100 ft), Call 911/112/999"]
    Vapor -->|"White Sweet-Smelling Steam or Hissing Liquid"| Burst["RUPTURED COOLANT HOSE/RADIATOR: Pull Over Immediately and Shut Engine OFF"]
    Vapor -->|"No Steam Visible (Gauge High Only)"| Traffic{"Did It Overheat in Slow Traffic or at Highway Speed?"}
    Traffic -->|"Slow Traffic / Idling"| TestIdle["Pull Over, Shift to Neutral, Heater on MAX: Does Gauge Drop in 60 Seconds?"]
    Traffic -->|"Highway Speed (80+ km/h / 50+ mph)"| HwyFault["Water Pump, Thermostat, or Head Gasket Failure: Pull Over and Shut Engine OFF"]
    TestIdle -->|"Yes (Drops Quickly)"| FanFault["Radiator Fan or Low Coolant: Let Cool 45 Mins, Check Fluid Level"]
    TestIdle -->|"Non (Permanece en vermello)"| ShutOff["Apague o motor inmediatamente para protexer a culata e a xunta"]
    Burst --> Wait["NON toque a tapa do radiador; Agarde de 45 a 60 minutos ata que a mangueira superior estea fresca e suave"]
    HwyFault --> Wait
    ShutOff --> Wait

Thermodynamics of the cabin heater core bypass and radiator pressure cap

Understanding two fundamental laws of automotive thermodynamics explains why your first move inside the cabin can save a $4,000 engine, and why your first mistake outside the vehicle can cause a life-altering burn injury.

1. Why turning the cabin heater to MAX HOT cools the engine

Every liquid-cooled automobile contains two radiators: the primary radiator mounted behind the front bumper grille, and a smaller secondary radiator called the heater core mounted inside the dashboard HVAC box.

  • Bucle de derivación directa da culata: en case todas as arquitecturas de refrixeración de automóbiles, as mangueiras do núcleo do quentador conéctanse directamente á parte máis quente do motor (a camisa de auga da culata e a entrada da bomba de auga), obviando completamente o termostato do motor principal.
  • Emergency heat rejection when the main thermostat seizes shut: If your main wax-pellet thermostat sticks in the closed position, hot coolant is trapped inside the engine block and cannot reach the front radiator at all. However, when you turn the dashboard climate control to maximum heat (HI ou 32°C / 90°F) and set the blower fan to maximum speed, hot coolant circulates unimpeded through the dashboard heater core while the blower fan strips 4 to 6 kilowatts (13,000 to 20,000 BTU/hr) of thermal energy out of the coolant and dumps it into the cabin air. That alone is often enough to pull coolant temperatures back below the boiling point during the 60 to 120 seconds you need to cross multiple lanes of highway traffic and reach a safe shoulder.

2. Physics of the pressurized radiator cap and flash-boiling geysers

At standard sea-level atmospheric pressure (101.3 kilopascals / 14.7 psi), pure water boils at 100 degrees Celsius (212 degrees Fahrenheit). Modern automotive cooling systems raise that boiling point to 126 to 135 degrees Celsius (259 to 275 degrees Fahrenheit) through two mechanisms:

  1. 50/50 Ethylene or Propylene Glycol mixture: Mixing 50 percent antifreeze coolant with 50 percent distilled water raises the atmospheric boiling point to approximately 108 degrees Celsius (226 degrees Fahrenheit).
  2. Spring-loaded pressure cap (103 to 138 kPa / 15 to 20 psi): Every 6.9 kilopascals (1 psi) of pressure trapped inside the sealed cooling system raises the boiling point of the coolant by roughly 1.6 degrees Celsius (3 degrees Fahrenheit).

When an engine overheats to 125 degrees Celsius (257 degrees Fahrenheit), the coolant inside the cylinder head and radiator remains liquid only because the radiator cap spring is holding 110 kilopascals (16 psi) of pressure on top of it. The moment an impatient driver twists the radiator cap or unscrews the pressurized plastic expansion tank cap, internal pressure drops instantaneously to zero. Because water and glycol cannot exist as a liquid at 125 degrees Celsius at atmospheric pressure, the superheated coolant throughout the engine block flashes into steam simultaneously, expanding 1,600 times in volume and blasting a boiling, sticky geyser of ethylene glycol 2 to 3 meters (6 to 10 feet) into the air directly onto the person's face, eyes, neck, and chest.

Danger

Never trust a rag or towel wrapped around your hand to open a hot radiator cap or pressurized plastic coolant reservoir. Even on vehicles with a remote plastic surge tank instead of a metal cap on the radiator itself, if the cap has a pressure warning symbol (15 PSI, 108 kPa, 1.1 bar, ou 1.4 bar), the plastic tank is under full boiler pressure and will erupt with the exact same violence. Always squeeze the thick rubber upper radiator hose with a gloved hand first: if the hose feels hard and rigid like a pumped-up bicycle tire, the system is still dangerously pressurized.

Distinguishing steam vs smoke and diagnosing the root cause

Before deciding whether an overheated car can be topped up with water after cooling or must be winched onto a tow truck, compare the visual, olfactory, and dashboard symptoms against this mechanical triage matrix:

Symptom & visual indicator Odor and audible cues Underlying mechanical failure Risk of cylinder head / head gasket warp Safe roadside action
Dense White Vapor Pouring From Hood + Rapid Gauge Spike Sweet, syrupy pancake-like odor (vaporized ethylene glycol); loud hissing or whistling sound; green, pink, orange, or blue liquid puddling on asphalt. Burst rubber radiator hose, split plastic radiator end-tank, blown heater core hose, or loose hose clamp. Extreme if driven after steam appears (once liquid coolant sprays out, the metal temperature sensor sits in an empty air pocket and may even read falsely low while the dry aluminum head melts). Pull over and shut engine OFF immediately. Do not run engine for even 30 seconds once a hose bursts. Call a tow truck (or tape/clamp hose only if in remote survival terrain).
Overheats ONLY in Slow Traffic or Idling; Cools Down Above 60 km/h (37 mph) No steam or fluid leak initially; quiet engine bay (you do NOT hear the loud roar of the electric radiator fan kicking on when hot). Failed electric radiator cooling fan motor, blown fan relay/fuse, failed coolant temperature fan switch, or worn viscous fan clutch on rear-wheel-drive trucks. Low to Moderate if managed promptly. Natural highway ram-air flow cools the radiator above 60 km/h (37 mph), whereas stationary idling has zero airflow. Turn A/C OFF and cabin heater ON full blast. If stopped in gridlock, shut engine off until traffic moves; once moving on open road, ram air will keep engine cool to a repair shop.
Overheats at Highway Speed + Cabin Heater Blows ICE-COLD Air When Set to HOT Engine feels scorching hot, temperature gauge is pegged at H, yet the dashboard vents blow cold ambient air even with the heater set to maximum HI. Complete loss of coolant circulation: either all coolant has leaked out leaving the heater core dry, the water pump impeller has sheared, the serpentine drive belt has snapped, or an airlock is trapped in the head. Critical (Imminent Engine Destruction). When the cabin heater blows cold air while the engine is overheating, zero liquid coolant is touching the cylinder heads. Shut engine OFF within seconds of pulling onto the shoulder. Do not attempt to limp the vehicle to the next exit.
Overheats + Battery Warning Light On + Heavy Power Steering Squealing or slapping sound under the hood just before warnings appeared; steering wheel suddenly becomes heavy to turn. Broken or thrown serpentine drive belt: on most engines, a single ribbed rubber belt drives the alternator, power steering pump, and mechanical water pump simultaneously. Critical. With the water pump pulley stationary, coolant inside the engine block boils within 60 to 90 seconds. Pull over and shut engine OFF immediately. Inspect belt routing at front of engine once stopped; requires new belt before engine can run.
White Sweet-Smelling Steam Billowing From Rear Exhaust Tailpipe + Bubbling in Coolant Tank Sweet smell from exhaust pipe; engine misfires or runs rough; engine oil on dipstick looks milky brown like a chocolate milkshake. Blown Head Gasket or Cracked Cylinder Head: high-pressure combustion gases are leaking into the cooling jacket while coolant leaks into the cylinders and oil pan. Already Compromised. Continuing to drive washes oil off cylinder walls and hydro-locks pistons. Shut engine OFF immediately and arrange flatbed tow. Do not attempt to refill and drive.
Thick Gray/Black Smoke + Acrid Burning Oil or Melted Rubber Odor Pungent, choking smell of burning motor oil on hot exhaust manifolds, burning transmission fluid, or electrical insulation. Valve cover oil leak dripping onto glowing exhaust manifold, ruptured power steering/transmission cooler line, or electrical short circuit. Active Vehicle Fire Hazard. Oil and transmission fluid ignite on contact with 500°C (932°F) catalytic converters and exhaust pipes. Pull over, turn ignition OFF, DO NOT open the hood (opening the hood feeds oxygen to a smoldering engine fire), evacuate passengers 30 m (100 ft) away, and call 911 / 112 / 999.

Protecting the cylinder head and head gasket from thermal warping

Modern passenger car engines almost universally pair a cast-iron or aluminum engine block with a lightweight cast-aluminum cylinder head, sealed together by a multi-layer steel (MLS) or composite head gasket less than 1.5 millimeters (0.06 inches) thick.

  • Coefficient of thermal expansion mismatch: Aluminum expands twice as fast as cast iron when heated. Under normal operating temperatures (90 to 105 degrees Celsius / 195 to 220 degrees Fahrenheit), the cylinder head bolts hold the aluminum head flat against the block.
  • The 130°C (265°F) metallurgical threshold: Once coolant temperature exceeds 130 degrees Celsius (265 degrees Fahrenheit), or when coolant boils away into steam pockets around the exhaust valves, the aluminum cylinder head expands so violently against the clamping force of the head bolts that the center of the aluminum casting bows upward by 0.1 to 0.3 millimeters (0.004 to 0.012 inches). That microscopic bow crushes and unseals the head gasket fire-rings, allowing 7,000-kilopascal (1,000-psi) combustion flames to blow directly into the coolant passages and oil galleries.
  • The "Air Pocket Sensor Trap": Dashboard coolant temperature gauges read a brass thermistor sensor screwed into an upper coolant passage. If a lower radiator hose splits and dumps 4 liters (1 gallon) of coolant onto the highway in ten seconds, the brass temperature sensor is suddenly surrounded by air and steam instead of liquid. Because air conducts heat poorly compared to liquid, some older temperature gauges actually drop or hover near normal for a minute while the dry metal cylinder head skyrockets past 300 degrees Celsius (572 degrees Fahrenheit). Rule: If you see a cloud of steam behind your car or smell sweet antifreeze, shut the engine off immediately even if the dashboard gauge has not yet reached the red zone.

Step-by-step roadside cooldown and emergency water top-up protocol

If you are stranded in a remote area without cell service or towing coverage, and the overheating was caused by a slow coolant seep, a loose clamp, or temporary mountain grade load (rather than a catastrophic burst hose or broken belt), follow this exact sequence to cool the engine and top up fluid safely:

Cooling system layout How to identify under the hood Where to check and add fluid (ONLY after 45-60 min cooldown) Critical operational rule
Non-Pressurized Plastic Overflow Bottle + Metal Radiator Cap (Common on Japanese, Korean, and older American vehicles) The metal radiator has a spring-loaded metal pressure cap on top, with a thin rubber tube running to a translucent plastic bottle with a simple snap-on flip lid. Look through the translucent plastic bottle first. Once the engine has cooled for 45 to 60 minutes and the upper rubber radiator hose is cool and soft to squeeze, press a thick folded towel over the metal radiator cap, turn it one-quarter turn counterclockwise to the first safety stop to vent any whisper of pressure, then push down and turn fully to remove. Fill both the radiator neck to the brim and the plastic bottle to the FULL line. Pouring water only into a non-pressurized overflow bottle when the radiator itself is half-empty will not refill a hot engine immediately; vacuum only sucks fluid back from an overflow bottle as the radiator cools down.
Pressurized Degas / Expansion Surge Tank (No Cap on Radiator) (Common on European cars, Ford, GM, and modern turbo engines) There is NO cap on the metal radiator itself; instead, a thick-walled round or rectangular plastic tank on the fender well has a heavy screw-on cap marked with a pressure rating (140 kPa / 20 PSI) and a steam warning icon. Wait 45 to 60 minutes until the thick upper radiator hose is cool and squeezes flat with zero internal pressure. Wrap the screw cap in a heavy towel and crack it open one-eighth of a turn very slowly; if you hear any hiss or see bubbles rising in the plastic tank, screw it back down immediately and wait another 20 minutes. Fill only to the COLD MAX / KALT seam line (leave expansion air space at the top). Treat the plastic screw cap on a pressurized expansion tank with the exact same caution as a metal radiator cap; it is under full system pressure.

The cardinal rule of adding cold water to a warm engine

Even after waiting 45 minutes in summer heat, the internal cast-iron cylinder walls and aluminum head inside the core of the engine block can retain temperatures above 80 degrees Celsius (176 degrees Fahrenheit) while the outer radiator feels lukewarm.

Warning

How to Prevent Thermal Shock Cracking When Adding Water Nunca verter auga fría nun motor quente ou moi quente sen funcionar, e nunca use auga xeada dos regatos de montaña sen quentala antes. Cando a auga fría golpea unha culata quente e seca, a contracción localizada repentina racha a fundición metálica ao instante. Pola contra: 1. Agarde entre 45 e 60 minutos ata que o motor estea o suficientemente frío como para poñer a palma desnuda cómodamente sobre o depósito superior do radiador e a tapa da culata. 2. Se o motor aínda está lixeiramente quente e debes engadir auga a temperatura ambiente, encienda o motor e déixao ir ao ralentí mentres se bota a auga lentamente durante 60 a 90 segundos. Coa bomba de auga xirando ao ralentí, a auga fría entrante mestúrase continuamente co líquido de refrixeración quente restante e circula uniformemente en lugar de impactar un punto de metal nu. 3. Use anticongelante 50/50 premesturado, se está dispoñible, ou auga potable/auga destilada en caso de emerxencia (nunca use auga salgada, auga do océano, bebidas azucradas ou líquido para lavar parabrisas, que contén metanol inflamable que ferve a 64,7 graos Celsius / 148 graos Fahrenheit). Se en caso de emerxencia recargas con auga común, fai que un taller de reparación lave e restablece a relación de anticongelante 50/50 antes de que chegue o tempo xeado.

Técnicas de condución de emerxencia se o sobreenriquecido comeza nun túnel, ponte ou deserto

Se o teu indicador de temperatura comeza a subir cara á zona vermella mentres estás dentro dun túnel de autoestrada de varios quilómetros, nunha ponte estreita con ombreiro cero ou subindo a un empinado paso de montaña do deserto cunha temperatura de 43 graos Celsius (110 graos Fahrenheit):

  1. Apaga o A/C e o quentador de cabina + ventilador ao MAX inmediatamente.
  2. Saia da sobremarcha para manter as RPM da bomba de auga elevadas cun acelerador mínimo: ao subir unha pendiente de montaña empinada nunha marcha alta (Drive / 6ª-8ª marcha) a baixas RPM co pé presionado profundamente no acelerador, o motor xera a máxima calor de combustión mentres a bomba de auga accionada por correa e o ventilador de refrixeración mecánico xiran lentamente. Baixa unha marcha (para que o motor xire a unha velocidade lixeira e sinxela de 2.500 a 3.000 RPM con apenas un 20 por cento de presión do acelerador); A maior velocidade do impulsor da bomba de auga fai circular o refrixerante polo radiador case o dobre mentres que a reducida carga do acelerador reduce a calor do cilindro.
  3. Pull out of the slipstream of large semi-trucks: Driving within 15 to 30 meters (50 to 100 feet) behind a large commercial box truck blocks high-speed ram air from hitting your front bumper grille and feeds your radiator pre-heated turbulent exhaust air off the truck's trailer. Move to an open lane with clean, unobstructed airflow.
  4. In stop-and-go bridge or tunnel gridlock, use Neutral-Idle revving or shut the engine off: If traffic is stationary and your vehicle has a mechanical engine-driven fan (common on pickup trucks and SUVs), shifting into Neutral (N) and holding engine speed at a gentle 1,500 RPM spins the fan and water pump twice as fast as a 650-RPM idle in Drive (where the torque converter also generates transmission fluid heat routed through the radiator). If traffic is completely stopped for minutes at a time, shut the engine off completely and restart only when cars ahead begin rolling.

Tip

Always carry at least 4 liters (1 gallon) of drinking water or 50/50 premixed coolant, a pair of heavy leather work gloves, a flashlight, and a high-visibility reflective vest in your trunk emergency kit. Consider completing a basic roadside maintenance clinic through your national automobile club alongside a certified first aid and burn-care course from the Red Cross, St John Ambulance, or a local emergency training provider.

Preguntas frecuentes

Why does turning on the car heater help cool down an overheating engine?

Your car's cabin heater core is a small secondary radiator located inside the dashboard that circulates hot engine coolant directly from the cylinder head. When you turn off the air conditioning and set the cabin heater to maximum hot (`HI`) with the blower fan on full blast, the fan pulls a large amount of thermal energy out of the engine coolant and vents it into the cabin (and out your open windows), acting as an auxiliary cooling system that buys you critical time to pull safely off the highway.

How can I tell if white smoke coming from under my hood is steam or an engine fire?

White vapor that billows rapidly, dissipates into the air within a few seconds, and smells sweet and syrupy (like maple syrup or pancakes) accompanied by a pressurized hissing sound is water-and-glycol steam from a ruptured cooling hose or radiator. Thick gray, black, or bluish smoke that hangs heavy in the air and smells pungent or acrid like burning motor oil, melted plastic, rubber, or gasoline indicates an active under-hood fire; if you suspect fire, shut off the ignition, do not open the hood, evacuate 30 meters (100 feet) away, and call 911 / 112 / 999.

Why does my cabin heater blow cold air when my engine temperature gauge is in the red?

If your temperature gauge is overheating in the red zone yet turning the cabin heater to maximum hot blows cold air out of the dashboard vents, it means zero hot liquid coolant is circulating through the heater core. Either a major leak has drained the cooling system below the level of the cylinder head, the water pump or serpentine belt has failed, or a massive steam pocket is blocking circulation. This is an acute emergency; pull over and shut the engine off immediately before the dry cylinder head warps.

How long must I wait before opening the radiator cap or coolant reservoir on an overheated car?

Wait at least 45 to 60 minutes with the engine off (and the hood popped once active steaming stops) before touching the radiator cap or pressurized plastic expansion tank cap. Even 20 minutes after shutting off an overheated engine, liquid coolant inside the block remains superheated above 100 degrees Celsius (212 degrees Fahrenheit) under pressure; opening the cap releases that pressure and causes the coolant to flash-boil into an explosive geyser. Always squeeze the thick rubber upper radiator hose first to verify it is cool and soft (unpressurized) before slowly cracking the cap with a heavy towel.

Can I put plain tap water or bottled drinking water into my radiator in an emergency?

Yes. In a roadside emergency after the engine has cooled down for 45 to 60 minutes, clean bottled drinking water or tap water is completely safe to use to refill the cooling system so you can reach a repair shop. Never use saltwater, sugary drinks, or blue windshield washer fluid (which contains flammable alcohol that boils at low temperatures). Once the leak is repaired, have a mechanic flush the cooling system and refill it with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water to restore corrosion protection and freeze/boil protection.

What happens if someone gets burned by boiling radiator steam or hot antifreeze?

Chame inmediatamente ao seu número de emerxencia local por calquera queimadura na cara, ollos, pescozo, mans ou áreas grandes do corpo. Afaste a persoa do vehículo, retire suavemente a roupa empapada en líquido fervendo (a non ser que se pegue á pel) e arrefríe inmediatamente a queimadura baixo auga corrente fría (uns 15 graos Celsius / 59 graos Fahrenheit, nunca con xeo ou auga xeada) durante 20 minutos completos. Se o anticongelante se salpica nos ollos, lave os ollos abertos continuamente con auga embotellada limpa durante polo menos 15 a 20 minutos mentres espera os paramédicos.

Fontes comprobadas

  • National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA, Estados Unidos): Directrices de prevención de queimaduras térmicas baixo o capó de seguridade de vehículos na estrada, mantemento do sistema de refrixeración do motor e prevención de queimaduras térmicas.
  • American Automobile Association (AAA, United States and Canada): What to Do When Your Car Overheats: Step-by-Step Driver Emergency Protocol and Cooling System Diagnostics.
  • Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE International): SAE J164 and SAE J1034 Standards for Automotive Radiator Pressure Caps, Engine Coolants, and Pressurized Closed-Loop Cooling Systems.
  • American Burn Association (ABA, United States): Automotive Radiator Scald Burn Prevention and Immediate First Aid Bulletin.
  • Royal Automobile Club (RAC, United Kingdom) and Automobile Association (AA, United Kingdom): Overheating Engine Roadside Triage, Head Gasket Protection, and Coolant Refill Safety.

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