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Línia elèctrica caiguda a casa, sostre o tanca metàl·lica

Els números d'emergència difereixen segons el país. Aquesta pàgina utilitza 911, el número dels Estats Units i el Canadà. Molts altres països utilitzen 112, 999 o un altre número. Cerqueu el número del vostre país.

Quan les tempestes de vent intenses, l'acumulació de gel, la caiguda de les branques d'arbres o les explosions de transformadors trenquen un cable elèctric aeri i el deixen caure al sostre de la vostra casa, canalons de pluja, revestiment d'alumini o tanca de cadena del pati del darrere, la vostra propietat passa a formar part instantàniament d'un circuit d'alta tensió a terra. A diferència del cablejat interior de la llar, que funciona a 120/240 volts (o 230 volts a Europa) i activa un disjuntor en mil·lisegons després d'un curtcircuit, les línies aèries porten entre 240 volts (caiguda de servei) i 4.000 a 34.500 volts (alimentació de distribució primària). Pitjor encara, els interruptors automàtics de la subestació de serveis públics (anomenats reconectadors automàtics) estan programats específicament per reactivar automàticament una línia caiguda de dues a quatre vegades durant uns quants segons o minuts per cremar fallades temporals de branques d'arbre clares.

Com que les teules de sostre d'asfalt sec, les bigues de fusta, el sòl i el formigó tenen una alta resistència elèctrica, un cable de distribució primària de 13.800 volts que es recolza tranquil·lament al sostre o a la tanca del pati del darrere sovint no treu prou corrent de falla per fer saltar el fusible del pal de serveis. En conseqüència, el cable es manté activat en silenci a una tensió letal mentre dinamitza les canals de pluja metàl·liques, les canonades de coure, els revestiments d'alumini i més de 100 metres (330 peus) de tanca d'enllaç de barri interconnectat**, mentre irradia anells concèntrics de tensió (potencial de pas) a través del sòl circumdant. Aquesta guia completa cobreix les decisions immediates de refugi al lloc en comparació amb les decisions d'evacuació, la mecànica d'incendis de retroalimentació de cable neutre, la letalitat potencial de contacte de la tanca metàl·lica i la tècnica d'evacuació amb peus remenats.

Fes això ara

Si un cable, un transformador o un pal de caiguda de servei aèria s'allunya i cau al sostre, revestiment, calçada o tanca del jardí, executeu aquests sis passos immediatament:

  1. Traiteu tots els cables caiguts com a vius i letals, fins i tot si no fan espurnes: no suposeu mai que un cable caigut és una línia telefònica, de fibra òptica o de televisió per cable inofensiva, ni suposeu mai que un cable elèctric silenciós està mort. Els reconnectors automàtics d'utilitat poden enviar 13.800 volts de tornada a un cable silenciós sense previ avís.
  2. Queda't dins de casa, tret que l'estructura estigui activament en flames: si hi ha una línia elèctrica recolzada al teulat, porxo o calçada i no hi ha fum ni foc a l'interior, queda't a l'interior allunyat de les parets exteriors. Sortir de la porta principal per esglaons de formigó humit o herba humida et situa directament dins de la zona de gradient de voltatge del sòl i sota els canals de pluja energitzats.
  3. Truqueu immediatament al 911/112/999 I al servei d'emergència de la vostra empresa elèctrica: truqueu al vostre local números d'emergència (911 als Estats Units i Canadà, 112 a tota la Unió Europea, 999 al Regne Unit) i informa "Una línia elèctrica caiguda descansa directament a casa/la meva tanca." Immediatament després, truca a la línia d'atenció d'emergència de 24 hores de la teva empresa elèctrica perquè el seu centre de control de la xarxa pugui desactivar i posar a terra la línia d'alimentació.
  4. NO toqueu el panell elèctric principal, la fontaneria o els aparells metàl·lics si la caiguda de servei està danyada: si una línia primària d'alta tensió va caure a la caiguda de servei de la vostra casa de baixa tensió o si el cable neutre s'ha trencat, la porta de la caixa d'interruptors metàl·lics, les canonades d'aigua de coure i els aparells connectats a terra es poden alimentar a centenars o milers de volts. Manteniu-vos completament allunyat del quadre elèctric, les piques i els marcs de les portes metàl·liques.
  5. Manteniu-vos almenys entre 10 i 15 metres (de 35 a 50 peus) de qualsevol tanca, arbre o bassal que toqui una línia caiguda: si un filferro cau a través d'una tanca metàl·lica, una porta de ferro forjat, una tanca de bestiar o una branca d'arbre humida, tota la longitud contínua d'aquesta tanca s'engega el carrer, fins i tot amb tres corrents letals.
  6. Si el terrat s'encén i heu d'evacuar, remenar o saltar amb els dos peus junts: si el fum, els arcs crepitants o les flames us obliguen a evacuar la casa mentre hi ha una línia baixa a la propietat, sortiu per una porta al cost oposat de la casa des del cable, no toqueu les baranes metàl·liques ni les aixequeu ** fins que no us aixequeu ** les portes juntes ** almenys a 15 metres (50 peus).

Mai intenteu moure un cable caigut amb una escombra de fusta, tub de PVC o branca seca

Un mite fatal afirma que podeu empènyer amb seguretat una línia elèctrica caiguda del vostre sostre, cotxe o tanca amb un mànec d'escombra de fusta seca, un pal de fibra de vidre o un rasclet de plàstic. A tensions de distribució primària de 7.200 a 34.500 volts, la fusta normal, el plàstic i la pols superficial condueixen l'electricitat fàcilment, especialment si hi ha fins i tot humitat microscòpica o saba. L'alta tensió parpellejarà directament per l'exterior d'una escombra de fusta o branca d'arbre i us electrocutarà a l'instant. Només els equips de línia que porten guants de cautxú dielèctric de classe i que utilitzen "sticks calents" de fibra de vidre de 100 quilovolts poden tocar un conductor caigut.


Arbre de decisió tàctica per a una línia elèctrica caiguda en una casa o tanca

Utilitzeu aquest arbre de decisions operatives per determinar en qüestió de segons si voleu refugiar-vos dins de la vostra llar o executar una evacuació d'emergència a terra.

flowchart TD
    Start["Línia de serveis públics caiguda al sostre, revestiment, arbre o tanca del jardí"] --> Location{"1. On ets ara mateix?"}

    Location -->|"A l'exterior al pati o al carrer"| OutDist["Retireu-vos immediatament a 15 metres (50 peus) lliure de filferro, tanca i bassals"]
    Location -->|"Dins de la casa"| FireCheck{"2. Olors fum, escoltes un arc de paret o veus foc a l'interior de la casa?"}

    OutDist --> FenceWarn["Perímetre de guàrdia: aviseu els veïns que NO toquin cap tanca metàl·lica o porta connectada"]
    FenceWarn --> CallDispatch["Truqueu al 911 / 112 / 999 i al número d'emergències de la companyia elèctrica"]

    FireCheck -->|"No: la casa és tranquil·la, sense fum ni foc"| ShelterIn["QUEDEU A DINS: traslladeu-vos a l'habitació interior lluny de les parets i finestres exteriors"]
    FireCheck -->|"Sí: fumar al terrat/àtic o espurnes a les preses de paret"| EvacPrep["EVACUACIÓ D'EMERGÈNCIA REQUERIDA: Trieu la porta de sortida més allunyada del cable caigut"]

    ShelterIn --> HandsOffInside["NO toqueu el panell principal, les aixetes metàl·liques, les canonades d'aigua o els aparells endollats."]
    HandsOffInside --> CallDispatch

    EvacPrep --> DoorCheck["Obriu la porta sense tocar el marc de la porta de tempesta metàl·lica, el revestiment d'alumini o els baixants"]
    DoorCheck --> JumpShuffle["Saltar fora del llindar amb els dos peus junts; Barreja els peus a 15 m (50 peus) de distància"]
    JumpShuffle --> CallDispatch

Anatomia dels pals elèctrics: què va caure a casa teva?

Comprendre quin cable s'ha trencat del pal de serveis públics davant de casa us ajuda a informar de la gravetat exacta de l'emergència als bombers i als proveïdors de serveis públics. Els pals de serveis públics estan disposats verticalment per tensió, amb els cables de més alta tensió a la part superior i els cables de comunicació de baixa tensió a la part inferior.

Nivell del pal (de dalt a baix) Tipus de conductor/equip Tensió de funcionament típica Aparença física Perill immediat en caure a casa o tanca
1. Braç transversal superior (cables més alts) Cables de fase de distribució primària (1 a 3 cables nus d'alumini o coure en aïllants de porcellana/polímer) 4,160V to 34,500V (Most commonly 7,200V to 13,800V phase-to-ground) Bare uninsulated metal wire; mounted on tall ceramic insulators above the transformer EXTREME LETHALITY: Ignites asphalt roofs and wooden rafters instantly; energizes wet soil and metal fences for 15+ meters (50+ feet); arcs through shoes
2. Pole-Mounted Cylinder Step-Down Distribution Transformer ("Pole Pig" metal drum) Steps 7,200V to 13,800V down to 120/240V (US) or 230/400V (EU/UK) Grey painted steel cylinder bolted to pole with porcelain bushings on top If knocked down, spills mineral insulating oil (which can burn fiercely) while live high-voltage primary stinger wires remain attached
3. Secondary Triplex Service Drop (House Feed) Three twisted wires (Two black insulated 120V hot legs wrapped around one bare silver steel-reinforced neutral messenger wire) 120V / 240V AC (North America) or 230V AC (Europe/UK), 200 to 1,000+ Amps available fault current Three-wire braided rope running from pole transformer to the weatherhead mast on your roof Weatherhead insulation rubs through on roof edge, energizing metal gutters and siding; if the bare neutral wire snaps, 240V surges burn up appliances inside the house
4. Lowest Messenger Strand Communications Cables (Fiber-optic, coaxial cable TV, copper telephone) Low voltage (0V to 90V DC ringing voltage) under normal conditions Thick black flat or round jacketed cables strapped to a steel support wire 1.8m (6ft) below power lines NEVER ASSUME SAFE: During a storm, a snapped 13,800V primary wire up the street frequently falls onto the phone/cable line, energizing the black cable TV wire at 13,800 volts
UTILITY POLE HIERARCHY & HOUSE SERVICE DROP ANATOMY:
   [Utility Pole]
      (o)---(o)---(o)  <-- LEVEL 1: Primary Distribution (7,200V to 34,500V - LETHAL)
           |
        [=====]        <-- LEVEL 2: Pole Transformer (Steps down to 120/240V)
           | \
           |  \===(Triplex Service Drop: Two 120V Hots + Bare Neutral)===> [Roof Weatherhead Mast]
           |                                                                       ||
           +------(Black Coax / Fiber / Phone Cable)---------------------> [House Wall Box]

Why a downed power line on your house can set walls on fire from the inside

When a tree limb falls across the overhead triplex service drop running between the street pole and your roof's steel weatherhead mast, three dangerous electrical faults can occur simultaneously inside your home's framing:

1. Pulled-out meter base and energized rain gutters

When a heavy tree limb yanks the overhead triplex cable downward, it rips the steel conduit mast loose from your roof eaves and pulls the exterior electric meter socket box partway off your siding.

  • Energizing aluminum siding and rain gutters: As the pulled service entrance wires scrape across the sharp sheet-metal edge of the weatherhead, metal roof flashing, or aluminum rain gutter, the black rubber insulation slices open. Because this fault occurs on the utility street side (line side) of your main circuit breaker panel, your house's 200-amp main breaker cannot trip to stop it.
  • The bare 120/240-volt wire feeds hundreds of amps directly into your metal rain gutters, aluminum downspouts, and metal siding. Anyone standing on wet ground outside who touches the downspout or metal storm door completes the circuit to earth and is fatally electrocuted.

2. The "Open Service Neutral" hazard: why plumbing pipes and walls catch fire

In North American 120/240-volt split-phase systems (and many international TN-C-S / PME grounding systems), the bare silver steel cable in your overhead service drop is both the physical support rope and the neutral return conductor.

  • What happens if the bare neutral wire snaps while the two black 120V hot wires stay connected:
  • Wild voltage swings occur instantaneously across your house outlets: half of your 120-volt outlets drop to 30 volts, while the other half surge to 200 to 230 volts, causing surge protectors, microwave ovens, furnace boards, and power strips to pop and burst into flames inside rooms.
  • Unbalanced return current flows through your copper water pipes and gas lines: With the overhead neutral wire broken, all electrical current returning from your house tries to find a path back to the pole transformer through the earth via your grounding electrode wire connected to your copper water pipes. Your copper plumbing pipes, cast-iron drain stacks, and flexible steel gas connectors can overheat to glowing temperatures and electrify kitchen and bathroom faucets.
  • Neighbors' neutral current flowing through your municipal water pipe: Even if your own breakers are off, if your neighbor's neutral wire is damaged, return current from their house can travel through the shared metallic underground street water main into your basement plumbing. Never touch metal water pipes, indoor faucets, or the main electrical breaker panel when service wires are down.

3. Primary-to-secondary cross-contact (High-voltage intrusion)

If a 7,200-volt or 13,800-volt primary wire at the top of the street pole snaps and falls across the lower 120/240-volt secondary service wires feeding your house, thousands of volts surge directly down your service mast into your main breaker panel. Household circuit breakers are only rated to interrupt 240 volts; 7,200 volts jumps straight across an "OFF" breaker gap in a continuous plasma arc, blowing outlet faceplates off bedroom walls and igniting wood studs inside the wall cavities.


One of the deadliest scenarios after a windstorm, hurricane, or ice storm is a downed power line resting on a backyard chain-link fence, wrought-iron perimeter fence, or agricultural barbed-wire / woven-wire fence.

1. Why the fence does not ground out the power line

Homeowners naturally assume that because steel chain-link fence posts are set in the dirt every 2.4 to 3 meters (8 to 10 feet), a power line falling on the fence will immediately short out into the ground and trip the utility breaker. In reality:

  • Concrete post footings and dry or sandy top-soil have relatively high electrical resistance (often 50 to 500 ohms per post).
  • A 7,200-volt line resting on a chain-link top rail may only push 15 to 40 amps into the soil, far below the 100- to 400-amp threshold required to trip a utility substation feeder breaker.
  • Consequently, the entire continuous metal fence network, often spanning 5 to 10 connected backyards down an entire residential block, remains energized at thousands of volts for hours. A child, dog, or neighbor three houses away who has no idea a tree fell down the street can walk into their own backyard, grab their chain-link gate latch, and be electrocuted instantly because their wet shoes and body provide a lower-resistance path to damp earth (touch potential).

2. Step potential vs. Touch potential explained

When high voltage flows from a downed wire or an energized fence post into the earth, the electricity spreads outward through the soil in concentric circles, exactly like ripples from a stone dropped in a pond. Voltage is highest at the exact point of contact and drops off with every meter of distance.

Electrical Gradient Hazard Mecanisme físic How a Person Gets Electrocuted How to Prevent Injury
Step Potential (Foot-to-Foot Voltage Difference) Concentric rings of decreasing voltage radiate across the ground surface up to 10 to 15 meters (35 to 50 feet) away from the downed wire or fence post Walking with a normal 0.8-meter (2.5-foot) stride places your front foot on a 5,000-volt soil ring and your back foot on a 3,000-volt soil ring; the 2,000-volt difference shoots up one leg, through your pelvic/abdominal organs, and down the other leg Never walk or run with normal strides inside the 15-meter (50-foot) zone; shuffle both feet together so both soles stay at the exact same voltage
Touch Potential (Hand-to-Foot Voltage Difference) A metal fence, gutter downspout, or car body is energized at full line voltage (e.g., 7,200V) while the ground 1 meter away is at a lower voltage (e.g., 2,000V) Standing on the ground and touching a metal fence gate, downspout, or car door sends 5,200 volts directly from your hand through your heart to your feet Keep hands completely away from any metal fence, gate, railing, downspout, or vehicle anywhere near a downed utility wire
Touch-Step Combination Reaching out to steady yourself against a wall, tree, or fence while stepping across energized ground Creates simultaneous hand-to-foot and foot-to-foot current paths directly across the chest cavity Tuck arms against your chest while shuffling or hopping clear of the hazard zone
CONCENTRIC VOLTAGE RINGS (STEP POTENTIAL) AROUND A DOWNED LINE OR FENCE POST:
          [Downed 7,200V Wire on Ground / Fence Post]
                          ||
               ( ( (   7,200 V   ) ) )
            ( ( (      5,000 V      ) ) )
         ( ( (         3,000 V         ) ) )
      ( ( (            1,000 V            ) ) )
                        [Foot A]  [Foot B] <-- Normal stride bridges 3,000V to 1,000V = LETHAL
                        [FootA+B]          <-- Shuffling feet together keeps voltage difference = 0V

How to evacuate a house safely if a downed power line starts a roof or wall fire

As long as your house is free of smoke, sparks, and fire, stay inside in an interior room until utility linemen confirm the line is de-energized and grounded. However, if a downed wire on your roof or siding ignites the attic rafters or wall studs and you smell smoke or hear crackling fire inside the house, you must evacuate immediately without getting electrocuted at the doorway:

  1. Choose an exit door on the side of the house OPPOSITE the fallen wire: Look out the windows before opening any door. Never exit underneath the roof eave where the wire is hanging, and avoid driveways or patios that have puddles of water touching the foundation.
  2. Check the doorframe and avoid touching metal trim: If you have a wood or fiberglass door leading onto a dry wooden porch or concrete step on the far side of the house, open the door using only the interior handle. Do not grab an aluminum storm door frame, metal screen door mesh, or metal porch handrail.
  3. Hop clear of the doorway threshold with BOTH feet together: If you suspect the house siding, metal threshold sill, or porch railing is energized, do not step out with one foot inside the house and one foot on the ground outside (which bridges the house's voltage potential to the earth). Stand on the interior floor, tuck your arms against your chest, and hop with both feet pressed tightly together so you land on the ground outside with both feet simultaneously without touching the doorframe.
  4. Execute the two-foot shuffle to 15 meters (50 feet):
  5. Once outside on the ground, keep your feet pressed together side-by-side so your ankles touch.
  6. Slide one foot forward no more than 5 to 8 centimeters (2 to 3 inches) along the ground without lifting your sole off the earth, then slide the other foot up to meet it, keeping both feet in continuous contact with each other and the ground.
  7. Alternatively, hop like a bunny with both feet locked tightly together so only one point of ground contact exists at any instant.
  8. Continue shuffling or hopping until you are at least 15 meters (50 feet) away from the house, the downed wire, any metal fences, and any wet ground.

Solar panels, backup generators, and post-storm electrical reconnection

Before power can be restored after a utility line falls on your house, two additional electrical hazards must be managed: rooftop solar photovoltaic (PV) arrays and portable backup generators.

1. Rooftop solar panels remain live in daylight even when the grid is down

If a falling tree limb or utility line crashes onto a roof equipped with solar photovoltaic (PV) panels:

  • Even when the utility grid fails and your solar inverter automatically shuts down anti-islanding export (Rapid Shutdown), the individual solar glass modules and DC string wiring on the roof continue generating 30 to 600 volts of direct current (DC) whenever sunlight or bright daylight hits the cracked glass.
  • Water from rain or fire hoses contacting shattered solar panels creates an immediate DC arc-fault fire and energizes metal roof racking and rain gutters. Report rooftop solar panels immediately to arriving firefighters.

2. Never backfeed a portable generator into a damaged house system

After a storm rips down your overhead service drop, never plug a portable gasoline generator into a dryer outlet or flip a generator transfer switch ON until an electrician verifies your overhead service mast is completely disconnected from the downed street wires:

  • If your generator backfeeds power into a damaged meter box or snapped service drop lying in your yard, the utility pole transformer steps your generator's 240-volt output backward up to 7,200 or 13,800 volts, energizing the downed wire in your yard and electrocuting utility linemen or neighbors.
  • If your house's service neutral or grounding electrode wire was ripped loose when the mast fell, running a generator bonded through the panel can energize your home's metal appliances and plumbing. Only run portable generators outdoors at least 6 meters (20 feet) from windows using heavy-duty extension cords plugged directly into individual appliances.

3. Underground service laterals, pad-mounted transformers, and energized ground faults

Even in modern neighborhoods with no overhead utility poles, severe electrical hazards occur when floodwaters, uprooted tree roots, or digging equipment breach an underground service lateral or a green steel pad-mounted transformer box on your front lawn:

  • Never touch or sit on a green pad-mounted transformer cabinet: The green steel box in a residential yard steps 7,200- to 13,800-volt underground primary cables down to 120/240 volts. If a vehicle strikes the box, floodwater submerges it, or internal mineral oil overheats, stay at least 10 to 15 meters (35 to 50 feet) away and shuffle out of the area if the ground is wet.
  • Melting snow circles and steaming soil: If an underground service cable shorts out beneath your lawn or driveway after tree root movement, the high-resistance earth fault heats the soil, causing a circular patch of snow to melt rapidly, steam to rise from the grass, or a distinct acrid smell of burning rubber insulation. Keep people and pets completely off that lawn section and call your electric utility immediately.

First aid and rescue rules if someone is shocked outside

If you look out your window or arrive home and see a person or pet lying unconscious near a downed wire, a metal fence, or a gutter downspout:

  1. STOP and do not run over to grab them: If the person is lying on energized ground or still touching an energized chain-link fence, running up to touch them will immediately kill you via step potential or touch potential.
  2. Call 911 / 112 / 999 immediately: Tell the dispatcher a person has been electrocuted by a downed utility line and the line is still live.
  3. Only approach once utility crews confirm the grid is de-energized, or if the victim is clearly outside the high-voltage zone: Once the scene is confirmed electrically safe by emergency responders, check the victim for responsiveness and normal breathing. High-voltage alternating current causes immediate ventricular fibrillation (chaotic heart quivering) or respiratory paralysis. Begin Hands-Only CPR (100 to 120 chest compressions per minute, 5 to 6 centimeters / 2 to 2.4 inches deep) and apply an Automated External Defibrillator (AED) as soon as one is available.

Taking a hands-on first aid and CPR course from the Red Cross, St John Ambulance, or a local accredited provider prepares you to perform life-saving resuscitation and treat high-voltage entry and exit burns once emergency crews make the scene safe.


Preguntes freqüents

If a power line falls on my roof during a storm, should I run outside or stay inside the house?

Unless your house is actively smoking or on fire, you should stay inside the house in an interior room away from exterior walls, windows, plumbing, and the electrical breaker box. Staying indoors protects you from stepping onto energized wet ground outside (step potential) or brushing against electrified metal rain gutters and siding; only evacuate if the wire ignites a structure fire inside the house.

Why can't I go down to my basement and flip my main circuit breaker off when a line falls on my house?

When an overhead utility line falls on your roof or pulls your exterior electric meter mast loose, the electrical fault occurs on the utility street side of your main breaker, meaning flipping your breaker off will not stop the electricity outside. Worse still, if a high-voltage primary wire (7,200 to 13,800 volts) fell onto your service drop or snapped your neutral wire, the metal door of your breaker box can be energized at lethal voltage.

How far can electricity travel down a metal chain-link or wire fence if a power line falls on it?

A live distribution power line resting on a chain-link, wrought-iron, or barbed-wire fence can energize the entire continuous length of connected metal fencing for 100 meters (330 feet) or more, spanning multiple neighbors' backyards down an entire block. Never touch any metal fence, gate latch, or post anywhere on your block if an overhead wire is down nearby.

What is "step potential" and why do I have to shuffle my feet near a downed power line?

When a live power line touches the earth, electricity radiates outward through the soil in concentric rings of decreasing voltage, like ripples in a pond. If you walk with a normal stride, your front foot may step on a 4,000-volt soil ring while your back foot is on a 2,000-volt ring; that 2,000-volt difference ("step potential") shoots up one leg and down the other, electrocuting you. Shuffling with both feet pressed together keeps both feet at the exact same voltage so current will not flow through your legs.

Can I tell if a fallen wire in my yard is just a harmless cable TV or telephone line?

No, you must treat every single fallen overhead wire as a lethal high-voltage power line. Even if a black coaxial cable TV or telephone wire normally carries low voltage, storm winds and falling trees up the street routinely snap 13,800-volt primary power lines down onto the lower communication cables, energizing the telephone or cable TV wire at 13,800 volts.

Who pays to repair the weatherhead mast and meter box on my house after a tree pulls the power line down?

In most jurisdictions, the electric utility company owns and repairs the overhead service drop wires coming from the street pole up to the splice point at your roof, as well as the glass/digital meter itself. However, the homeowner legally owns the steel weatherhead mast, the service entrance cable running down the side of the house, and the metal meter socket box, meaning you must hire a licensed private electrician to reattach or replace a ripped-down mast and meter box before the utility company is legally allowed to reconnect your power.


Fonts revisades

  • Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA, United States): Downed Electrical Power Lines Fact Sheet, Step and Touch Potential Physics, and High-Voltage Clearance Standards.
  • Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA / Ready.gov, United States): Power Outages and Downed Utility Line Safety After Severe Storms.
  • Electrical Safety Foundation International (ESFI, United States): Downed Power Line Safety, Open Service Neutral Hazards, and Post-Storm Meter Base Inspection Guidelines.
  • Health and Safety Executive (HSE, United Kingdom) and Energy Networks Association (ENA, United Kingdom): Avoidance of Danger from Overhead Electric Lines (GS6) and Public Emergency Guidance for Fallen Conductors.
  • National Fire Protection Association (NFPA, United States): NFPA 70 National Electrical Code (NEC) Service Entrance Grounding Standards and Electrical Fire Response.

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